# My tadpoles have arrived!



## NanoToReefs (Mar 30, 2021)

I’m super excited my tadpoles arrived yesterday! I got 4 Dendrobates Tinctorius Patricia tadpoles and they are in amazing condition.
My food line up is Repashy soilent green, Bug Bites tropical formula insect larvae and some tadpole food from the supplier of the tadpoles. I do not feed these in any specific order, it is just what I have to feed them.
The home they are going into and are actually already in is a 120 gallon vivarium build that has been fully planted and has a water areas. The vivarium stays at around 73 to 76 degrees F with 80% humidity. The water temperature is 74 to 77 degrees F.
The tadpole are in their own little cups and are checked on daily, feeding will be once every couple days and once they grow I will up it to 3 or 4 times a week. They have pieces of Java moss and almond leaf in the water with them. The Java moss to help conversion of ammonia and nitrites and the almond leaf for the tannins for its anti bacterial and anti fungal properties. Water changes will be once a week or as needed.
I’m stoked, these are the only frogs in this enclosure and they will be growing up and out of their containers into their home as they mature only knowing this as their own little paradise.






















































I will do a post in another thread about the vivarium itself.


----------



## fishingguy12345 (Apr 7, 2019)

Hello, and welcome 

I would HIGHLY recommend that you have a smaller tank for the frogs to go into after they emerge from the water. A smaller tank will help them to locate food (which is important when they are young) and then move them into their permanent home after they have grown a bit.


----------



## NanoToReefs (Mar 30, 2021)

I do have a small one on hand ready for them actually, thank you for your advice it is appreciated.


----------



## FroggerFrog (Jan 11, 2021)

Hello, welcome to the forum!


By the way, is that a fogger? Foggers can have long-term effects on dart frogs. I’d remove it unless if it’s going to be out of commission. Really only serves as a visual aspect.

Also, I see a lack of leaf litter. Leaf litter has many benefits such as extra hiding spots, drier layer, etc. The moss will be too moist for your frogs and possibly your plants. Plus, the first vivarium looks to have a wide open spot with just substrate. It looks like mud. That will be a living hell for them.


----------



## NanoToReefs (Mar 30, 2021)

Fogger yes it is, I actually have a rain system on its way and it will replace the fogger. It is there to help with humidity, but since you bring it up what kind of long term effects does it have?

As for the leaf litter I have not ordered any as of yet, the 120 has only been up a week at most. I can collect from outside but don’t want to do that. The only real reason my tadpoles are in there is because I have cats. What kinds of leaf litter do you suggest


----------



## FroggerFrog (Jan 11, 2021)

NanoToReefs said:


> Fogger yes it is, I actually have a rain system on its way and it will replace the fogger. It is there to help with humidity, but since you bring it up what kind of long term effects does it have?
> 
> As for the leaf litter I have not ordered any as of yet, the 120 has only been up a week at most. I can collect from outside but don’t want to do that. The only real reason my tadpoles are in there that was is because I have cats. What kinds of leaf litter do you suggest


I’m not sure what the effects of a rain system are. Maybe someone else can chime in?

Dart frogs take moisture through their skin and since foggers are constantly moist, they will travel to an area where the fog is non-existent. So, basically forcing the animal into a section of the viv. Constantly moist dart frogs also have an increased chance of bacterial and fungal infections. Also, since there is fog everywhere, it’ll be hard to see the frogs, which can be bad if you’re feeding them.

I personally use magnolia leaves. I order them online. (I can’t advertise a website since it’s against the sites rules.)


----------



## fishingguy12345 (Apr 7, 2019)

I believe you mean a misting system not a rain system . 

For leaf litter: most of us purchase our leaf litter. 
I like magnolia leaves, they have a nice natural curl to them that gives the frogs extra hiding places. 

Generally speaking, I aim for 60-80% humidity in my frog tanks. With my long tanks I generally make a wet and dry side to the tank but pointing the misting nozzles on my misting system towards one end (I can take pictures to show what I mean it's that helps). This gives the frogs the ability to choose where along the humidity gradient (dry, damp, wet) they want to be.


----------



## NanoToReefs (Mar 30, 2021)

oh oh well im good then,

The fogger is only on for the most of 10 mins every couple of hrs or so is has time to thin out, I will apply fans to the hood of the 120 I have ordered installing them so one will pull air out and one will put air back and those will be timed to go on every couple hrs for a couple mins opposite of the fogger timer. This will ensure proper air exchange without killing my humidity and allow them to maintain health and have dryer times so they are not constantly wet. The rain system is actually to keep my plants happy and to simulate the rainy season for breeding time and seasonal cycle. It will not be on constantly or for long periods. the most the system will go for is 1 min or so.

any benefit to the mag leaves?


----------



## NanoToReefs (Mar 30, 2021)

yes a misting system lol


----------



## FroggerFrog (Jan 11, 2021)

NanoToReefs said:


> yes a misting system lol


That’s good to know. Personally, I use a spray bottle but I’m starting to consider using a misting system instead.


NanoToReefs said:


> oh oh well im good then,
> 
> The fogger is only on for the most of 10 mins every couple of hrs or so is has time to thin out, I will apply fans to the hood of the 120 I have ordered installing them so one will pull air out and one will put air back and those will be timed to go on every couple hrs for a couple mins opposite of the fogger timer. This will ensure proper air exchange without killing my humidity and allow them to maintain health and have dryer times so they are not constantly wet. The rain system is actually to keep my plants happy and to simulate the rainy season for breeding time and seasonal cycle. It will not be on constantly or for long periods. the most the system will go for is 1 min or so.
> 
> any benefit to the mag leaves?


Like @fishingguy12345 said, they have a nice curl to them. You could use a lot of leaves, as long as you buy them from a reputable source or you boil the leaves. (baking them has an increased chance of setting your house on fire, unless if you have I guess a gas stove.)


----------



## NanoToReefs (Mar 30, 2021)

I have tons of those trees in my area and can probably get some and boil them and would feel safe., but i will look into some leaves for sure.

Yea a misting system is a good go to, it will provide more consistency for your system...though rain is never consistent. It also helps you cut down on the routine of having to water like that and frees you up to perform another task.. I believe full automation is usually best as long as its kept up. Just like the apex system for aquariums a full out system for vivariums is great. The less the human contact the less the spread of unwanted stuff.....spores are everywhere


----------



## Socratic Monologue (Apr 7, 2018)

FroggerFrog said:


> baking them has an increased chance of setting your house on fire,


I can't argue with the 'increased risk' claim, since there is certainly a slightly higher risk. That risk is very, very low, though. Out of a range of leaves tested from California trees and scrub, the lowest ignition temperature was 325F in this study:



https://www.fs.fed.us/psw/publications/weise/psw_2004_weise001.pdf



Most folks bake their leaves at ~250F.

Further, a cookies sheet of leaves on fire in a normal household oven would be contained by that oven. No data, but I heat almost entirely with wood and have no doubt about this claim -- leaves simply don't burn long enough or hot enough (a cooking stove is a very poor firebox) to compromise even the thin sheet steel of a home oven.


----------



## FroggerFrog (Jan 11, 2021)

Socratic Monologue said:


> I can't argue with the 'increased risk' claim, since there is certainly a slightly higher risk. That risk is very, very low, though. Out of a range of leaves tested from California trees and scrub, the lowest ignition temperature was 325F in this study:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Ah, science beats the sarcastic. Maybe I should of made it more clear. 

I’ve never baked anything for my tanks, I either boil things or sanitize in a whole different way. It’s good to know that it won’t set my leaves, or worse, my house on fire.

A very slight risk is still a risk. It’s like working out and watching out what you eat isn’t going to get rid of cancer. You still have a chance, just decreased. Glad it’s low though.


----------



## Kmc (Jul 26, 2019)

I love to mist with my pump sprayer. I mist everyone my reptiles env included, even if its just to bring a little delicate dewfall in the morning.

I think its one of my favorite tasks. If not the most favorite.


----------



## FroggerFrog (Jan 11, 2021)

Kmc said:


> I love to mist with my pump sprayer. I mist everyone my reptiles env included, even if its just to bring a little delicate dewfall in the morning.
> 
> I think its one of my favorite tasks. If not the most favorite.


I spray my younger cousins and family so they can stop bothering me. It works like a charm!


----------



## Louis (Apr 23, 2014)

Socratic Monologue said:


> I can't argue with the 'increased risk' claim, since there is certainly a slightly higher risk. That risk is very, very low, though. Out of a range of leaves tested from California trees and scrub, the lowest ignition temperature was 325F in this study:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Any pros and cons on boiling vs. baking leaves for a vivarium? I've always boiled, should I be baking? Is the theory that slightly higher temperatures in baking is more effective at sanitising the leaves?


----------



## Socratic Monologue (Apr 7, 2018)

Louis said:


> Any pros and cons on boiling vs. baking leaves for a vivarium? I've always boiled, should I be baking? Is the theory that slightly higher temperatures in baking is more effective at sanitising the leaves?


As far as I know, it is completely personal preference.


----------



## Kmc (Jul 26, 2019)

Steaming, boiling seems to be less likely to turn wood into brittle gray pith in what many people apt for duration.

You can make a home autoclave with some easy to find parts.


----------



## Kmc (Jul 26, 2019)

Hey there N2R,

Truly I hope you return soon to share and discuss your process with your enclosures and tads. As well as other things too. The fine tuning recommendations interacted on the thread would probably reflect your own critique looking at one of your specialty builds by a newer hand at it.

You seem like a meticulous keeper, lavish provider to your charges, one who stock piles _perfect _branches, who sees the neighbors landscaping rock only in terms of basking areas. What a waste seein em just lining a walkway! ha ha

Any way just checking in and looking forward to your input here.


----------



## NanoToReefs (Mar 30, 2021)

Thank you my friend I appreciate that comment. I am that type of keeper. I don’t watch tv and spend a lot of time in nature studying everything. I am always stock piling pieces to use in builds and am always building. I don’t stop LOL.

I have started using the same stuff zoos and mega aquariums like the Tennessee sea aquarium use for all my builds. Stuff stands up to everything even monkey urine lol.

Anyway time for the update, I’m sorry it has taken so long i can get quite busy at times.I still have all 4 tads and they have easily doubled if not tripled in size. I went from changing their water once a week and feeding them 2 tiny algae pellets to changing their water once every 3 days and feeding them 5 pellets and dried larvae bits twice a week.

The 120 is doing great, it’s grown in a lot and all the plants and moss are taking hold beautifully. I have added a misting system and got my fans in place. I have a timer In place but don’t use it much. In the since I’m so hands on. I only run the misting system for 40 seconds at most every other day to every few days depending on season I am attempting to simulate. I find just plugging it in manually is easier because of the short period I run it. I have running water in the 120 and so don’t need to run the misting system for a long time. The rock bed allows the water to flow from one side to the other watering my plants. The rock bed is high enough that the water level doesn’t touch my soil bed. I have contoured the enclosure so that there is a water channel down the center with a widened area at the end farthest from the water reservoir. This channels water will rise and fall with seasons i simulate. This works as water leaves the reservoir through evap and plant use. The channel will dry up as the reservoir evaps, then it fills back when I top off the reservoir.

I am not in anyway affiliated with this fan or company, but I’m gonna have to brag about these AC Infinity Fans I got. They are dual fans connected as a one. They are super super quite and move a lot of air. They are controlled by a switch with High, Medium and Low settings and can be turned completely off. There are two usb plugs, one is made to connect a thermal sensor or more fans where the other is for the AC adapter plug.

I have mine on my 120 one blowing in and one pulling air out. I can never hear them running and never need to be past a medium setting.

Anyway enough of my jabbering, here are some images I took for everyone today...sorry for the crappy quailty. I need to break out my pro camera when the sun goes down and the only light on are the 120.










Tadpoles getting so big.










This an over head shot without a the lights on.










Side view...again sorry for the crappy image.










This shot is from end to end.










This is the end puddle that evaps to dry bed during simulation.










for now the tadpoles are in their tupper wears in the dri-able creek bed. There almond leaves are new as they just got fresh everything today.










This is the water res, it is accompanied by a background i built with a waterfall. Its separated by black filter sponge to keep out the rocks and soil but allow water to flow without hassle. This allows me to make the tidal area i spoke of earlier. I also have wood against the foam as a way for anything that enters the water to climb out on and back to land, there is more than enough ways out.










These are my mister heads. I bought a pourch misting system with pump and connected it up...no need for the super 100+ dollar ones, i spent 50 bucks got pump, line, heads, the whole nine yards. I have 2 heads per side and one per end for a total of 6. I still have like 8 heads i didnt have to use and tons of replacement parts because i didnt need the whole roll that came with the kit.










and these are my fans of choice. As mentioned above amazing fans and only paid 25 bucks for them.

I'm sorry for so many large images next time i will down size them for a better fit, but for now just wanted to get something up for everyone who was waiting.


----------



## bssknox (Apr 24, 2017)

One thing to consider, if you haven't already, is where you plan to dump your fruit flies and at what time. You have a sizable puddle on one end and the open reservoir on the other. If the puddle is still remotely wet when you feed you'll have dead flies in no time. Might be a good idea to figure out a plan for feeding location ahead of time and even dump a small amount in certain places to see how it goes.


----------



## NanoToReefs (Mar 30, 2021)

I will definitely keep that in mind and make plans around it thank you for bringing it up.

so far my flightless fruit flies are a pain in my ass. In one of my many aquariums I have dwarf hatchetfish and they too eat fruit flies along with some of my other fish. They are a major pain in my ass cause they are not wingless and fly or as I say jump and glide with style. I can’t drown them no matter how I try to do it, they walk on the water tension and evade the fish that don’t notice them right away. I have even gone as far as putting some in a test tube filled halfway with water and shook them so I could get them to the unaware fish and that didn’t work. They all came out squeaky clean and climbed up the glass and out the tanks.

when I dump some into my Starry Night Reed Frog vivarium they walk on the water and all climb up the glass find the tiniest wholes and get all over the place lol. They are a pain to feed but easy to get.

Crickets are what I keep my eye on most. I have found more of those drowned than the flies but it’s only like one of two every time I feed.

if you have any suggestions on feeding fruit flies I’m up for listening.


----------



## Socratic Monologue (Apr 7, 2018)

NanoToReefs said:


> if you have any suggestions on feeding fruit flies I’m up for listening.


Culture wingless ones instead? 

I agree, flightless FFs are a challenge to tolerate.


----------



## NanoToReefs (Mar 30, 2021)

Lol rite, I suppose that is what I’ll have to do. I have been thinking about it guess I’ll have to try my hand at them. I have cultured lots of different foods but never fruit flies except on my counter when I didn’t want to.

would you happen to have a good source for a starter culture?


----------



## Socratic Monologue (Apr 7, 2018)

NanoToReefs said:


> would you happen to have a good source for a starter culture?



Whatever vendor offers the best shipping rates and policies for your situation (I"m a fan of overnight, when the price is right), and hopefully has some other things that you need that can ride along in the box. I like to support businesses that support our hobby specifically -- so Black Jungle, Josh's, NE Herp, and those sorts of businesses.


----------



## NanoToReefs (Mar 30, 2021)

I use Josh’s a 80% of the time and I will look there thanks.

have you ever cultivated wingless? If so can I ask about the medium used. I think I have an idea for a medium but would rather hear what people have tried and been successful at.


----------



## Socratic Monologue (Apr 7, 2018)

I use NE Herp's media currently. I've also used Josh's and Repashy with good results.


----------



## NanoToReefs (Mar 30, 2021)

Thank you i will look into those sources, i appreciate it


----------



## NanoToReefs (Mar 30, 2021)

upon farther research it turns out the culture media is really no different than micro worms. Everything from mash potato's to oatmeal, some yeast and apple cider vinegar. I just watched a guy make a culture media using a little bit of boiling water, two cherry tomatos, 4 spoon fulls of oatmeal, 2 1/2 spoon fulls of apple cider vinegar and he blended it up into a thick soup. He put a few spoon fulls of the mixture into a breeding vessel and topped it with yeast. He proceeded to put a coffee filter down into the mush and then added his flies. He had a ton of larvae in 5 days.

has anyone tried this method? Sounds like with very slight alterations this mixture would work for both micro worms and fruit flies. I am going to try it so ill keep everyone updated.


----------



## Kmc (Jul 26, 2019)

There are going to be dead fruit flies putrifying in the submerged wood fissures. Its unavoidable from what can be seen. Its a bad foster for the health of the frogs.


----------



## Kmc (Jul 26, 2019)

Ok im going to write this out and research it as you will. 

In situs of continual influx of decomposing bio matter especially proteins and fats, that have not been broken down into waste materials ie excreta, putrification happens fast. This is why floodwater in disaster situations is such a contact hazard, to exemplify the point in human circumstances which i greatly dislike resorting to. 

Some controls in environment biohygiene strategy are to make any surfaces in contact with the water body simplistic, devoid of inlets, fissures, trap texture.

It can be more trouble than its worth for a species that does not require such a water body at all.


----------



## NanoToReefs (Mar 30, 2021)

Ok so update, everything is doing great. I was pulling them out to water change them and feed them and noticed they all have back legs now and are still eating like champs. This is too cool to watch them grow. I’m excited to start seeing color down the road but it will be a bit yet. The plants are going nuts, they are benefiting from the nutrients I add to the reservoir.
I have been a little busy past week or so creating this new enclosure or I would have responded sooner.



















This enclosure is 48 3/4 x 18 1/4 and has been sealed like an aquarium with silicone, then coated in flex seal on the inside. The background is made from the same stuff zoo exhibits are. The inside is water proof, there is a layer of black aquarium foam on the bottom to keep the places that will hold soil from becoming a swamp while watering the plants. Like using rocks but done in foam. The reason for the foam over rocks was not only water flow but I wanted the over all build to be lite and not have a heavy bottom. Once covered in soil and fully set up you wouldn’t see it either way, but now also won’t feel it.
I will be decking this thing out with plants and using it as a grow out tank for my froglets. They will have all the vitamins A and B they need from the light but not be overly hot. I still don’t have my front plexy on it yet but I will add that when I am fully finished. The vents in the back can be piped or plugged for airflow control. This thing will be 100% sealable if I choose and nothing I feed these frogs will escape.... ok ok I’m sure something will find away but it won’t be easy


----------



## Socratic Monologue (Apr 7, 2018)

NanoToReefs said:


> They will have all the vitamins A and B they need from the light


Neither Vitamin A nor any of the B complex vitamins are synthesized or converted using light. Both must be supplied in the diet. If you mean Vitamin D, that requires UVB, which isn't supplied by LED lighting.


----------



## NanoToReefs (Mar 30, 2021)

Not an led light



















and yes uva and uvb for vitamin d


----------



## Kmc (Jul 26, 2019)

The white lights, if they are the reference to being an ultraviolet inclusive per index appear to be enclosed by a plastic panel which disables passing of uvb wavelengths. 

I also do not recognize them by their configuration and I would not use any lamp that is not included in Dr Francis Baines UVB studies of UVB and product. 

I have raised groups of late stage metamorphs and froglets using uvb in a carefully positioned and distanced 'Slice" of optional exposure-to-cover strategy. Using a UVB inclusive bulb can cause stressful hypervigilence. Using them astutely placed grows them out strong and fast. Faster than without it. I speculate this is replicant to benefit in native circumstances. My most significant comparisons have been with CB hylids however.

Most of the time, if used casually with the 'idea' that they are good, they are too far distanced to be useful, and misplaced in exposure to be an optional resource, so they hide or show no comparative growth difference, from supplier and breeders that did not use the lights because of expense and pia details.


----------



## Socratic Monologue (Apr 7, 2018)

I can't quite tell from the photo, but those look to be either DE HQI or quartz halogen?


----------



## NanoToReefs (Mar 30, 2021)

I’ll get you the specs on it soon I’m at my second job, the bulbs have no plastic covering and there are one uva and uvb bulbs. There is a blue halogen and a red. The red is to maintain warmth in the night while I believe the blue is for day warmth. The light is only 18 inches from the floor of the enclosure. The main use for the tropical uv lights are to hopefully provide enough without having to constantly powder their food. 

I have been reading lately there has been in influx of people who are having their frogs come down for feeding then within minutes of feeding they are dropping dead. The thing they all have in common in complaints is their frogs are healthy and the consistency is they are all powdering their food before this happens. I personally don’t know why that would be or if powdering their food is doing it but I’m sure their is something very common between everyone with the use of hand sanitizer and all the precautions with keeping clean. The aquarium business has seen a mass influx of peoples fish dropping dead for no reasons and these reports though common for some has came in a huge influx when the pandemic kicked off and everyone was using sanitizer heavily. Is this the reason I’m not sure but this is where I’d start looking.

I am super anal about contact with my frogs and stress to my little girl they are not holding pets but instead eye candy. I am mainly like this because of how easy it is to spread bad stuff through contact. I am also like this because if something happens to them it will only be my fault.


----------



## Kmc (Jul 26, 2019)

Youre frogs will die of deficiencies if you rely on the lights shown. 

Even if they were Baines approved brands (per measured studies) they will not do what you are hoping.


----------



## Kmc (Jul 26, 2019)

Its clear you are a skillful builder and have other talents unexplored here in sharing opportunity.

But your caveats are dangerous to outcome.

The good new is you are in the right place and many people here can share with you well founded knowledge for raising froglets, and using supplements.

Weak specimens especially can certainly benefit from micromanagement models not often discussed. 

As for the dropping dead thing. I would say just dont touch the powder and cover the crix lightly white no need to encrust.


----------



## NanoToReefs (Mar 30, 2021)

I appreciate your comment. No I don’t plan on those lights giving all proper elements just an aid to add to what they get. I wasn’t sure if the lights would actually do anything but provide extra for plants and is the main goal of them. I figured they would provide a little extra to the frogs but not fully.


----------



## Socratic Monologue (Apr 7, 2018)

NanoToReefs said:


> I have been reading lately there has been in influx of people who are having their frogs come down for feeding then within minutes of feeding they are dropping dead. The thing they all have in common in complaints is their frogs are healthy and the consistency is they are all powdering their food before this happens.


I've never heard this, and I doubt very much that it is true. There is absolutely no acute health risk involved in supplementing prey items with mainstream commercial vitamin/mineral supplements.


----------



## fishingguy12345 (Apr 7, 2019)

NanoToReefs said:


> I have been reading lately there has been in influx of people who are having their frogs come down for feeding then within minutes of feeding they are dropping dead. The thing they all have in common in complaints is their frogs are healthy and the consistency is they are all powdering their food before this happens.


Can you provide sources for this statement? 

Haven't seen any influx of this on this forum


----------



## NanoToReefs (Mar 30, 2021)

No it’s not on this forum it’s on a face book page my wife follows that is all about frogs and poison dart frogs and she shows me these things and what not. I will happily get you any of them if possible to share them. I don’t have a Facebook though, I don’t believe in it lol

As of the powdering hurting them I agree to the notion that the supplement is not the cause. I believe it could be due to chemical cross contamination due to sanitation procedures or other outside influences. I have been using powder supplements for years and years and never felt it to be the cause of any issues I have had with any animals I have had. I am new to keeping frog as personal pets but have cared for them in retail settings quite a bit and would always dust my crickets before feeding, again never noticing an issue. Personally I’d think if the dusting covered the crickets to the point they looked like southern deep fry before it hits the fryer then that could possibly make their mouths sticky and cause issues.

I personally wouldn’t take any word of those stories unless I got to pick the brain of the person personally to see what they did leading up to the moment, but with that said I also want to try to have as much in place before something is discovered.... to be fair that enclosure was built way before I ever read any of these stories and the light bought in hopes to offset the supplement if possible


----------



## Kmc (Jul 26, 2019)

It sounds like it was an alarming read, and you have directed alot of sweat and ponder to not have anything go wrong with your tads.

Especially after seeing those legs pop out.


----------



## NanoToReefs (Mar 30, 2021)

I started building the enclosure before I put together my 120 but just finished it out today with the clear coat. It is an alarming read to see people have this problem, but I don’t fear I’ll have this issue. I just don’t want to run into it either. I am a person who try’s not to give un natural diets or additives to diets if possible. I’m always looking for and testing different methods and this is why I may be attacked per say as I’m always doing something off kilter to common practice. If it just seems unhealthy I’ll avoid it, but I want to mimic natural as much as possible.


----------



## Kmc (Jul 26, 2019)

Since this is your first time in this particular area of herpetoculture it may be a good idea to put together a list of say, 5 most Important Questions you have, and ask them. 
Enrichment media for keeper,


----------



## Socratic Monologue (Apr 7, 2018)

NanoToReefs said:


> Personally I’d think if the dusting covered the crickets to the point they looked like southern deep fry before it hits the fryer then that could possibly make their mouths sticky and cause issues.


Excess supplement simply falls off when the prey item hits the ground. It really isn't possible to get too much supplement dust to stick to an insect -- again, as always, I'm talking about quality mainstream supplements. People on FB could very well be dusting with Tide Pods.

Still curious about these lights, BTW. Looks like something new to the hobby, and I'm interested to learn.


----------



## Kmc (Jul 26, 2019)

Tide pods thats funny.
It could also be just plain made up. There is no accountability on Facefarce and people can just be trouble stirring. Even pathological.

Not to harp but I swear i see a screwed in panel. Maybe its not plastic but glass is a blocker. 

Im not a more is better kind of cat but if there is an aversive amount of supp it can make guys be picky. 

There is nothing to worry about with Rapashy supplements. You can trust them. Its understandable to worry. Precaution for a keeper is like good legs for a boxer. 

Worry is sticky. But let it stick elsewhere as its a time and energy burner for sure. 

Identifying the primary questions one has when embarking on a new keeping experience is a surgical self teaching tool.


----------



## Kmc (Jul 26, 2019)

Im feeling ornamentally communicative today sorry


----------



## NanoToReefs (Mar 30, 2021)

Hey guys sorry it’s been so long, I have been super busy with creating backgrounds I haven’t stopped by in a while. The Tad poles are now frogs, they all came out of their little bowls one a day into their enclosure. I decided to leave them in there rather than taking them out. I have all 4 still and they are very active. They really see to enjoy exploring their home and having so much room to play. They run around eating bugs all day lol it’s funny to watch. I have been feeding them fruit flies small crickets and they love isopods and springtails they catch running across the enclosure. I have two that always stay together and over on the right side of the tank, then the other two stay separated from each other and the two the stick together. I believe they are way to young to say they like each other like that but I’m no frog and have no idea why they like each other so much at a young age besides protection in numbers.
Anyway everything is going good in my system, the plant are growing in nice and setting in. I have been keeping the water level in the res low so it keeps the center channel damp but not flooded. I have Java moss covering the entire bottom of the channel and is like a mat that allows the frogs save passage without any sand or nasty sticking to them. It also consumes and water waste by converting it as it would in an aquarium setting. I haven’t had any issues with flies drowning or crickets, they have not made it into the water res even if they don’t get eatin or at least I haven’t found any that get in there if they do. Water stays filtered anyway.
Again sorry it took so long to reply just been very busy


----------

