# plants to use in a large terrarium



## JeffP (Mar 2, 2010)

I'm in the process of building a large terrarium. (29"x6'x6') I've been collecting some plants to put in it and have been looking at some plants grown here from bulbs that I believe to be tropical. One that I think would be neat and haven't had any luck finding people using it is Canna. I was also thinking of using some clematis to cover the back wall. I have heard it's poisonous, but is this just for eating it, or would it be poisonous to the touch? I also have a pitcher plant, and some of the usuals I'm planning on putting in the enclosure. Any other suggestions?


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## RarePlantBroker (Aug 3, 2008)

I'm assuming that your size is 29" deep by 6' wide and 6' tall? If so, this would be a great space for some neotropical understory palms. _Chamaedorea metallica, Chamaedorea adscendens, Chamaedorea stolonifera, and Astrogyne martiana_ should all do well in a vivarium. The first two only reach about 4'-5', the third about 5', and the last about 3'.

You could also use a small heliconia (_Heliconia episcopalis_ works well, and even grows as a marginal aquaitic plant).

With 6' of height, there are a large number of climbing _Philodendron sp._ and _Anthurium sp._ that are well suited to a tall vivarium. 

You can also make use of some bromeliads near the top with pendulous blooms (i.e. _Bilbergia sp.)_.

Another neat plant to use would be _Vanilla planifolia_.

Let me know if there is a certain Biotope you are going for--and we can narrow down the choices.


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## JeffP (Mar 2, 2010)

Yes, that's the correct dimensions. I like the Heliconia episcopalis, but I'm afraid it could get a little big and cramp the space a bit. I also really like the Bilbergia sp and the Vanilla planifolia which I found a variegated version of. Do you happen to know how fast these plants grow? Do you think the vanilla could grow on the back wall to help cover it?

I'm planing on putting some of the Rhacophorus gliding frogs in it. I haven't decided on which ones yet, but I'd like to have some clear space across for them to jump as I've heard that they like large jumping spaces.


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## RarePlantBroker (Aug 3, 2008)

That helps a lot. I'll work on a plant list for you for old world plant species. Do you know which _Rhacophorus sp._ you're planning to keep? (I could probably get you a plant list for the specific region).

There are a number of palm species from SE Asia that remain VERY small, and have very slender trunks. For example, _Calyptrocalyx pachystachys, Hydriastele kasesa, Licuala 'Mapu', Licuala triphylla, Lytocaryum wedellianum, Pinanga disticha, Ptychosperma waitianum, and Rhopaloblaste singaporensis_ are all palms that could be kept in a vivarium

You will want to use _Epipremnum sp._ or _Rhaphidophora sp._ for some climbing aroids. You can also use _Alocasia sp._(_A. cuprea, A. 'Polly', A. lauterbachiana, & A. rugosa_--which all stay fairly small, and will be okay with the lower light conditions at the bottom of the vivarium. _Homalomena sp._ and _Aglaonema sp._ could also be utilized.

Of course, the old standard _Ficus pumilla_ is from SE Asia too.

If you use some type of wall backdrop, or have some trees (real or fake), you can use _Bulbophyllum sp._ extensively, as well as some _Asplenium sp._, and some _Lycopodium sp._ for your epiphytes.


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## harrywitmore (Feb 9, 2004)

Most Canna and Clematis would not be a good match for a terrarium. Even mini Cannas are very large in comparison to a terrarium and Clematis like full sun and would just grow to the top and fill it up with nothing below.

Alistair made some very good suggestions.


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## JeffP (Mar 2, 2010)

Thanks, these have given me some good ideas to look for. The info I was reading on the Rhopaloblaste singaporensis said that it gets to about 10'. Is this slow growing, or could I control the growth of it? 

I was planning on using 4 fluorescent tubes with 2 2.0 uvb bulbs and 2 regular bulbs and 2 incandescent 60watt bulbs. Do you think this is enough for these plants or do I need something different? I'm trying to keep the cost down, my plan is about $400 for everything that isn't alive so the expensive lighting is something I would like to avoid.


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## Jellyman (Mar 6, 2006)

How will this work? Where will it be acessable from? Obviously not the top. Any pics?


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## JeffP (Mar 2, 2010)

Although I plan to have access from the top if needed, the basic shape will be like a flat back hex tank. The 2 45's in the front will be about a foot wide and I plan on having them slide up and give me about 1'x2' holes to work from on each side. I don't have any pics yet as I'm just getting the wood and glass together. I hope to get the base built this weekend and start putting in the back and side glass this week.


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## RarePlantBroker (Aug 3, 2008)

JeffP said:


> Thanks, these have given me some good ideas to look for. The info I was reading on the Rhopaloblaste singaporensis said that it gets to about 10'. Is this slow growing, or could I control the growth of it?
> 
> I was planning on using 4 fluorescent tubes with 2 2.0 uvb bulbs and 2 regular bulbs and 2 incandescent 60watt bulbs. Do you think this is enough for these plants or do I need something different? I'm trying to keep the cost down, my plan is about $400 for everything that isn't alive so the expensive lighting is something I would like to avoid.


I have a Rhopaloblaste singaporensis in my palm collection. I bought mine 6 years ago in a 1 gallon pot (it was about 1' tall at the time). It is now about 4' tall.... So, very slow growing. Check Floribunda Palms and Exotics - Welcome! for a source for the plants. It's best to buy the 1-gallon size if available, as the other sizes are too small to put in a vivarium with animals. If you need anything larger, send me a PM and I'll see what I can locate for you.

As for lighting, what series are your flourescent tubes, and what length? In my 5' tall display vivarium, I use 4x 48" T-8's (2x 6700K, 1x 5500K, 1x 10000K), and 2x 48" T-5's (3700K). With all of that lighting, there is still very little that does well at the bottom of the tank (_Siderasis sp._ and _Syngonium rayi_). 

You may want to add a couple of compact flourescent bulbs (the spiral type) in 6700K. You can put them in an inexpensive "clamp lamp" fixture available from Lowe's/Home Depot for about $10. They'll give off a lot less heat than adding more incandescents--which you can use to make some 'basking' spots.

I also forgot to add that if you plant to cycle a wet and dry season in the vivarium, most _Hoya sp._ would be very happy in that enclosure.


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## JeffP (Mar 2, 2010)

I went to a local greenhouse today and got some more ideas. They had the chamaedorea metallica, and the homalomena which I like. They also had some interesting varieties of pothos and philos. I was intrigued by a dwarf banana plant and tricyrtus bulb that has a orchid looking bulb. Do you have experience with either of these?

I haven't bought the light fixtures yet, but I was planning on just buying a few of the 2 bulb garage light fixtures. They are 4 feet long. I was thinking of 4 bulbs, but maybe I'll up it to 6 or 8.


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## Jellyman (Mar 6, 2006)

JeffP said:


> I went to a local greenhouse today and got some more ideas. They had the chamaedorea metallica, and the homalomena which I like. They also had some interesting varieties of pothos and philos. I was intrigued by a dwarf banana plant and tricyrtus bulb that has a orchid looking bulb. Do you have experience with either of these?
> 
> I haven't bought the light fixtures yet, but I was planning on just buying a few of the 2 bulb garage light fixtures. They are 4 feet long. I was thinking of 4 bulbs, but maybe I'll up it to 6 or 8.


I think you would be happier with a 4' T5 6 bulb fixture.


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## frogparty (Dec 27, 2007)

Tricyrtus: aka toad lily, needs a dormant period


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## JeffP (Mar 2, 2010)

I have seen a lot of people using t5 lights and I always wondered why. What would be the benefit of the t5 lights vs the regular ones?

Thanks telling be about the dormancy thing, I couldn't find anything online saying for sure.


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## Jellyman (Mar 6, 2006)

JeffP said:


> I have seen a lot of people using t5 lights and I always wondered why. What would be the benefit of the t5 lights vs the regular ones?
> 
> Thanks telling be about the dormancy thing, I couldn't find anything online saying for sure.


It is a more intense light. Better for the plants.


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## RarePlantBroker (Aug 3, 2008)

The dwarf banana should be very happy, as well as the Chamaedorea metallica. The pothos will grow very fast, so be prepared to trim that one! 

As for lights, the T-5's do put out a considerable amount of light, but I find the cost of bulbs (in the right color spectrum) to be a bit steep. You could easily mount 6-8x T-8 lights. You may still want to consider mounting a couple of compact flourescents to create a little "directional" light (looks like the sun's rays coming through the canopy if aimed correctly).


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## JeffP (Mar 2, 2010)

I went to a few more places today and didn't see much that interested me. I did find out about one more local place to try though. The only things that looked like I may try is Scotch Moss and Corsican pearlwort. 

I was sort of thinking the same thing about the lights. It seems like there is a big price difference to jump to the t-5's when I could just use more of the t-8's.
Maybe I'll also try some of the compacts. I was planning on using a couple incancesdents too, mostly just to have some warmer places.


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## jdogfunk99 (Oct 16, 2007)

Canna would do well, a little too well…it tends to spread quickly. I tried Heliconia, but it doesn’t like direct lights, only shade. I highly recommend Philodendrons, they do well and look very tropical.


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## JeffP (Mar 2, 2010)

I've been going to as many local places as possible and happened upon a large tropical supplier. They said they can't really sell to people, just businesses, but said that since I was there I could get what I wanted that 1 time. I picked up 7 broms and a silver satin pothos, and a lipstick plant. I also picked out a few things from black jungle when they had their sale. I know there was a brom, a vine and something else. I'm still waiting for delivery on these, I'll post what they are once I get them. I've also got a fern, Africal violet, a couple odd begonias I got cuttings of at a local show, and a pony tail palm, and a few other little plants. Now I'm just trying to decide on something bigger with nice sized leaves. I may go with Chamaedorea metallica or the dwarf palm, but I haven't completely decided yet. It sounds like the canna would get carried away even though some of them look to have very interesting foliage on them. I'm also trying to decide on moss. I thinking of adding some caladium too, just to have some brighter leaves in there.

As far as lighting, I'm thinking I'll go with 6 t-8's and 2cfl's and 2 incandescent. I may go up to 8 t-8's, I'm just afraid of blocking off too much ventilation.


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## Frogtofall (Feb 16, 2006)

I think the cost of the power bill in the long run will be more than just paying the initial cost for the T5's and using less bulbs. Have you done the math?? I wonder what the results would be...

You can add as many bulbs as you want but adding more doesn't necessarily make the light reach further down. It may make it a bit brighter at the top but a light can only reach down so far no matter how many there are.

I wouldn't even bother with incandescent bulbs. Waste of money there.


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## JeffP (Mar 2, 2010)

The incandescent bulbs are for temp. If anyone knows the power differences between the t-5 and t-8, I would be interested to know.


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## afterdark (Jan 16, 2007)

I found this useful when researching which lights to go with:


> There are several different factors that determine levels of efficiency. Quality of light measured in CRI (Colour Rendering Index), quantity of light measured in LPW (Lumens per Watt) and CU (Co-efficiency of utilization.) The numbers being used for CU are general for those used in the low level (12 feet and under) multi-residential environment so there can be fluctuations.
> 
> CRI levels: T12 = 62CRI, T8 = 85CRI, T5 = 85CRI
> LPW levels: T12 = 78LPW, T8 = 92LPW, T5 = 103LPW
> ...


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