# secrets tips in our hobby



## charlesbrooks (Oct 18, 2009)

For the love, growth of dendroboard,our hobby, and fellow members. I want to start a thread where members chould post their personal gain knowledge for caring for frogs.
I'll start;
1.I gut-load my termites before feeding them to my frogs with Naturose mix with a few drops of centrum luquid vitamins,and water. To increase the nutritional value of the termites,and color of my frogs.
I also do this with calcium dust, by moisting the dust with a little water, until the dust have a consistently of moist soil before adding the termites
2.when making Bent's clay media, I use Seachem's reef calcium instead of lime. The reason;
It's a bioavailable ready calcium.
Seachem's reef calcium won't effect the ph of the media.
3.I use a in-tank refrugium(looks like a tree trunk of a sapling). to increase microfauna, as well as plant space(easy to make by using pvc piping, grout, and acrylic sealer.)
I'm hoping for others input,and output. For thoses who do I want to say thanks,
Charles


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## Judy S (Aug 29, 2010)

Your's is a great idea...to add to the new thread is an idea I've had because of being very new to the hobby of frogs...is that a pronunciation dictionary would be helpful as a guide to asking/discussing the very critters we all love...


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## RentaPig311 (Jul 6, 2009)

Cool thread. I'm still new to the hobby so don't have much to share. I'd love a how to thread on the refrugium you talked about.

My advice: 

diet variety makes for happy frogs. Plus if a fly culture crashes you still have other food sources.

Use the search button, DBers don't like repeats

Set up your tank before you get a frog. This let's you leave the glass top off to allow for u.v. penetration and spray a lot for plant growth. Once you have frogs you can't stimulate growth like this.

Imo even leca is heavy, next tank is false bottom for sure.


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## markpulawski (Nov 19, 2004)

LEAVE FROGS ALONE
feed'em, spray'em and then don't mess with them. The best breeders are those with frog rooms that you can barely see frogs or get to them, they are relatively undisturbed, that always seems to be the most successful outside environment you can provide.


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## Chris Miller (Apr 20, 2009)

I agree 100%. Frogs have bred for thousands of years without you fiddling with them. What makes you think your face and hands will help them in any way...



markpulawski said:


> LEAVE FROGS ALONE
> feed'em, spray'em and then don't mess with them. The best breeders are those with frog rooms that you can barely see frogs or get to them, they are relatively undisturbed, that always seems to be the most successful outside environment you can provide.


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## davidadelp (Sep 29, 2010)

I dont have alot either but I have learned ( even though I had read it) that the hydroballs FLOAT so if you use them put a layer of gravel under the hydroballs otherwise your substrate will be soaked! Make sure you seperate your substrate from the hydroballs also!


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## RMB (Nov 26, 2009)

Always assume tads are cannibalistic even if you can't find anywhere that says they are. Only put them together if a reliable source says they definitely aren't cannibalistic. 

Always have a QT/Grow out/holding container ready and seeded with springs even if it's just a tub w/ sphag.

If you use plastic tubs, check that they seal tightly all the way around. Also, 6" tall plastic shoe boxes aren't very good for keeping frogs in who can clear the wall in one bound.


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## markpulawski (Nov 19, 2004)

1 More thing, I always buy supplements in the smallest qty available. I used to say, wow I get 10 times as much for only twice as much money but now that it is proven that supplements only last 6 months before they lose most or all of their nutritional value I buy the smallest container and hope they run out at about the 6 month mark. 
I put old in my ff media when i make cultures, not sure if it helps but i figure it is better than throwing it away.


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## vugger#1 (Jul 20, 2009)

Always have more food cultures then you need!!!!!
Better to have to much then have to find someone to get them from when you run out and the frogs are hunry.
No matter what size frogs you keep make sure you seed your Viv with springtails.


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## bobzarry (Mar 2, 2005)

Keep a piece of fruit in your viv at all times. It atracks the flies, makes a feeding station, the flies will lay eggs in it and you will get maggots for your frogs as well as some flies that may develop. I find banana works best for me.


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## rcteem (Mar 24, 2009)

charlesbrooks said:


> 3.I use a in-tank refrugium(looks like a tree trunk of a sapling). to increase microfauna, as well as plant space(easy to make by using pvc piping, grout, and acrylic sealer.)
> I'm hoping for others input,and output. For thoses who do I want to say thanks,
> Charles


Got pictures of this. Very interested.


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## JJhuang (Feb 5, 2010)

1. I have had great success with using film canisters with half of the cap on. Meaning i cut the cap in half and place half on so that it adds more seclusion if they want to deposit tads or eggs. 

2. I get good ff cultures by using a 29 gal tall with egg crate at the bottom propped up by some rocks or a brick. Pretty much like a incubator. With about an inch of water and a small submersible heater. My ff cultures that are freshly started off usually go in there which has a constant temp and higher humidity for the ffs to explode. I dont think i have ever gotten mites with this method unless there was mites in on the flies that were transferred to the new culture. Usually the mites cant get to the FFs in the tank because of the water. 
Also for safety precaution make sure the FF cultures are not touching. If you culture accidentally does get mite at least it wont spread as fast. 

3. I keep my froglets in groups of 5 in a 190 oz display container that has already been culturing springs for a few weeks. Also some might think 5 is alot but i get great result because they are constantly competing for food. 

4. I have never drilled a hole in the side of any tanks for drainage. I just scifen with airline tubing. 

5. I keep my tincs in 64 quart tubs. Yeah some people might think thats sketchy. My reasoning is that they have more security behind the not so clear plastic and also they have more room in there than a 10-20 gal. 

6. I place salsa cups in all my tanks. sometimes the mancreeks will deposit eggs in them. My tincs have never laid eggs in them yet but they chill in there as if it was a little Jacuzzi. 

7. I learned this from another member or i read it somewhere on the forums But slurpie straws are an awesome tool( and they are free) to take eggs off of glass sides without damaging them, I use a large turkey baster to transport fresh tads from petri dishes to cups. 

I might have wrote too much and im not sure if these are "secrets" but i think its pretty good info for anyone beginning.


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## Darmon (Feb 25, 2009)

I put small anubias nana plants in all my film canisters and baby food jars (half filled with water). I have had luck with my thumbs laying in or right above the water or on the plant roots.


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## charlesbrooks (Oct 18, 2009)

rcteem said:


> Got pictures of this. Very interested.


I'm having trouble posting pictures to the thread at the moment. Pm me your e-mail, and I'll send you pics. Maybe you can post it for me for others can see


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## wesleybrouwer (Apr 17, 2010)

1.An easy way to remove eggs from a film canister for manual raising,
is to take 2 canisters and cut one in half,
put this into the other one, making the half canister the bottom.

This way you can easily pull out the canister the eggs are on,
and slide them onto a petri dish to raise them.


2.An easy way to provide you're frogs with food all the time and cleaning out you're viv at the same time.
Bring in springtails and woodlice to every terrarium.
They will clean the waste and serve a feeding purpose at the same time.

3. Before beginning a new fruitfly culture,
sift the fruitflies with some calciumpowder or something similair (In Holland a great brand is Gistocal, supplement for dogs, and realy cheap )
This will immobilize most of the mites attached to the flies,
they will fall off and don't invest you're fresh culture right away.

4.Sift out the larvaes from old fruitfly cultures and put them into you're fresh ones, they will make sure that the culture will bring enough production within a shorter amount of time, a surplus of larvaes will be great food as well for you're frogs.

Wesley Brouwer
Workgroup DN English Magazine.









Check out our webshop to see the first English release:
Dn Magazine 2010 English


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## Adamrl018 (Jun 18, 2010)

AWESOME THREAD!!! Im learning so much!!!


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## Regalia (Feb 12, 2010)

wesleybrouwer said:


> 4.Sift out the larvaes from old fruitfly cultures and put them into you're fresh ones, they will make sure that the culture will bring enough production within a shorter amount of time, a surplus of larvaes will be great food as well for you're frogs.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


How exactly do you go about doing this? I feel like it's not a very pleasant procedure.


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## Ronm (Oct 1, 2006)

Give tinct's who prefer film canisters to lay their (scambled) eggs a piece of PVC pipe to use instead.
Works like a charm.

Ron


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## fleshfrombone (Jun 15, 2008)

Frogs don't need or even want a water feature about 90% of the time. It's a waste of space better utilized by springtails and other microfauna..... and FROGS. If done incorrectly it will splash everywhere and saturate your substrate. Besides they're a pain in the neck to run anyway and usual look bad.


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## SmackoftheGods (Jan 28, 2009)

fleshfrombone said:


> Frogs don't need or even want a water feature about 90% of the time. It's a waste of space better utilized by springtails and other microfauna..... and FROGS. If done incorrectly it will splash everywhere and saturate your substrate. Besides they're a pain in the neck to run anyway and usual look bad.


True.... Unless you're like me and both lazy and cheap. I'm too lazy to consitently spray 15-20 vivariums every (every other...) day (week). Water features need to be carefully considered when put in a vivarium. But if done well they help keep the humidity high. Mine are actually quite convenient. Want a wet season? Plug in your water feature. Want a dry season? Unplug your water feature. For me, in this regard, it's easier to take care of cycling the seasons with water features in place... since I'm too lazy to hand mist and I'm too cheap to install a misting system.


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## thedude (Nov 28, 2007)

This is kind of what i was thinking. im going to try using drip walls in larger tanks from now on for this reason.

i was also thinking it could be an easy way of keeping a tank cold enough for silverstonei. i never asked mark how he did it, but it might be something to try.







SmackoftheGods said:


> True.... Unless you're like me and both lazy and cheap. I'm too lazy to consitently spray 15-20 vivariums every (every other...) day (week). Water features need to be carefully considered when put in a vivarium. But if done well they help keep the humidity high. Mine are actually quite convenient. Want a wet season? Plug in your water feature. Want a dry season? Unplug your water feature. For me, in this regard, it's easier to take care of cycling the seasons with water features in place... since I'm too lazy to hand mist and I'm too cheap to install a misting system.


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## SmackoftheGods (Jan 28, 2009)

thedude said:


> i was also thinking it could be an easy way of keeping a tank cold enough for silverstonei. i never asked mark how he did it, but it might be something to try.


Good thing silverstonei don't need to be kept cold.


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## inflight (Jun 12, 2007)

Judy S said:


> Your's is a great idea...to add to the new thread is an idea I've had because of being very new to the hobby of frogs...is that a pronunciation dictionary would be helpful as a guide to asking/discussing the very critters we all love...


Excellent idea! So many times I only ever read the names and then when it comes time, I usually pronounce it incorrectly.
It's happened to me with orchids several times, only a couple of times with frogs.


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## fleshfrombone (Jun 15, 2008)

inflight said:


> Excellent idea! So many times I only ever read the names and then when it comes time, I usually pronounce it incorrectly.
> It's happened to me with orchids several times, only a couple of times with frogs.


The problem with that is no one actually knows how it's pronounced. Latin is a dead language. We can take cracks at it and give you our best guess but at the end of the day how you say it could be right and the phd writing the book and correcting you could be completely wrong.


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## skylsdale (Sep 16, 2007)

I no longer use organic substrates that break down and compact (and turn into an anaerobic funk) over time.

I use a lot of leaf litter. Tons. Not a few big leaves carefully placed over some moss or the substrate...but handfulls of the stuff (if I can afford it...I live in a primarily coniferous area and deciduous leaves can be hard to come by) thrown into the tank.

I feed the soil just as much as the frogs, which helps maintain fairly substantial microfaunal levels. Leaf litter helps...as does compost, chunks of fruit, etc. randomly thrown into the tank.


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## thedude (Nov 28, 2007)

SmackoftheGods said:


> Good thing silverstonei don't need to be kept cold.


What? their habitat is like 65 degrees during the day. that’s one of the reasons they are difficult to breed….


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## thedude (Nov 28, 2007)

SmackoftheGods said:


> Good thing silverstonei don't need to be kept cold.


Well i mean they need to be kept colder than other species we have. their habitat is like 65 degrees during the day. that’s one of the reasons they are difficult to breed….


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## SmackoftheGods (Jan 28, 2009)

thedude said:


> Well i mean they need to be kept colder than other species we have. their habitat is like 65 degrees during the day. that’s one of the reasons they are difficult to breed….


It's been suggested to me by a well respected breeder who's currently working with a large number of these frogs that raising silverstonei in cold temperatures is a myth. I posted this in another thread a few weeks ago, but as I recall the quote was something along the lines of "near the equator, even at high elevations the temperature is going to be pretty warm."


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## fleshfrombone (Jun 15, 2008)

SmackoftheGods said:


> True.... Unless you're like me and both lazy and cheap. I'm too lazy to consitently spray 15-20 vivariums every (every other...) day (week). Water features need to be carefully considered when put in a vivarium. But if done well they help keep the humidity high. Mine are actually quite convenient. Want a wet season? Plug in your water feature. Want a dry season? Unplug your water feature. For me, in this regard, it's easier to take care of cycling the seasons with water features in place... since I'm too lazy to hand mist and I'm too cheap to install a misting system.


I still say the pros dont outweigh the cons. In any viv shy of a walk in real estate is at a premium and a water feature takes that away. I wish I had never installed one in my display tank. In fact I'll probably just 'pave' over it. The next time I include one it will be in a trivittatus tank, and only because they are typically found in or near riparian zones. Although I agree about the convenience factor and the forethought of placement.


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## thedude (Nov 28, 2007)

SmackoftheGods said:


> It's been suggested to me by a well respected breeder who's currently working with a large number of these frogs that raising silverstonei in cold temperatures is a myth. I posted this in another thread a few weeks ago, but as I recall the quote was something along the lines of "near the equator, even at high elevations the temperature is going to be pretty warm."


oh ok, good to know. that would have been better to post in the first place


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## rcteem (Mar 24, 2009)

Their climate is cool but can easily adapt to warm temps.



thedude said:


> oh ok, good to know. that would have been better to post in the first place


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## johnachilli (Feb 8, 2007)

bobzarry said:


> Keep a piece of fruit in your viv at all times. It atracks the flies, makes a feeding station, the flies will lay eggs in it and you will get maggots for your frogs as well as some flies that may develop. I find banana works best for me.


agreed and when it gets all moldy and such the microfauna love it too


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## pilo0024 (Aug 22, 2006)

buuuump.


Not really a secret, but making your own fruit fly media. It's so inexpensive. Use 50/50 vinegar/water instead of methylparaben. Cheaper and safer.

Black contact paper is possibly the most awesome way to cover the back/side of a viv. It cuts easily with a razor blade and makes things look super clean on the outside.


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## Philsuma (Jul 18, 2006)

yeah....the title...."Secret tips"....is fairly misleading.

There are _very few_ people that I have met (but there ARE some) that are stingy enought to not share tips and helpful info. Most everyone shares everything and wants to encourage sucess with everyone, new and old.

Lot's of tips.....not so much "secret" stuff.......


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## charlesbrooks (Oct 18, 2009)

Philsuma said:


> yeah....the title...."Secret tips"....is fairly misleading.
> 
> There are _very few_ people that I have met (but there ARE some) that are stingy enought to not share tips and helpful info. Most everyone shares everything and wants to encourage sucess with everyone, new and old.
> 
> Lot's of tips.....not so much "secret" stuff.......


I apologize about the title, but that's what I was feeling at the time. I just wanted to share info I found out on my own, and a chance for others to do the same. Plus I wanted a attention getter. lt seems like it work, since I have yours.


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## charlesbrooks (Oct 18, 2009)

Don't throw those butter bowl away. They make excellent breeding huts for dart frogs.


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## David Becher (Feb 10, 2010)

Once your in the hobby this is pretty obvious... Be very patient, everything you want to happen with or in a tank takes time, sometimes quite a bit of it. But when you see a problem, dont overlook it, fix it now before a frog escapes or you have to replace something.... Just do it lol


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## Whitneyd88 (Nov 12, 2011)

I came into this hobby in Sept of 2011 and I have to say, this board is amazing! I spent 8 years in the reef aquarium hobby and I always stayed off the boards bc god forbid if you posted an opinion or asked a "stupid" question you were subject to get eaten alive. I would see new hobbyists post honest questions that seasoned hobbyists would answer with criticism, i just didn't even want to see it. This board in this hobby is by far the most helpful and friendly board I have ever been a part of! Thank you to everyone for your generous advice! I feel I have learned an incredible amount! Here are a few little things I've learned on my own.

1. Never underestimate a frogs ability no matter how small to leap at your face right out of any open lid no matter the seemingly impossible distance. Having to catch a frightened benedicta on your living room floor is a very terrifying experience. 
2. Don't clean the divider in a tank. Your tincs may get very jealous of the flies on the other side 
3. Water features killed my entire first batch of plants. Totally over saturated my soil even with a false bottom from water droplets splashing out of the fountain. 
4. Bare soil really pisses the frogs off.
5. Petco fruit flies are always filled to the brim with mites
6. Don't put off making your FF cultures! You WILL run out!
7. If there's a hole in your tank your FFs will find it. Take advantage of those sticky fly traps. I keep one behind every tank! 
8. These frogs are smart. My cobalts know when I'm going to feed. They know what the fruit fly culture looks like. When they see me with it they come to the front of the glass, sometimes trying to come through the glass they seem so excited and look up, waiting for me to feed! I never expected them to be like that!


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## volsgirl (Mar 29, 2012)

Frogs shed their skin!!! 

If you are unaware of this (as I was in the beginning). You will swear your frog is in serious peril and about to die before your eyes.

Thankfully, Kris "Fogface" posted a shedding video (link below) before I ever witnessed it with mine, So instead of panicking, removing the frog to QT, causing undo stress, then coming to DB pleading for help, and feeling utterly embarrassed to find out it's only shedding, I was like "WOW" I'm finally seeing one shedding.

Thanks again Kris! 

http://www.dendroboard.com/forum/general-discussion/82262-skin-shedding-questions.html#post738183


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## Whitneyd88 (Nov 12, 2011)

volsgirl said:


> Frogs shed their skin!!!
> 
> If you are unaware of this (as I was in the beginning). You will swear your frog is in serious peril and about to die before your eyes.
> 
> ...


Ohhh my gosh! I witnessed both of my cobalts sitting side by side with stuff going into their mouths and they kept doing what looked like swallowing. Thankfully I didnt think they were dying and I guess I came in on it when they were finishing up (it was really early in the morning) so I meant to post a question about it on here but I had no clue how to describe it and I knew my frogs were ok, just figured it was something they do that I hadnt learned about yet! So Thank you! You answered my question! They were totally shedding!


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## MentalNote (Sep 3, 2008)

The shedding is very interesting. I have never seen mine do that. 

A tip I would add is to feed froglets springtails. When my frogs first started laying eggs 5 years or so ago I kept reading to feed the froglets fruit flies. Unfortunately, most of my baby Leucs couldn't handle such a large creature and didn't survive. It was only later that I learned to fed them springtails.


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## brinkerh420 (Oct 2, 2011)

One tip for all you hand musters like me: Don't mist fright before or after feeding your frogs; I've had multiple feelings where half of the flies got stuck to moss and dies before the frogs could eat them. 

Also, when dusting flies, make sure to only put a small amount of supplement in the container. This way, you can dump the entire cup of dusted flies in without worrying about getting the dust in the tank.


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## dartfanatic (Sep 24, 2012)

fleshfrombone said:


> Frogs don't need or even want a water feature about 90% of the time. It's a waste of space better utilized by springtails and other microfauna..... and FROGS. If done incorrectly it will splash everywhere and saturate your substrate. Besides they're a pain in the neck to run anyway and usual look bad.


It all depends on species and where they're found though wouldn't you say? I mean, walking around many rainforests in Central America I'd find several species in the same locations but some would only be found only when trecking jungle streams looking under large rocks or in small crevices. Whereas, other species wouldn't be found anywhere near the streams and found in drier areas away from the creeks. 

I agree that normally most people build atrocious water features, although from one perspective I'd say that there must be some reasoning for only finding each species near different types of habitat in the same location. For instance P. vittatus and D. auratus in the Osa Peninsula in Costa Rica. 

Just an observation.


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## charlesbrooks (Oct 18, 2009)

I said this in another thread. 
When breeding waxworns.I found out wax paper makes it easy for to start a new culture, and decrease my turn around time. I simply take the wax paper containing the waxworms, cocoons from my old culture, transfer that wax paper to my new culture. This way, you are not just adding waxworms to your new culture. You also adding cocoons, ready to emerge into adult breeding moths. While taking only about four seconds for the total transfer process.
I just wanted to share the information here too..


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## charlesbrooks (Oct 18, 2009)

Adults waxworm moths are nocturnal. Being nocturnal, they will the perfect food for small nocturnal animals, such as tree frogs.


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