# My Little Wall. A not so Big build.



## Seth K. (Jan 24, 2010)

So Its been a long time. I've been out of the dendroboard loop for awhile but I though maybe this build would encourage those of us who have limited space to 
Be creative with the space you have and not give up.

Sherwin Williams was redoing their wallpaper display shelving at my local store and they gave me the two they were getting rid of. 
They are 6.5' tall 4'wide and two ft deep.


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## Seth K. (Jan 24, 2010)

The shelves themselves are 18" deep so I am going to rearrange the spacing and extend them. I want my tanks to be two feet deep.

My basic layout will be two 48"x 24"x 36"Vivariums across the upper part of the cases and four 24"x 24"x 36" Vivariums under them.


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## Seth K. (Jan 24, 2010)

I love Craigslist! I found a Church that was replacing its windows. 11 sheets of 1/4" glass. For free!

It was pretty dirty and had calcium build up or staining.
I looked on YouTube and found a guy who uses used glass to build aquariums. 
He uses Barkeepers Friend.
It will make cloudy glass look new!
It is also food safe. You just have to make sure you rinse it all off.

Barkeepers Friend
https://www.walmart.com/ip/15026756...75035&wl11=online&wl12=15026756&wl13=&veh=sem


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## Seth K. (Jan 24, 2010)

Here are some pictures of the first vivarium.
Built with salvaged glass.

Thanks to my friend Zack (pictured) who helped with the assembly.


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## Seth K. (Jan 24, 2010)

Here it is on the shelf.



I Ductaped a piece of packing foam to the shelf to keep it from slipping and help protect the glass.


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## Seth K. (Jan 24, 2010)

My idea for this vivarium is to have a stump/root system on the left and a large Rock on the Right.

Getting eggcrate to fit inside a vivarium has always been a chalange for me. 
I just found a trick. No more measuring!🎉
If you just lay it on top of the vivarium you can see exactly where to mark it and cut it out!





Another trick I found helps is to always keep the heads of your Zipties on the underside. When you tighten them you don't have to trim them and it saves time.


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## patm (Mar 21, 2004)

Looks phenomenal, I wish I was handy enough to do a custom job like that. Curious what style you're going with for the doors and vents?

Pat


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## GOSKN5 (Dec 31, 2011)

That's an awesome set up.. nice custom work 

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## wimvanvelzen (Nov 1, 2008)

That is some great handiwork!


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## Seth K. (Jan 24, 2010)

Sorry it's taken so long to get back with you.
I'm going with Sherman tanks design for the front vent.
I bought all the track and stainless steel screen from Him.
From what I have heard his track is the best!
He mills it all and whatever he uses is really slick!

https://m.facebook.com/shermantanks.co/


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## Seth K. (Jan 24, 2010)

Thanks all for the kind words. I don't have a lot of experience with cutting glass but I'm learning. I've found that it is super helpful to use a high quality cutter.
I've had quite a few lines that didn't shap straight after I scored them. 
It's extremely important to have clean glass and score in one pass. No stopping and starting. 
I also use a running tool that helps a lot. There are some cheaper kinds but I really like the way these work.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001...ing+pliers&dpPl=1&dpID=319JEn6HIBL&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B006...X236_SY340_QL65&keywords=carbide+glass+cutter


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## Leuklover (Jul 18, 2016)

Your build looks good!!! I can't wait to see how this turns out! Any ideas for inhabitants? Plants?


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## Seth K. (Jan 24, 2010)

My plan for this build is to house Large Obligates.
Since I have limited space I have decided that is the direction I want to go with my collection.


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## Seth K. (Jan 24, 2010)

Id like to keep it pretty natural and use plants native to 

Colombia, Paru, Equador and Brazil.
I'm pretty much open to using anything though

Does anyone have suggestions for epiphytes from those countries?


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## Seth K. (Jan 24, 2010)

Here are a few shots of the front vent. 







I needed a support on the inside to hold the vent level while it dries. So I used a couple pieces of eggcrate.


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## Seth K. (Jan 24, 2010)




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## Seth K. (Jan 24, 2010)




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## Seth K. (Jan 24, 2010)

I siliconed the cork to the glass and when it was dry I filled the gaps with pond and landscape foam.


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## Seth K. (Jan 24, 2010)

Almost done.


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## Lokirathehunter (Oct 16, 2015)

I love it!


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## erikm (Oct 1, 2015)

This is looking VERY awesome so far. Subscribed!


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## Seth K. (Jan 24, 2010)

Thank you.

I have begun the next Vivarium and think I will try to continue the theme so that when all of them are done they will all look like part of the same picture.
Here are a few pictures of my preliminary Rock sculptures.


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## Seth K. (Jan 24, 2010)

Here are some pictures of how I am covering my boulders.


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## Seth K. (Jan 24, 2010)

I made some hidden caves for film canisters/egg laying sites.


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## Seth K. (Jan 24, 2010)

What do you guys think? I have some cork rounds I want to put together to make a massive vine that visually looks like it starts in one Vivarium and continues through the other.?


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## Seth K. (Jan 24, 2010)




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## baskis (Jun 7, 2015)

This is just fantastic work. Wonderful hardscaping


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## chillplants (Jul 14, 2008)

Inspirational so far. I'm hoping to do a big build some time this year and this is making me want to start sooner than later.


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## Seth K. (Jan 24, 2010)

chillplants said:


> Inspirational so far. I'm hoping to do a big build some time this year and this is making me want to start sooner than later.


That would be awesome! You should do it. When you do let me know I'll be interested to see your work. Also I'd be glad to help in any way I can.


I really like working with this blue foam board.
It's easier to make look like rock than some foams because of the way it snaps in a clean round way. Sort of like flint.
I just cut things to the basic shape I want and then dig my fingers into it and break off what I don't want.

Here is my progress since this morning.


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## Beardedfrogger (Oct 22, 2016)

What did you coat the foam with dryloc?

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## Seth K. (Jan 24, 2010)

Beardedfrogger said:


> What did you coat the foam with dryloc?
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-T817A using Tapatalk


 I have been mixing 2 cups Titebond III to 1 cup red clay with half a cup of ground Fir bark powder in my blender for texture.

I have also been using Kitty Diggins fragrance- free cat litter (Fuller's Earth) mixed with Tightbond III to coat the foam between the cork slabs on the background and the flying buttress stump. 
While it's wet I press moss into it or whatever I want to use to give it texture.


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## Seth K. (Jan 24, 2010)

Beardedfrogger said:


> What did you coat the foam with dryloc?
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-T817A using Tapatalk


I like using Tightbond III because you can color it to whatever you want by what you mix into it. And if you want more texture while it is wet you can sprinkle, blow or pat pretty much anything into it. 

I also mixed a little milk and yogurt when I was blending it. 
I'm hoping that will give the surface a slight acidity that will encourage moss growth.


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## Beardedfrogger (Oct 22, 2016)

Looks awesome can't wait to see them finished!

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## Seth K. (Jan 24, 2010)

Beardedfrogger said:


> Looks awesome can't wait to see them finished!
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-T817A using Tapatalk


Thanks I'm pretty excited about getting them done and getting frogs in them Too. 
I don't know if it comes through in my posting but I'm Super excited about this build! I hope that it is an encouragement and help to someone. 
Happy frogging.😊


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## Beardedfrogger (Oct 22, 2016)

I had just posted a question asking if you can use hobby foam/insulation panels for this purpose so you did encourage me to try something new!

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## Seth K. (Jan 24, 2010)

Progress update. 
I now have the vent and track installed. 
Prepping for foam and cork.


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## Paddy (Jan 6, 2017)

These are going to look really exciting!


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## Seth K. (Jan 24, 2010)

What do you do with your cork background when your vivarium is too big to handle all by yourself?
You Stick-em-up!


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## Seth K. (Jan 24, 2010)

Sometimes it's hard to visualize the size of a vivarium without anything to compare to so my daughter took this picture today.
Progress has been sort of slow the last few days. I'm trying to find a cheaper source for the black Touch N Foam pond foam. 
At my local hardware store it's $8.99


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## wimvanvelzen (Nov 1, 2008)

Nice! Quite a bit larger than I would have guessed just from the pictures.


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## Mobsta303 (Aug 3, 2016)

Man those tanks look super sweet wish those were in my possession haha, excellent job


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## oldlady25715 (Nov 17, 2007)

Looks great thanks for sharing. Is there drainage for the false bottom?


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## cap7 (Dec 4, 2016)

Beautiful!


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## Seth K. (Jan 24, 2010)

Am I the only one or are there other crazy people up at midnight working on their Vivariums?🤓


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## AOA (Jan 19, 2017)

wow, this is awesome. love the cork rounds. it does look like one runs into the other!

keep going........we need more!!


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## Seth K. (Jan 24, 2010)

oldlady25715 said:


> Looks great thanks for sharing. Is there drainage for the false bottom?


There will be. I presently don't have the drains installed but plan on using some Mist King bulkheads.


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## Seth K. (Jan 24, 2010)




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## Seth K. (Jan 24, 2010)

Well it's late or early depending when you go to bed or get up😜 1:50am?
Huh I guess time must have gotten away from me again...


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## Seth K. (Jan 24, 2010)




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## Encyclia (Aug 23, 2013)

These are really coming together! Your attention to detail is really going to pay off in the long run, Seth.

I did have a question. The final picture looks just like a cork mosaic background when it's done. I was just curious why you chose to go with GS in the joints of the flats then painting them to grow moss instead of just ramming sphagnum in there. I think it would save a few drying cycles'-worth of time but it might cost a little more in sphagnum, especially if you go with the good NZ long-fiber stuff (if you went with the traditional cork mosaic). I just wondering what your thought process was. No judgment! I am just always on the lookout for ways to improve my viv-building process 

Thanks for posting the build log!

Mark


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## Seth K. (Jan 24, 2010)

Encyclia said:


> These are really coming together! Your attention to detail is really going to pay off in the long run, Seth.
> 
> I did have a question. The final picture looks just like a cork mosaic background when it's done. I was just curious why you chose to go with GS in the joints of the flats then painting them to grow moss instead of just ramming sphagnum in there. I think it would save a few drying cycles'-worth of time but it might cost a little more in sphagnum, especially if you go with the good NZ long-fiber stuff (if you went with the traditional cork mosaic). I just wondering what your thought process was. No judgment! I am just always on the lookout for ways to improve my viv-building process
> 
> ...


 Thanks Mark. 
I don't know if I have a really good answer for you but I had a friend who Lost one of his Histrionica breeders because it got behind the background and was trapped. He had a different background. I wanted to prevent anything like this from happening. I really like the idea of stuffing sphagnum in the cracks and on the second tank I hollowed out the cracks a lot deeper and packed more in them. 
Another reason was I though that the background may last longer if the water were to run off the front and not behind the cork. This would help prevent trapped moisture from getting back behind the cork where it could rot it and loosen the silicone.
That's also why I used the Titebond III over the styrofoam just to help waterproof it a little bit so the moisture runs down the face of the background.

In the second Vivarium instead of siliconing the cork to the glass and then waiting for it to dry 3-4 days before I could pond foam it I siliconed egg crate to the glass (1-2 days dry time) and then just sprayed the foam on it and pressed the cork into the wet foam.
I think this method gave me a better result with a shorter try time. The air could get to the silicone easily and I didn't use as much of it. To get an irregular piece of bark siliconed at the exact points where it comes in contact with the glass seems harder to do than to press the bark into sticky foam.
Hope this helps.


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## Seth K. (Jan 24, 2010)

Right Now I have a fan blowing on the mossed background. I want to dry it out to be sure that all the glue is cured. (Then comes the Fun Do do do do.)&#55356;&#57225;Go


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## The Drunken Gnome (Dec 10, 2016)

Go big or go home! nice work on the glass work.


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## The Drunken Gnome (Dec 10, 2016)

What silicon did you use to bond the glass panels together and did you use the same to bond the tracks to the glass?


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## Seth K. (Jan 24, 2010)

Thanks. I've always wanted big tanks. So I decided to have fun.
This is the silicone I'm using. I get it from my local plastics distributor.


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## Encyclia (Aug 23, 2013)

You have really thought it out, Seth. I just wanted to read what your thought process was. Thanks for laying it out. I think, given what you were worried about, you made the right call. For future reference, I have tanks that are about 3 years old now with the cork mosaic in them and they are holding up just great. Who knows how long they will last, but they are showing no signs at all of breaking down, including the sphagnum. If you do the cork mosaic method, you have to be sure to really ram the sphagnum hard into the cracks. This sometimes means that you have to use a lot of it before it works because you have to push it way back underneath before it keeps the tension necessary to to keep it back there long term. I have used the method on many tanks with thumbnails and other small frogs and no one has ever gotten behind the cork. I think it also works well because, even in pretty humid tanks, the sphagnum dries out and is sort of a hard cake in there rather than being soggy all the time, at least in my tanks. I imagine if you mist a lot or have little ventilation, it could stay soggy all the time. In this case, I would worry more about frogs getting behind it. In my tanks, water doesn't run freely behind the cork mosaic. Having said all that, your method works just fine and will probably last just as long, if not longer. It just takes longer and requires more materials 

Finally, make sure that the silicone you are using stinks to high heaven while it cures. If it has a more mild odor, it might be the kind that uses organotins as a catalyst. That's bad.

Good job on the builds!

Mark



Seth K. said:


> Thanks Mark.
> I don't know if I have a really good answer for you but I had a friend who Lost one of his Histrionica breeders because it got behind the background and was trapped. He had a different background. I wanted to prevent anything like this from happening. I really like the idea of stuffing sphagnum in the cracks and on the second tank I hollowed out the cracks a lot deeper and packed more in them.
> Another reason was I though that the background may last longer if the water were to run off the front and not behind the cork. This would help prevent trapped moisture from getting back behind the cork where it could rot it and loosen the silicone.
> That's also why I used the Titebond III over the styrofoam just to help waterproof it a little bit so the moisture runs down the face of the background.
> ...


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## Seth K. (Jan 24, 2010)

Thank you so much Mark for the input. This is the first time I have done a cork mosaic an I still have a lot to learn.

Do you have any thoughts on promoting moss growth on the cork?
I would like to find some true tropical moss that is low growing.
I also would like to grew a lot of epiphites on the large vine. Do you have any suggestions for me?


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## Encyclia (Aug 23, 2013)

Seth K. said:


> Thank you so much Mark for the input. This is the first time I have done a cork mosaic an I still have a lot to learn.
> 
> Do you have any thoughts on promoting moss growth on the cork?
> I would like to find some true tropical moss that is low growing.
> I also would like to grew a lot of epiphites on the large vine. Do you have any suggestions for me?


I have a couple of general comments, but nothing specific. Mostly, my moss grows by accident, not through any effort of my own  I do know that it is tough to get it established anyplace close to where I have vents. It really likes it wet. It also likes light, so that makes it really tough to grow high on the background since I almost always have a vent back there. You can try moss slurry. I know there are some vendors that sell it. I tried it a time or two but it didn't work for me. I am sure it was user error, though. I know that java fern grows quick and leggy/sloppy for me. Easy to grow, though. If you use high quality sphagnum moss, it will come to life again and grow, but it can be almost a weed sometimes, so I am not sure I recommend it.

I am not sure about the epiphytes. I know that Marcgravia just mocks me when I try to tell it where to grow. It just hangs off the edge of anything I try to get it to grow along. It does great on the backgrounds, though. Covers quickly under high light. I am sure there are lots of folks on here that can help with epiphytes. Maybe start a new thread asking for recommendations (and for mosses)? I am amazed at how much folks around here know about plants.

Good luck!

Mark


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## cam1941 (Jan 16, 2014)

Hey Seth I sent you a PM. Hope that helps.


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## Seth K. (Jan 24, 2010)

Progress update:

Here are some shots of the plants in their new home.

I also have most of my substrate in and will be planting soon!


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## Timbow (Aug 17, 2016)

Seth K. said:


> Thank you so much Mark for the input. This is the first time I have done a cork mosaic an I still have a lot to learn.
> 
> 
> 
> ...




Seth,

I would check with DB username Manuran for low growing tropical moss. It will grow nicely on the background as long as it stays damp. 


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## GOSKN5 (Dec 31, 2011)

Seth K. said:


> Progress update:
> 
> Here are some shots of the plants in their new home.
> 
> I also have most of my substrate in and will be planting soon!


Looks great.. what method did you use to mount the broms?

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## Seth K. (Jan 24, 2010)

To attach the Broms I used a shish-kebob or pencil to poke a hole in the foam and then pushed the brom stalk into it. I tried to leave a long stalk so it would have plenty to hold it on place until the roots could grow.

I attached the orchids with super glue. I was watching some you tube videos and saw an orchid grower useing this method. I applied the glue, stuck the roots in it and then pressed moss on top to hide the glue. He said to get the glue to set faster one can must it. Water seems to speed the curing process.
Here is a link to his video.

https://youtu.be/xriOo2VSewA


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## Seth K. (Jan 24, 2010)

Happy Valentines Day!❤&#55357;&#56376;


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## Seth K. (Jan 24, 2010)

So I would like to get moss and other plants to grow on the large cork tube vine. 
I covered it with a layer of peat moss and sphagnum moss.
Do you think that will give a good substrate for plants and moss to grow in?


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## myersboy6 (Aug 23, 2010)

Well idk if I'd say that's a little wall Haha tank look great! 

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## Seth K. (Jan 24, 2010)

Seth K. said:


> Thanks. I've always wanted big tanks. So I decided to have fun.
> This is the silicone I'm using. I get it from my local plastics distributor.


Sorry about the long delay. It was brought to my attention that the silicone I have used is *Not Rated for Submersion!*

*DO NOT USE SCS 1000!*

I had previously bought black SCS 1200 which is what I thought I was getting and which is rated for submersion and thought it was the same thing because the tubs look similar.
Please don't make the same mistake.

I was told about a cheaper source of Food Safe Silicone if you buy by the case 
It is about 3.75 a tube.

Here is an Amazon Link.
http://https://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=19122

I had all my hardscaping done and couldn't access the inside seams. I siliconed the outside of my vives up above the water level and am hoping that takes care of it.

Thank you Cam1941 for catching my mistake. It's good to know there are people out there who have my back!


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## Seth K. (Jan 24, 2010)

*I need help finding the best sources mini orchids.
Can anyone post a few links?*


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## Encyclia (Aug 23, 2013)

Seth K. said:


> Sorry about the long delay. It was brought to my attention that the silicone I have used is *Not Rated for Submersion!*
> 
> *DO NOT USE SCS 1000!*
> 
> ...


Good catch, guys. That is a great link, too, Seth. The link is a little messy, though, and didn't work with a click for me. I just highlighted everything from www onward and pasted into a new browser window. $3.75 is a great price, assuming everything else is kosher (adhering to glass/wood/other stuff, correct viscosity, etc.).

Mark


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## edgeofthefreak (Jan 2, 2014)

Under Uses:

Limitations: Not paintable. Not for porous substrates which can be stained (such as limestone or porous tile), _not for continuous submersion_.

Not sure if this is still okay, but be worth a mention.


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## Seth K. (Jan 24, 2010)

Thanks for pointing that out. 
Here is the correct link. I don't know what the difference is between the two but this is the one that looks like the real deal.

ASI Aquarium Sealant, CLEAR, 10.2 oz


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## Ravage (Feb 5, 2016)

Yes, I have to commend you. A great build, and some really great tips. I will definitely be trying both Titebond III and gel super glue in the future. This project has really brought out the best in this whole community. Cheers!


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## mudbug (Mar 31, 2016)

Seth,

This is really nice, I hope you will post pics. when it's grown in. How did you make the vent for the top of the viv? And what type of lights are you using?


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## FlyFishRI (Jan 15, 2017)

Truly awesome build! Subscribed and can't wait to see this thing grow!


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## cam1941 (Jan 16, 2014)

How are your set ups doing?


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