# Jewel Orchids--let's get busy



## Groundhog (Dec 17, 2006)

I suspect that many of us are into these, as well (maybe not as much as bromeliads :shock: )

These include the old world Anoechtochilus, Goodyera, Ludisia and Macodes, and the new world Cyclopogon, Sarcoglottis and Spiranthes.

I claim no expertise here, but can offer some basics:

--Jewels are usually grown for their foliage, not their flowers;
--They do not appreciate very bright light, and are good terrarium candidates, but;
--Jewels are not really true terrestrials--you read that correctly. Patti Lee likes to call these "terrestrial epiphytes," as they usualy grow in leaf litter or on rotting logs, and not in soil (humus). They are orchids, after all!
-- As such, they do well in a terrestrial orchid mix or even NZ long fiber sphagnum, but it must drain well! 
--They often grow in conjunction with other cool tropicals, such as ferns and begonias--one the coolest pictures I ever saw was a Macodes petola growing on a log with Begonia luzonensis in situ!

Where to begin--I shall ask three questions:

1) Does it really make a difference if one uses lowland or highland species? How temperature tolerant are they?

2) Are they really appropriate for dart frog tanks?

3) Can any be grown as houseplants, besides Ludisia?

Discuss...


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## harrywitmore (Feb 9, 2004)

I believe you have hit on something here. While not listed as epiphytes ground dweeling Orchids and any other plant that inhabits the rainforest floor are more like epiphytes than what we normally think of as terretrial plants. The rainforest floor is not soil but a combination of all vegitation that has collected their and begun to rot. I'm sure I'm just saying the obvious but you think about mostof the epiphytic plants that grow in the crotches of trees it's the same thing. I know from experience that the Jewel Orchids I have both in the terrarium and the yard (Goodyera pubiscens) crawl around in a loose mixture of leaves and debris.
So, Patt Lee (what actually came to mind was Peggy Lee and I was confused for a moment) I believe is correct and these orchids may do well as ephiphytes and I for one am going to stick one on my epiphyte tree in the greenhouse to see what happens. Thanks George!


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## Frogtofall (Feb 16, 2006)

I disagree here. These plants are not growing attached to trees up in the canopy but are growing on the ground with thier roots scrambling around _underneath_ leaf litter and other broken down things (like logs and what not). I think epiphyte is a bad word. Maybe saprophyte or is there a better word for a plant that grows on the ground yet not IN the ground? Saprophytes grow on dying matter so maybe thats a better word since the leaf litter is technically dead or dying (decomposing).

To me a true epiphyte grows with its roots exposed to the air and light. Are they any counts of people finding Jewels up in the trees or just on fallen logs?

_ep·i·phyte
noun Botany.
a plant that grows above the ground, supported nonparasitically by another plant or object, and deriving its nutrients and water from rain, the air, dust, etc.; air plant; aerophyte._

I have a few different genera of jewel orchid doing well in terraria. Anoechtochilus, Macodes, Dossinia and Ludisia. All alive and well.


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## Groundhog (Dec 17, 2006)

*Question for ANtone*

I believe that Harry is only trying to reinforce the point that epiphyte is not synonymous with airplant. I think he meant he would stick it in a tree fork with some substrate, not glue it or tie it :wink: (I'd be more concerned with bleaching). 

In the case of jewels, the only "true" epiphyte I know is Cyclopogon epiphytica--not an easy plant! 

Before I continue--Antone, do you mean to tell me that some people glue or tie Cryptanthus to a mount successfully? If so, I need to see it . I would have never thought it possible!

But in the case of jewel orchids or Cryptanthus or Begonias--can a plant that grows on a fallen, rotting log be considered an "opportunistic epiphyte?"

Back to Jewels: the only horticultural point I was trying to make is that it is recomended that one uses LF sphagnum or terrestrial orchid mix and NOT a peat based potting soil.

Any special substrate in your tanks? Any pointers you'd like to share?

Thanks,

G


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## harrywitmore (Feb 9, 2004)

Well there are many epiphytic plants that do not produce roots that are only exposed to the air. Many grow in things such as ant nest in trees and are definitely considered epiphytes. Hoya and Dischidia are a prime example. Many of the species of these genera have a symbiotic and opportunistic relationship with arboreal ants and most (if not all Dischidia are considered epiphytes. So to me there is not too much difference in the growth habit other than where it grows. Now that does not mean that they are not saprophytes but I suspect given the definition that many epiphytes are also saprophytes. I'm still trying the Macodes on the epiphyte tree.


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## Frogtofall (Feb 16, 2006)

Hoya and Dischidia grow in ant nests above ground though, attached to trees. Air exposed roots is not an absolute in all epiphytes, its just an example of how I see epiphytes and according to the definition, a jewel orchid would not be such. I dunno what jewel orchids would be considered but an epiphyte? Hardly...

Picture of an Anoechtochilus in situ taken by my friend Amos...










Here is another picture he took and in this one you can see the stem/root above the soil a bit. Kinda neat...










Still not an epiphyte though. There are palms and trees that do that too.

By all means try the Macodes on the tree. It will look sweet.

:lol:


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## Frogtofall (Feb 16, 2006)

Re-reading the initial post, I think I mistook George's comment on what was said about them. They are considered "Terrestrial Epiphytes." I think that makes some sense if they truly do grow with thier roots in the leaf litter and such.

Woopsies.


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## Groundhog (Dec 17, 2006)

*Jewel Question(s) for Antone*

No prob, dude. One thing that everyone should be aware of--do not always extrapolate from family to cultural need. For example, what do the following have in common:

--Anthurium clarinervum
--Philodendron gloriosum
--Tillandsia rhomboidea
--Vriesea sucrei

Right--these are all TERRESTRIALS--that can grow best in pots in humid areas.

Question for Antone: Could you please share some pointers about jewels? I am especially interested in your thoughts on temperature, and highland v. lowland species.

A.J. Calisi tells me that, as a general rule one can lowland species in warm, steamy tanks, but should grow highland species in more temperate tanks. I trust Mr. Calisi, and this does sound plausible.

Your method? Or do you grow all your jewels in similar conditions? Try any as houseplants? 

Thanks,

George


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## Frogtofall (Feb 16, 2006)

You know I coulda swore A. clarinervium was epiphytic...

Anywho, I grow most my jewels in the same conditions. Terrarium care. This is...

Medium light
Damp feet
low 70s high 60s F

The couple I have outside are kept shaded and damp. Never tried any in the house. I don't think any of mine are highland although the Anoe. might be.


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## Groundhog (Dec 17, 2006)

*1) Anthurium clarinervium (2) Jewels*

As did I, Antone. Then I googled it, and learned from a couple of sources that it was confused with its larger realtive, A .cristallinum. People I know confirm this, saying it may grow as a saxicole between rock fissures, but not as a true epiphyte or lithophtye attached to the surface.

Do you think any of the jewels will tolerate 80s fora couple of months--my tank gets that warm in the summer. I can tell you the primitives don't like it, the broms don't seem to mind, but the aroids and Episcias love it!

Been told to try Macodes petola or Anoe. formosanus, as opposed to a Goodyera or an Anoe. roxburghi.

Nice pics, buddy. :wink: 

G


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## KeroKero (Jun 13, 2004)

Well, I think while most jewel orchids, especially those most common in the trade, are tropical but they all do not have the same care... I do not treat my Goodyera pubescens the same way I treat my Anoe, Ludisia, Macodes, and Sarcoglottis which I grow as tropicals. The Goodyera is native to my area and obviously temperate, and not a good tropical terrarium candidate... 

I've grown my tropical jewels as houseplants using African violet self watering pots with sphagnum moss as the only substrate. It works wonderfully. In a regular pot by themselves they tend to dry out too fast and generally fail with all the moisture fluctuations in their substrate - the self watering pots give them consistent moisture. I've not gotten to try all in vivariums so I'm not able to compare growth, but they tend to seem a little bit happier in the vivariums vs. the pots.

Well drained soil seems to be the key for all these guys in vivariums. They seem to prefer the mixes in the tank that only hold water because the tank is so humid lol. They seem to very much enjoy rambling around cork bark and rocks to find the pockets of leaf litter/sphagnum spots to root. Put in traditional mixes the plants tend to rot out, and in vivariums they tend not to root into those areas, preferring the "drier" substrates... in vivariums the soil substrate that doesn't have much air and holds moisture tends to only grow wet feet plants, and jewels do not like wet feet.... in PDF vivs people tend to think terrestrial means they can take wet feet when they don't realize that terrestrial actually implies a lot of different soil types.... if anything the jewels seem lithophytic and very much a surface creeper...

I don't think the humidity needs of the lowland vs. highland is all that different, but I believe the highland might prefer a little more air movement, and the temps are the main difference.... montane species would be excellent terrestrials in a tank built for montane epiphytic orchids for example. Some of these plants also seem to need rest periods... I know the temperate species do. Temperate to me also means seasons... not just cooler temps. I don't think a tropical montane species should be kept in the same conditions as a temperate species... just kept at cooler temps... and yes, again I'm harping on words, because temperate and montane tropical are two very different climate types.

The biggest problem I've seen with these guys in tank has to do with lighting... they burn easily, especially when not acclimated to higher light conditions. Many people use higher level CPs for their broms, and stick jewels at the bottom, just to have them burn. In these cases I'd either recommend adding the jewels later on after the tank has grown in and much of the light is blocked, or removing the plant period. I use two fluorescent tubes and have accidentally scorched jewels grown under one tube or with ambient room light when I initially put them under... I do not grow them in anything stronger than the fluorescents. They are literally a low light plant that can't handle stronger light, unlike many of our other plants which prefer higher light levels, but will do decently under low light. (and by that I mean two regular fluorescent bulbs max).


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## Groundhog (Dec 17, 2006)

*Harping on Words is Good*



> Some of these plants also seem to need rest periods... I know the temperate species do. Temperate to me also means seasons... not just cooler temps. I don't think a tropical montane species should be kept in the same conditions as a temperate species... just kept at cooler temps... and yes, again I'm harping on words, because temperate and montane tropical are two very different climate types.
> 
> 
> This is an excellent, point, Corey. In fact, why say" temperate to me..." You don't have to--that is part of the correct defintion. This reminds of people who think that African cichlid tanks and brackish tanks are interchangeable, or who don't know/care about the difference between a Sikh and a Muslim...
> ...


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## KeroKero (Jun 13, 2004)

Goodyera in general, especially the tropicals, tend to like it cooler and would probably cook. I don't consider any of that genus to be really good viv candidates. I know one species pops up with viv suppliers, but I think that also has to do with that species being one of the few that is tissue cultured...

One other thing to note about jewel orchids IMO - shipping. I recently got plants from two different sources, shipped in cooler weather (not cold, but cooler than the plants would like if sitting outside for a period). Both boxes contained temperature sensitive plants, but where shipped packaged differently... one in a box with newspaper and a heat pack, the other in an insulated box, no heat back. The plants in the insulated box - a notoriously pain in the ass plant to ship - perfect and happy. The heat pack box ended up with some not very happy jewel orchids (including a A. roxburgii which has already been mentioned to not like higher temps) and one orchid with a significantly burned leaf. Jewel orchids aren't very forgiving in some respects, and burning/high heat is one of those respects. What did I learn? Don't ship them with heat packs. Ship them in insulated boxes, and if they need more protection than that, don't ship them.

It's funny how some plants respond to heat... I left some plants in a growing container (sealed clear rubbermaid) in my car in heat of summer for 3 days accidentally. A few of the plants up and died, and there wasn't anything left but label tags, you could tell they went fast. The ones that survived where HUGE, and the broms were pupping (no pups seen before this), and the episcia were tossing runners. There were a couple Ludisia in the tank, and they were one of the ones that went, so I'm not sure there are any truly heat tolerant jewels. I guess it really depends on the species, how much into the 80s it gets, and how gradual the change. They might take it better with a drier tank...

With heat, I think it can be looked at by how often you'd seen any of the plants deal with just about full sun in the wild... You just wouldn't see jewels in exposed areas, where there are broms that flourish on exposed cliff walls, tops of trees, clamoring to get to sun. In the tropics, true heat and sun seem to go together... the more sunlight, the hotter the spot.


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## KeroKero (Jun 13, 2004)

I've grown a number of temperate plants as houseplants, but it usually involves moving them out doors for part of the year, or moving them into a cold area, or even a fridge. I gave them up due to apartment living (where my only cooling option would be a fridge) but at my parents' it was as easy as putting them in the basement. This cooling period could mean slow to no growth, to drop everything and be an empty pot for a couple months (in which they weren't missed much in the basement). Not all temperates need a huge temp swing... sometimes its just 15 degrees or so. My _G. pubescens_ in the wild would totally die down in the snow, but my "captive" cutting would simply stop growing while in the basement (high 50s, low 60s). Upon being back in the 70s it would grow like mad. When grown as a "tropical" the plant just eventually up and died after a while, likely from lack of a cool period


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## Groundhog (Dec 17, 2006)

*ID*

How the hell do you do "end quote" on this thing?!? 

You know what this dilly needs--a gender designation in the profile. I am afraid that, with some gender neutral/ambiguous nicknames, I may ^&$#$ up and address someone with the wrong pronoun, or ask Antone or Harry, "what do you think he means by____," when the party is actually a she--or vice versa. 

(Not that there is anything wrong with gender ambiguity--but I must say I don't know any shemales--or brothers, for that matter--into dart frogs...)

I thank you guys for helping to clarify some of my questions (don't want to spend $15 on a whim). Must go watch a dumb sci fi movie, and read up on jewel orchids and neos. 

Catch you homies in the am.

G

G


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## Frogtofall (Feb 16, 2006)

*Re: ID*



Groundhog said:


> How the hell do you do "end quote" on this thing?!?
> 
> You know what this dilly needs--a gender designation in the profile. I am afraid that, with some gender neutral/ambiguous nicknames, I may ^&$#$ up and address someone with the wrong pronoun, or ask Antone or Harry, "what do you think he means by____," when the party is actually a she--or vice versa.
> 
> ...


Ya do now. 

I've got a couple of jewels in the open light of a 20 vert. I think them being at the very bottom, they are only getting maybe 800 foot candles of light which should be a little bit under ideal but not enough to kill them.










In this viv...










I also have a Macodes petola on the right and behind the Ludisia I have a Dossinia. Hard to see the others but they are there. As of today, the Macodes is doing the best but the others are not doing "bad" per se, just not as well as the Macodes.


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## harrywitmore (Feb 9, 2004)

I have grown both Goodyera shclectendaliana and pubescens in a warm terrarium for 2 years and they are thriving. Granted it is not like a PDF viv and seldom gets misted but is is warm. No dormant period at all. G pubesacens also grows native on my property and thrives.
Does this mean it will work for everyone. I think you can see that some folks have luck with plants others cannot even keep alive. I have also had Philodendron thrive in water but I would not recommend that same plant be grown that way since in nature that particular species is an epiphyte.
I'm not sure if you are familiar with Tony Avent from Plant Delights Nursery but I will quote him,
" I consider every plant hardy until I have killed it myself...at least three times."

If you have ever seen his place in temperate NC you would understand that you may be surprised how plants adapt to conditions they do not normally grow in. His place looks like a tropical paradise and he does not take plants up and indoors in the winter.

I believe some of the same logic can be applied to terrariums and vivs. I don;t think that is is unethical to experiment so killing a few plants dos not bother me if I do my best.


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## Groundhog (Dec 17, 2006)

*Plant Ethics*

Experimenting is cool--within lines of reason. My gripe the other day was clowns--you know the person who claims to "love" cacti, but has no southernexposure--so they just keep replacing their plants after a year; or the person who gets a baby alligator not thinking about five years hence...

In case I wasn't clear, I was NOT suggesting this about any of you guys  If anything, I know the pdf posse to be rather cautious! 

HARRY--I have seen this myself. My friend Steve--clearly in the Kero Kero school :wink: -- uses pothos extensively in naturalistic vivs (this case Timor monitors). Well I''ll be damned if the pothos did not grow into and UNDER the water with no ill effects! Even variegated a bit! I have heard this can work with Spathiphyllum as well, but never tried it. 

ANTONE--that is the Ludisia discolor 'nigrescens' morph is it not? Is it slow growing even in a viv?

I have heard that Macodes may be easier (more durable and forgiving) than Anoe formosanus. Do you guys agree?

Thanks,

G


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## harrywitmore (Feb 9, 2004)

Funny, my experience is that Ludisia discolor 'nigrascens' may actually grow faster the discolor. But I have not grown it in a terrarium. Macodes petola goes nuts in the terrarium as well as Ludisia discolor var alba. The only Jewel I have had any trouble with is Macodes sanderiana. 
It seems to rot very easy for me. I have only tried it twice so I will again if I can find it for something less than an arm and a leg.


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## Frogtofall (Feb 16, 2006)

So far the L. discolor v. Nigrescens has not budged but its not dying by any means. I have Anoe. formosanus getting ready to bloom in my 35 hex. Its doing great.


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## KeroKero (Jun 13, 2004)

I find it interesting that the two jewels listed as doing the best - Macodes petola and Ludisia var. alba - are the greenest jewels produced that would do well in a tank... where the darker variations don't do as well... not bad but not great either... is it due to light levels? Green better at dealing with light... or better with dealing with lower light levels... something like that?

I'd be interested in getting a list of what the temperature and light level preferences, as well as drainage factor (how some rot out more than others). With some of the rarer species becoming more available (if you're willing to pay) I'm interested in their more specific care, and have yet to find this info. For that matter, I've not found a book on jewel orchids specifically that would help me out, and orchid books tend to not go into detail if they mention jewels at all... if someone knows a "definitive text" worth the money, please let me know.

Anyone worked with _Sarcoglottis_? I recently received _Sarcoglottis sceptrodes_ #2 from Tropiflora, but know very little other than it can be grown tropically like other tropical jewels (not much help). It seems to be able to take it drier than most of the other jewels with less ill effects which makes me wonder how likely it would be to rot out... Its a gorgeous orchid that tends more towards the _Goodyera_ type jewel and is a nice change of pace from the others I have. 


Harry, after reading your post I think the _G. pubescens_ went out because I kept it a little too "tropical" for too long... it did ok for a while but I think I should have at least given it a drier rest or something.


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## Frogtofall (Feb 16, 2006)

I dunno, I've not had any troubles with the darker folaige jewels in terraria, they just don't seem to grow as fast as Macodes petola. My Anoe. formosanus grew really slow at first and then all of a sudden took off. Maybe it needed some time to grow stronger roots or something.

Even though Corybas aren't jewel orchids, the tropical species would make awesome terrarium candidates. They like damp feet and low light. Too bad you don't see them very much if at all.


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## Groundhog (Dec 17, 2006)

*Discolor plants and light*

Corey,

I recently read something fascinating in Ruth Kiew, "Begonias of Peninsular Malaysia" (yeah, between this and C-Span, I pick ALL the hobbies that endear me to the skirts  )

The newest thinking among many botanists is that discolor leaves are not for low light; rather they function as a protection mechanism against sudden exposure to blasts of high light.

Think about it; a lot of discolor plants live in disturbed or edge-zone areas among second growth. A banana or palm get knocked down and bang, exposure to more sun. While the leaves of the brom, begonia or codanthe may blanch, the plant will stay alive long enough for the new growth to come in thicker and redder.

I think this a very interesting hypothesis. Btw, if any of you have access to this book, check it out. The photos of begonias growing as epiphytes or lithophytes are mouth-watering (and some with Jewel orchids!)

Thanks for responding to my thread, guys. I am learning a lot, and hope others find it helpful.

G


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## harrywitmore (Feb 9, 2004)

Very interesting. But, think about it. Many plants turn a dark red when exposed to too much light. So this would make sense (to me anyway). :roll:


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## Groundhog (Dec 17, 2006)

*Happy Holidays!*

A Merry X-mas and Happy Chanukak to all my new (and old) terrarium friends!


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## Groundhog (Dec 17, 2006)

*Jewel Orchids in a Herp Viv--Help, Antone, Chris, KeroKero;!*

Greetings Oh Great and Wise Froggers:

I write to ask a question about jewel orchids and temperature tolerance. While most plants in my rainforest terrarium do quite well, I am not having long-term success with jewels. I ask because these are not cheap, and if I try again I want to make the most rational selection. I have narrowed it down to two problems:

1) Moisture--substrate too damp? The substrate, a coir/orchid bark/tree fern fiber mix is certainly mosit but not sodden. I thought that these guys don't want/need to periodically dry out, which leads me to

2) Temperature--I allow the tank to follow seasonal patterns, meaning it is cool now, "intermediate/warm" in Spring/Fall, Warm/Hot in the Summer. As such, there are seasonal growth patterns! E.g., the Selaginella dies back in the summer, but the aroids grow well; the Episcia slows now, but the mosses thrive, etc; Here are the averages: 

Winter: 70-75 day, 60-65 night
Spring/Fall: 75-80 day, 65-70 night
Summer: 85-90 day, 75-80 night

Or to put it another way, it might look like:

Jan 15: 71 day, 63 night, 
April 15: 77 day, 68 night
Aug 15: 88 day, 78 night
November 15: 75 day, 67 night

I think that you get the idea--and you wil notice that, yes, the summer nights can actually be warmer than the winter days! I find that the herps in the tank, and most of the plants, seem to adapt well to the seasonal changes.

But, as you might surmise, not the Jewels! When I tried a Goodyera, it died in the summer; when I tried a Macodes, it died in the winter! Are there any that can tolerate this (wide) range? WHICH WOULD YOU BET ON: a lowland species tolerating the cool winter nights OR an upland species tolerating the warm summer nights? Or shal I steer my ship away from jewels?

Your thoughts/opinion on this would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

The Mighty Groundhog
Lord of the Epiphytes


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## Tim F (Jan 27, 2006)

A couple of my vivs are under basic 48 in. shop lights from HD, and my L. discolors look like friggn’ sequoias! I cut them back periodically and they sprout back pretty quickly and in new places, so I’ve got a lot of them in pots too (they’re easy to root from cuttings). But they grow twice as fast in the vivs. I removed an overgrown fern last weekend and there were even a bunch of tiny L.ds there! This works for me:

-I do not use any soil at all. Only ls sphagnum on top of natural gravel for drainage. 
-The moss is always damp, but never wet. 
-Frog poop and uneaten bugs for fert. Nothing else.
-Temps in the mid 70’s, during the day, perhaps a 10 degree drop a night – not really sure
-80-90% humidity. 
-Other than the little ones that were growing under the fern, there’s no shade where these are growing. They form the canopy in their areas of their vivs. The shops lights are not intense enough to burn them when they reach the top of a standard 55 gal.

If they do not fall over and begin to roam, I have to cut them when they spike. Otherwise, I'm looking at a 24in plants or even taller! Who knew? When I started this, I thought jewel meant little. Anyway, they'll root and bloom if you cut them in spike.

For me, L.d. nigrens is a very slow grower under these same conditions. 

I also have M. petola, and it grows vigorously under these conditions, although the best looking ones are growing at the bottom of viv that’s 24in.tall and has both a shop light AND a cp. Initially, I did this because I cared more about having screaming red broms (it worked), and blooming “truly” epiphytic orchids. But the M.ps took off. At one point, they got mowed down by some slugs (strange because I typically soap,water, and mildly bleach EVERYTHING before it goes into a viv). But they came back thicker and more heavily branched. Talk about forgiving! Now I’m fearless when I thin these guys out. They’re also really easy to root in moss.

I guess the other thing that really works for me is not paying them too much attention. I had an L.d. die off and I just hacked it off at the moss level, thinking that maybe the decomp. would make good springtail grub. But after a few months there were new sprouts! So I might suggest not removing your plants altogether if they appear not to make it.

Hope this helps!

T.


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## KeroKero (Jun 13, 2004)

Jewel orchids - once established and if they like your conditions - are very forgiving! In tank is a whole different world than out of tank (which they grow slower, tend to have more issues, and can just be an all around pain). I've had good luck growing them out of tank in sphagnum moss only in an african violet self watering pot... had some Anoe. chapaensis go nuts. I dropped a book on it accidentally (not something you want to do with a $16+ plant!) and snapped a stem in half... just stuck the stem in another part of the moss in the pot. It worked so well, I snapped the other stem in half as well, so now I have a very large, full pot of the stuff!

As I've only just recently expanded my collection, I can't really talk from too much experience, but at this point I have to admit that Macodes petola and L. discolor 'Alba' are ridiculous in vivariums. After only a few weeks in a grow tank, I've got an 'Alba' that is not only in spike, but also sending out new stems. It'd too tall for the tank, so I'll likely remove it to a self watering pot while its in bloom, but DAMN. 

Is there any way we can get specific temp needs for these plants? I know it ranges per species... I'd really like to do a write up for these for the board, but still seem to be lacking a lot of solid info.

Also... recently got a Sarcoglottis sceptrodes #2... its doing ok (didn't do so well outside a grow tank, doing much better after the move) but I've found absolutely NOTHING on this genus, much less the species... other than its not considered a "true" jewel orchid, tho it has rather pretty leaves.


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## Tim F (Jan 27, 2006)

I received a L. discolor 'Alba' for T &C Terrariumslast month. It's not in a viv yet though. Two main plants (one just beginng to spike) and several sprouts in a 4" pot w/ moss. I was very impressed! Hopefully I'll find it to be an easy grower too.


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## Tim F (Jan 27, 2006)

Oops. Vendor feedback. My appologies if you have to move this.


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## KeroKero (Jun 13, 2004)

Figures I'd find info on eBay for the plant...

"At maturity the plant is about 1-2 ft. wide when full grown. Can be grown in the ground in warm climates and in pots in cooler climates. Full shade and lots of water. Blooms in the spring time with a 2 ft. tall flower spike that protrudes out of the center of the plant like a bromeliad and has upwards of 20 blooms on one spike."

Info taken from this eBay auction.


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## Groundhog (Dec 17, 2006)

*Terrestrial Orchid Forum url*

Hey Guys--

there is a terrestrial orchid forum at http://www.terrorchid.proboards27.com

Shall we go check it out? It may have some info on Corey's Sarcoglottis!

Btw, Corey, where did you get it?


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## KeroKero (Jun 13, 2004)

"this eBay auction" in the above post is a link to an eBay auction for the same species that I have... tho mine has an additional "#2" on it's tag and I'm unsure of the significance of that...

I checked around that link already, and Sarcoglottis was not listed on the site as being a terrestrial orchid genus... I know its not technically a jewel orchid, but I know its considered an orchid... I just cannot find anything in online searches beyond the genus listed as an orchid genus. Me coming across that auction with info was pretty coincidental... I haven't checked my favorite sellers list in months, and just decided to look on there randomly since I had time...


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