# Building A Glass Vivarium



## Kaity

So you want to build your own glass viv? It's easy! Here's how...

Materials:
Glass (1/4" thick for viv, 1/8" thick for glass doors)
Clear Silicone (I use GE Silicone 1 for Kitchen/bath)
Black Silicone
Silicone Gun
Blue Painters Tape
Duct Tape
Disposable Rubber Gloves
Razor Blades
Screen Window Frames 
Screen Window Corner Connectors
No-Se-Um screen material (bought at Home Depot)
1/8" door tracking (from Outwater Plastics - Outwater Catalogs - 2010 Master - page 54)

Optional but Useful Tools:
Random Orbital Sander
Power Drill
Foot Control Petal ($10 at Harbor Freight)
Mini Cut-off saw ($30 at Harbor Freight)
Respirator
Safety Glasses


I have been making two sizes of tanks, one for tincs, and one for thumbs. Below are the pieces of glass you will need for each size of tank.

Tinc Tank (15" wide x 20" deep x 16" tall) (fits 3 to a 48" rack)
*1/4" Glass*
Bottom: 15x20
Side (x2): 19.5x15.5
Front: 15x5
Front Lip: 1x14.5
Top 1: 15x2
Top 2: 15.14.2
Back: 15x15.5
*1/8" Glass*
Doors (x2): 7.5x10 1/8

Thumb Tank (15" wide x 20" deep x 24" tall) (fits 3 to a 48" rack)
*1/4" Glass*
Bottom: 15x20
Side (x2): 23.5x19.5
Front: 15x6
Front Lip: 1x14.5
Top 1: 15x2
Top 2: 15x14.5
Back: 15x23.5
*1/8" Glass*
Doors (x2): 7.5x17 1/8

I get my glass from a local glass shop. They cut the pieces and can sand the edges for you if you want. It costs about $20 extra per tank for them to do that though so I sand the sharp edges off myself. I use a Random Orbital Sander with 80 grit abrasives. You really should sand the glass wet but I'm to cheap to get a wet sander so I just wear a respirator to avoid breathing all the glass dust I kick up. I plug the sander into a foot petal controller which you can get pretty cheap. This lets you control how fast the sander moves thus avoiding overheating/chipping the glass. Dont forget your safety glasses too!


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## Kaity

Once you've sanded all the edges so they are not sharp anymore you can drill any holes that you need. I am not going to go into detail here as there is a really good tutorial on DB already. I drill one hole in the back piece about 1" from the bottom for the bulkhead and one hole in the middle and about 1" from the edge of Top 2 for the misting system. Below is a pic of the bulkhead I use. It is a mini bulkhead that only requires a 1/2" hole.

http://www.dendroboard.com/forum/parts-construction/44979-how-drill-glass-diy.html

As a side note, I also like to plug in my drill to the foot petal controller and duct tape the trigger down while drill holes. This is mostly because it hurts my hands too much to hold the trigger down for a long time but also allows you to focus more on not breaking your glass!

Here is where I get the bulkheads - item #PHBBF-1/2
Bulkhead Fittings


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## Kaity

Now comes the fun part! 

Clean all the edges and about 2" in around each side with rubbing alcohol and a paper towel. Silicone will not stick to grease so everything needs to be clean!

I silicone the Bottom, Back, and Left Side panel all in one step. Then add the Right Side, then the two Tops. I use blue painters tape to create an edge where the silicone will not go past. This helps to create clean professional lines at the joints. I tape 1/2" away from the edges that the silicone joint is on the flat surface of the glass and 1/4" away from the edges on the pieces that butt up against another piece of glass. Hope this makes sense.

The first pic shows the Left Side, Bottom, and Back taped up. The second is showing you how I tape away from the edge.

Here is a video on youtube showing the taping procedure a little better.


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## Kaity

Next you will add duct tape stripes that will act as supports for the tank until the silicone dries. I do not use anything to hold up the side or brace them other than the tape an it works great. In the pic you can see I put tape on the bottom piece as well as the back.

Next run a stream of clear silicone on all the places that will have glass butted up against them. For this first phase you will put silicone on the left side and rear edge of the bottom piece as well as the left side of the back piece. See below for amount of silicone to use.

Then you just stand up the back piece and tape it in place, then the left side. Once the pieces are aligned and taped they should not need any more support. 

Run another bead of silicone along the inside joints. Go ahead and goob a good amount in the corners. Then with a gloved hand, run your finger along the seams to smooth out the silicone. IMMEDIATELY after you do that remove the blue painters tape. You do not want the silicone to set while the tape is still on.

The last picture is what it should look like at this point.

Do not try to clean up silicone that squirts on the outside. Let it cure and then use a razor blade to cut it off.


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## Kaity

Hopefully by now you have the hang of taping and siliconing. You will add the Right Side next. Then the two top pieces. Below is a pic of the top. Align Top 1 with the front edge of the tank and Top 2 along the back. This will leave a gap in the middle for the Screen/Vent to go in.

Separately I will also silicone the Front piece with the Front Lip. The lip is what will hold on your sliding door tracking. I attach the Lip to the Front and allow it to dry for 24 hours. Make sure to leave a 1/4" margin from each side of the Front so that the Lip can slide into the Viv. I like to tape the 1/4" on each side just to be sure. I then attach it in place using the same methods as the rest of the tank.


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## alex111683

In the end what is the cost of materials to build one of these tanks?


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## Kaity

Now for the sliding glass doors. When you order your tracking you will get two different heights. For instance, if you order 10' of track, you will receive 10' of the shorter one and 10' of the taller one to make a set. You will use about 3x as much of the taller one as the shorter one so keep that in mind when you are ordering. The short one goes along the bottom of the doors. The tall one goes on the two sides and the top.

To cut the track I use a Mini Cut-off Saw from Harbor Freight (about $30). This allows you to make 45 degree cuts as well as straight ones. 

The bottom piece is just straight across...no angles needed!

The side pieces will fit flush against the bottom but have to have 45 degree cuts at the top.

Remember, measure twice cut once!

Once the pieces are cut and you know they will fit right I like to tape them in place just to double check.

Then I use a bead of black silicone and attach the bottom and top piece first. Then add the two side pieces. 

Don't worry if silicone squirts out the front. It's easier to cut it off with a razor blade after it has dried.


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## Kaity

I'm not going to show how to make a vent because Pumilo so graciously did one already! Here is the link.

http://www.dendroboard.com/forum/parts-construction/63781-screen-vent-construction-how.html

Once you have that made just use the black silicone along the edges and push it in place.

Once everything is dry and ready to can put the doors in. Just tilt them and insert the top in the top track. Then straighten the door out and rest it in the bottom track.

Done!

Hope that wasn't too confusing. I'm not a very good descriptive writer obviously.


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## Kaity

Alex: As far as costs go I think making one yourself makes a lot of sense if you are making multiple tanks, want something custom, and it also helps if you have the tools already lying around. 

Shop around for the cheapest glass shop. I found they vary quite a bit. The cheapest place I found in Portland is Wright Bros. Glass. The glass for the Tinc Tank costs about $65 and the glass for the Thumb tank costs about $75. I also priced out a 15gal equivalent vertical tank and glass would be about $55. If you bought large glass panes and cut them yourself you could probably cut this cost WAY down but I haven't totally committed to learning to cut glass yet. But I hear Pumilo is working on a tutorial.

The tracking is cheap. Something like $0.53 per foot.

You will use about 1/2 a bottle of clear silicone and only a tiny bit of black silicone per tank. The silicone is $5 a tube.

Gloves - $2
Tape - $4
Razor Blades - $2

Screen material costs are detailed on the Screen making tutorial. But after you buy the No-se-um fabric and the frames each one you make feels like it's free. The insect fabric I got will probably last me a life time.


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## Pumilo

Nicely done Kaity! I like how you took the time to tape your edges for a crisp clean edge. I must admit mine are just freehand. I'm making breeders rather than displays so my lines are not as neat as yours. Hope you don't mind if I link to your thread when I get to that point on my viv build thread. Did Outwater have any kind of minimum order for that track? I've thought about doing a really tall pumilio viv with tracked doors.


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## Kaity

Thanks Doug! Outwater does not have a minimum order to my knowledge. My order only cost like $40 and I have made 9 tanks and have enough for another two maybe....


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## ritersofly

Great tutorial quite detailed! Except, how are the side,back, and front glass pieces positioned to the bottom piece when siliconing? For example, are the side, back, etc. glass pieces cut to all fit sitting on TOP of the bottom piece? or do some get positioned on top and others on the side of the bottom piece? I hope Im making myself clear.

The way you explain it, it doesnt really seem that hard to make! Genius!


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## Kaity

Good Question. All the side and front pieces sit on top of the bottom piece. Basically the bottom and top pieces sandwich in the walls.


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## ritersofly

Kaity said:


> Good Question. All the side and front pieces sit on top of the bottom piece. Basically the bottom and top pieces sandwich in the walls.


and the front and back pieces sandwich the sides or...? sorry Im being so meticulous...


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## Kaity

No problem...ya, the front and back sandwich the sides as well.


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## JeremyHuff

Great info Kaity. Thanks. Where do you buy the bulkheads?


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## Kaity

Jeremy: the link is on my second post of this thread.


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## Tony

Nice work, love those tank designs.


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## dom

It funny because I swear I have seen that exact design from someone else that builds vivariums. They look like class A vivariums to me tho


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## ccfrogbreeder

Looks just like a lot of tanks I've seen recently, Kinda like the euro glass, but more like a Protean Terr. viv.





Looks ok tho.


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## stemcellular

Very nicely done, Kaity. I may just try this approach over the summer in redoing some tanks. Very DIY.


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## Azurel

dom said:


> It funny because I swear I have seen that exact design from someone else that builds vivariums. They look like class A vivariums to me tho





ccfrogbreeder said:


> Looks just like a lot of tanks I've seen recently, Kinda like the euro glass, but more like a Protean Terr. viv.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks ok tho.


That is exactly what I was thinking....Looks just like a Protean viv....

A nice design for sure right there.....


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## TDK

Nice job! I know I'll build my own from now on.


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## TDK

Show us some new shots as the tanks grow in.


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## Eric Walker

outwater has a min. order of $25 without the shipping. The track comes in 12 foot sections. I had to order 3 12 foot sections for 1/8th in glass to total $24.80 plus my shipping came to right about $40.


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## boabab95

I agree with some of the others... this looks Identical to proteans? did you get the design from them? if not where?


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## Kaity

I would just like to point out that a "protean" design is not really an original design. Type in European Glass Vivarium in google and you will find many tanks that are basically identical. It is a common style. That being said, without giving feedback to anyone, I enjoy making my own vs. buying them from some vendors because of past experiences. If you would like more details please feel free to PM me. 

Terrarium, gifkikkers, fruitvliegen, sproeiers - Dutch-Rana Online - PRIJSLIJST TERRARIA

http://www.dendroboard.com/forum/pa...tructing-euopean-type-vivarium-step-step.html


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## Pumilo

Nobody is giving Protean a hard time for a borrowed design! These were being used overseas well before he borrowed the design from them. Seriously people! Give her a break.


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## poison beauties

Kaity said:


> I enjoy making my own vs. buying them from some vendors because of past experiences. If you would like more details please feel free to PM me.



You may like making your own vivs but its pretty obvious you copied Jason's vivs as you physically bought two of them and picked them up not too long ago. Needed a hands on template huh?
Be original!
Michael


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## ccfrogbreeder

WOW, actually picked them up from protean.....


I guess pictures from websites were not enough....


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## kyle1745

Ok guys i'm going to ask that everyone take it easy. If anyone has a issue please contact me directly.


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## Kaity

Yep, you're right. I did buy some recently. As I said before, that experience made me want to make my own. I did not buy them to copy the design in the first place. As I can not give vendor feedback on this forum I can not go into details as to why I decided to make my own but please feel free to PM me and I will tell you. 

Also, I never claimed the design to be my own.


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## stemcellular

Funny that people aren't complaining about folks copying Dane's vert fronts by making their own... C'mon, this hobby is about learning from others, refining designs, etc. If people want to make their own tanks all the power to them. And if they want to utilize designs from others, well, that's their prerogative.


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## tachikoma

stemcellular said:


> Funny that people aren't complaining about folks copying Dane's vert fronts by making their own... C'mon, this hobby is about learning from others, refining designs, etc. If people want to make their own tanks all the power to them. And if they want to utilize designs from others, well, that's their prerogative.


Also there are only so many ways to make a cube. There is bound to be overlap, if we judge by the same standards then anyone who has ever made a basic aquarium DIY has "copied" someone else's design. As Charles Caleb Colton once said "Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery." So I would take it as a compliment.


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## poison beauties

stemcellular said:


> Funny that people aren't complaining about folks copying Dane's vert fronts by making their own... C'mon, this hobby is about learning from others, refining designs, etc. If people want to make their own tanks all the power to them. And if they want to utilize designs from others, well, that's their prerogative.



Vert fronts have been around since the 90's. I made them as did many herpers keeping ETB's and GTP's. Doors that opened down and even to the side.

Michael


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## stemcellular

poison beauties said:


> Vert fronts have been around since the 90's. I made them as did many herpers keeping ETB's and GTP's. Doors that opened down and even to the side.
> 
> Michael


My point exactly.


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## frogface

Kaity, thanks for the tutorial! I might even give it a try. 

For your next project, would you please use 80 degree angles when building your viv, to avoid any patent issues?


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## Boondoggle

I know it's been said, but,

Jason makes a great tank (I own 7), but did not invent the glass box. Nor did he invent the European vent, nor the sliding door, nor the drain/misting hole, nor is he the first one to put them all together. He also builds custom tanks to any dimension/configuration so any tank that anyone builds probably looks like a protean tank somewhere.

People have been building glass pet boxes for hundreds of years and very few variations are unique enough to warrant any kind of "me first" claim, legal or otherwise.

Nice job, BTW.


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## TDK

I built my first tank with sliding glass front a couple of years after the May 1995 National Geographic article on Poison-Dart Frogs. There was a tank photo of Robbert Kurpershoek's from the Netherlands on page 110. I had the local glass company cut the glass and sell me the tracks for the doors. It even has a glass shelf that the track is siliconed to and a screen top. My design is from what I saw in National Geographic at least 14 years ago. Here is a photo I believe that I have posted before. You can see the track/shelf in the bottom left.


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## Brotherly Monkey

kaity, do you think you could get a clean cut on the tracking with a regular miter saw, either electric or hand?


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## Kaity

The problem with bigger saws are they tend to warp the track a bit from the heat. I used a big chop saw on my first tank but it definitely doesn't look as clean. If I were u I would make a 45 degree cutting jig out of wood. Then you could just use a hand saw. I'll try and find a pic tonight of what I'm talking about. I was actually thinking about making one myself because it seems easier.



Brotherly Monkey said:


> kaity, do you think you could get a clean cut on the tracking with a regular miter saw, either electric or hand?


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## dmartin72

Those Euro's really know their stuff.



Tony said:


> Nice work, love those tank designs.


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## Devanny

Amazing Kaity, I too will give this a shot it beats waiting months and marathon of excuses/bs talk. Not sure why anyone has a problem with your tanks looking like proteans, are his TM?


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## dmartin72

Those vivarium designs are not exclusive to Protean!


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## laylow

I have really been wanting to build my own tanks for quite some time. This tread is exactly what I have been looking for! Thank you so much. 

Can you please post some pics of the seems where the back sides and top all meet? Also the tank fully put together?

Thanks a million!

Shaw


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## highfyre

I biult my last viv out of old picture frame glass that I had lying around. It was biulding it that was half the fun. I am in the process of planning my third display tank and I wouldnet even consider buying one!!! Saying you are copying some one elses IDEA here is like saying you stole the idea for a chair if you biuld one! PUULLLEEEEZZE people! Good work Kaity!


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## Pumilo

highfyre said:


> I biult my last viv out of old picture frame glass that I had lying around. It was biulding it that was half the fun. I am in the process of planning my third display tank and I wouldnet even consider buying one!!! Saying you are copying some one elses IDEA here is like saying you stole the idea for a chair if you biuld one! PUULLLEEEEZZE people! Good work Kaity!


LOVE to see/hear about recycled glass for vivs. I have 10 vivs made from recycled glass!


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## highfyre

Pumilo said:


> LOVE to see/hear about recycled glass for vivs. I have 10 vivs made from recycled glass!


What type of glass have you used and where did you get it from?


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## frogfreak

A window repair shop is a great place to find used glass. You'll have to take it out of the frames though. Someone offered me this and I built a ton of lids with it.










Your tanks look great Kaity.


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## dmartin72

Is that a permanent wedding cake without the cake...wow?


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## highfyre

frogfreak said:


> A window repair shop is a great place to find used glass. You'll have to take it out of the frames though. Someone offered me this and I built a ton of lids with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Your tanks look great Kaity.


holy cow!!! thats like $300 worth of glass at least! Good score.


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## frogfreak

I thought it was awesome. Saved it from the landfill and scored some lids. The cake was 15 years old a was falling apart. The grandkids played with it till it was completely destroyed.


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## Pumilo

frogfreak said:


> A window repair shop is a great place to find used glass. You'll have to take it out of the frames though.


Oh man!! I wish I had thought of that!



highfyre said:


> What type of glass have you used and where did you get it from?


I own a window repair business for 20 plus years. I ask my Insulated Glass Unit manufacturer to save appropriately sized mistake units for me. Sometimes I end up using LowE and tinted glass on the bottoms and backs.


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## Kaity

Laylow: Here you go. Sorry the pics are so crappy. My room is small and all I have is a Macro lens so I couldnt get the whole rack in the shot. I also just misted so the glass is a little fogged up.

The last pic is from the side of the viv looking at where the top, side, and back meet. Hope this helps. Sorry this is a messy corner because I didnt feel like cleaning it up as it is hidden on the rack! HA!


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## laylow

Thank you for the DIY. This has been one that was perfect timing for me. I can't wait to make my tanks. I'll keep you posted on the tweaks ill do and how the final product end up. Two thumbs way up!

Shaw 



Kaity said:


> Laylow: Here you go. Sorry the pics are so crappy. My room is small and all I have is a Macro lens so I couldnt get the whole rack in the shot. I also just misted so the glass is a little fogged up.
> 
> The last pic is from the side of the viv looking at where the top, side, and back meet. Hope this helps. Sorry this is a messy corner because I didnt feel like cleaning it up as it is hidden on the rack! HA!


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## pl259

frogfreak said:


> I thought it was awesome. Saved it from the landfill and scored some lids. The cake was 15 years old a was falling apart. The grandkids played with it till it was completely destroyed.


(Shhhhhhh...don't tell everyone about the landfill. I get most of my glass there for free. Old storm windows are one of my favorite sources. Be careful of the big ones though. They can be made from tempered glass.) 

A thought... don't recall if anyone mentioned this and I know it sounds overly conservative. WEAR EYE PROTECTION when working with glass. I've been glad I was several times now.


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## Rob Nixon

All this business about copying designs is a bunch of malarkey...
I suggest everyone track down a copy of Ernie Wagner's paper entitled "Breeding Arrow Poison Frogs and Looking for Ways to Reduce the Labor" published in 1987(!) as part of the N. CA Herp. Society's Special Publication #4. In it, there is a line drawing figure of a "European style" enclosure complete with ventilation strip across the front. Although not exactly the same as the designs being discussed here, it doesn't take too much imagination to see the similarities. 24 years ago, when most US frog keepers were still in their conceptual Pampers (not to mention those that were physically IN Pampers), this guy took a trip to Holland, noticed some innovations that could benefit frog keeping in the US and had a paper published about it.

Wow imagine that...someone sharing an idea to help promote better husbandry of the organisims we are all interested in! Of course that was back in 1987, long before the days of the internet and online forums. The dark ages, so to speak. Now someone doing the same thing (i.e., sharing an idea that others can actually LEARN and benefit from) comes under criticism for copying an old design that has been in use for a long time. It's nothing new folks, only a testament to how behind the times the US is in terms of enclosure design. However, it is interesting to see those riding the proverbial bandwagon get so emotionally charged when they find out their favorite team isn't the only one that can play the game... 

Well that's enough flimsy pablum for me...time to run out and get the "Euro Style Vivarium" trade marked and patented. Then I can claim I invented it!

Oh yeah...to the original poster: Keep up the good work and thanks for the informative helpful post!

PS- my dearly departed granny had a favorite saying, maybe you've even heard it before: "Mimicry is the highest form of flattery". Intentional or not...


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## stevenhman

Awesome job! 

I might be doing this exact same thing soon. I really like how you gave us your glass measurements. 

Keep up the good work!


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## dtfleming

Question about the doors. Do they slide open or pull open. Im trying to picture how the slide open.


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## Brotherly Monkey

dtfleming said:


> Question about the doors. Do they slide open or pull open. Im trying to picture how the slide open.


they're on plastic tracks

http://www.dendroboard.com/forum/parts-construction/63870-building-glass-vivarium.html#post557321


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## dtfleming

I see that, I figured it out. They slide between the opening


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## Brotherly Monkey

dtfleming said:


> I see that, I figured it out. They slide between the opening


It's just like a set of sliding glass doors, where both partially overlap to fully enclose the opening


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## Delmarr

I'm looking to build a similar tank but with the dimensions of 36x18x36

Based on your experience do you see an issues with stepping up to this size?

ie weight of glass might need a design change etc?

Delmarr


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## Pumilo

Delmarr said:


> I'm looking to build a similar tank but with the dimensions of 36x18x36
> 
> Based on your experience do you see an issues with stepping up to this size?
> 
> ie weight of glass might need a design change etc?
> 
> Delmarr


36" x 18" x 36" divided by 231 = 101 gallon viv. You will need to increase your glass thickness quite a bit. I think you would need to go with at least 1/4". Even then, that is thinner than a like sized fish tank (because it doesn't need to hold a full tank of water) so be careful when moving it.


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## Kaity

Hello Delmarr,

I made a 47x17x16 tank and the only thing is that the top is a little unsteady, it bows slightly in the middle. I am thinking about taking the tank apart and puting in some sort of support in the middle, either that or completely block it off into two vivs so the glass in the middle will support the top. It has been up and running for some time without issues but I fear that if too much weight was put on the top it might crack. Haven't totally figured out how I am going to make a support that will not be obtrusive. Maybe someone else has made a 36" wide one and can chime in.


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## Delmarr

I had also thought of placing 2 40 breeders side by side and removing the shared side panels Then finding a way to fuze them together which would leave me with just figuring out a front which should not be difficult


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## TDK

Kaity said:


> Hello Delmarr,
> 
> I made a 47x17x16 tank and the only thing is that the top is a little unsteady, it bows slightly in the middle. I am thinking about taking the tank apart and puting in some sort of support in the middle, either that or completely block it off into two vivs so the glass in the middle will support the top. It has been up and running for some time without issues but I fear that if too much weight was put on the top it might crack. Haven't totally figured out how I am going to make a support that will not be obtrusive. Maybe someone else has made a 36" wide one and can chime in.


Years ago I had a custom tank built by GlassCages.com that was 48" long x 36" high x18" deep (I wish I would have made it 24" deep). They came to local shows around the east coast (I'm in North Carolina) and may go further. They sell tank frames that can be used for building your own custom terrariums that would provide support for the larger tank bottoms and tops and the one they used for my 48" long was divided in the middle for support so you could put 2 smaller sections of glass in the top. They build custom tanks for aquariums and terrariums. Good people to work with.


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## ritersofly

Eric Walker said:


> outwater has a min. order of $25 without the shipping. The track comes in 12 foot sections. I had to order 3 12 foot sections for 1/8th in glass to total $24.80 plus my shipping came to right about $40.


When I order 3 12 foot sections the total is $1.65 without shipping, so why is it that much cheaper for me? I don't want to try to buy enough of it to equal $25. thats like hundreds of feet of this stuff!!! wth?

heres the link to the page, maybe I'm doing something wrong...
http://www2.archpro.com/cgi-bin/worderc?confc=B2C&s=180-*&catalog=100156&target=top

help me out?


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## Pumilo

I'm guessing you are looking at a "per foot" pricing. Try entering 36 instead of three.


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## Kaity

Hector: When I ordered I called and placed the order. The customer service there is great. I would just call and they can help you.


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## VicSkimmr

TDK said:


> Good people to work with.


That's certainly debatable. I'd recommend looking for glass cages reviews in the reefkeeping community before giving them any business.


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## TDK

VicSkimmr said:


> That's certainly debatable. I'd recommend looking for glass cages reviews in the reefkeeping community before giving them any business.


They worked well with me at the time, but it's understandable that there may be others with different opinions especially since it's been sometime since I ordered. Others companies may sell these frames and that's mostly why I posted to try to help someone with a ceratin question/problem. Thanks, TDK


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## ritersofly

Kaity said:


> Hector: When I ordered I called and placed the order. The customer service there is great. I would just call and they can help you.


Thanks, I called today, gonna get 36 feet of this stuff! I'd be willing to part with some of it for those near my area! Let me know!


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## ForRealB

Kaity, 

Nice tutorial. Especially love the video in the beginning, I made it! 

Funny that I found this going from reef to vivarium, specifically looking at rebuilding a 240g, and am researching diy sliding doors. 

Ref: Glasscages
I bought my 240g Starphire 1/2" 96x24 front plate from them, I've also had about 5 other tanks from them. Always been solid clean build, great price. Great prices for plate glass too, 1/2 the cost for me locally including shipping. 

--- thread resurrection  ---


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## crb_22601

Great write up. Just wondering though why do you cut the door track at an angle? Couldn't you just line the sides up with top and bottom?


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## ritersofly

crb_22601 said:


> Great write up. Just wondering though why do you cut the door track at an angle? Couldn't you just line the sides up with top and bottom?


I think she does it because when its done right it makes it look nice and clean, you can do it the way you mentioned tho, I've done it like that before..


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## josh_r

crb_22601 said:


> Great write up. Just wondering though why do you cut the door track at an angle? Couldn't you just line the sides up with top and bottom?


Chris, mitered edges like that will give it a clean look and a better fit. Instead of butting a clean, straight 90 deg. cut against the flat edge of another piece, cut both pieces at 45 deg. angles and you are butting two straight and true cuts making for an accurate and clean meeting of the two pieces.


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## Noort

n00b question:

after mitering (is that even a word? Non-native-english-speaking european female here  ) you stick it to the glas -> is there a way to prevent the black adhesive entering the cut places and forming a blob on the inside?

I've tried this methode before and there are blobs on the inside of the tracks. Not enough to impair function, but I like things neat.


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## dtfleming

Noort said:


> n00b question:
> 
> after mitering (is that even a word? Non-native-english-speaking european female here  ) you stick it to the glas -> is there a way to prevent the black adhesive entering the cut places and forming a blob on the inside?
> 
> I've tried this methode before and there are blobs on the inside of the tracks. Not enough to impair function, but I like things neat.


Use a razor after it has cured to cut of the excess silicone. Or use less next time


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## Pumilo

crb_22601 said:


> Great write up. Just wondering though why do you cut the door track at an angle? Couldn't you just line the sides up with top and bottom?





ritersofly said:


> I think she does it because when its done right it makes it look nice and clean, you can do it the way you mentioned tho, I've done it like that before..





josh_r said:


> Chris, mitered edges like that will give it a clean look and a better fit. Instead of butting a clean, straight 90 deg. cut against the flat edge of another piece, cut both pieces at 45 deg. angles and you are butting two straight and true cuts making for an accurate and clean meeting of the two pieces.


The top is miter cut to look better. You can't miter the bottom. The bottom track is not as deep as the top and sides are. They would not match up right if you miter them. Therefore the bottom has to be just butted up with a straight cut.


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## dart8888

Kaity said:


> Now comes the fun part!
> YouTube - Glass Aquarium Silicone Reseal


I just bought a zilla critter cage 30G.
And I saw many posts that I have to seal it one more time.

However, in there web site, they say it is "Designed for water bottles"
Is that mean, I'm fine to use this tank without reseal??
Zilla - Where Reptiles Rule » Critter Cage | Products

If I need reseal,
Do I have to take off original seal like youtube video before reseal?
Or Is it ok just seal on the existing seal?

By the way, Do I have to use black silicone?

Can I use clear silicone?
Thank you.


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## CharlieN

So how many Thumbs fit in the Thumb tank ?
I assume its 2 in the Tinc tank. 
Stumbled across this on a recommendation today and definitely want to give it a shot. Looking for my next build and this is super interesting.


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## fishingguy12345

CharlieN said:


> So how many Thumbs fit in the Thumb tank ?
> I assume its 2 in the Tinc tank.
> Stumbled across this on a recommendation today and definitely want to give it a shot. Looking for my next build and this is super interesting.


The user hasn't been on the forum since 2015 so I doubt they're going to give you an answer.

Note: they have built the "tinc" tank SMALLER in total size than the one for thumbnails so I wouldn't take stocking advice from them, personally.


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## CharlieN

Thank you


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## Plastic

Such a helpful tutorial. Thanks for the detail!


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