# DIY Misting System



## defaced (May 23, 2005)

You can thank Luke (Darks!de) for this. I hadn’t planned on making this thread for another week or so, but his misting nozzle question kinda broke the flood gate. Hopefully this is good enough to be stickied.

I’ve desperately wanted to get a misting system for a long time now, but simply couldn’t afford it. Prices start at 150 and go up from there. I’ve seen a system very similar to the one I made being sold for in excess of 300 bucks, the cost of mine… less than 100 bucks. 

There are two things that are absolutely crucial to a misting system, the pump and the nozzle. Pumps are hard to find because they are high pressure, low flow rate pumps, which is backwards from the pumps we use to power our water features. 

First I'll discuss some pump basics and how I found my pump. 

Ok, so things are a little more complicated than just getting a pump. There are two main kinds of pumps we’re looking for, a piston pump and a diaphragm pump. Now with the diaphragm pumps there are two types, demand and bypass. A diaphragm demand pump has a switch on it that measures the outlet pressure and decides if the pump needs to be on or not. This value is usually factory set and can’t be adjusted. A bypass pump stays on regardless of pressure. 

There are two companies I’ve found that make these pumps at an affordable price: Shurflo and Flojet. Each makes diaphragm pumps that are used for RVs, but they run on 12v DC. Luckly they also make diaphragm pumps that use 120v AC, those are what we want. As has been discussed on this board, Flojet makes a piston pump that works well, so well that it is actually the pump used in alot of misting systems sold on the net. 

Now getting a pump isn’t hard, but finding one at a good price is. Enter our friend eBay. I watched the prices of these pumps for in excess of two weeks and rarely saw a 120v AC diaphragm pump go for more than 50 bucks. I picked mine up for thirty. What did I get?.. A Shurflo 2088-994-500 bypass pump. It’s an old model, but I got it new and that’s all I cared about. 

Now for the nozzles: There are a lot of nozzles out there. Some are brass, some are plastic, some are barbed, some are threaded, some have check valves and the list goes one. I’m poor, I want something cheap and so, I went with a basic barbed misting nozzle. Price… .68 cents each. 

The description says fogger, but that’s because it’s on an irrigation site, and for them misting involves large droplets and high flow rates. Now if you wanted to make a rain system, their misting nozzles would work perfectly. I’ve tried it. 

So you’ve got your pump and your nozzles so what’s next. Well, you need some tubing, fittings, a reservoir, and a timer. 

We’ll start at the beginning of the chain, the reservoir. I used a 3 gal water jug I had laying around. There are many ways to connect the reservoir to the system, but I just drilled a hole in the lid and stuck my intake hose in it. 

Next in my system we hit a filter. I picked this up on eBay for 5 bucks. It’s a Shurflo 50 mesh water filter. Now I’d like to get a 200 mesh filter, but really can’t spare the money right now. Because my filter was designed to work on the vacuum side, I put it there. More than likely, if you decide to get everything at the same place, the filter will go on the pressure side of the pump. Each threaded connection was first wrapped with Teflon tape. This keeps the junctions from leaking. 

My pump setup is probably different than what most will want. I have mine wired to a light switch so that I countrol the misting manually. This keeps the cost down and since I like to play with my frogs it's no big deal for me to mist. A timer could easily be used, but I didn't want to mess with one. 

From there we hit the manifold. Now this isn’t an essential part, but it is a big factor in scalability. You know when you are taking a shower and someone flushes the toilet and you get burned? Well that’s because the size of the pipe supplying water to your bathroom is the same size pipe that goes to the toilet and shower. Now the way to solve this is to increase the size of the main pipe. Same goes for misting systems. The manifold is the “main pipe” so by having everything branch out from there you’re able to supply more lines and thus more nozzles. 

The manifold is made from schedule 80 PVC (I got it just because it’s threaded and the schedule 40 isn’t). The tubing used for the misting nozzles is 5/16”, so drill and counter sink some 5/16” holes in your pipe. Now what you’ll do is insert a small piece of tubing onto a coupler. Take that and now push it into the hole in the pipe. Because the coupler is barbed it will make the diameter of the tubing larger right there and when it’s pushed inside the pipe is make a nice tight seal that won’t blow out. 




















Parts list: 
1	Shurflo Diaphragm Bypass Pump (1/2” pipe thread) 30.00 eBay
2	Shurflo Filter (1/2” pipe thread) 5.00 eBay
3	Threaded PVC couplers (1/2” pipe thread) .38 Lowe’s
4	Threaded barbs (1/2” pipe thread) 3.00 Lowe’s	
5	3/8” Black vinyl tubing (5’) .47 per ft	Lowe’s
6	Schedule 80 PVC (1/2” pipe thread, 6” long) .36 Lowe’s	
7	Threaded PVC end cap (1/2” pipe thread) .38 Lowe’s	
8	10 Pack of ¼” couplers 1.09 
9	Nozzles .68 
10	¼” Black misting tubing (50’ roll) 3.55 
11	10 Pack of ¼” Ts 1.35 
12	10 Pack of ¼” elbows 1.35 
13	Teflon tape 1.35 Lowe’s	

I currently am running eight nozzles off of a three connection manifold. Two of the branches have two misting nozzles, the third has four nozzles. Now, the pump you buy, the size of your manifold, and how many misting nozzles you put on one distribution line will determin the total number of misting nozzles you can expand this to. I think I could easily do 20+ and be fine with my setup, but I don't have the nozzles to test that... yet. 

There are some disadvantages to my system. First, the pump can be loud. As the number of misting nozzles increases, the noise form the pump decreases. However, different pumps will respond differently so this isn't a problem that will always exist. Also because the systems on the net use the same pumps their setups will have the same problem. 

Second, the barbed connections are a pain to remove. You have to slit the tubing to get it off. One could go with push on connectors, but that will really drive up the price and finding such connections can be a pain, plus the whole system has to use a different kind of tubing, making the manifold difficult to make. Push on connectors could easilly end up making the price per misting head around 20 bucks. 

Now one would think I could sell this system and make some good cash. There's one reasons I'm not doing that: I'm in school and can't afford the money or time to do that. So since this is a part of the hobby the DIYer hasn't really cracked, I thought I'd share since I was able to do it. 

Happy, _affordable_, misting.



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## dmatychuk (Apr 20, 2005)

Mike,
Great post thanks for all the information! A question on the pump. When it is being supplied by a pressured system such as a water purification system does the pump you recommend leak or better worded, does it allow water to flow through when it is turned off and thus the nozzles constantly drip? Is there a better pump for that application, either diaphragm or piston?

For those interested in a water purification system I bought mine on eBay from the recommendation of someone on Dendroboard from "Filter Direct" and it has been a great system. You can get either RO water or RO+DI for the same price.








http://stores.ebay.com/Filter-Direct-store

I purchased my ¼” OD push connectors at Home Depot. They have elbows, Ts and most importantly the shut offs. I made my manifold with just a bunch of Ts connected and I have ¼” going in and ¼” going out and at least for my application of 12 nozzles there is absolutely no manifold problems but this may be because I use a different pump. As far as the filter for the intake I just used a sponge and crammed my tubing into it.

Mike (or anybody else),
Do you have a recommendation for the pump timer? Or one other thing that is needed and I don't know if this is the right term but the bulkhead for the spray tubing to go into the Viv, any suggestions?

John R. wrote:


> They're pretty cheap individually but they have a $50 min.
> 
> http://www.kesmist.com/nozzles/nozzles.htm


If you want an alternative selection of nozzles the link above has what you need but I can't make a recommendation of them.


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## gary1218 (Dec 31, 2005)

Mike,

AWESOME post. I'm sure this will be a GREAT help to many of the hobbyists here.

One question on the pump, are you sure that's the kind of pump you need? I believe those pumps pump a large amount of water under low pressure and what you need is a small amount of water under high pressure, aka a booster pump. The booster pumps are also VERY quiet when they're running.


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## defaced (May 23, 2005)

Yes, this is the right kind of pump. The 12v DC pumps are designed to be the source of water for RVs and such, so they're designed to be compairable to the pressure/flow rate that you get out of your faucet. 

Mine is rated for 3.8gpm but I'm not sure of the pressure, I can't find info on it because it's an old modle. I also haven't bought a water pressure gauge or enough tubing to test it. All of the one's I've looked at have had flow rates between 1gpm and 5 gpm and pressures from 30psi to 80psi. I haven't researched piston pumps but from my understanding (Rainmaker I system) they're around 100psi, but with much lower flow rates. I'll see if I can find the thread on here that has the modle number and such for that piston pump. 

I think the reason for my pump's noise is because it's designed to push 228gph and I'm only using 6gph of that. Increasing the number of nozzles would lower the total system pressure and thus allow the pump to not have to work as hard. I first had only 4 nozzles on the system and it was almost offensively loud. I doubled that number and heard a dramatic decrease in noise. When I tested the pump at zero pressure, no nozzles in my sink, it was dead quiet. 

The pump I have will allow water to pass though it when it's off. A simple check valve placed before the manifold would stop nozzle dripping, I just haven't found one that's threaded. There are also check valves that can be bought that are placed right before the nozzle that does the same thing. They're available on the drip irrigation site I have listed in my first post. Both of these solution will only work if the inlet pressure is below the check valve's crack pressure. My solution is just to place my resavoir below my pump. 

Max inlet pressure is typically around 30psi, so as long as your water purification doesn't exceed that you'll be fine. I've thought about putting an RO membrane in after my pump because I've got the pressure, and even a low gpd membrane would be plently for my system.



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## dmatychuk (Apr 20, 2005)

Mike,
Again good info.

I have my RO before the pump and between the RO system and my pump I have a 15 gallon pressured Reserver tank. The pressure coming into my house is around 35lbs and with this amount of pressure I get water flow past the pump when it is off. I will try the check valve. 

I love my two pumps, one has 2 nozzles and the other has 12, both are very very quite. The sound of the mist coming out of the spray head is louder than my pumps. I don't think noise is that big of a deal because it is on so little but if it is too loud then heck I wouldn't like that. For the benifit of others describe how loud yours is.


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## defaced (May 23, 2005)

Check valves have a crack pressure of like 2-7psi, it won't work. The only way you'll stop the drip is to locate your RO unit after your misting pump, or to put a timed valve between the two systems. Valves like that are used in irrigation so they're not too hard to find. 

I'm a musican so I'll record what it sounds like in the next couple of days. I also took my pump apart as soon as I got it to see how it worked, so I may not have put it back together correctly. What brand/model number pumps are you using? Right now my pump sounds like a quiet air compressor, where befor it sounded like a loud one.



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## dmatychuk (Apr 20, 2005)

Unfortunately the two pumps I have both have been relabeled and I can not find any markings as to the manufacturer. The one pump that I like the best was put in by Aquathin Corp for my home drinking water system. I don't see anywhere on their site the pump though http://www.aquathin.com/index.htm

As far as the timer is concerned I currently have "Intermatic 7 Day Digital Programmable" which runs about $23 and I do like it a lot.
http://www.shop.com/op/~Intermatic_7_Da ... od-7377327
Also Home Depot is supposed to carry it but I have nver seen it. Does anyone know of a better or cheaper one?


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## defaced (May 23, 2005)

The kind of timer I"m talking about is actually a timed valve the opens or closes the water path. 

Can you get some good pics of your pumps? I can probably ID the mfg from that. I've stared at ALOT of pumps over the past two months.



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## Darks!de (Nov 16, 2004)

That's the same one I use and I really like it. It gives you lots of programmable options so that you can set up quite complicated misting regimes.

GREAT job on the writeup Mike. Thanks for the info. I'm going to order some nozzles and fool around with some sort of system.

Luke


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## dmatychuk (Apr 20, 2005)

Pictures have been REMOVED from my gallery.


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## defaced (May 23, 2005)

Both of those look like Flojets. They're both diaphram pumps. I say that because they're the only company I've seen to use internal threads on their pumps. Shurflos have external threads and sometimes moveable elbows.



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## dmatychuk (Apr 20, 2005)

Thanks for the ID. It would be great to know then if the Flojet is just quieter than the Shurflo or if it is because of our individual setup.

_________________

David Matychuk


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## defaced (May 23, 2005)

It's a setup difference. I've got a flow chart for a pump bery similar to mine and there isn't data for pressure with a flow rate of less than 1 gpm, which means the pump is working at a much higher pressuer than it's designed to. I'm going to try a bypass valve and see what that does. I'm hoping I can balance pressure and flow with it. I'll have a write up about the details in choosing a pump either later today or tomorrow that will detail all of this.



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## kyle1745 (Feb 15, 2004)

So defaced do you have this setup and running yet? Hows it going?


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## defaced (May 23, 2005)

Been setup for more than a month. The only problem I have ever had would be the nozzles clooging because I use tap water and only a 50 mesh filter. The next big goal is to do a bypass valve to get the pump quiter, but that won't happen for another month or so because of school. In with that project I'm going to add a 200 mesh screen filter and hopefully test the max number of nozzles.



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## Guest (Feb 27, 2006)

> dmatychuk
> Joined: 20 Apr 2005
> Total posts: 584
> Location: Shakopee, MN
> ...


I can't see your pumps....would like to. Most interested in this thread. May save me a lot of leg-work.


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## Guest (Feb 27, 2006)

dmatychuk, 

Do you have specs. on this system? What filter membrane does it use? How many gallons (approx.) can you filter before needing replacement of membrane? What, if any, is the waste water to RO water? What percentage does it filter to? Microns of filtration? Does it have a pump or no?

I guess what I hate about ebay, is that often getting specs. or any real info one has to dog it down rather it just being posted.


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## dmatychuk (Apr 20, 2005)

Sorry I don't think that I have any specs. It does not included a pump but it didn't need one if your system is above 30lbs. It is more effective with higher pressure but how much I do not know.

When I get home tonight I will post a picture of the pump again and look to see if I can find the specs.


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## dmatychuk (Apr 20, 2005)

Here is the specs off the eBay store with an 800 number to call and get more info. It looks like they are using GE filters.


> Filter Direct Co. is a distributor of WaterGeneral Manufacturing Co., and the preferred partner of Honeywell Inc. on water products. We have very knowledgeable tech support & Customer service team at ( 1-888-633-7972, 9am to 5pm PST, M-F) if you have questions regarding to this listing
> 
> The system come with high capacity filters, you only need to replace the pre-filters and post filter once a year instead of every 6 months, the cost is only $34 for 4 filters which you replaced once a year. You can purchase this filters on our Ebay store.
> We offer two year limited warranty covering all parts and components.
> ...


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## defaced (May 23, 2005)

If you search google for either pump manufacture there are a few different RV/Rec places that have 115v AC pumps, it's just that they're usually around 80 bucks or more. Of the stuff I've seen on eBay most of the people are pretty good about posting the specs or the modle number. From there just google the modle number and you're gold. Also on eBay the selection is limited. Of the 60 or so hits you'll get for Shurflo there'll be 6 or so AC pumps, the rest will be 12v DC pumps or buy it nows.



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## Guest (Feb 27, 2006)

Thanks!


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## defaced (May 23, 2005)

There's also this thread (link) that has the details on a Flojet piston pump, similar to what comes with the Rainmaker I system. It's 55psi and .4gpm, so it'll be pretty limited in total system size, but perfect for a rack.



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## jhupp (Feb 27, 2004)

David,

Not to high jack defaced's thread, but you shouldn't need a pump if your RO unit is plumbed into your home plumbing. If your water pressure is high enough to drive water through the RO system it is certainly strong enough to drive just about any low-flow nozzel on the market. Most will be in the 15 to 100 psi range for low-flow and residential water pressure is usually in the 40 to 60 psi range for most areas. I am using my RO unit to drive six nozzels similar to those that Marty produces, and its plumbed directly into my reef tank. I just ran .25 in bevrage line from the unit to the viv, and use a RainBird irrigation solenoid and timer to control the system. I put the nozzels together myself with fittings and bulkheads from rowatersystems.com and nozzels I bought from BARRS at show several years ago, which worked out to about 10$ an assembly.

Jay


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## Guest (Feb 27, 2006)

The reason I asked about a pump is the membrane has an optimum pressure. They work in a given range yes. I'm not sure what my water pressure is at the moment. I was just curious. Heck, if it came with a pump doesn't mean that pump couldn't be used with a DIY misting system. At that price, I didn't expect a pump....wishful thinking.

dmatychuk,

Thanks for the follow up. It gives the data I was curious about.

defaced,

Thanks. I already have that pump listed in my favorites! Just trying to get everyones, then I will do something with them....or go it some other way that I dream up.


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## dmatychuk (Apr 20, 2005)

> I just ran .25 in bevrage line from the unit to the viv, and use a RainBird irrigation solenoid and timer to control the system.


Jay,
You are right and thanks for the infomation the piece that I was mssing was the solenoid and I was using the pump as my on/off contrlo with a timer and it wasnt working so good.


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## defaced (May 23, 2005)

David, post your pumps again if you could please. I just found another diphram pump maker while searching for RO units. It's a company called Aquatec. If I remember right one of your pumps has a similar base to these, and since they have recessed fitting like Flojet it'd be easy to mistake the two.



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## Guest (Feb 28, 2006)

Aquatec.

I also, came across that companies pump. I thought maybe it was a Flojet however, thus didn't give it much thought.

http://www.rowatersystems.com/catalog/p ... oducts.htm


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## Darks!de (Nov 16, 2004)

Just wondering, is it possible to alter a 220v appliance to function on a normal house circuit?

Luke


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## defaced (May 23, 2005)

Yea, but you'd need to do the math to see if it's safe. You'll need a 115v to 230v transformer and use the 120v as your primary and the 230v as your secondary.



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## Guest (Mar 1, 2006)

If anyone was wondering who the @ss was that got this one with 8 seconds left it was me. Sorry if I outbid any of you guys. 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... %3AIT&rd=1

I got the misting nozzels from cloudtops.com the John Guest fittings from rowatersystems.com and the hose timer from homedepot.com 

I probably have about the same or more $$$ invested in my system but it will be cool that my pump will only turn on every couple of days. 

THe Most king delux nozels can be made from peices from rowatersystems but they will not be the cool black like mistking

good luck to all


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## defaced (May 23, 2005)

Nice snipe. That retails for around 250. For adjustable misting noxles I just used small pieces (3/4" long) of tuning and barbed connections. Adjustable, black and very inexpensive.



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## Darks!de (Nov 16, 2004)

Ahahah, I was going to bid on that! But instead, I bought a 1.4g 100psi pump from shurflo.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... %3AIT&rd=1

Luke


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## dmatychuk (Apr 20, 2005)

Pictures are back in but I am going to remove them in a day or two.


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## Guest (Mar 2, 2006)

dmatychuk,

Thanks. I saw them.


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## Guest (Mar 7, 2006)

defaced,
Thanks for taking time for this DIY mist system. When ever I can save $$ her and there for things like this, it seems to ease the "guilt feeling" for spending yet more $$ on the hobby.
I'm going to start gathering the needed items to build a system. It would be great if peeps would post their DIY findings on what pumps work well (quiet/noisy), what gpm and pressure etc...with related model #'s. The surflo pumps seem to be most popular. The model #'s are formatted like xxxx-xxx-xxx. Does any one know what information this provides if any?
There seems to be new pumps listed every day on Ebay.

Thanks again,
kaybee.


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## defaced (May 23, 2005)

Alright, I took some time last night to tinker with my setup and try some things, bypass, pressure readings, manifold design stuff,.... I'm going to post the updates with some tech info on pumps and how to choose one. If there are any questions you'd like answered, or things you're particularlay interested (pictures, diagrams...) in post them up and I'll answer them with my next update.



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## Guest (Mar 22, 2006)

I got my ShurFlo 804-023 water boost system running last week. It has been 7 days with the pump not plugged in running 1x .5 ounce/min nozzle without plugging in the pump again. I think with only one nozzle the system will stay pressurized for weeks between the pump needing to turn on. The new system will have 6 nozzles and only expect to have the pump on about 1 time a week. the pump #8025-933-399 is very quiet and will pressurize the tank automatically when the pressure drops.


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## defaced (May 23, 2005)

What are you using between the pressure tank and the nozzles to tunr the water supply on and off? I assume either a ball valve for manual control or a selinoid w a timer for automatic control. If it's a selinoid, could you post the brand and modle number?



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## raimeiken (Dec 24, 2006)

dmatychuk said:


> Unfortunately the two pumps I have both have been relabeled and I can not find any markings as to the manufacturer. The one pump that I like the best was put in by Aquathin Corp for my home drinking water system. I don't see anywhere on their site the pump though http://www.aquathin.com/index.htm
> 
> As far as the timer is concerned I currently have "Intermatic 7 Day Digital Programmable" which runs about $23 and I do like it a lot.
> http://www.shop.com/op/~Intermatic_7_Da ... od-7377327
> Also Home Depot is supposed to carry it but I have nver seen it. Does anyone know of a better or cheaper one?


what is the minimum time you can set this to run?


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## Rambo67 (Jun 12, 2006)

1 minute


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## Fish_lover0591 (Dec 16, 2006)

hey defaced this thread is awesome so can you direct me to a pump setup i can use on my 55 gallon ? it can't be noisy though . I also don't have an ebay account so thats out of the question. I want maybe 2 or 3 nozzles on it.


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## MCampbell (Feb 10, 2007)

You could try:

http://www.interlinksupply.com

This website is primarily a seller of equipment for carpet cleaning. However, in the pump section they sell Shurflo and Flojet pumps in both diaphragm and piston types. I've purchased the piston type and used them with great success on several misting systems for my own animals. I've also purchased and wired up diaphragm pumps from them for misting systems for other people. I like the piston pumps because they're inexpensive ($35) and work great when used with a timer for up to 6 nozzles (you could probably run more). I'd use diaphragm pumps for more nozzles or where there is a concern regarding running the pump dry. Diaphragm pumps can withstand running dry for brief periods whereas the piston pumps will be damaged.


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## hoyta (Jan 18, 2006)

*whoa*

Hey all! I see you are using shurflo pumps for this application- We used Shurflo pumps here where in the boat factory to run the livewells...
What exactly am I looking for when I look at these pumps to see if they will work for a misting system? Thanks alot!-Adam


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## defaced (May 23, 2005)

You're looking for them to be able to supply a pressure over 35psi. It's pretty common to find them in the 50-90 psi range.


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## nellis (Aug 23, 2006)

in response to Jhupp's RO driven system... 

Is it the pressurized diaphragm in the RO resevoir that drives the water through the misting valves? If this is the case, and one cannot or will not run tubing from their basement or under their sink to their vivs, those that already have an RO system can simply buy a backup resevoir... say a 4 gallon, and switch it out with their primary RO resevoir whenever it goes empty. The resevoir can sit in the stand under the viv or wherever, and you could either use the included ball valve to manual mist, or buy an in-line solenoid and automate it with a timer.

Wish I had known that the RO system could drive nozzles earlier...


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## hoyta (Jan 18, 2006)

*HEY ALL!*

Ok, the pumps we carry by SHURflo are the problaster series. They are used to pump water to the saltwater and freshwater washdown nozzles. Its basiacally a washdown pump. The thing that excites me is that it says its not made to run more than 20 minutes in an on hour time period due to higher pressure(!) I think this is the pump! The only problem I would see is that it says it pumps 15gallon a minute....


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## defaced (May 23, 2005)

At 15 gpm, I highly doubt you'll be able to use the pump. It sounds like it's intended to move alot of water, not produce alot of pressure.


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## medicineman (Jul 3, 2006)

First of all I'm sorry that I might sound ignorant because I know that in the past there were probably similar questions.

I want to know how many nozzles I can run using regular RO booster pump, 50gpd and 100gpd respectively and if the pump is really practical for this application (I'll be mounting the nozzles 5-6 feet higher than the pump). Pumps are rated at 120+PSI
I havent been able to see any GPM rating or any performance chart of each pump, but I ask anyway who knows someone with the experience can foreseen the possibility.

The pumps I refer to are such as these 
http://www.pwgazette.com/6800pump.htm


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## Studdlygoof (Feb 10, 2007)

Kinda late on this post but thought i would throw in some two cents about the hose being difficult to slip off the barbs...i had the same problem with some airlines on one of my fishtanks...i set them in some boiling water for a SECOND and they slipped right off and when the tubing cooled it was right back to its normal diameter...dont know what kind of tubing you are using but maybe it could help...


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## defaced (May 23, 2005)

Medicineman,
Without a flow curve, you can't make any predictions about how many nozzles the pump can push. The amount of head you're talking about (5 feet), is for all intents and purporses negligable for what we're doing.


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## Bulldogfish (Apr 23, 2007)

I am curious if a windshield washer pump would work in this application? It just seems like a good choice as well and a lot cheaper. Then again duty cycle could burn one up. What do you think?


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## defaced (May 23, 2005)

There are a few threads in the archives about the topic. If I remember right, they "work" but it's a barely viable solution; they crap out easily and can't really properly supply more than a couple of misting heads.


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