# LED Floods?



## Ryan (Feb 18, 2004)

Dendro Dave posted these before but have yet to see anyone use them in a dart tank. Reefers have posted them working great in refugium so its got hope. 50w for 60.00 is not a bad deal if they work well. No actual K rating listed.

50W
DAY LIGHT
4500-5000 lumens
11 1/8" x 9 1/8" X 5"



10W 20W 30W 50W 100W LED Flood Light Day Warm White Outdoor Landscape Lamp | eBay


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## motydesign (Feb 27, 2011)

day light with those leds are 6200K, the 50 will hot spot pretty bad, my suggestion would be three 10W or 3 20W spread across the top of the tank about 6" to 8" above the glass. if you get them id like to hear about the temps that they create on the housing!!!! im working on some of my own stuff and want to see what they think is acceptable over the LEDs specified operating temps.


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## Ryan (Feb 18, 2004)

Would that be overkill for a 18x18x24h zoomed? I have never worked with LEDs and I know their brightness is all directed down rather wasted in all directions. 

Thanks for the great replies!

Ryan


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## Nath514 (Jul 8, 2012)

I think I may order a 10w just to see what it looks like. Does this come with a plug on it, or is it designed to be directly wired into a houses wiring. If that is the case would you go with 12v or 120v?


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## Nath514 (Jul 8, 2012)

This may be the same product:

Amazon.com: LEDwholesalers 10 Watt LED Waterpoof Outdoor Security Floodlight 85-264v Ac, 3701WH: Home Improvement

seems to be getting mostly good reviews.


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## radiata (Jul 24, 2010)

motydesign said:


> day light with those leds are 6200K, the 50 will hot spot pretty bad, my suggestion would be three 10W or 3 20W spread across the top of the tank about 6" to 8" above the glass. if you get them id like to hear about the temps that they create on the housing!!!! im working on some of my own stuff and want to see what they think is acceptable over the LEDs specified operating temps.


motydesign,

I'm not familiar with the verb "hot spot". Could you clarify?

Thanks,
Bob


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## drutt (Oct 4, 2011)

radiata said:


> motydesign,
> 
> I'm not familiar with the verb "hot spot". Could you clarify?
> 
> ...


I have that Led 50 and it dont produce any heat...


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## Ryan (Feb 18, 2004)

I believe Moty is referring to a hot spot as in light burn not tenperature burn. It is also dependent on how high from the tank the light is. 

How do you like the 50? How's it's spread? Nice and bright and what size tank do you have it on? I'm really excited about these. I live in a hot state so tenperature for the darts and tank re important.


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## Dendro Dave (Aug 2, 2005)

Here is another thread these were being discussed in. I don't think it was ever made clear if it is as simple as wiring on a 3 prong plug or if further measures would be needed to make these work....I'd love to know.

http://www.dendroboard.com/forum/pa...spotlights-now-what-need-electrical-help.html


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## Nath514 (Jul 8, 2012)

Well after reading that thread, I will not be purchasing one after all.


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## Ryan (Feb 18, 2004)

From why I read on an aquarium forum, they work extremely well even for reef tanks, but the wiring is color coded for Chinese coding. So you can't follow that. I will post the link to the thread. If you wire it to American coding it will burn out the drivers.

Edit: all I have see offere have 3 wires not two. Difference from the db link you posted. Looks similar other than that. I may order two 20w tomorrow to give em a shot.

Second edit: yeah I don't think people are wiring them properly. To caus fires I highly doubt they are. Out of all the reviews I have yet to hear of fires, but have heard of driver failures and they usually wire it as if it were American.


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## Sammie (Oct 12, 2009)

Just curious, why are they called flood lights?


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## drutt (Oct 4, 2011)

Ryan said:


> I believe Moty is referring to a hot spot as in light burn not tenperature burn. It is also dependent on how high from the tank the light is.
> 
> How do you like the 50? How's it's spread? Nice and bright and what size tank do you have it on? I'm really excited about these. I live in a hot state so tenperature for the darts and tank re important.



Here is my Led 50 for my new build, Actually I dont know if the light is enough I probably buy 2-3 10W Leds when the build is finished to light up some spots. I will use a lot of roots and cork so its difficult to know if this light will reach the bottom. This build is 110cm high. 

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## Ryan (Feb 18, 2004)

Nice! The viv I am looking to use it for his half that height. I think one 50w should work than, could always expand. Hows the heat it generates?


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## calz (Feb 18, 2013)

My first post on this forum...


I am also keen to here how these perform, i can get hold of these in the UK and at about 4x less expensive than a led light strip. Do they produce a lot of heat in the viv? and because pictures can't really express brightness, do you think a 2 x 30w (i know you have the 50 but in your opinion) would be suitable for a 4ft wide x 15" high? 

Cheers 


btw, I can answer a question from Sammie, i believe they are called "flood lights" because on a football or soccer pitch they flood the area with light. I think..


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## drutt (Oct 4, 2011)

No, the Led light dont produce any heat. But honestly the light is a little bit cold and I prefere some warmer light. Anyway, I will try this Led 50 and if I dont like it I change it. I cant really tell as my build is not finished how the light is. It will be different with all the plants inside.


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## Ryan (Feb 18, 2004)

I'm leaning towards a daylight 50w and a warm light 10w to start. Hopefully that will balance the color temperature of the light for a more natural feel. After I have it hooked up and going I may order a second 10w to further balance the color either in favor of warmth or cool depending on the effects of the first 10w. 

Ill post a review when the time comes. Will be a bit though.


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## Ryan (Feb 18, 2004)

"Thanks for your inquiry.

Note that we carry two versions of this item, an AC version and a 12VDC
version. The AC version (which you purchased) should have all 3 wires
connected: Brown to Hot, Blue to Neutral, and Green/Yellow to Ground.
Currently these flood lights do not have UL certification.

I removed one of the lights to see if it had any certification. It had the CE certification required by the European Union. More importantly, it had the GS Certification on it which is the German version of UL testing. I am comfortable with this and will leave them installed on my house."

So they are both European Union certified and German. There seems to be a consensus to make sure ground wire is attached to the inside of the unit an make sure you are using the correct color coding for the product. I am confident that if it is both certified for Germany and eu who are both strict I trust the product as long as wiring is done properly, particularly the ground.


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## calz (Feb 18, 2013)

Good update, I was also wondering about the safety of these and having them wired into a plug. I wouldn't imagine not earthing the something like this...


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## Ryan (Feb 18, 2004)

Agreed. Even more so when it's a metal case. That's a shock hazard as is.


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## Ryan (Feb 18, 2004)

Got the lights set up. Look great, I think it could use another 3000k to balance the light out. As of now its borderline to high kelvin. Great none the less. May not even bother with adding another 3000k. With a total of 60w it is hell of a bright set up. Definitely enough to grow broms and orchids. I Dont know how much brighter than my 65cfl it is, but definitely a bit. Biggest improvement is the cool running capabilities. I could not use the 65 because the heat was so intense.


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## Dendro Dave (Aug 2, 2005)

Ryan said:


> Agreed. Even more so when it's a metal case. That's a shock hazard as is.


You could spray em down with plasti dip...when unplugged...might insulate them or at least be enough to lessen the danger if you got a thick enough coat on...mask off the glass of course.


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## Dendro Dave (Aug 2, 2005)

Ryan said:


> Got the lights set up. Look great, I think it could use another 3000k to balance the light out. As of now its borderline to high kelvin. Great none the less. May not even bother with adding another 3000k. With a total of 60w it is hell of a bright set up. Definitely enough to grow broms and orchids. I Dont know how much brighter than my 65cfl it is, but definitely a bit. Biggest improvement is the cool running capabilities. I could not use the 65 because the heat was so intense.


So you just wired a 3 prong plug to them? What is the color code for the wires, I mean what goes to what, since it isn't red/black etc...


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## calz (Feb 18, 2013)

I think the wiring varies, i would look at the ebay page with the hopes of it telling you or contact the seller. 

I don't know much about electrics, but i think i'd rather have it earthed then sprayed with a kind of plastic.


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## skanderson (Aug 25, 2011)

just a quick correction. the 50 watt led does produce heat. it produces less waste heat than lighting we used before leds but it is impossible to produce no waste heat. the light seems much cooler becuase most of the waste heat is directed into the heatsink on the back of the unit. i would never dip a led in plastic. at best you will shorted the led emitters lifespan due to higher running temps. at worst you could start a fire. i do like the look of the unit over your tall viv. any chance of getting par numbers at the floor of the viv so we can estimate its efficiency? following this thread with interest.


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## Dendro Dave (Aug 2, 2005)

skanderson said:


> just a quick correction. the 50 watt led does produce heat. it produces less waste heat than lighting we used before leds but it is impossible to produce no waste heat. the light seems much cooler becuase most of the waste heat is directed into the heatsink on the back of the unit. i would never dip a led in plastic. at best you will shorted the led emitters lifespan due to higher running temps. at worst you could start a fire. i do like the look of the unit over your tall viv. any chance of getting par numbers at the floor of the viv so we can estimate its efficiency? following this thread with interest.


That is possible, or it may melt the plasti dip over the heatsink area....Probably wouldn't cut down the heat dissipation enough to hurt it though. Attempt at own risk


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## Ryan (Feb 18, 2004)

Black hot, white neutral, green ground. So Black to Brown, White to Blue, and Green/brown to green.

Viv is a work in progress. Still a lot of cleaning up to do and a lot more additions before planting.


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## ndame88 (Sep 24, 2010)

Holy crap, viv looks great!! Thats what the rocks were supposed to look like in mine, but I failed to make it look natural like yours.


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## Ryan (Feb 18, 2004)

Thanks! That means a lot. Still has a really long way to go before its looking how I'd like. Every time i build a viv or anything for that matter, I think of the 50,000 things I wish i did instead or differently.


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## calz (Feb 18, 2013)

Bump

Just want to know how these are going one month on?


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## jimmy rustles (Mar 10, 2013)

from what ive heard, most of the LED-floods seem to flicker quite much, not visible for our eyes, but it might be visible to reptile eyes, which could stress em.


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## calz (Feb 18, 2013)

I think LEDs have a flicker rate of 60Hz unless you get the more expensive butt less efficient "Rectified" LED, they flicker at 120Hz. Some people can detect a 60Hz flicker and can be distracting. I don't know what LED the floods use. 

Your video had no audio, or description attached and was just a flickering LED. So here is my unrelated youtube video.


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## Ryan (Feb 18, 2004)

Just now have the first plants in. HC. Will report when I have results, and I am not worried about flickering...


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## B-NICE (Jul 15, 2011)

Looks good


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## Ryan (Feb 18, 2004)

Has about 6 gallons of water including under false bottom, will have soil in some parts, mainly just for refuge for micro-fauna. The rest is Hygrolon to hopefully grow orchids and other moisture hungry epiphytes. Although It has not been long enough to notice any growth, I am happy with the lights. I may add another 10w for color adjustment. I like it now, but think it could use the warmth. I also have a circulation fan that should be in before orchids arrive, a hidden pump under the falsebottom for water circulation and to provide surface area for beneficial bacteria. Its a aqueon 10 filter. There are hidden vents in the hygrolon transition area to allow water flow. Plan on a couple painted red shrimps in the water section. Available water for them is about 2.5 gallons, it doesnt look like it in the angle of the photo though. some say as high as 5 per gallon, but I simply want a total of five. If they breed I will set up a separate 10 gallon for overflow of the suckers. I hear they can be prolific.


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## calz (Feb 18, 2013)

Its an interesting build i like the fact your using 2 experimental components in your build, the hygrolon and the led flood light. I will continue to watch and enjoy your build, i love the hardscape and the water section.


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## folius (Jan 2, 2013)

Very interesting concept!


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## Duff (Aug 4, 2011)

Oh Ryan, it's time to share an update with us on how your tank is doing!!! Pretty Please? Extra extra pretty please  

Duff


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## calz (Feb 18, 2013)

Really hoping this worked


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## Ryan (Feb 18, 2004)

So far so good. Too early for an update really. The initially shock of the transplants for the orchids have lead to a few dropped leaves, but now some new growths coming in. Moss has been placed around the viv in tiny amounts from orchids. It is growing and starting to spread now. So far the lights seem to be doing the trick. New growths of Dryadela Zebrina, Dryadela puseola has one or two, Bulbophyllum is doing okay and putting out a few, and so is the barbosella handroi. Now I still feel it is far too early to tell. Some reason a bit of my HC melted. I don't know if it was not enough nutrients as it was on plain old hygrolon with no frogs or insects to leave nutrients for it. We will see. Ill definitely post an update once things start actually growing in a bit. I am happy with the lights, and with the hygrolon as of now.


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## Ryan (Feb 18, 2004)

Also be carefull about low light plants being in the center of the light. Even some of the orchids were burned by the light but off center seems to do the trick for them.


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