# Paludarium



## BigC (Mar 18, 2010)

Hi.
I'm new to the forum. I have kept and bred Killifish for over 35 years and I am in the process of planning and maintaining a small Paludarium. (South American biotope). I was just wishing to ask a few questions surrounding the dartfrog aspect.
How many frogs is it feasable to keep in a small 24x12x24 Paludarium?
Which colourful species would you consider idiot proof for beginners?
As I'll be keeping Rivulus xiphidius in the water at the base of the Paludarium which frog sp. would be considered as the best swimmer? (if it were to fall in)
I think that's all for now but I'm sure to be asking a whole lot more daft questions in the coming months.
I will catalogue the build as and when I start, at the moment it's all research.
Thanks in advance
Regards
BigC


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## SmackoftheGods (Jan 28, 2009)

Paludariums take up too much ground space to keep many frogs in them. Leucomelas are IMO the closest thing you'll find to an idiot proof frog. Depends on how big your water feature is going to be, but you might be able to keep two leucs in there. Typically we say that PDFs in general are bad swimmers. Technically they can swim, but there are a number of factors that would deter most froggers from keeping a pond that requires swimming from frogs. There was a thread in the General section about this topic not too long ago started by Philsuma.


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## McBobs (Apr 26, 2007)

Take a look at vietnamese mossy frogs. They make use of a good water system just as much as they do climbing/utilizing ground space. 

The water is not a problem for them at all and often swim in it while looking like badass frogs. 

As for the killifish, I wouldnt worry about them with the frogs at all. I currently have a 37 gallon paludarium for my mossy frogs with 4 killifish in the bottom and they are great for cleaning up drowned crickets that die in the water. 

-Matt


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## BigC (Mar 18, 2010)

Thanks guys for your input. Much appreciated.
Something to consider there (frog safety around water)
I was planning to incorporate an external fogger and one misting head and have drainage for the land mass which will have water running completely under a false planting area. (Glass angular tray)
That is not too hard to figure out as I'll be making all this myself as I'm a glasscutter.
What concerns me is climate control.
I was perhaps wanting to utilise a ceramic heat emitter coupled to a thermostatic device. Is this the way I should be going? And if so, what wattage would you recommend for the heat emitter? for the tank size mentioned in my initial post.
and finally just another little question on the frogs. If I was to go with Leucomelas (sorry Matt) can I keep 1 male and 2 females or does this not work.
Apologies for the newbie questions.
Again thank you in advance for any relevant information supplied.
ATB
C


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## McBobs (Apr 26, 2007)

How big will the landmass be? The more land you have, the more frogs you can have. 

-Matt


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## SmackoftheGods (Jan 28, 2009)

Leucs tend to do fairly well in groups if provided with enough space. If you've got enough space a 1.2 should be just fine. It's just finding the space in a paludarium that seems to be the tricky part.


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## BigC (Mar 18, 2010)

Thanks again Guys!


> How big will the landmass be?


Well I am building a kind of glass box planting area (drilled for plumbed drainage)
I will probably have the tray almost the size of the base with the water mass running underneath the whole tray. I also need room for pumps etc and was going to build a flalse wall to create a rear chamber but I've decided to utilise a sump instead. So a lot of tank drilling will be involved for the bulkheads for the aquatic plumbing/wiring and also for misters,foggers and heat emmiter.
I will consider trying to get as big a landmass as possible to accommodate 3 frogs (1male : 2females)

Can anyone give me an answer to my climate control theory, using a heat emitter and what wattage is required for my tank..

Thanks again
C


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## BigC (Mar 18, 2010)

Here is an image of the set-up for conversion.








Potential Paludarium...minus a new, taller tank (under construction)
ATB
C


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## McBobs (Apr 26, 2007)

Looks good to me! Just make sure to leave enough room for your leucs. Plenty of ways out of the water and a good sized landmass will ensure that you have no problems!

Here's my latest paludarium.








Except that now, I've got a full canopy and stand to match the tank. 

And just for giggles, my mossies lovin on their driftwood. 









-Matt


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## BigC (Mar 18, 2010)

Neat tank there MrB, Frogs look great, they seem very communal, what size to they attain.
I think I'll be going for much less water though.
I'm planning and researching all the time.
Thanks for the help.
Regards
C


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## BigC (Mar 18, 2010)

*Through the Mist!*
On the topic of misters, I'm planning on having 2 heads (one on each corner of the tank). 
What water should I be using for this purpose. 
I have Rainwater and Reverse Osmosis (for the Killifish). Does it matter about pH or dKH (chemical constituents) of the water you use for this purpose.
I had read that RO water wont leave stains on the viewing panel as much as normal Tapwater.
Would anyone like to advise me on this little matter
Regards
C


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## heatfreakk3 (Oct 15, 2008)

Looks very good.I love those little mossy frogs, lol. So cute. Im going to haveto get me a pair sometime 


McBobs said:


> Looks good to me! Just make sure to leave enough room for your leucs. Plenty of ways out of the water and a good sized landmass will ensure that you have no problems!
> 
> Here's my latest paludarium.
> 
> ...


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## McBobs (Apr 26, 2007)

BigC said:


> *Through the Mist!*
> On the topic of misters, I'm planning on having 2 heads (one on each corner of the tank).
> What water should I be using for this purpose.
> I have Rainwater and Reverse Osmosis (for the Killifish). Does it matter about pH or dKH (chemical constituents) of the water you use for this purpose.
> ...


I would go ahead and just RO/DI water. It doesn't stain the glass at all and makes viewing easier while still watering your plants. 

Another thing to consider is that after awhile using regular tap water, the trace minerals and nutrients in the water will leave deposits not only on your glass, but also on the tip of the misting nozzles. This can eventually clog them up and make the misting action subpar. 

-Matt


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