# Titebond vs Drylok



## lukeklos (Dec 18, 2012)

I've seen that both drylok and titebond 2 are used to cover a gs background, but it made me wonder if one is better than the other?

Does anybody have a preference out of the two?
If so please explain why.


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## MrBiggs (Oct 3, 2006)

I don't have as much experience as many here but after using drylok+GS I will never go back to any other method. Crazy easy, much faster, great looking.


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## Judy S (Aug 29, 2010)

I could be mistaken about the purpose behind each of these...but in my limited experience...The Titebond is just that...a glue that is used to "bond" things like the organics to something else. The Drylock is for protection from the humidity...Both can be tinted with acrylic paints, however...and both would probably adhere to GS, and the Titebond III can be actually mixed with peat, or coir and applied... The Titebond recommended is Titebond III


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## JoshsDragonz (Jun 30, 2012)

I use a combo of Drylok and TB3+coir. It gives the background a varied texture. I will coat the bg with tinted drylok first. Then I will add the TB3 mix to other areas.


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## lukeklos (Dec 18, 2012)

Where do y'all find drylok?
I've had a hard time finding it HD or lowes


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## Judy S (Aug 29, 2010)

Paint dept.


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## lukeklos (Dec 18, 2012)

Ok thanks!
Im starting construction of a 20 gal vert today, with products from buddys dart frogs! I was thinking about putting some leucs in there. 
What other species would do good a tank that is higher than wide?


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## whitethumb (Feb 5, 2011)

leucs may use the sides but they require plenty of ground space. most hobbiest have thumbs or pums in verts. 



lukeklos said:


> Ok thanks!
> Im starting construction of a 20 gal vert today, with products from buddys dart frogs! I was thinking about putting some leucs in there.
> What other species would do good a tank that is higher than wide?


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## Erikb3113 (Oct 1, 2008)

Does drylok affect PH? no additional coating?


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## MrBiggs (Oct 3, 2006)

Erikb3113 said:


> Does drylok affect PH? no additional coating?


It's a sealant, so once it's fully cured it won't affect pH.


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## Judy S (Aug 29, 2010)

which, if either can stick to plastics?? I want to make a framework out of some sort of plastic for an 80mm fan and cover it with something organic...The fan "cage" will allow the removal of the actual fan if it becomes necessary. Hoping that this thread hasn't been hijacked...if so, the mod can move it. I just think a thread about what sticks to what would be helpful...


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## B-NICE (Jul 15, 2011)

This is the 1st time I'm ever hearing drlock and peat moss. I may try it instead of using silicone.


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## JoshsDragonz (Jun 30, 2012)

IMO I will never use silicone on Backgrounds again. It definitely has its uses... But for covering large areas Drylok is just easier and looks better. You can add in whatever type of organic matter you want. I have used sand and coir. Now it will leave the background looking more rock like. That's why I usually will then do a decently thick layer of the TB3 mix over most of the Drylok covered bg. This way plants can root into the TB3 mix.


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## Ginko (Mar 18, 2012)

Just another vote that drylok is great. Similar to Josh I mix it with sand and peat and it works wonders. As far as it adhering to plastics...not sure. Don't think you'd have much trouble though. If anything the first coat might be thin and difficult. From there any subsequent coats would have something better to grip. If you score the plastic or otherwise rough it up a bit it'll be that much easier.


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## B-NICE (Jul 15, 2011)

any pix of this method


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## Iniquity (Sep 9, 2011)

I'm currently using the advice JoshsDragonz gave me. I painted the GS background with a couple of coats of my tinted Drylok, then mixed TB3 and peat and pressed it on. So far, it's looking very good and isn't nearly as messy as the silicon + peat method. I'm all thumbs, so I need all the help I can get when it comes to lessening messes. I'm very pleased with this method. It's making for a fairly thick layer, and covering nooks and crannies nicely. 

It's requiring way more TB3 than I had anticipated though.


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## Caudex (Jan 28, 2013)

Hey guys, I'm brand new here and trying to learn as much as I can so I can build my first vivarium. Does moss still grow on the Titebond / Drylok mixture? 
Or the silicone method work better for moss?

Thanks!


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## JoshsDragonz (Jun 30, 2012)

Moss grows on it just fine... As long as you keep the moss moist and give it good light.


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## cyck22 (Sep 8, 2011)

Josh, do you bring the drylok right to the edge of the gs against the glass? I'm using the drylok on a current build and am concerned that it will peel of the glass and allow the background to pull away from the glass..? I'm not using the tb3 but I do have an extra tube of silicone - I was considering running a bead the whole way around the background (where it meets the glass) in order to help properly seal it. Thoughts?
Also, the first coat of drylok I laid down was nice and thin. I think I went too thick on the second coat cause I got a lot of cracking in the drylok when it dried. Have you ever experienced this? I'm assuming another thin coat should do the trick in smoothing out and filling the cracks...
If I mix cocofiber in with the drylok will it still look like cocofiber, or does it look more like sand (since it will be coated in drylok)?

(I considered starting a new thread, but this one is all about tb3 and drylok right?) =)


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## JoshsDragonz (Jun 30, 2012)

I have painted the drylok on glass with out much problem...it has been in areas that you don't really see though. 

You could try the silicone to seal the edges, I would think that would work. As far as the cracks go, it was because of the real thick layer. Once that layer cures a thin layer will cover it. 

If you add coir to the drylok it just covers it. It is just a more coarse texture than sand.

Hope this helps


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## cyck22 (Sep 8, 2011)

Yea it does help, thanks! I'll put down another thin coat before I start texturing/detailing. 

I'm going to add coco fiber to one of the layers - I got the stuff in the bag (not the dehydrated brick), do I need to bake it first to dry it out or is it fine as is?

Here's my other issue... http://www.dendroboard.com/forum/showthread.php?p=816304 I got a few responses to the original question but if anybody else has experience I think the input would benefit everybody!


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