# Exo Terra?



## kyle1745 (Feb 15, 2004)

Anyone build a whole frog room with Exo Terras? If so can you post pictures/links to how you built the racks or etc?

I'm looking to slowly migrate my room from 10gals & etc to larger tanks So far my initial test with a few 18x18x18s has gone well and now im looking for how ideas. I need a good winter project anyways.


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## JoshK (Jan 5, 2009)

kyle1745 said:


> Anyone build a whole frog room with Exo Terras? If so can you post pictures/links to how you built the racks or etc?
> 
> I'm looking to slowly migrate my room from 10gals & etc to larger tanks So far my initial test with a few 18x18x18s has gone well and now im looking for how ideas. I need a good winter project anyways.


 
Hey Kyle, I have three of the 48" racks that I keep Exos on. I keep an 18x18x18/24 and an 24x18x18/24 on one shelf and it works out well, although I can imagine custom shelving would be more efficient. I will post some pics later on.


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## frogfreak (Mar 4, 2009)

I used unistrut to build the rack. Strong and somewhat portable. I wanted a seamless look.










Black melamine boards were set in place










Indutrial strengh velcro holds the horizontal boards in place. No hinges.










Conduit was added for the misting system. No rattling of lines.










The start of a frog room


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## joshsfrogs (May 6, 2004)

Kyle,

Check with brinks, he uses them exclusively.


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## kyle1745 (Feb 15, 2004)

Very cool and where did you get the "unistrut"? Looks like it worked well. How has it held up? Any pics of it finished?


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## frogfreak (Mar 4, 2009)

We use it at work Kyle. The stuff is super strong. It hasn't flexed at all. Just the 3 vivs done so far. There's a few on the bottom I'm redoing. I'm want to be finished by the end of March. 

Here's the link. There should be a supplier near you. It's the same stuff they use for signing roads. Don't get any ideas 


Welcome to Unistrut, The Original Metal Framing


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## sports_doc (Nov 15, 2004)

Glenn amazing set up....you can come to NH anytime and work on mine! 

Kyle, check with Amanda and Greg. They use a lot of them.

I have about 12 now...and prefer the 24x18x24 [LxDxH], but with thumbs I am using the 18x18x24.

The 18 talls are just too short Kyle...go with 24 tall for sure.

Shawn


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## kyle1745 (Feb 15, 2004)

Im looking to do a rack or group of 18x18x18s for tincs and etc. Then some 12x12x18s for some thumbs. I do want to do a couple of the 18x18x24s as well, but need to work out a system first. I'm debating to automate the misting or not as I don't want to mess with drains. Going for super simple...


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## sports_doc (Nov 15, 2004)

Stubborn frogger. 24 high I tell you....24!

The plants outgrow the 18's in 6 mo or less. When they reach the top they rust out the screen. Besides IMO doing 15H tanks is easier and cheaper....unless you spring for the 24wide/24tall exoterra then it starts to pay off. Better plant growth, and Amanda swears better frog production.

S


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## frogfreak (Mar 4, 2009)

sports_doc said:


> Stubborn frogger. 24 high I tell you....24!S


I agree. You'll kick you're a** later LOL. I've done that more than once already. 

All my Exo's are 24" H. It just keeps everything uniform and is great for plants. It's a really is a nice canopy for the frogs. I only use 18 x 18 x 24H and 18 x 24 x 24H. 

Thanks for the compliments Guys.


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## ChrisK (Oct 28, 2008)

sports_doc said:


> Stubborn frogger. 24 high I tell you....24!
> 
> The plants outgrow the 18's in 6 mo or less. When they reach the top they rust out the screen. Besides IMO doing 15H tanks is easier and cheaper....unless you spring for the 24wide/24tall exoterra then it starts to pay off. Better plant growth, and Amanda swears better frog production.
> 
> S


Yeah totally true, I got some Colons in an 18" zoomed cube temporarily till their 24" tall is done, and I'm constantly cutting stalks off of a Polly because I'm scared that each new leaf that grows is going to push the lid off since they grow right up against it. Bigger tanks are probably always better for frog production also.


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## kyle1745 (Feb 15, 2004)

While I like the idea of the larger tanks Im initially looking for tanks for tincs and etc. I may get some other frogs and larger tanks.

So did everyone drill the tanks, I am trying to avoid that this time and get away from my fixed drains. I would like to have mobile racks so I can clean and etc. I may start with a rack upstairs to hold 4 18x18x18s, but all just ideas right now. Hoping to get time to start the clean up and then Ill plan to get more tanks.

Keep the pics coming, examples coming...


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## frogfreak (Mar 4, 2009)

I didn't drill any of mine. I ran a 1/4" tube down the holes at the back of the Exo and am pumping it out. There's a filter made out of eggcrate and screen/paint straining material to protect the inlet from clogging.


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## kyle1745 (Feb 15, 2004)

Im pondering starting with a custom rack with 6 18x18x18 and 2-4 18x18x24s. It all depends... I need some more examples.

Also has anyone replaced the screen in the top with better screen? I have used some stainless steal woven mesh before but its overkill. I need to find something between the stuff that's on the tanks and this mesh. I'll have to check the place I get the mesh from. I have already found the mesh works well for the front edge with a little CA to hold it in place.


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## jubjub47 (Sep 9, 2008)

I think I told you last night Kyle, that I replace the entire top with glass and then build a 1" screen front where i mount mist nozzles and also can adjust airflow depending on the cycle i'm keeping them in at the time. I'll try and get some pics tomorrow.


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## kyle1745 (Feb 15, 2004)

Ya im trying to avoid making it too difficult, not that cutting glass is, but replacing the screen then covering 3/4 of it with clear plastic sheets is rather easy. Im not too picky but trying to keep it simple as possible. I am trying to avoid cutting and drilling glass. Main reason I have not done anything with what I have, I simply don't have the time to spend drilling, cutting, and cleaning the glass. 

Im hoping the larger tanks with drastically reduced misting, will keep me away from the need for drains and etc. I'm hoping to either manually mist or get a timer to do 15 seconds or so. Small bursts and not the minutes I do today.


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## Jason DeSantis (Feb 2, 2006)

The unistrut can be bought at any local electrical supply store or sometimes Lowes and HD. As for the exos I just used plexi for the tops on top of the screens. It was quick and easy and held in the humidity.
J


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## jfehr232 (Apr 13, 2009)

frogfreak said:


> I didn't drill any of mine. I ran a 1/4" tube down the holes at the back of the Exo and am pumping it out. There's a filter made out of eggcrate and screen/paint straining material to protect the inlet from clogging.


Do you have a picture of this? As in the tube down the holes in the back?


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## laylow (Apr 6, 2009)

kyle1745 said:


> Anyone build a whole frog room with Exo Terras?


Kyle, if I wasn't playin with my I touch I'd copy and paste the link. Check out tuckinrim he has an awesome frog room of only exo's. I promise you'll be happy you gave his setup a look!


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## frogfreak (Mar 4, 2009)

laylow said:


> Kyle, if I wasn't playin with my I touch I'd copy and paste the link. Check out tuckinrim he has an awesome frog room of only exo's. I promise you'll be happy you gave his setup a look!


This is where the inspiration for our frog room came from.

Thanks Chris! Awesome frog room!

http://www.dendroboard.com/forum/members-frogs-vivariums/41975-few-pics-frog-room.html


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## kyle1745 (Feb 15, 2004)

That is nice, very clean. Any build shots?


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## kyle1745 (Feb 15, 2004)

Anyone else?


Also what are people doing to the tops? I know some please replace it with glass and others do not. Tell me what you're method is.


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## jubjub47 (Sep 9, 2008)

Here's a couple pics that should give you an idea of what I've done with mine Kyle. I'm still in the process of converting vivs over to this style. I have pieces made so I can adjust the ventilation on the vivs for seasonal changes.

Top view










Bottom view - had to change the fill light to see it better


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## kyle1745 (Feb 15, 2004)

Tough to tell from the pics, but is that glass with a screened section in the front?


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## jubjub47 (Sep 9, 2008)

Yeah, I don't really have one setup easy to get pics of it. One inch of screen in front with the mister mounted to a small piece of acrylic on the screen section. I also have acrylic sections cut to cover the screen when I want to cycle them. It's a pretty easy mod and does a good job.


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## kyle1745 (Feb 15, 2004)

So did you cut the glass yourself or have it cut? I have a good place for glass but really do not feel like cutting it myself. Cutting glass should let me use my stainless steal mesh to keep the ffs in.


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## jubjub47 (Sep 9, 2008)

I had mine cut. I've never really felt comfortable enough to try it myself.


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## kyle1745 (Feb 15, 2004)

Ya while glass cutting can be cheaper, in my opinon unless its a big project its more trouble than its worth. I'm assuming you went with double pane? What dimensions did you get the glass cut?


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## jubjub47 (Sep 9, 2008)

Nah, just single pane. I've got the dimensions written down somewhere, but can't find them at the moment.


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## kyle1745 (Feb 15, 2004)

Well first rack is nearly built ran out of screws so Ill need to finish it up tomorrow. This one is going to hold 4 18x18x18s on the lower level with 4 18x18x24s above them. Its a beast and no easy way to get a picture where it is as I basically had to build it in place. If all goes well i may build another one just like it.

Any ideas how to seal the plywood? Just deck sealant or paint?


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## jubjub47 (Sep 9, 2008)

I think deck sealant is the way to go, but maybe stain it.


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## kyle1745 (Feb 15, 2004)

Ok I did some major gutting of the frog room, and then was able to get a picture of the new rack.

I really can not say enough about these Simpson ties. They make it cost a little more bit this thing is sturdy. It will hold 4 18x18x24s on top and 4 18x18x18s on the bottom. It is in place and now I need to add lights, and keep cleaning.

Materials for anyone interested:
12 RT24 Simpson sites
3 packs of ties screws
1 pack 2 1/2 deck screws
13 2x4s 8ft
2 Sheets of 1/2 plywood for shelves


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## Jason DeSantis (Feb 2, 2006)

Lookin good Kyle! The simpson ties will work out great in the long run. Especially since wood likes to move. I hope you did the crown up on all of the boards. It would add to the strength of the shelf.
J


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## Fishman (Jan 16, 2007)

Unless you went with MDF or OSB board for the shelves you really shouldn't have to seal them. I have un-sealed plywood as my shelves under every fish tank I own in my fish/ frog room. They get water on them constantly (not to mention the humidity) and I have never had a problem (two years and counting). But if you want to seal them then just basic latex paint is the cheapest and easiest to work with, one coat to as many as you want to do.


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## kyle1745 (Feb 15, 2004)

Ya thats about exactly what I did, 2 quick coats of black just to be safe from an undetected leak. On my original rack I did not need to use plywood, but since the bottom of the exo terras are not flat I felt this was a bit safer.


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## chinoanoah (Mar 9, 2009)

I love all of you. I wish more people documented their setups!


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## kyle1745 (Feb 15, 2004)

Ill try to take more pictures as I go but it will be tough where the rack is.
Im thinking about how to put the shop lights on as i will have a bit of overlap in the middle. I can find some nice pums for the middle tanks i gues.


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## kyle1745 (Feb 15, 2004)

How much space do you guys leave for screen who have replaced the top with glass?

The opening in the top is 17x17, im thinking about glass cut 16 7/8 x 14 with a 3/4 window screen frame should leave me roughly 1 1/2 inches for the front edge.


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## DRep (Jun 2, 2009)

For everyone who KNOWS you can't keep chams in glass - Chameleon Forums

That is a thread by a chameleon breeder who has recently switched his chameleon housing to almost exclusively exo-terras, and posted a photo of his rack system. I have a good number of my chams in them too, but want a bit more height for some species, so I'm having Protean terrariums build me some similar style enclosures with more height (like on pg 7 of the thread). Obviously the care is different for frogs than chams, but the reduction in misting needed is a huge advantage to glass for some keepers (screen cages for chams can require multiple 15 min misting sessions a day, vs 1 or 2 1 minute sessions in glass). I leave the tops screen since they still need ventilation to avoid respiratory problems and since reptiles often need the UV. I know they're not frogs, but sometimes it's nice to see other applications and thought you might want to see that rack system as well.


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## jfehr232 (Apr 13, 2009)

Thats a very nice setup....


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## kyle1745 (Feb 15, 2004)

Interesting but Id have to be a misting fool to leave the tops and the tops rust. I do like the setup thought its nice. Small fortune in lighting.

Im going to replace most of the top with glass but have not locked down the exact size yet.


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## zBrinks (Jul 16, 2006)

Here's an older pic of my (mostly) uroplatus rack - the frog racks are basically the same design (with reduced ventilation, of course).


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## kyle1745 (Feb 15, 2004)

The contact paper look is so darn clean... Any ideas what size the glass was? I'm thinking 16 7/8 by 14 leaving about 2 inches after the window screen frame. I ordered some different stainless steal mesh Ill let everyone know how it does.

Question on the contact paper how does it look on the inside of the tank? Since I'm assuming the outside is the best part.


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## zBrinks (Jul 16, 2006)

The size of the glass for the top of the frog vivs is 13.25''x16.75''. I use wire cutters to remove the little plastic tabs on top of the exo.

The black contact paper does look very clean. It's 18'' wide, so slightly wider than the side pane of glass on the exo. I spray the glass with dishsoap added to water, then apply the contact paper. I use a plastic putty knife to smooth out the air bubbles, then trim off the excess with a razor. If done properly, the black contact paper looks as good inside as it does outside.


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## kyle1745 (Feb 15, 2004)

You did a whole square though of window frame right? That should make mine about 3/4 if a inch less as I use one side not four. Also how much play was there on the 16.75 sides? I was having a tough time telling the lower inside dimensions.


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## zBrinks (Jul 16, 2006)

There wasn't too much play at all. I left the front vent a little larger, as I used the metal window screen frame to hold the screen. Overall, I'm pretty happy with how it works.


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## kyle1745 (Feb 15, 2004)

Cool thanks for the info... I'm going to try to order the glass tomorrow, and all I should have left to get is more leca which I can pickup local.


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## Tony (Oct 13, 2008)

zBrinks said:


> Here's an older pic of my (mostly) uroplatus rack - the frog racks are basically the same design (with reduced ventilation, of course).


What did you use to hold the posts together in the middle? Is it readily available or a custom part you created?


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## zBrinks (Jul 16, 2006)

Its a custom part - just some angle iron that was drilled, along with some nuts and bolts.


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## pl259 (Feb 27, 2006)

kyle1745 said:


> Anyone else?
> 
> 
> Also what are people doing to the tops? I know some please replace it with glass and others do not. Tell me what you're method is.


I have two 18x18x24 exos and I take out the screen top and replace it with 3/16 glass, that I silicone in. I also silicone in a thin vent alone the front door edge, framed with the same screen frame material we typically use for verts.

On my exos, the original screen top is held in with plastic features that are molded into the top frame of the tank. These need to be cut out for the glass and vent to lay flat.

You should also make a silicone in place gasket for the outer door edges to help limit FF escapes. I do this by taping some wax paper to the outer door edge and then running a small, clear bead of silicone along the edge from the outside, and smoothing with my finger. It's not big. Just big enough to fill the gap. After it's cured, open the door and remove the wax paper. 

Some people do some thinge to fill the gap in the middle between the doors. Both of my tanks were fine.

Lastly, there's a vent below the doors that should sealed with screening. It takes a little disassembly, but needed to help with the escapes.


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## Tony (Oct 13, 2008)

zBrinks said:


> Its a custom part - just some angle iron that was drilled, along with some nuts and bolts.


Would you mind posting a close up shot so I can see how you made it?


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## kyle1745 (Feb 15, 2004)

I received my new screen today which looks to be some nice stuff. Has some weight to it and maybe tough for the bottom front but Ill see what I can do.

I now have a new issue. I need to step down from my old misting system to the new one from 3/8th ID to 1/4 OD. My current thinking is to find a 1/4 to 3/8 barbed and get a small piece of 1/4 ID to go to the converted I ordered. It can never just be simple... This project has gone from quick and easy to what was I thinking..  Its all good but always more than you think about initially.


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## jubjub47 (Sep 9, 2008)

Will this work?

http://www.mistking.com/product.php?productid=16164&cat=258&page=1
http://www.mistking.com/product.php?productid=16158&cat=258&page=1


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## kyle1745 (Feb 15, 2004)

Don't think so, I was talking to Marty about it.

I think it will have to be something like this:
http://www.plumbingsupply.com/barb.html (second one)

Then to this:
http://www.mistking.com/product.php?productid=16158&cat=258&page=1 (which I have)

Still looking but not sure if I can find the first part in plastic and local. The local Lowes was no help and I may check Home Depot tomorrow.


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## jubjub47 (Sep 9, 2008)

Hey Kyle, I came across this that may do what you need.

AZDR.com - Arizona Dendrobate Ranch - Quality Dart Frog Breeders & Terrarium Supplies


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## kyle1745 (Feb 15, 2004)

I managed to find a 1/4 barbed to 3/8 barbed at a local hardware store. So a small piece of 1/4 tubing between it and the reducer I bought and it is working. 

So far I have the 3 tanks I had on the rack with converted tops to the glass/stainless mesh. I'm picking up my 5 tanks tomorrow and then ill have a lot of work to do, but that's my plan for xmas vacation. Im hoping to attempt some things with the larger tanks when I get them and I need to get some frogs moved before I can clean out some other thanks.


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## kyle1745 (Feb 15, 2004)

Ok some pics... (from my cell phone for now)

Now these are three exo terras I have been testing for some time. Only one had frogs in it and I have just replaced the tops with glass/stainless screen. I will try to get some better pictures of the tops when I work on the next batch.


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## ChrisK (Oct 28, 2008)

Do the nozzles hold good onto the plain screen like that?


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## jubjub47 (Sep 9, 2008)

Did you just go straight through the screen to mount the nozzles or is there a piece of acrylic there?


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## kyle1745 (Feb 15, 2004)

Just the screen, and this screen is some sturdy stuff. Its not your average window screen. I messed with some acrylic and quickly stopped. Its some brittle crap.


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## ChrisK (Oct 28, 2008)

Is it the aluminum screen roll that they sell right next to the fiberglass one at HD, like same size and all?


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## kyle1745 (Feb 15, 2004)

No not at all. This is stainless steal woven mesh that will keep the ffs out.

McMaster-Carr
Here is the part number: 85385T956

This is the stuff I used to use (85385T966) which was even more expensive. The new stuff seems like it will work very well. It will not rust corrode and over all keeps the ffs in.

I have not made up my mind to work on the front vent or not.. Its a royal pain and Im not sure I care in the basement.


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## kj (Jan 15, 2006)

Im thinking of using a few exo's but when i was thinking and planning it, on the top i was going to place the mesh bit at the back and glass at the front. Can i ask why did you place the mesh at the front ?


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## kyle1745 (Feb 15, 2004)

Im sure there are more than a couple methods used here but in my opinion you need something in the front to help keep it unfogged. With that said I pondered putting some in the front and back but went with a larger section in the front.


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## Fishman (Jan 16, 2007)

Kyle,
can you PM/email me where you are getting the exo's from and what the prices are like? Your thread is inspiring me to switch a few of my more difficult to work with verts and my local pet supply chains are no longer carrying them, or only have 1-2 at a time and no price breaks.

Thanks!


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## kyle1745 (Feb 15, 2004)

Ok getting ready for phase 2, and am wondering if I can skip the Simpson ties if I only do 6 tanks to a rack. I was thinking simple deck screws and 2x4s. The Simpson ties are nice but Im wondering it they are overkill.


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## zBrinks (Jul 16, 2006)

IMO, overkill is never a bad idea . . .


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## kyle1745 (Feb 15, 2004)

Valid point but they are also 50% of the overall cost of the racks. For the next rack I already have them but since I am planning to make the racks smaller in case they need moved it seems like way over kill at that point.


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## Marty (Feb 27, 2004)

Setup looks great Kyle... I didn't know you have so many tanks. You're a freak !


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## kyle1745 (Feb 15, 2004)

Actually reducing my number of tanks during this but in hopes of offering the frogs more space and better habitats. So going from roughly 50 to 30 tanks.


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## Jason DeSantis (Feb 2, 2006)

kyle1745 said:


> Ok getting ready for phase 2, and am wondering if I can skip the Simpson ties if I only do 6 tanks to a rack. I was thinking simple deck screws and 2x4s. The Simpson ties are nice but Im wondering it they are overkill.


With the way you ar building the racks and the weight of the exos I would recommend some sort of tie. The ones you have on the first rack are expensive but they do make ones that will add the strength you need and are around $1 each. Its the butting of two joints like the way these are that makes the connection less stable and easier to rack from side to side. Now if you were to buil the shelves first by making a box and then adding the legs you would be able to eliminate the ties.
J


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## kyle1745 (Feb 15, 2004)

Good point and I think I have come up with a option to reduce the number of ties, but still use them. Now I just need some free time to get to work.


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## Philsuma (Jul 18, 2006)

Nize.

I'm a fan of the baker's rack , which most of you know but those look.....smug.

Kyle,

Do you have a material costs breakdown per chance?


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## kyle1745 (Feb 15, 2004)

For the shelves?

The ties I used are about $4-5 and if you only made 2 levels to take a lot of weight you would need 8 of them. Then 2-3 packs of screws which are $7 each. 2x4s are $2-3 each and for 3 levels roughly 13-15 of them. I'm sure there are some other minor costs and if you could reduce some things. I did add 1/4 inch plywood to the shelves which was about $15 a sheet. 

The larger one I built to hold 8 tanks earlier in this thread was about $150. I have materials to build the 2 smaller ones to hold 12 more tanks, minus a few odds and ends.

I like the bakers racks as well but have to get away from 10 gal tanks and want a more uniform look than I could get with bakers racks. This is relatively cheap and veyr sturdy. The rack I just dissembled had been up for a years and I had no issues and I am reusing all of the wood for the new racks.


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## Tony (Oct 13, 2008)

How is your rack holding up? I want to start building my own soon with a similar design, did this work out well or is there anything you would change?


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## Ulisesfrb (Dec 8, 2008)

Any updates Kyle??


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