# Working with Drylock



## Jonas35 (May 31, 2009)

I've been following some of the recent builds with drylock and have begun a new project of my own. I haven't been able to find information as to how many layers people are using to create their fake rocks im my search efforts. 

I have used two layers over top of my carved foam fake rocks and there are places where the blue foam shows through and it doesnt feel like it has given the foam any strength. I tried adding in some fine coco fiber to give the drylock more of a gritty texture but it still isn't adhering as well as I would have hoped.

I'm considering doing a layer of grout to give it some structural stability and then re-coat with drylock to seal it but I wanted to see what other people are doing before I do that. Any help would be appreciated!


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## Qfrogs (Feb 2, 2011)

I'm working on a drylok viv right now. The stuff does not stick too well to uncarved foam. And even carved foam is a little to spongy for the drylok. Drylock is not very elastic so it will tend to crack and shrink after drying. For my build I used a product called Durham's Water Putty. It is cheap, found at Lowe's and it adds some really good texture and strength to the "rocks" without needing to ph neutralize it. Then you can paint it. Still would recommend putting it on pretty thick though as it does tend to shrink when drying and cracks a bit if too thin of a layer is put on.

Note: water putty will not stay solid if emmersed or it is in constant contact with water after initial drying, so make sure to cover it completely with drylock. I will have a build log up soon about my 50 gallon using this method in the next week or so.

Enjoy


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## zBrinks (Jul 16, 2006)

I've been using the pink insulation foam, and sanding it well with a sanding sponge before applying drylok. After sanding, the drylok adheres very well to the foam, and 2-3 coats typically does the job. I have not noticed any shrinking.


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## Jonas35 (May 31, 2009)

First off, thank you all for your responses, I love how this board is so openly helpful to any and all difficulties in the hobby. 

Secondly, what is the consistency of the drylock once it is dried? Does it harden to make the foam somewhat rock-like or is it more like silicone since it is latex based? I do agree that the foam seems to be spongy even after the two layers I have applied and I'll have to sand down the areas where the foam is showing through the drylock

Qfrogs, how much was the water putty and how easy is it to work with?

I'm leaning towards slapping on a layer of grout since I already have the supplies necessary. Anyone think that 1-2 applications of grout would work or would that be counterproductive since it would only be a thin application?


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## Averhoeven (Jul 11, 2010)

Adding the grout would defeat the purpose of using the drylock. So far mine appears to be spongy over the great stuff. I used fine grade sand paper over uncut foam and it grips better. For my stone I did an additional, initial layer of Activa Permastone. It's a special plaster and hardens it all while adding stone texture.


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## Qfrogs (Feb 2, 2011)

Jonas35 said:


> First off, thank you all for your responses, I love how this board is so openly helpful to any and all difficulties in the hobby.
> 
> Secondly, what is the consistency of the drylock once it is dried? Does it harden to make the foam somewhat rock-like or is it more like silicone since it is latex based? I do agree that the foam seems to be spongy even after the two layers I have applied and I'll have to sand down the areas where the foam is showing through the drylock
> 
> ...


Durham putty is really cheap, cheaper than grout almost. It is really easy to work with, just add water, and then let dry


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