# Constructing a European type Vivarium Step by Step



## Darryl

I have had a few requests concerning the method of construction regarding a european type front opening viv. So I have put together the follow detailed instructions, as one of my fellow british froggers said, this is the idiots guide to constructing a viv.

I hope that you will find these useful.
I post each new section as I complete typing and doing the drawings.

This will be available in PDF format when complete.


*DIY Glass Open Front Vivarium
By Darryl Le Grange*

Introduction to Building Your Own Vivarium
If you want to try, building an open front vivarium from scratch, you will find this a challenge and satisfying as well. I have attempted to try and document this process as accurately as possible, from tips, materials list, pre-assembly instructions, and complete step-by-step directions on how to construct an open front vivarium from 4 mm glass. 

Tips on Working with Glass
•	Plan ahead: Prepare good schematic drawings, before cutting the glass. >> See Cut Size Calculator
•	Insure a correct fit by using accurate measurements. 
•	I construct my vivariums with the two side pieces of glass and the back piece to fit on the outside of the base and the front door strut set on top of the bottom base sheet of glass. >> See Panel Placements Diagram 
•	Have a professional glazier cut and prepare your glass if you do not feel comfortable with cutting glass. 
•	Lightly rubbing down all the edges on the newly cut glass, with the emery cloth helps prevent small chips and you cutting yourself.)
•	If at any time during construction you have trouble with the tape not sticking to the glass, just clean the area with some acetone on a paper towel and try again
•	Use a glass pencil or a Marker pen to note the orientation on each piece of glass.
•	Drill any holes for drainage and misting systems before assembly
Materials List 
The glass components consist of 1 bottom, 1 back, and 2 sides, 2 top pieces of glass, 1 door strut, 1 retaining lip and 2 doors. (Optional – 1 False Base)

You will also need the following items to construct your vivarium. 
•	Sturdy, flat and non-abrasive surface to work on
•	Single edged razor blades
•	Acetone or methylated spirits
•	A non-toxic 100% silicone sealant (Aquarium Grade) 
•	A roll of paper towels. 
•	A Glass pencil or marker pen. 
•	A roll of duct tape or a good quality masking tape
•	Emery cloth or silicone carbide sandpaper.
•	“E” profiled plastic (4mm) strips (Door Channels)
•	“L” profiled plastic angle strips
•	Fine Stainless Steel Mesh
•	Small block of natural bees wax 
•	Good pair of kitchen scissors
•	Thin latex or similar gloves
•	Small Right-Angle or Engineers square
•	1x Large wooden Block or cloth covered Brick
•	Small amount of dishwashing soap and water
•	Small Polystyrene blocks (for optional False Base)

Pre-Assembly Preparations
•	The door strut has an arch cut out of it, you can cut this free-hand or use a template, otherwise have this piece of glass cut by your local glazier.
•	Once the pieces of glass are cut, using the emery cloth or silicone carbide sandpaper, buff all the raw edges of the glass just enough to take off the sharpness. 
•	Clean all the glass pieces joint areas and edges (any area where silicone will be applied) with acetone or methylated spirits.
•	Cut strips of tape, at least 16 – 18 pieces, about 120mm long. Stick these to a clean surface, which the tape won't stick too much to, with at least half of the tape hanging freely. If you require more tape, cut these before installing another piece. 
BEFORE you start to assemble your vivarium, it is important to know in what sequence the glass sheet are assembled. 

The sequence is as follows:
1.	Base
2.	Back
3.	Left Side
4.	Inside Retaining Lip
5.	Door Strut
6.	False Base (Optional)
7.	Right Side
8.	Top “Back”
9.	Top “Front”
10.	Stainless Steel Mesh
11.	Plastic Angle
12.	Top Vent retainer strips
13.	Door Channels
14.	Doors
If you are going to install the optional false bottom, you can cut an arch (See Door Strut) in the bottom of the back piece, to allow access under the false base.
As each piece of glass is installed, you will need to apply a thin and adequate line of silicone to each inside edges of sheets that are being joined.
DO NOT wipe off any excess silicone that might squeeze to the outside edges of the glass. This can be cleaned up or trimmed later on, once the silicone has fully cured.
Step-by-Step Assembly Instructions
Prepare for assembly, by arranging your glass pieces in the order that you will need them and all other tools and materials within easy and comfortable reach. Make sure you know what the orientation of each piece is (use a marker to write on each piece) N.B. Keep all writing and marking at least 25mm from edges to be siliconed.
Example:









Ensure that your work surface is flat, sturdy, non-abrasive and that you have sufficient room, so that you can easily reach everywhere on the vivarium, once you start working.
1. BASE 
•	Use a marker pen to draw a parallel line, 45mm from the front edge of the base.
•	Then turn the base piece over, so that this line is now on the underside.











•	Stick X6 pieces of tape on the underside of the base, with ½ of the tape still showing. (x2 pieces on the back edge and x2 pieces on each side edge), the sticky side should now be facing up.












2. BACK
•	Have the block of wood or cloth covered brick ready to support the back piece of glass.
•	Apply a thin but sufficient bead of silicon along the bottom inside edge of the back piece.










•	Carefully align the back piece to the outside back edge of the base.
•	Press the back with a light, but firm pressure to bed it into the silicon.
•	Use the Block or brick to support the back in the upright position.
•	Use the Right angle or Square to check that the two pieces of glass are at right angles to each other.
•	Fold the x2 pieces of tape upwards and stick them to the back; this will assist in keeping everything in the correct place.


















Tip: This step is much easier to do with an assistant to hold the front glass pane upright and in place while you complete installation of the first side piece in the next step.



3. SIDE (Left-Hand)
•	Apply a thin but sufficient bead of silicon along the bottom and back inside edges of the side piece.










•	Carefully align the side piece to the outside side edges of the base and back.
•	Press the side piece with a light, but firm pressure to bed it into the silicon.
•	Fold the x2 pieces of tape upwards and stick them to the side; this will assist in keeping everything in the correct place.
•	Use x2 pieces of tape and stick them across the back and side joint, this will assist in keeping everything in the correct place and in the upright position.












4.	INSIDE RETAINING LIP
•	Apply a thin but sufficient bead of silicon along the bottom and left hand edges of the retaining lip piece.










•	Carefully align the retaining piece to the line drawn on the underside of the base.
•	The retaining piece should be placed just behind the line and against the left side piece.
•	Press the piece with a light, but firm pressure to bed it into the silicon.
•	Use the Right-angle or Square to check that the retraining piece is at right angles to the base.






















5. DOOR STRUT
•	Apply a thin but sufficient bead of silicon along the bottom and left hand edges of the door strut.










•	Carefully align the door strut to the top front edge of the base.
•	The door strut should be placed on the base front edge and against the left side piece inside front edge.
•	Press the piece with a light, but firm pressure to bed it into the silicon.




















6. SIDE (Right-Hand)
•	Apply a thin but sufficient bead of silicon along the side edges of the Door Strut and the retaining lip pieces.










•	Apply a thin but sufficient bead of silicon along the bottom and back inside edges of the side piece. 










•	Carefully align the side piece to the outside side edges of the base and back.
•	Press the side piece with a light, but firm pressure to bed it into the silicon.
•	Fold the x2 pieces of tape upwards and stick them to the side; this will assist in keeping everything in the correct place.
•	Use x2 pieces of tape and stick them across the back and side joint, this will assist in keeping everything in the correct place and in the upright position.












7. With most of the pieces in place and the vivarium constructed, run an adequate solid line of silicone into the joint areas on the inside, then run your finger over the silicone from one end to the other of each seam, preferably in one continuous motion, to smooth the silicone down and force it into the joint areas.
Tip: Dip your finger into a little water and dishwashing soap, before smoothing down the joints. (10 drops of soap in a glass of water)


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## Darryl

8.	TOP “BACK”
•	Apply a thin but sufficient bead of silicon along the back and side bottom edges of the top-back piece.










•	Carefully align the top-back piece to the top edges of the base and sides.
•	Press the top-back piece with a light, but firm pressure to bed it into the silicon.
•	Use x2 pieces of tape and stick them across the back and top joint, this will assist in keeping everything in the correct place.
•	Use x2 pieces of tape and stick them across the side and top joints, this will assist in keeping everything in the correct place.














9.	TOP “FRONT”
•	Apply a thin but sufficient bead of silicon along the side bottom edges of the top-front piece.










•	Carefully align the top-front piece to the top edges of the sides.
•	Press the top-front piece with a light, but firm pressure to bed it into the silicon.
•	Use x2 pieces of tape on each side and stick them across the side and top joints; this will assist in keeping everything in the correct place.













10.	With last two pieces in place, run an adequate solid line of silicone into these last few joint on the inside and then run your finger over the silicone from one end to the other of each seam, preferably in one continuous motion, to smooth the silicone down and force it into the joint areas.
Tip: Dip your finger into a little water and dishwashing soap, before smoothing down the joints. (10 drops of soap in a glass of water)

11.	*Allow the silicone to cure for 24 hours.*


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## Mywebbedtoes

This is outstanding! Thanks for posting it!!


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## Darryl

BOTTOM VENT
•	Measure the distance on the inside of the left and right sides above the door strut.
•	Repeat this for the above the retaining lip.










•	Now cut two sections of the “L” shaped profile to fit each of section.


















•	Measure the distance from the front of the door strut to the back of the retaining lip, on the left-hand side.
•	Repeat this for the right-hand side.










These measurements are used to determine final size of the Stainless Steel mesh for the vent to the correct size.










•	Use masking tape to cover both sides of the stainless steel mesh (stick this wider than your measurements)
•	Use a marker pen to draw out your measurements on the tape.
•	Cut along these lines.
Tip: By using the masking tape, it makes it easier to draw lines in the mesh. The masking tape also reduces stray stainless steel wire splinters flying about or puncturing your hands. The finished cut is a lot neater as well.


•	Check that the newly cut mesh fits over the retaining lip and door strut.
•	Make any adjustments if required.










•	Apply a thin but sufficient bead of silicon along the top edges of both the retaining lip and the door strut.










•	Place the stainless steel mesh back into its correct position.
•	The “L” profile sections are now placed over the edges 
•	Press the “L” profile sections with a light, but firm pressure to bed them and the stainless steel mesh into the silicon.










•	Use x6 pieces of tape and stick them across the top and down the sides of the strut and lip, this will assist in keeping everything in the correct place.


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## chuckpowell

Darryl,

Outstanding post. I've always admired European vivarium, but I'm not talented enough to make them. I never do this but thanks for the post. I wish I was still doing the ADG Newsletter, I'd have you do an article for it. 

Best,

Chuck


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## qiksilver5

Thanks for that, I've been working on plans for one of those lately, and it's nice to see I was correct in most of my guessing, and not only that, but many questions were answered. Great post. Thanks again. The one question I have is did you just not do the top vent? Or do we have to wait for the next installment.


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## Darryl

qiksilver5 said:


> Or do we have to wait for the next installment.


I am currently doing the drawings and script for the next section. I will go right through the entire process, to the point of having a complete viv, inlcuding the sliding front doors, top vent and "optional" false sloped base.


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## Darryl

13.	TOP VENT (PART 1)
•	Measure the width of the top gap on the inside of the left and right sides.










•	Measure the length of the top gap on the outside of the left and right sides.












These measurements are used to determine the final size of the Stainless Steel mesh for the vent.










•	The total width of the mesh for the top vent should be the width of the gap, plus 20mm. 
•	This will give an additional 10mm flange on each long edge, secure the mesh to the top of the viv.
•	The total length of the mesh is equal to the total outside width of the viv. 










•	The four corners are cut to allow proper placement.
•	These notches are 10mm x the width of the glass used for the sides.










Tip: By using the masking tape, it makes it easier to draw lines in the mesh. The masking tape also reduces stray stainless steel wire splinters flying about or puncturing your hands. The finished cut is a lot neater as well.
1.	Use masking tape to cover both sides of the stainless steel mesh (stick this wider than your measurements)
2.	Use a marker pen to draw out your measurements on the tape.
3.	Cut along these lines.
4.	Use masking tape to cover both sides of the stainless steel mesh (stick this wider than your measurements)

•	Now cut two sections of the “L” shaped profile to fit each of section.


















•	Check that the newly cut mesh fits over the retaining lip and door strut.
•	The small tabs on the ends of the mesh sit on top of the sides and the 10mm flanges, fit under the top pieces of the viv.
•	Make any adjustments if required.



•	Apply a thin but sufficient bead of silicon along the top edges of both the retaining lip and the door strut.










•	Place the stainless steel mesh back into its correct position.
•	The “L” profile sections are now placed over the edges 
•	Press the “L” profile sections with a light, but firm pressure to bed them and the stainless steel mesh into the silicon.










•	Use a pieces of tape and stick them across the underside of the mesh and top peices of glass, this will prevent the mesh from sagging while the silicon is curing on the edge strips.












14.	Allow the silicone to cure for 24 hours.


15.	HALFWAY
•	Remove all the tape.
•	All that is left to do is the 2nd part of the top vent and the installation of the sliding doors.


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## roberthvalera

So helpful thanks for this.


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## MJ

Fantastic stuff Darryl me old china! made this a sticky! superb post!


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## MajorNickmo

As a total Newbie who just spent a bundle buyin' a pre-made viv, I'm really excited to see this finished...I'm pretty sure I can handle this


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## Darryl

16.	TOP VENT (PART 2)

•	Carefully turn the viv upside down.











•	Measure the width of the top of the viv, inside the sides.











•	Cut x2 strips of 2mm glass, 15mm wide.
•	The length should be just short of the top inside measurement.











•	Apply a bead of silicon along the centre of each strip.











•	Place the two strips (silicon side down) over the edges of the stainless steel mesh.
•	Align the edges of the strips with the edges of the top vent of the viv.











•	Press the two strips with a light, but firm pressure to bed them and the stainless steel mesh into the silicon
•	Place a block or Cloth covered brick over the strips to weight them down.

17.	Allow the silicone to cure for 4 hours.

These strips seal and protect the edges of the stainless steel mesh on the top mesh











18.	DOORS (Tracks)
This stage requires two different types of “E” profile.
1.	Bottom Profile (Shallow).
2.	Top Profile (Deep), this is about twice as deep as the bottom profile.
The profile you use should match the thickness of glass, that you are going to use for the doors.











•	Measure and cut a length of top (deeper) profile to fit under the top inside of the front of the viv.











•	Check that the newly cut top profile fits in the top front of the viv, with abot a 1mm play on eack side.
•	Make any adjustments if required.
•	Apply a bead of silicon along the centre of the top profile.











•	Carefully align the top track profile to the bottom front edge of the top and sides.



















•	Press the profile with a light, but firm pressure to bed it into the silicon.


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## Riley

Excellent posts Darryl! I have a few older tanks I'm going to break down and use to make a few of these for sure. If anyone else in the US is looking for E-profiles to make one check this out Brunner - aluminum channel, extruded aluminum angle, anodized aluminum shapes, aluminum pipe, bar, tube, square tubing connector,aluminum channel, extruded aluminum angle, anodized aluminum shapes, aluminum pipe, bar, tube, square tubing connector, a. I haven't had any luck finding these locally.


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## housevibe7

First of all I have to say this tutorial is amazing! THanks so much.

Ok, maybe this is coming but how do you froglet and ff proof the door? Obviously there will be a gap in between the two pieces of glass.


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## Darryl

My post below:

http://www.dendroboard.com/forum/parts-construction/32548-silicon-gasket-between-sliding-doors.html


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## housevibe7

You know I had read that before but had completely forgotten about it. Thanks. Have you ever had a problem with the silicone eventually shearing off from the constant back and forth?


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## Darryl

housevibe7 said:


> You know I had read that before but had completely forgotten about it. Thanks. Have you ever had a problem with the silicone eventually shearing off from the constant back and forth?


Not as yet, If you read the the orginal post, there is a very small gap between the gasket and the front glass. So there should be no significant friction on the gaskett to shear it off , even over a long period of use.


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## kwazarr

Awesome thread and really nice design! I'm happy that you decided to post up such details on here! I do have a couple of questions for you though:

1. Will the ventilation through the tank be done by way of fans or will it be more of a passive ventilation design?

2. Do you have a plan for dealing with the water that will eventually drip down through the front ventilation screen and out through the door strut?

Ross.


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## nish07

The point of the viv is to keep air flowing through that bottom vent and out the top one due to the heated air in the viv from the lights. Another person has put a heating cord under the vent section to further heat the air there and cause it to rise through the vent but that's not completely necessary. The air through the vent keeps the front glass clear of condensation so only mist should drip through. It probably wouldn't be much especially with the constant air flow.

-Nish


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## Darryl

20.	BOTTOM TRACK
•	Measure and cut a length of bottom (shallower) profile to fit on-top “L” profile of the door strut, in the front of the viv.










•	Check that the newly cut bottom profile fits, with about a 1mm play on each side.
•	Make any adjustments if required.
•	Apply a bead of silicon along the centre of the front “L” profile above the door strut.










•	Carefully align the bottom track profile to the front edge of the sides.










•	Press the profile with a light, but firm pressure to bed it into the silicon.

21.	Allow the silicone to cure for 4 -6 hours before trying to fit the doors.




22.	DOORS
To work out the dimensions of the sliding doors, the following measurement are required to be taklen.
1.	The internal width of the viv at the front.










2.	The height between the top and bottom tracks.










3.	The depth of the top track.











•	Calculating the width if the two sliding doors:
1.	Divide the internal width by 2.
2.	Add 5mm to the above result.
3.	The final result is the width measurement for each of the two sliding doors
The 5mm added to each door, result in the overlap, when the doors are placed in the tracks.

•	Calculating the height if the two sliding doors:
1.	Add the depth of the top track and the height between the top and bottom tracks.
2.	Subtract 2mm to the above result.
3.	The final result is the height measurement for each of the two sliding doors
The 2mm deduction allows just enough clearance when lifting the doors in and out of the tracks.





23.	FITTING THE DOORS

•	Before fitting the doors, make sure that all the edges have been rubbed down properly.
•	Pay a little more attention to the corners of each door, ensure that they are rounded off and smooth.
•	Take a small block of pure bees wax and lightly rub it along the top and bottom edges of each door.
•	Check that there are no obstructions in the tracks.

The doors are fitted in a sequence; this sequence is used in reverse when you want to remove the doors.
A.	Hold the First door by the sides.
B.	Insert the top edges into the top track channel furthest from the front.
C.	Lightly push the door all the way, up into the track.









D.	Gently swing the bottom of the door over bottom track.
E.	The door should just clear the bottom track.









F.	Position the door over the furthest channel in the bottom track.
G.	Carefully lower the door in the channel.









H.	The door should now sit in the both the top and bottom track and slide side to side.










Repeat the above steps to insert the other door into the channel closest to the front.











To remove the doors, this process is followed in reverse.



24. At this stage you have a complete working viv.

25.	But there are a few additions that can be made to improve the ways that the doors seal.

26.	DOOR SIDE CHANNELS

27.	DOOR OVERLAP GASKET


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## S2H5287

This is an awesome DIY, but does anyone have any idea how much it would cost to make one of these?


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## m4dc4t

S2H5287 said:


> This is an awesome DIY, but does anyone have any idea how much it would cost to make one of these?


In Dallas, TX I was quoted a high of 230, but I know I a place I could get it for about 180! Uhhh, that is for the glass that is! 1/4".


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## Invert

Great looking instructions! What program did you use for these models?


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## Darryl

I do not know what the cost of the glass is in the States, but here in the UK, I can build a 18" x 18" x 18", for about £70.00 ($140.00)

I used Google Sketchup, to do the drawings, It is a easy piece of software to get to grips with, for designing.


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## S2H5287

Cool, thanks for the replies on the cost question.


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## Darryl

After many requests, I have decided to produce the PDF document of the construction up to this point.
All the other additions will be in the form of an supplimental PDF Document.

If you ask really nicely I may consider emailing a copy...


Darryl


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## boastud

awsome, love it


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## lessthantito

great thread perfect for the DIY'ers that love the euro style tanks


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## Darryl

*Optional False Base Instructions*

This is assembly instructions for a sloping false base, in a European style vivarium.

There are two versions of the back of the vivarium when installing a false base: Standard solid back or arched cut-out back.










The standard solid back will create a dead space under the false bottom, whereas by using a back with a arched cut-out, you can access the space under the false base. Having access to this area allows you to make use of the space, i.e. installing a heat mat and cleaning.

Construction of the vivarium will follow steps 1-5 of the standard construction procedure, to this point.











5.1. FRONT FALSE BASE STRUT
This is a low front strut or lip which will support the lower front edge of the false bottom. 
•	This strut should be approximately half the height of the inner retaining wall, but not lower than any bulk head siphon level.
•	The strut should be placed approximately 50mm (2”) back from the inner retaining wall.
•	Apply a thin but sufficient bead of silicon along the bottom and left hand edges of the strut.










•	Carefully align the strut to be parallel with the back of the vivarium.
•	Press the piece with a light, but firm pressure to bed it into the silicon.
•	Use the Right-angle or Square to check that the strut is at right angles to the base.











5.2. BACK FALSE BASE STRUT
This is a higher strut or lip which is located on the back of the viv to support the back edge of the false bottom. If you are not using a back with an arched cut-out, then the strut can be reach down onto the base.
•	The top edge of this strut should be approximately 35 - 50mm (1½ - 2”) higher than the top edge of the front strut.
•	If you are using a back with a cut-out, the strut should be wide enough to run from the top of the cut-out to the required height.
•	Prepare two or three polystyrene blocks that fit snugly between the base and the top edge of the back cut-out.
•	Apply a several thin but sufficient beads of silicon along the back the strut.










•	Carefully align the top of the strut to be parallel with the base of the vivarium.
•	Press the piece with a light, but firm pressure to bed it into the silicon.











5.3. Allow the silicone to cure for 4 hours. 


5.4. FALSE BASE
•	Measure the distance from front top edge of the front strut to the top back edge of the back strut.
•	This measurement will give you your length of the false base.










•	Apply a thin but sufficient bead of silicon along the top edges of both the front and back struts.










•	Apply a thin but sufficient bead of silicon along the left hand edge of the false base.










•	Align the front and back edges of the false base to the top of the relevant struts.
•	Press the piece with a light, but firm pressure to bed it into the silicon.
•	Ensure that the base is also bedded along the left hand side.











5.5. SIDE (Right-Hand)
•	Apply a thin but sufficient bead of silicon along the side edges of the Door Strut and the retaining lip pieces.
•	Apply a thin but sufficient bead of silicon along the side edges of the false base front and back struts and the side edges of the false base.










•	Apply a thin but sufficient bead of silicon along the bottom and back inside edges of the side piece. 










•	Carefully align the side piece to the outside side edges of the base and back.
•	Press the side piece with a light, but firm pressure to bed it into the silicon.
•	Fold the x2 pieces of tape upwards and stick them to the side; this will assist in keeping everything in the correct place.
•	Use x2 pieces of tape and stick them across the back and side joint, this will assist in keeping everything in the correct place and in the upright position.











5.6. With most of the pieces in place and the vivarium constructed, run an adequate solid line of silicone into the joint areas on the inside, then run your finger over the silicone from one end to the other of each seam, preferably in one continuous motion, to smooth the silicone down and force it into the joint areas.

Tip: Dip your finger into a little water and dishwashing soap, before smoothing down the joints. (10 drops of soap in a glass of water)











5.7. From this point the assembly procedures are the same as for a standard assembly.


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## JPccusa

Hey Darryl,
I really like your design and detailed explanation. 
I have a question regarding the vent position. Why is the top vent positioned towards the back of the tank? Wouldn't be better to have it towards the front so a laminar flow of air would keep the front glass condensation-free? What is your (and other members as well) opinion/experience?

Thanks,

JP


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## nish07

Has anyone been able to find E track for 1/8" glass in the states? Brunner doesn't seem to sell it.

Also, I second JP's question. I'd figure the air flow would be better if the top vent were towards the front.


-Nish


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## Darryl

JPccusa said:


> I have a question regarding the vent position. Why is the top vent positioned towards the back of the tank? Wouldn't be better to have it towards the front so a laminar flow of air would keep the front glass condensation-free? What is your (and other members as well) opinion/experience?



The position of the vent is not fixed and can be moved forward to suit relative requirements.

I agree that the vent positioned towards the front would marginally improve the vertical laminar flow across the inside of the front of the vivarium. But in doing so, also in effect set up greater vertical temperature strata or bands within in the vivarium and by doing so also reduces the greater overall air circulation within the vivarium.

Therefore I position my vents further back. I have found that the overall air circulation is improved, which in turn also benefit the plant and result in better plant growth.

Regarding the issue of condensation, as most of the Europeans that used this design also tend to maintain a substantial number of vivariums, we tend to try and main the overall room temperature at the desired level. This alone prevents the condensation.

I do realise that not all of us can afford the space or money to maintain a whole room for frog husbandry and there these individual display vivariums, have to have their air circulation adjusted accordingly.


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## Haroldo

nish07 said:


> Has anyone been able to find E track for 1/8" glass in the states? Brunner doesn't seem to sell it.
> 
> -Nish


Yep, I've got about 60 feet of it in my garage...PM me...


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## MarcNem

LOL, I also have a ton of it in my garage too. I purchased mine from Outwater Plastic. Here you go.
Click Here


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## msminnamouse

This is so awesome and very easy to follow. You make the directions so clear. But wouldn't it just be cheaper to buy a ready made one? After you purchase all the parts and glass, wouldn't it cost the same or more than buying one already made?

Unless you gutted out an aquarium that you got super cheap, which I may just do. Where do you get glass from? Is it cheaper from a local glass supply company than Home Depot or Lowes?

But couldn't you avoid the gasket and the complicated construction of sliding doors if you had a swing open door, like the Zoomed ones? http://www.petsolutions.com/Zoo-Med-Naturalistic-Terrariums+I97609101+C40002019.aspx

Or is that a bad idea for frog set ups?


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## Darryl

After many requests regarding, how I go about cutting a curve or arch in the door strut, I put together this brief guide.

I hope that you will find this helpfull.

As an added note, this process can also be used to cut most curves in glass. ;-) 


*Cutting an Arched Glass Door Strut*

These are instructions to cut an arched glass door strut, in a European style vivarium. This same method is used to cut the arch in the back panel of the vivarium when installing a false base.

In order to be able to cut the same curve or arch constantly, it is advised that you use a template.










As I construct vivariums of different widths, I could cut a separate template for each new width vivarium that I construct, but that would cost me a lot of wasted time.

I designed and made a template that I could adjust to the required width.










This template is constructed from 6mm Phenolic sheet stock, so it very stable and will warp or be affected by temperature or humidity.

•	You may choose to make a one-off template, if you are only going to construct a single vivarium or a few of the same size.
•	A template for a one-off can be made from 6mm MDF, which easily cut and sanded to shape.










*CUTTING THE ARCH*
You will need to work on a stable and flat surface; if the surface is not flat the glass may not shear or be cut as desired.

Cover the work surface with several layers of newspaper. The newspaper serves two important functions.
1.	It protects from scratches and stops the glass from sliding around with working.
2.	The papers also provide just enough give under the glass, to be able to carry-out this “Cutting” procedure.

•	Carefully place your template on your glass strip.
•	The template should be aligned in the centre from left to right










•	Press down on the template firmly but gently, to ensure the template does not move.
•	Use your class cutter to score a single continuous and consistent line on the inside of the template.

*N.B. DO NOT TRY AND SCORE THE LINE TWICE*

•	You should be left with a single continuous arched line, as below.












•	Turn the section of glass over, so that the scored line now is located on the under side.
•	Ensure that there are no foreign objects under the glass or newspaper before proceeding.





*N.B. DO NOT RUSH THE FOLLOWING STEP*

•	Wear gloves.
•	Use your thumb and use a firm pressure to push down in the centre of the line. (see location of red dot in diagram below)
•	Remember the un-scored side of the glass should be face upward; this is the surface you should applying pressure to.
•	The glass will start to split along the score line.
•	Slowly push down on the ends of the split and follow the line away from the centre in the direct of the arrows.
•	As you work away from the centre, the split will run to the edge of the glass.










•	When the split ahs run the entire length of the line, carefully turn the glass, back over.
•	Repeat the above process on the score side of the glass.


•	The waste section should now be free of the arch.










•	Using emery cloth or silicone carbide sandpaper, buff all the raw edges of the glass just enough to take off the sharpness


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## markbudde

Thanks Darryl, what kind of success rate should I expect when doing this?
-Mark


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## Darryl

Hi Mark,

My success rate with this is about 95%, I suggest practicing first.
When I first started I had about a 60% success rate, but this improved greatly once I learnt to control my glass cutter properly. The trick is to have a single smooth and continuous line and use an even pressure from start to finish.


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## Julio

anyone know where to get black door track here in the US or a European company that woudl ship to the US?


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## dralucas

Hi, im a bit conserned about where the bottom front vent is. Do u know if with that design the water from misting system is getting trough the vent and down the floor?


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## Darryl

dralucas said:


> Hi, I’m a bit concerned about where the bottom front vent is. Do u know if with that design the water from misting system is getting trough the vent and down the floor?


??? I what way?

1.	Do you mean that if the base is not drain it it will over flow...
Or
2.	That if you spray directly down, you are spraying through the vent? 

We have using the design for many years with auto misting system and this has never been an issue. This is because we sight our misting heads slightly back from the front and angle them into the viv. Thereby you do not end up spraying the front sliding doors and do not have water running through the vent. 
Additionally as we use a very fine Stainless Steel mesh, you would literarily have to have standing water on the vent before it will start to run through.


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## dralucas

thk, i was conserned about the second one, from misting directly on the mesh but if u say so its fine.

Thk


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## tachikoma

In this image, I can't seem to understand the functionality of this false bottom. What I mean is that as I understand it the point of a false bottom is to have a way to collect a water supply and recirculate it without over saturating the land mass. Or simply to separate land from water yet have them interact with each other. 

I do not see how this false bottom provides any of these attributes (assuming all pieces are solid glass) I don't see a way for water to enter under the false bottom setup, or collect since there is a hole in the back pane of class. Am I just missing something? Someone help me out here I want to build this but I am obviously not understanding something.


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## Darryl

tachikoma said:


> I can't seem to understand the functionality of this false bottom.


 This is an omission on my part... 

The main function of this type of solid false base is to prevent the over saturation of the landmass.

It is used in two possible ways; firstly the excess water can be siphoned out the channel immediately in front of the sloping base, by hand.
The other method requires that a bulkhead fitting is placed in the bottom of the channel, in this way is all the excess water then drained off.

Where there are a lot of vivs in a rack the second method is normally employed.

I did not include this in my assembly instructions, as these are a guide only. This is why there are also no exact measurements either.

If you are going to put a bulkhead in your design make sure that you drill the hole in the base section of glass before you start to assemble the viv. Additionally double check that that your channel is wide enough to accommodate the bulkhead fitting and that the hole is drilled in the right place.

In Europe, we tend to use a bulkhead with a collar of about 1"; this ensures that there is at least an inch on water in the channel and that the vivs are not completely drained.


I hope this helps, if you have any additional questions, please feel free to ask.


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## tachikoma

Ahh thanks a million for clearing that up for me. One more question, in euro vivs like this one is there a way to have a pond in the landmass or is it more common to just have it in front "moat" style? Sorry for the persistent questions just trying to understand it as best I can.


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## Darryl

Depending on the breeders preference, either can be used.

To create a larger water area or pond, we simply shorten the depth of the sloping area, thereby widening the “Moat”.

With a wider “moat”, this can then be decorated and the hard edges hidden to look more natural.


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## tachikoma

Ahh, Thanks a bunch for your patience. I really appreciate it. Looking forward to building a very large version of this. 

Thanks again,
James


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## moore40

Hey is there any way possible to get some actual pics? The build is amazing, but to see a finished product would kinda be like the icing on the cake


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## kwazarr

This discussion got me thinking about the potential problem of frogs or tads getting stuck in the bulkhead or tubing, should such a method be used to remove the water. If you were to put a drain in the moat, it might be a good idea put a screen or filter of some kind at the opening so that any frogs/tads who might possibly end up in there are safe, and so you also don't have any random materials clogging up your drain.


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## 013

I don't really understand the false bottom. I'm a European and as such have a European tank. The extra sheet of glass isn't being used here anymore, as it doesn't really add anything to the tank and costs extra glass. 

You want good drainage? Use clay marbles and peat on top. Of course make sure, it's well above water.


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## sandiegoleu

have a question, i am having one of these built for me, but i want to have a waterfall in it, how would i go about have the wire exit the vivarium?

also is 490$ for a 32"by24"by24" sound right?


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## Darryl

moore40 said:


> Hey is there any way possible to get some actual pics? The build is amazing, but to see a finished product would kinda be like the icing on the cake


The thread below follows the process photographically:

http://www.dendroboard.com/forum/parts-construction/32305-constructing-european-viv-scratch-x4.html



sandiegoleu said:


> have a question, i am having one of these built for me, but i want to have a waterfall in it, how would i go about have the wire exit the vivarium?
> 
> also is 490$ for a 32"by24"by24" sound right?


If the person building the viv for you is competant in working with glass, then they should be able to drill a hole in the top or back for the cable to pass through.

As I have no idea of the cost of glass in the States or even local to you, I can comment on the price you have been quoted.


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## sandiegoleu

yes, the man that is doing is in the glass business. he usually does aquariums.

ill mention to him the hole for the pump. thank you


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## moore40

Darryl said:


> The thread below follows the process photographically:
> 
> http://www.dendroboard.com/forum/parts-construction/32305-constructing-european-viv-scratch-x4.html




OK, first thanks for the reply and link. Second it should be stickied as well or link of the original post as it adds the full scope to the project. The only prob. is I have to wait for the money tree to grow in the back yard to get my wall full of ero vivs.


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## Darryl

From this :













To this:










The two vivs at the bottom


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## usfpaul82

Does anyone know where to get the E profile plastic track for the sliding glass panes? Thanks.


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## Julio

http://www.dendroboard.com/forum/parts-construction/41560-where-can-i-buy-e-channels.html


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## LittleDip

Darryl I remember this post months ago before I left on maternity leave and I have to say your finished vivs are amazing!! Thank you so much for posting the construction layouts with pictures as you constructed them. 

I hope to some day make a viv myself and knowing that this thread is out here it will be a great tool to use. 

Moore40- let me know when your money tree starting blooming, I'll be over with a chainsaw


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## jay-jay

Hi,

Just wondering if you have the PDF of this yet ?


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## Darryl

Just drop me a PM with your E-mail and I can send you the PDF.


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## ChrisK

These are awesome and if I had the space and tools I would probably be making tons of them in large dimensions so don't get this question wrong because it's just out of curiosity - but other than making a custom size, what is the benefit of making these instead of getting an exo terra or zoo med and throwing some glass on top?


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## Morgan Freeman

Right. I'm just made a small glass viv as a kind of practice, it's actually much easier than you would imagine.

At some point I am definitely going to try this! Great journal.


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## ChrisK

So you're saying you do see a noticeable benefit other than custom size to building one of these instead of an exo terra or zoo med?


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## Tran2la

Thanks for taking the time to post this.


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## Landon

ChrisK said:


> So you're saying you do see a noticeable benefit other than custom size to building one of these instead of an exo terra or zoo med?


Id say there is the advantage of air flow control (from below the front door), which can be altered biuld to build, size adjustaility (make them the ideal size to fit your space perfectly), and sliding doors. IMO, its easer to FF proof sliders than the exo doors. On top of those, if you have the capaicity to drill glass, you can place drains and misting nozzle holes throughout the tank prior to assmebly.

Also, for some folks finding glass is cheap. Ive found a local wholesaler who has awesome deals on glass. A friend of mine and I built a 48x18x36 viv with side opening doors for under $200. Its been a while, but I think it was actually closer to $150. That was for 1/4" glass, and Im sure you could get away with 1/8 or 3/16 with the typical size of breeding cubes. 


I wanted to say Darryl, this is one of the most comprehensible build threads that I have seen. Your detail is incredible, and the finished products look great as well!


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## Swords

Hey you guys in the US who need plastic E profiles for sliding glass doors there is easy access to them at Rockler Woodworking shop. I got a 44" long set (you can cut them and make several setups) for under $20:

4 Foot Plastic Sliding Door Track - Rockler Woodworking Tools

Darryl what more can be said? Your tutorial is astounding!


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## Swords

Hey you guys in the US who need sliding glass E profiles here is Rockler Woodworking shop I got a 44" long set (you can cut them) there for under $20:

4 Foot Plastic Sliding Door Track - Rockler Woodworking Tools

If you do an ebay search you can sometimes find them in 72" lengths for even less!


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## jimmyc

hello is there to be more posts on this subject this is the most detailed build i've seen , i've even joined the forum to keep up, with this is very cool, im involved with two ther forums, and havent seen any thing like this before, thank you so much for all of your effort your the man


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## jgibeau

I have noticed alot of folks looking for the track, and the different shapes. You can get alot of this stuff from Tap Plastics, here in Seattle. This place, 
4 Foot Plastic Sliding Door Track - Rockler Woodworking Tools

Sells the track in different colors and finishes.

Hope this helps.


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## RMB

Last I checked I can get 1/4" glass for about 2$ per square foot, 1/8 is significantly less but I don't use it so I don't recall. Good luck on your builds.


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## Darryl

jimmyc said:


> hello is there to be more posts on this subject this is the most detailed build i've seen , i've even joined the forum to keep up, with this is very cool, im involved with two ther forums, and havent seen any thing like this before, thank you so much for all of your effort your the man


Jimmy, what additional info are you looking for?


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## ChrisK

Darryl said:


> Jimmy, what additional info are you looking for?


I think he likes it so much he doesn't want it to end


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## Darryl

ChrisK said:


> I think he likes it so much he doesn't want it to end


He... Hee..  The next step would be to make a video series... :?

But probably the next best thing is to actually try and build a viv or two to sate his appetite for vivs.


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## jgibeau

False bottoms are NOT for the recirculation of the water. I would never recirculate this water back onto the frogs; this water has filtered it's way through dead insects, rotting vegetation, and whatever is in the soil or whatever you are using as substrate. I would be willing to bet your next clutch of anything that some if not all of your frogs have girardia or coccidia or both, and you just don't know it. (Some of us medicate our frogs every couple of months...)

A false bottom does a few things. It makes the tank lighter, and easier to move around. It allows you to mist the tank for a far longer time without removing this water. When you do remove this water, inserting a small tube into a corner of the egg crate will allow you to siphon it out amazingly easy.

I am not sure how accessible the old frognet archives are, but I submitted a post on a frog sewer, or drain. I drilled the bottom of each tank in the back left, just big enough for a piece of PVC to fit through, and stick out the bottom. While the silicone to hold it in place was drying, I had it raised on four other pieces of PVC. When all done, I had constructed a PVC drain and attached it to the back of the rack, with a "T" where the PVC pipe siliconed into the tank extended down from the bottom would fit loosely down inside of. A sump pump with a float sent all water outside into the garden when it got deep enough. We then hooked our home made misting system into the house itself, jerry-rigged a garbage can with a toilet float, hooked it all up to a timer for three times a day, and voila! Didn't have to touch it again. (I am joking, I had to mess with it constantly, but it worked.)

Try to make everything you do for the frogs in your life as automated as possible. Anything that becomes a hassle, will become something you do not do as often as you should, which is not good for the frogs.

These front opening tanks with the vents and what may seem elaborate parts and pieces, are actually nothing more than automation designed to make sure that your frogs are healthier and happier.


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## Leidig

This really is the best example of how to build your own Euro Stlye Viv. Thank you for sharing this.


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## Darryl

I have now completed a set of instructions for the construction of a backward sloping front Viv.

These instructions will only be sent out by request.


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## DendroDanny

wow, looks great. i have some glass laying around, i'll have to try this sometime


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## train crash

why do you americans call it euro style viv because yes lots of europeans use them but our major company (at least here in jolly old england) is exo terra and they make front openingdoors.
but also awsome designs when i get the money(here comes the EMA) i may make one


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## andyrawrs

train crash said:


> why do you americans call it euro style viv because yes lots of europeans use them but our major company (at least here in jolly old england) is exo terra and they make front openingdoors.
> but also awsome designs when i get the money(here comes the EMA) i may make one


Frankly this is a generic (but awesome) variation of what I personally would call a Euro viv; my personal opinion is one that has front opening doors (sliding or hinged) and a low plate of glass that keeps water in can be called a Euro viv. For example, the Exo's are marketed as "European" design, at least here in the states. Most of what is available here besides "european vivs" are terrariums or aquariums. Otherwise we'd need to get custom acrylic or glass tanks.


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## Spectre66

I'm strongly considering building a few 18inch x 18 inch x 24 inch euro vivs outlined in this thread and I have a question. how much space should I allow for the joints on the inside pieces of glass like the door strut?


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## stanced

so would this work on my 55 gallon? im wanting it horizontal but where is 12 inches tall 48 long and 24 wide


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## stanced

also would home depot/lowes have the tracks for the doors?


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## Scott Richardson

found this nifty idea for a helping hand


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## Submarinr

Scott Richardson said:


> found this nifty idea for a helping hand


Sure beats asking four of your buddies to hold the tank together while the silicone dries


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## Oceana

i soo have to build this for my crested gecko i think this would be great for him


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## SEWERFest

Do you prime the door channels with anything before siliconing?


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## hexentanz

Scott Richardson said:


> found this nifty idea for a helping hand


Thanks for sharing this idea! I have to put together a rather large tank soon and was wondering how on earth I would get all parts together without some sort of helping hand, well I got one now.


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## jhowie

Thank you so much for this post! i can see that you have really made an effort to share your knowledge on this and this is highly appreciated especially for newbies like me! definitely something very helpful for us. I do hope that more expert members do pots that newbies like us can learn a lot from. will also appreciate if there will also be information about price range/costing of the project so that we will at least have an idea how much we would have to budget for this. thank you and keep up the good work! looking forward for more informative posts!


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## bmartin04983

Has anyone tried making this with 1/8" glass instead of 1/4"?


Great post! Thanks for taking the time to put it together!


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## Totenkampf

Outstanding tutrorial! I have been looking for a standard vivarium design and i think that this is it! I may install acrylllic for the top since that has greater optical clarity and will refract less of the light radiation from the T5HO fixtures and also will sweep my supfloor sump to one side as I have done in the past (in long rectangular tanks anyways) but other than that this is golden!

As far as comparing them to exo-terras its not a comparison. exo-terras and zoomeds are great for the price. i wish they had been around at the current price point before i got out of the hobby 10 years ago. they are not anywhere near as nice looking or sturdy as this design will be though. they also take a little more work to FF proof and are limited to the substrate depth. the screen tops and door hardware is also pretty flimsy.  if you need bulk terrariums and dont see yourself needing them for ten years than go for it, if you want something more then print these instructions out and find a good glass cutter.

i would imagine that you could make this design from 1/8" glass if you reinforced the door brace, but for the cost difference i would stick with something thicker


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## FrogBoyMike

love the detail and time taken to answer all questions in this design.


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## BlueRidge

Id like to build a couple of these out of acrylic.


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## Grojas

Hi there, this is an awesome tutorial for building a Viv. Thanks. Also I have a question, I have some spare glass that was made for me for a sump for my reef. It is 8mm glass and the dimensions of the sump are 120cm Wide x 65cm tall x 52cm depth. Do you think this can be converted to a viv like this or it is too big?


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## pdoria

I asked Darryl for a copy of the PDF before realizing that this thread is over 7 years old! 

Does anyone still have a PDF copy of this project?

TIA,
Pedro


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## pristurus

Hi I am from England, and was wondering where you can get the angle/corner trim/profile from? I have looked and looked but cannot find anything like this in black, only white. Any help much appreciated. 

Great guide Darryl


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## toaddrool

Great stuff. A year and sometime ago I attempted to build my own glass tank and failed miserably. Now with this I feel confident enough to finally try again and get some use out of the surviving pieces of glass.


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## Evil_Demos

I am working on converting this thread to PDF for those of you that have been asking. I should be don't by this weekend and will post it for all your viewing pleasures. 


---
- -Evil


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## Bjcg

Has anybody actually tried building this thing? It looks real good! if so, im pretty sure we'd all like to see them


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## Evil_Demos

Darryl said:


> From this :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The two vivs at the bottom


The OP built these..


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## Sam thomas

This is brilliant I'm going to make a large one for bothriechis schlegelli and some Costa Rican yellow darts, I forgot the name now. 

Anyway, I want to use strictly Costa Rican plants etc as both inhabitants are from there. There is the issue of snakes eating frogs as they make up part of their natural diet. Although, bothriechis schlegelli (eyelash viper) are strictly arboreal and in a large enough setup with the right design, with well fed snakes it can work. There is a zoo somewhere that has done the same thing.

I'm rambling now. I am posting because I noticed a part of your tutorial where you've said that you can cut an arch out of the back piece to allow for a false bottom. I'm not understanding how this works exactly, could you elaborate?

Thanks.


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## Raptor22

I love this thread. Managed to score a free7'x3.5'x.25" sheet of glass today, and can't wait to start building tanks.


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## Dendrokeller

I am very impressed by this guide. Very detailed, with great and understandable graphics. Respect for the effort at the vivs and this description.

Greetings 
Thorsten


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## nate_88

Love the details


King N8 88


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## Hlabov

Thank's to this thread I have started making terrariums 2 years ago for my self and later for customers. Now it's my business


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## nate_88

Them are sweet 

King N8 88


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## Darryl

Hi All,

Apologies for not being around for a long time, unfortunately life has had me on it own roller coaster for a while.
Below are links where you can download both the .PDF and the glass cut calculator.

Please let me know if they do not work.

Viv Build PDF https://www.dropbox.com/s/5ve9jsf520yhva1/DIY Glass Open Front Vivarium 001.pdf
Glass cut calculator https://www.dropbox.com/s/pj8b4lrkp5l46o7/Viv-Size Calculator.xls
Optional False base instructions https://www.dropbox.com/s/o483qq3xurzgmm2/Optional False Base Instructions.pdf
Optional sloping front instructions https://www.dropbox.com/s/xdtlf7awbhmt570/DIY Glass Open Front Vivarium Plans Sloping Front001.pdf
Cutting arched curves https://www.dropbox.com/s/q1767lqou2tt0mi/Cutting an Arched Door Strut.pdf


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## Darryl

Hi All,

Apologies for not being around for a long time, unfortunately life has had me on it own roller coaster for a while.
Below are links where you can download both the .PDF and the glass cut calculator.

Please let me know if they do not work.

Viv Build PDF https://www.dropbox.com/s/5ve9jsf520yhva1/DIY Glass Open Front Vivarium 001.pdf
Glass cut calculator https://www.dropbox.com/s/pj8b4lrkp5l46o7/Viv-Size Calculator.xls
Optional False base instructions https://www.dropbox.com/s/o483qq3xurzgmm2/Optional False Base Instructions.pdf
Optional sloping front instructions https://www.dropbox.com/s/xdtlf7awbhmt570/DIY Glass Open Front Vivarium Plans Sloping Front001.pdf
Cutting arched curves https://www.dropbox.com/s/q1767lqou2tt0mi/Cutting an Arched Door Strut.pdf


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## rillaboratories

Hi Darryl,

Will these methods apply to all tank sizes. I want to go with a larger tank build 4x2x6 using 1/4" glass. I've seen some larger european vivs that have aluminum trim. I can't tell if the trim was there for support or aesthetic appeal. Will the aluminum be necessary at that size or can I just follow the footprint?


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## rigel10

They work for me. Very useful calculator. Thank you!


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## Darryl

rillaboratories said:


> Hi Darryl,
> 
> Will these methods apply to all tank sizes. I want to go with a larger tank build 4x2x6 using 1/4" glass. I've seen some larger european vivs that have aluminium trim. I can't tell if the trim was there for support or aesthetic appeal. Will the aluminium be necessary at that size or can I just follow the footprint?


I am assuming that those dimension are 4' wide, 2' deep and 6' high? If this is the case, a few slight adjustment need to be made to the basic design, such as support strips or ribs along that 4' x 6' back panel. I would also suggest that any single glass panel that is over 3' long and wider that 18", that you use 3/8" thick glass.

Depending on how a the joints of a viv are constructed then some builder in Europe have used aluminium trim as both support and for aesthetic reasons.

My main concern would be both the size of the doors and the sliding door rails. For doors of about 4' high and 2' wide you would need to use at least 3/8" glass and these would be too heavy to function properly in PVC sliding track. These bigger doors will require a aluminium track that has small rollers in, this type of track would better be able to support the weight of the doors and the small rollers enable the doors the slide easily.


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## BlueRidge

I completed forgot about this thread. This was an amazing re-read.


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## Hooskerdoo

Hello! I realize this thread has been quiet, but I just entered this hobby and want to build this vivarium! I built a similar style with acrylic since I had a huge sheet in my garage. 

What changes would need to be made if 18th in glass is used? I am having a hard time finding affordable 1/4in plate glass. Does anyone have a custom glass source online? Thanks!


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## Ravage

Hey Hoosker,
I've built a good number of vivariums, and would recommend staying away from 1/8" glass for anything but doors (non structural pieces). A good source for inexpensive 1/4" glass is used aquariums. Check Craigslist- you'll have to disassemble them, but they can be almost free. You can also modify an aquarium into a horizontal of vertical vivarium rather easily. This reduces the cuts required, and speeds you to the gratification stage. Good Luck. Building vivariums can be just as addictive as raising frogs.


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## dragonfrog

Darryl mentioned that there would be a PDF file available on this project, any body know where it is?


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