# heating pad problems?



## mjhough (Oct 25, 2012)

Hey my first post been reading for awhile now. Currently have a azurues and two powder blue tincs.. they all thrive together so please no negative comments on housing different species together. Have an extra tank if needed. 

Anyways after doing some searching can't really find anything other than people saying heating pads aren't the best solution. I don't have a false bottom.. layers of lava rock with ABG mix.. just want to find put of they really do crack the glass. One thread said he's had his for years with no problem. More input would be great. Just looking for a temp rise of a few degrees. 69 during the day I'd like to get it to 73 -74.. 

Thanks for looking


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## mjhough (Oct 25, 2012)

Forgot to add its a 40 gal breeder was planning on using a 5-10 gal heating pad to be on the safe side


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## Raptor22 (Nov 23, 2012)

In my experience with a 5-10 gal zoomed heating pad on a 6.5 g lizard tank, it didn't do much other than heat the substrate and the air under the tank. The ambient temp in the tank went up a bit, but no more than 2-3 degrees fahrenheit. I imagine that, in a 40 gallon frog tank, it would be totally ineffective.

I would look at getting a heat lamp and thermostat.


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## hypnoticaquatic (Dec 19, 2012)

id say you would have better luck with one of these Seedling Heat Mat 20" x 20" ~ 45W using the temp controler you can raise it up to get the heat radiation that you would be wanting, id place it in the water as water holds heat and will transfer it to the glass and substrate, but it really is going to depend on the ambient room temp as glass is NOT a good insulator, if that isnt a solution you want you might look into using some 1/4 foam insulation on the bottom/sides/top to act as a blanket for the cold. 

so u need to know the ambient room temp vs what your trying to get it to, then how you want to heat it heat the cage, heat the room? and if you want/can insulate to minimize heat loss. remember that there are many ways to skin a cat but not all will work best for your situation so you will have to decide. and put some input what u like/dislike so about each so other can guide you even more


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## mjhough (Oct 25, 2012)

Ambient temp in room is usually 70°

Currently have a 18" t8 light for plants but its placed above the glass so doesn't do much for heating.. screen top underneath glass. Ill try placing light so its just over the screen. Might screw with the humidity im guessing... ill most likely purchase a oil heating unit for the room. After reading a thread I've decided to not go with the under tank heater unless I put it on a non viewing side and hide it with plants.. 

Thanks for the advice guys


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## Pumilo (Sep 4, 2010)

I work with glass for a living for over 20 years now. Please keep in mind that just because people may post experience with trying this, and the glass did not break, does not mean that yours won't break.
Heat breaks glass all the time. I've seen many threads on here about people breaking their tops with a hot lamp. I've replaced an estimated 200 windows that were broken from heat and nothing more. My son's snake viv broke with an under-tank heater.
Heat DOES break glass. I go into this in more detail in this thread http://www.dendroboard.com/forum/parts-construction/78335-under-tank-heater-placement.html
It's a good thread for you to check out.


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## hypnoticaquatic (Dec 19, 2012)

pum is dead on its easy with the spot light heat lamps to warm a area of the glass while the rest isnt up to that temp to hot or cold to fast will always crack glass. 

you can still do the heat mats but i highly suggest to get one that can be placed inside the viv so it can heat up the water below to allow the tank to slowly get to that tempature, remember water transfers heat pretty quickly which allows the glass to warm up without cracking(very unlikely!!) with a heat mat that is temp controled and a ambient temp of 70º. if you didnt want it even touching the glass you could have it sit on the all rocks then just use the coco on top as the one i showed u is waterproof.

pumilo im currious exactly why it broke though, no airflow,cold tank on startup, taped to glass,overheat/malfunction etc. im sure u know being as glazier that some/more issues are user error or improper use of said product. easy example if someone using the heat lamp raised it off the glass to allow for some airflow it would greatly reduce the heat transfer rate and allow the glass to come up to temp befor it reached its cracking temp. ps where in colo/denver u at pum?


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## mjhough (Oct 25, 2012)

Yes I agree he seems to be hard headed on it but for good reasons. It seems a lot of people who say no on them are the same way. I think ill try it on a extra tank see of it cracks or not but good air flow should reduce the chance significantly.

Wanted to use the smaller pad because I don't need to raise the temps to much also thought it'd be a good aid for evaporation.. im assuming the right size would heat the tank up quite a bit more than what I need?? If I need I can get a underwater heating pad would rather not tear the tank up though.


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## hypnoticaquatic (Dec 19, 2012)

well thats the thing with some heat pads are not waterproof so they must be outside of the tank and some dont have any or do have poor temp regulation. if u look at the link i posted it can be dialed in to what temp u need it might take a little higher temp to radiate through everything or just might need more time kinda hard to say as every tank is different. there are smaller sizes also just take a look if its not what your looking for then dont stress get what works for you! i cant say that enough. remember listen and take advice but make your own decisions. i still stand that i think the best way is to put that type of heater not on the bottom but on top of the falsebottom/substrate befor the coco(but its a pita with a established tank)

remember this is the same idea as a in tank aquarium heater, which can be used but dont use any glass heaters with any kind of substrate around it, i have seen what one of those explosions can do. if you want that type of heater for the water then get a titanium heater, even then u dont want any type of substrate on it/touching it. and i wouldnt go over board on the wattage its better to have it on longer than to heat up faster, it will also last longer to due to how many contacts it makes. hope that gave ya some ideas to think about so u can make a more informed decision.


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## frograck (May 1, 2005)

If you want to insulate the sides and part of the top of your tank, use this...

Shop Reflectix 25-ft x 24-in Radiant Barrier at Lowes.com

It's better than styrofoam, easy to work with, and less bulky.


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## mjhough (Oct 25, 2012)

Ill actually be ordering a couple of those seedling mats for other purposes will see how they work like I said I don't want to tear the tank up. It'll be the last resort. Seems like my t-8 strip is doing the trick. 

Thanks for the link ill have to pick some of that up. Looks fairly easy and helpful.


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## Ed (Sep 19, 2004)

fair warning, the none of the seedling heat mats are made to deal with the weight that the sides of the tanks place on the mat or it's cords.. (the same is true of heat pads since they are not made to go under heavy terraria). This is a fire hazard. 

There is a significant risk to the glass cracking. The first potential issue is from the change in the weight distribution from the mat and/or it's cord. This creates stress spots. 
The second potential issue is due to the uneven heating and cooling of the glass. In an enclosure with water over the mat location, you get water currents transferring the heat from the interior surface of the glass. This creates uneven temperature distribution not only between the inside and outside of the glass but along the surfac of the glass. These are not insignificant particularly when accompanied by other stresses. 
This is very diffferent than a properly sized an installed aquarium heater inside a body of water. The water heaters are held away from the glass and are subject to much more efficient water circulation which reduces the stress on the glass.... 

I would suggest making sure your renter's or homeowner's policy covers that kind of water damage as a precaution. 

Some comments 

Ed


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## mjhough (Oct 25, 2012)

Sorry ed you must be thinking I have gallons and gallons of water in my tank. I completely understand what you're saying but I will not be placing the mat underneath the tank I also have fish tanks so im well aware they do not come in contact with the glass. Thanks for the input


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## Pumilo (Sep 4, 2010)

mjhough said:


> Yes I agree he seems to be hard headed on it...


Hard headed? Me? Never heard that before.


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## Pumilo (Sep 4, 2010)

Seriously though, if presenting the facts is considered hard headed, then yes I am. (actually I'll freely admit to being hard headed...but not this time.)
I simply presented the facts. Heat can crack glass. I provided a link to a thread that supplied anecdotal evidence and cited examples. The thread also discussed alternative methods. I pointed out that even though heat CAN crack glass, does not mean that it WILL crack glass.

Then I left you with the information, so that you can make your own, informed choice.


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## pdfCrazy (Feb 28, 2012)

One of the most effective ways I've found of for warming a tank thats a little chill is lighting. And I dont mean a heat lamp or even ANY incandesent bulb. On one of my large vivs, I use power compact lighting. In the summer months, this light raises the temp in the tank enought that I have a fan suspended above the tank to keep the viv an appropriate temp. In the winter, this light keep the tank a nice even 75-76.


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