# tinc not eating well and getting thin



## mtbrutger (Jun 5, 2015)

Hello,
I have a (probable) pair of matecho tincs and the male just does not eat very much. Every time I feed it it pounces on the first fly it sees and then from that point on it hunts down flies but just stares them down for a while as the female goes around inhaling every fly in site. I'm currently feeding them d. hydei but have also tried d. melanogaster to see if he just doesn't like the larger flies, but no difference. Dusting with Rep-Cal Calcium and Repashy Supervite. Their habitat is a very healthy vivarium, occasionally on hot days here it gets a bit above 80 degrees in there but usually stays mid to upper 70's. He's just pretty thin and I'm a bit concerned. Any suggestions?

Mat


----------



## Auratus4Ever (Jan 30, 2016)

I would run a fecal test on them or just deworm them. Weight loss is one of the first signs of nematodes. I work at an aquarium that keeps darts and I also keep them personally and honestly every single time they have lost weight it was because of nematodes.


----------



## dendrobates99 (Jul 1, 2016)

80 degrees is to hot. They will be more susceptible to illness and parasites at that temp. If you can run your air condition do so.


----------



## Auratus4Ever (Jan 30, 2016)

I would second what dendrobates99 says also, 80 degrees is to hot.


----------



## cam1941 (Jan 16, 2014)

80 degrees is not too hot as long as you have proper ventilation and your humidity isn't kept consistently too high.

Be mindful of where dart frogs come from guys...


----------



## MasterT (Jun 7, 2016)

They said that the Viv stays in the 70s guys, read the whole thing, my house can be 115 Degrees as long as the inside of the viv stays at the right temperature I do not understand what it would matter?


----------



## roundfrog (Jan 27, 2016)

My frogs have been up to 83 before. I've been to Costa Rica before, and believe me, it's a lot hotter than the temp you guys say is max. Keep in mind, p.vittatus is from Costa Rica. And 80 isn't really to hot. Frogs use evaporative cooling, so as long as the humidity isn't 100%, they can cool themselves. Back on topic, I would get fecals, like Auratus4ever said.


----------



## Auratus4Ever (Jan 30, 2016)

We should focus on trying to help this person with their dart frog. I would still say to run a fecal on them or deworm them.


----------



## Ed (Sep 19, 2004)

Auratus4Ever said:


> We should focus on trying to help this person with their dart frog. I would still say to run a fecal on them or deworm them.


Deworm them for what? You do realize that different parasites require different worming agents so what works on some nematodes may not work on tapeworms or flukes or even non-worm parasites like coccidians and overgrowths of what are normally commensuals. So in reality you would have to dose the frogs at least four different medications and then repeat the dose at the proper schedule (which for some medications is daily and may require capturing the frog and tubing it. 

Suggesting a shotgun worming really isn't a good idea and can hasten the demise of an ill frog. Stick to the fecal suggestions. 

some comments 

Ed


----------



## Judy S (Aug 29, 2010)

Don't take this the wrong way...but here in MD the vet has to actually see the frog.......like, what is the vet gonna do? Stick something up for a "sample" as you would with a dog? Makes NO sense to me to be required to do that...what kind of alternatives are there???


----------



## Ed (Sep 19, 2004)

Hi Judy,

I get the sentiment but this can be important, for example one of the main ways that coccidians are diagnosed as a cause is through an exam if the fecals are negative. This is why many vets like to see the animals as they can evaluate them not only on the history of the animal but can see the condition of the animal in question. 

some comments

Ed


----------



## Judy S (Aug 29, 2010)

gotcha...but ....but....$40 for an exam and to this true novice, a skinny frog is a skinny frog...guess removing the one suspect frog and putting into a cup with just a wet paper towel and immediately taking both frog and cup to the vet would be the best thing?? Am trying to find a good method to post or refer to for making ff larva feed outs....for frogs to gain weight...any suggestions?

In MD you have no choice but to take the actual animal....


----------



## Vinegaroonie (Jul 31, 2015)

Same here, our vet said we needed a visit a while back for a dumpy frog who wasn't eating. Basically said that "they found nothing" but that she came from a place with much more humidity than what I was giving her and that was absolutely, positively it. Dumpy frogs actually come from an area of Australia that generally have pretty low humidity, so I said that that was probably not the issue. They insisted, ushered me out the door and charged us $150. Went back again, frog is deathly thin and I was asking for assistance with force feeding. They said she was too delicate (definitely not true) and charged me another $150. Turns out that she had impaction from the coco fiber in her tank. I took her to another vet and it was an immediate diagnosis. 

Sorry for the long winded response, but I think it's silly that they require appointments for animals they clearly don't understand and then charge you upwards $100 to falsely diagnose. Next time I'm coming here first.

-Niko


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Ed (Sep 19, 2004)

Judy if I remember correctly Maryland requires a Veterinarian-Client-Patient Relationship before they can write a prescription. If you have a regular vet for your frogs talk to him about it and then ask if he would have to see the frog each time you want a fecal checked. In many states if you have established a good rapport with the vet with animals they have seen before, they may be able to waive having to see the animal each time. 

some comments 

Ed


----------



## Vinegaroonie (Jul 31, 2015)

Vinegaroonie said:


> Same here, our vet said we needed a visit a while back for a dumpy frog who wasn't eating. Basically said that "they found nothing" but that she came from a place with much more humidity than what I was giving her and that was absolutely, positively it. Dumpy frogs actually come from an area of Australia that generally have pretty low humidity, so I said that that was probably not the issue. They insisted, ushered me out the door and charged us $150. Went back again, frog is deathly thin and I was asking for assistance with force feeding. They said she was too delicate (definitely not true) and charged me another $150. Turns out that she had impaction from the coco fiber in her tank. I took her to another vet and it was an immediate diagnosis.
> 
> Sorry for the long winded response, but I think it's silly that they require appointments for animals they clearly don't understand and then charge you upwards $100 to falsely diagnose. Next time I'm coming here first.
> 
> ...







Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Vinegaroonie (Jul 31, 2015)

Sorry for the double post, tapatalk doesn't like my phone!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Judy S (Aug 29, 2010)

Thanks Ed....may try either my dog/cat vet or my equine vet.......both qualified to look through a microscope for worms! The post about being ripped off is making my point....but have to wonder whether the vet was advertised as dealing with frogs.


----------



## Ed (Sep 19, 2004)

Judy S said:


> Thanks Ed....may try either my dog/cat vet or my equine vet.......both qualified to look through a microscope for worms! The post about being ripped off is making my point....but have to wonder whether the vet was advertised as dealing with frogs.


I have to admit that I'm often surprised that people don't go check out a new vet before they use them much less return to them if they don't like the care or feel of a visit. I've emphasized this several times, you should find a vet that is willing to work with you on the care of your animals. When I moved too far from our old dogs' normal vet, I made an appointment to go and check out the local vets and the facilities and didn't like the first two and went with the third vet. He absolutely is willing to work with us on care of the dogs and has keep the quality of life of the animals firmly in mind. 

The other thing people often forget is that even a dog and cat vet is going to have a better idea on the medications and so forth that will be effective than many non-vets. Virtually all of the advancements in reptile and amphibian care started with a vet who had a non-standard patient and tried something, found it worked and published the trial as a case study. A good vet will work with you and as with your medical care ask questions if you don't feel satisfied with the current answer. 

some comments 

Ed


----------



## tardis101 (Apr 11, 2012)

Often folks think a frog is "too skinny" based on other people's photos of frogs (but many times those frogs are obese). A photo would help us.

Second, if it is in fact too skinny, you should probably quarantine it and try feeding it a few flies at a time and see if it eats all of them. I'm taking like 7-10 flies and then watch it. If it's just not eating much because it's less aggressive than it's tank mate that's one thing. Female tincs can be very aggressive. I've had to separate my breeding pairs on more than one occasion because (1) the female stress the males out to the point when they don't always get much food; and or (2) the females just eat all the food faster than what the males do. Make sure you are using quality supplements and observe the frog for a few days. If no improvement should maybe should see a vet. 

One thing to also check is if you really have a pair (again a picture would help). You could have two females.

Mike


----------

