# 10 Gallon Paludarium Build Log



## Entoherptology (May 26, 2012)

Hey guys,
I have been a lurker on this forum for quite some time now, and I thought it is about time to give a go at my own build. 

My paludarium is going to take place in a horizontally orientated 10 gallon fish aquarium. There is going to be a medium sized peninsula protruding from a faux rock wall, and they are going to be constructed using the sheet foam and underlayment cement method. Surrounding the peninsula, is going to be about 3 inches of water, covered with a mat of duckweed and planted richly with elodea. The overall appearance of the peninsula I am trying to achieve is making it look like several large rocks combined to make a "haul-out" area. Additionally, if all goes well, I would like to use a small pump, that is hidden in the background, to pump water from the water portion into a small trickle flowing down the peninsula.

Because this is my first build, and because of my limited resources, there are
several problems that I plan to run into, and probably much more. 
The size of my tank may affect my ability to affectively carve rocks because this is my first build.
I may have a problem with my materials not being water-proof.
My creek idea may not work as planned.
Again, there are probably much more issues I will run into.

Before I begin, I would like to show you what I have to work with so I do not do something wrong right away.









This is my tank. All constructive criticism is welcome, besides those who will hound my on my tank size. I am well aware of the obstacles that this will create.









This is my first major question: Is this paint water proof? I know that it is safe for the frogs because it says right on the label-non-toxic. If anyone has any experience with this paint, please let me know. I got the large bottle of black for the black washing, and then the various shades of browns, grey, and dark green for accents.

Ethafoam Blocks at NRSweb.com
This is the foam I ordered for the base of the rock wall. It should be here on Thursday.

On Friday I will start constructing the basic hardscape for my paludarium. By all means, please criticize, comment, and put in your input. I really appreciate it.

For those that are interested, if all goes well, this will house a trio of juvenile Pacific Chorus Frogs.


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## kawana (May 22, 2012)

The photo of your paint is mirrored....


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## frog dude (Nov 11, 2011)

Yeah Whats up with that? you didn't take the picture through a mirror did you?


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## Entoherptology (May 26, 2012)

kawana said:


> The photo of your paint is mirrored....


Yeah, sorry about that.
My MacBook's camera is messed up.


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## Entoherptology (May 26, 2012)

Quick Update:
For Flora, I have decided to make this paludarium replicate the Northern Californian Marshes as much as possible. Therefore, I am using all plants that are native to Northern CA. I have already visited a local nursery that specializes in native plants, and they have hooked me up with a few good, compact species that will fare well in my environment. 

My plan so far is, again, having duckweed and elodea in the water area. On the peninsula, I am going to use a boggy type plant (sorry, no specific names yet) to fill in the cracks between the "rocks". Hopefully they will thrive in their shoreside environment. Last, but not least, I am using several cultivars of a compact, succulent-like plant (again, no scientific names quite yet) on the rock wall that requires a dryer lifestyle.

For those who are wondering, I am not going to use a false bottom. The frogs usually defecate in the water, and any waste on the rocks can be flushed into the water. Most of the waste will be broken down by snails, tubifex worms, and bacteria, but I figure that frequent water changes are still very necessary due to the small volume of water.

Hopefully my foam will arrive by the end of the weekday. Then, I can begin the wonderful process of sculpting


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## Entoherptology (May 26, 2012)

I have started to construct my basic plumbing system.
For filtration, I have decided to use the Zoo Med 501 Canister Filter

The larger PVC pipe is going to be placed in the corner of the tank. The bottom is going to notched and then lined with mesh to prevent smaller invertebrates from getting stuck in the system. The notched section will be slightly lower than the water level. The middle section of the pipe will be cut out so I can silicon the T-shape section in. The Input Tube of the Filter will then be placed down the PVC below the water level so it can suck up water. After going through the external canister filter, the Output Tube will also go down the pipe except it will exit through the T-shape section. I will later add more PVC to position the Output Tube where I would like it so it can spout out the filtered water into a small stream over the peninsula.

All of the PVC Plumbing will be fixed so I can easily change out the smaller Input and Output tubes. By using this method, I can only use one piece of equipment but effectively filter the water and create a small water feature.

Let me know what you think and what you would do to make it better!


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## Entoherptology (May 26, 2012)

Some more plumbing progress...
I am almost done with the housing for the filter input and output tubes. This unit will be situated in the back right corner of the tank. I have decided that to connect the tubes, I am just going to use hot glue because water proof sealant is not necessary. This is due to the fact the MAX water level is only going to be to the black line with a half inch left before it would reach the next pipe were sealant would be necessary.









Side view of the housing









A little piece of PVC in place to represent where additional PVC will be added for the output tubing. This additional PVC housing will lead the output tubing to where it will pump out the water into a "stream".









A front view of what the housing will look like in the tank. Of course it will be covered with a rock wall. I'm going to make a top that resembles a fake rock so I can access the equipment inside the housing.









A top view of the housing.

Criticism, comments, suggestions, questions, clarification........


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## Ozydego (Mar 26, 2012)

I was educated and informed before my build that a 10 gallon was not the best size for a water feature or a traditional palu concept. I modified mine slightly, and now have a drip wall, but I have limited space for even 1 frog. I am now actively looking for a bigger tank to try again. I only mention this to help you with your end result and the amount of room for a frog or two (if small). First, I used way too much GS for the background, I could have cut most of that out and came out with the same effect and not wasted so much space. I put a lot of contours on the bcak wall and a false back in one corner for the pump. All this took away from the final usable space. I was going to have a pool, but then I was using too much vertical space, so I scrapped that idea. Basically what it boils down to is that in a 10 gallon space, dont try too hard to make a landscape, its not worth the extra effort in the end, plus it may limit what you can put in it. Good concept with the peninsula, plan very carefully and it could turn out great!


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## Entoherptology (May 26, 2012)

Ozydego said:


> I was educated and informed before my build that a 10 gallon was not the best size for a water feature or a traditional palu concept. I modified mine slightly, and now have a drip wall, but I have limited space for even 1 frog. I am now actively looking for a bigger tank to try again. I only mention this to help you with your end result and the amount of room for a frog or two (if small). First, I used way too much GS for the background, I could have cut most of that out and came out with the same effect and not wasted so much space. I put a lot of contours on the bcak wall and a false back in one corner for the pump. All this took away from the final usable space. I was going to have a pool, but then I was using too much vertical space, so I scrapped that idea. Basically what it boils down to is that in a 10 gallon space, dont try too hard to make a landscape, its not worth the extra effort in the end, plus it may limit what you can put in it. Good concept with the peninsula, plan very carefully and it could turn out great!


I appreciate your advice.
However, I am not planning to house dart frogs in this paludarium. The species I am housing are very similar to fire-belly frogs in both size and appearance, except Pacific Chorus Frogs are slightly smaller. Unlike dart frog vivariums, the water feature will be actively used by the frogs, so it is not necessary to limit the size of the water. In fact, I am planning to use almost the entire floor space
to hold water.

Thank you for your opinions. I will definitely take them into consideration.


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## Ozydego (Mar 26, 2012)

Oh awesome, then absolutely water, but yeah, it was real easy to run out of room, I cant wait to see this progress


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## jermajestyg (Jan 28, 2012)

ONe of the best things to do, if the frogs will actually use water and land, it make a false bottom, that instead of blocking off underneath the substrate, is high enough (about 1" above the water level) so that the frogs can use the water underneath the false bottom and have land area..

Just be careful that the water does not rise all the way up to the false bottom because not only will the substrate get soaked and the plants will probably die, but if the frogs get caught under it, they could suffocate as well. Not trying to sound dire haha

Its a great solution as long as you keep an eye on it and plan it out first...

-Jeremy


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## Entoherptology (May 26, 2012)

jermajestyg said:


> ONe of the best things to do, if the frogs will actually use water and land, it make a false bottom, that instead of blocking off underneath the substrate, is high enough (about 1" above the water level) so that the frogs can use the water underneath the false bottom and have land area..
> 
> Just be careful that the water does not rise all the way up to the false bottom because not only will the substrate get soaked and the plants will probably die, but if the frogs get caught under it, they could suffocate as well. Not trying to sound dire haha
> 
> ...


My current idea is just to use foam and cement rocks (cured of course) for the land area. I will have plants growing in cracks between the rocks, and I have read that most mosses readily adhere to the surface of the rocks. Any waste on the land area will be flushed off onto the water area where it will then be filtered of toxins and broken down by microbes.

For those that are wondering, I have finally chosen my filtration method. I am going to use a slightly modified Zoo Med 501 External Canister Filter. I am going to get rid of most of the mechanical filtration material in the unit and primarily stock it full of biological media. This is mainly because I am not very concerned about waste piling up as long as I stock the tank very richly with microbes and bacteria. In addition to that, I am going to customize the input and output tubes to fit the housing that I have built. 

For those experts out there, do you think it is reasonable to allow the waste to pile up like this? There are only going to be around 3 gallons of water that will be filtered by a very large canister filter (79 GPH) and the water area will be stocked with bacteria as I am going to let the tank circulate for about 3 to 4 weeks.

Some more progress on the housing....
It's pretty much done.









The full view of the almost completed housing.









Where the Intake Tubing will be positioned. I am going to cut a hole in the bottom and line it with mesh so the water can flow into the PVC pipe to about 3.5 inches up the pipe.









Where the Output Tubing will be positioned which will double as the source of my water feature.









A cap I am working on to seal off the water pipe from the frogs. I am going to sculpt a rock on top of it in attempt to integrate it into the rock wall.









The future inhabitants of my tank: Pacific Chorus Frogs! They are still in larval stage but the one on the top is going to morph in about a day or two.

The Ethafoam is going to arrive by Thursday so I can start the rocks!


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## Ozydego (Mar 26, 2012)

Now one thing I know a lot about is biological filtration and the nitrogen cycle. I have kept quite a few aquariums over the years and have cycled them all. In order for the waste buildup to be managed, the biological filter needs to be established. The ammonia buildup will become toxic before the nitrifying bacteria can handle it if the filter and tank are not cycled before adding fauna unless you are changing water once, maybe even twice a day. If you want to do a "fauna in" (usually called fish in cycle) be prepared for many water changes for the first month. The other cycle is known as a fishless or frogless cycle. By adding ammonia artificially to the water, you can cycle the system before adding the frogs and keep their stress levels to a minimum with a system that can process their waste. The best article I have seen about this is here: The (almost) Complete Guide and FAQ to Fishless Cycling - Aquarium Advice - Aquarium Forum Community. This should apply to your frogs as well in that they spend quite a bit of time in the water. Hope this answers a few questions


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## asid61 (Mar 18, 2012)

Ammonia cycles are usually better because it makes a larger amount of ammonia and so, more bacteria.


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## Entoherptology (May 26, 2012)

Ok, so I have decided on the plants for the build.
For the rock wall, I am making three planters for Lewisia plants. The great thing about these little plants is that they stay small with trimming and there are an abundance of hybrids that will add some variety to the build.
In the most inland section of the land area, I am going to grow a Western Sword Fern (Polystichum munitum) that will require quite a bit of trimming, but I think it will add a very nice effect to the paludarium.
Closer to the water, I am going to grow Elocharis, a boggy plant that is actually a weed around my area. It tolerates trimming very well and will grow vigorously to provide ample ground cover and aesthetic appeal.
Finally, in the water, I am going to grow duckweed and algae to feed possible tadpoles.

Construction is slow, but I will have more pictures up soon. So far I have completed siliconing the back walls, and the plumbing is completed. Next step, styrofoam!


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## jacobi (Dec 15, 2010)

Research styrofoam before you use it... it needs to be completely sealed.


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## Ozydego (Mar 26, 2012)

I had an idea instead of straight styrofoam, spray a nice big glob of GS on wax paper or the like, then slice it like bread once it cures... This way you could have the slate look of styrofoam w/o the possible chemicals, especially since some may be permanently submerged... Or just carve it out to look like slate... 

I guess it does all depend what you mean by styrofoam and how you are going to use it....


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## Entoherptology (May 26, 2012)

I'm using ethafoam and completely covering it with layers of cement and paint.


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## danny8524ever (Jan 31, 2012)

Yeah I have used GS in most of my tanks and it works great. It can be easily cut and has just always seemed a little easier to work with in my mind that anything else. It's a must for decorations and backgrounds in my tanks but to each there own.


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