# brom color up



## huyvu (Feb 2, 2009)

I have a few neo fireballs and zoes brom that I am trying to color up. I have a 20gh tank and I place the broms up high to the tank as possible. I was first using an exo hood with the two 6500k bulbs and the brom thrive and pup, but lost its bright color after a few weeks. Therefore, three weeks ago I bought two 24w sun blaze t5ho strip light with german made reflectors, which put out 4000 lumens. So far, my broms are still green with no sign of bright color in sight. The tank is seriously bright with this setup, but broms are still green.

Will my broms color up if given time or do you think I need more lighting?


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## Brien (Aug 27, 2009)

Give it some more time?


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## Frogtofall (Feb 16, 2006)

There are many things that can factor into a bromeliads color. Stress, light intensity, temperature and fertilizer to name a few. I've had lots of experience growing bromeliads in terrariums, on porches, shade houses and greenhouses. I can say the most consistent thing was pure light intensity and very little food in the form of fertilizer. From growing outside, cooler temps (< 80F) coupled with lots of light (~2700 foot candles) always gave the best colors.

It may just be what brien suggested. It may take some more time. I've had some in terrariums lose color and then color back up after months of waiting.


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## huyvu (Feb 2, 2009)

From both your reply, I have enough light for broms to color up, but I have to give it more time. Is this right?


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## Mitch (Jun 18, 2010)

I agree, give them some more time. Also I have some fireballs with some crazy intense red, and then others just a foot below that has barely any red... no clue what's up with that. It took a month or two for them to get that red though.


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## Frogtofall (Feb 16, 2006)

Mitch said:


> I agree, give them some more time. Also I have some fireballs with some crazy intense red, and then others just a foot below that has barely any red... no clue what's up with that. It took a month or two for them to get that red though.


A foot of distance in a terrarium is a HUGE difference. The light intensity die off as distance increases is steep with artificial lighting.


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## Dendroguy (Dec 4, 2010)

try setting them in a bright windowsill,i find that the younger broms color up faster


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## huyvu (Feb 2, 2009)

There is about 5 inches of space between the broms to the light fixture. That is as high as I can place the broms. I guess it just a waiting game and eventually the broms will color up, right?


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## josh_r (Feb 4, 2005)

Lighting can be a HUGE factor and the slightest decrease in light can affect the color greatly. Here is a great example.

In this first pic, the lighting is about 5 to 6 inches from the plant. In the second pic, the lighing was only raised about an inch to an inch and a half max and the brom lost quite a bit of color.










The lights were only raised about an inch to inch and a half and this happened. You can see that even the punctatissima in the background have lost color as well.


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## huyvu (Feb 2, 2009)

It has been a month and a half, my broms show a slight shade of color, but not full color. Do I just give it more time or would getting another light strip, which would give me 72watts and 6000 lumens, give my brom enough light?


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## phender (Jan 9, 2009)

Read Antone's post again. It's not all about how bright the light is. The brighter light is going to increase the heat, which is actually counter productive for color.


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## Brotherly Monkey (Jul 20, 2010)

Frogtofall said:


> There are many things that can factor into a bromeliads color. Stress, light intensity, temperature and fertilizer to name a few. I've had lots of experience growing bromeliads in terrariums, on porches, shade houses and greenhouses. I can say the most consistent thing was pure light intensity and very little food in the form of fertilizer. From growing outside, cooler temps (< 80F) coupled with lots of light (~2700 foot candles) always gave the best colors.
> 
> It may just be what brien suggested. It may take some more time. I've had some in terrariums lose color and then color back up after months of waiting.


Antone, how often, and at what strength, do you generally feed your broms?


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## Frogtofall (Feb 16, 2006)

In the greenhouse, I very very rarely used any foliar ferts. Maybe just one or twice a year and VERY diluted bc Neoregelia are particularly sensitive. They will go solid green and get "leggy" in a heartbeat. I did, however, use granular feed in the soil. I believe it was 13-13-13 N-P-K, Nutricote brand. I don't think you can get Nutricote anymore but there are others that are very close. 

In the terrarium I never feed. Enough fruit flies and frog droppings end up in the cups that it's not necessary.


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## GRIMM (Jan 18, 2010)

Frogtofall said:


> In the greenhouse, I very very rarely used any foliar ferts. Maybe just one or twice a year and VERY diluted bc Neoregelia are particularly sensitive. They will go solid green and get "leggy" in a heartbeat. I did, however, use granular feed in the soil. I believe it was 13-13-13 N-P-K, Nutricote brand. I don't think you can get Nutricote anymore but there are others that are very close.
> 
> In the terrarium I never feed. Enough fruit flies and frog droppings end up in the cups that it's not necessary.


There are a lot of people out there asking about additonal ferts for vivs housing darts. Has anyone ever suggested taking a few frog droppings out, then letting them disolve in a misting bottle for a few days? I think that would be a perfect way to give an even dose of ferts to all the plants, especially orchids with visible roots. Frog droppings only hit isolated areas of plants, so I think a poopy mist could be beneficial a few times a year


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## frogparty (Dec 27, 2007)

72 watts isnt that much light, what size is the viv? I have 78 watts 6700k on my 27 hex
The spectrum of lighting you are providing could play a major role as well.


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## Brotherly Monkey (Jul 20, 2010)

Frogtofall said:


> In the greenhouse, I very very rarely used any foliar ferts. Maybe just one or twice a year and VERY diluted bc Neoregelia are particularly sensitive. They will go solid green and get "leggy" in a heartbeat. I did, however, use granular feed in the soil. I believe it was 13-13-13 N-P-K, Nutricote brand. I don't think you can get Nutricote anymore but there are others that are very close.
> 
> In the terrarium I never feed. Enough fruit flies and frog droppings end up in the cups that it's not necessary.


Interesting, I never thought they would uptake nutrients through their roots. thanks for the tips


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## huyvu (Feb 2, 2009)

right now I am using two t5ho strip light, each 24w, for a total of 48w. These are 6500k daylight strip light. I do have separate german made reflectors over each of the strip light.

Its a 20g high tank.


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## frogparty (Dec 27, 2007)

Sorry, I just reread your post. My fireballs only really looked great when they were at the very top of the viv. move them 3" down, and they lost 50 percent of their color


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## yomamafat (Jun 16, 2010)

It takes time for them to color up and they need you need to control the distance from the light source. Too far and they don't color up. Too close and the leaves start to burn. You have to get to know your other tank conditions as well such as temperature and humidity. I have not ever fertilized my broms, but I have them planted in flourite clay and they do great or I mount them to lava rock. I hope that helps.


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## Frogtofall (Feb 16, 2006)

Brotherly Monkey said:


> Interesting, I never thought they would uptake nutrients through their roots. thanks for the tips


Very little; that's why it works.


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