# Best handheld glass cutter



## rmelancon (Apr 5, 2004)

Looking for recommendations on a quality hand held glass cutter. I'm considering the Gold Tip Designer II Glass Cutter from Fletcher but would like to hear what others use. I have tried the cheap glass cutters you get off the shelf at places like Lowes and have no luck with them. I also considered a wet cut tile saw but seems like the glass would just shatter (especially thin glass) as soon as the blade hit. Thanks, Robb


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## edwing206 (Apr 9, 2008)

Tagging along. I've been wanting to pick up a quality glass cutter as well.


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## Pumilo (Sep 4, 2010)

I've been working with glass for half my life. I own a glass repair service in Denver, CO. Fletcher is the best hand held glass cutter you can buy "over the counter". There are better industrial ones...Oil filled, changeable heads, etc. but I don't even bother with those. Get the Fletcher. Any Fletcher. Make sure your protect the head/wheel. A little light oil on the wheel each time you cut extends the useful life. Never "overlap" a score line or you instantly ruin your cutter. Do your cutting on a piece of wood so when you reach the end of the cut and the wheel comes off the glass hard, it hits wood instead of something hard that will ruin the tip.
Doug
Redacted at users request
P.S. Lowe's and Home Depot don't carry them anymore. ACE Hardware's got you covered!


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## John1451 (Jun 6, 2011)

Rob how is that great big enclosure you built doing?


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## Brotherly Monkey (Jul 20, 2010)

what exactly do you mean by "overlap"?


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## tahir tareen (Dec 17, 2009)

Brotherly Monkey said:


> what exactly do you mean by "overlap"?


if he means scoring a line more than once then i can see why my cheap cutter from lowes is crap now. I am used to acrylic and plexiglass so i tried to score it deep, didnt work too well!


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## Brotherly Monkey (Jul 20, 2010)

tahir tareen said:


> if he means scoring a line more than once then i can see why my cheap cutter from lowes is crap now. I am used to acrylic and plexiglass so i tried to score it deep, didnt work too well!


is it a kobalt? had some issues with mine, as well. But could have been technique related, since it was my first attempt at cutting (though didn't have issues when the guy was showing how to cut when I bought some glass)


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## tahir tareen (Dec 17, 2009)

correct, kobalt six-wheeled cutter. i believe technique was a problem but also its a cheap product, like most of what kobalt makes.


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## Frogart (Dec 24, 2011)

I use Toyo brand


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## SMenigoz (Feb 17, 2004)

Somewhat appropriate timing--I just re-cut a glass framework extending the top of an Oceanic Lizard Lounge tank by 6". 
I was using very thin glass purchased at Home Depot; initially relied on the old glass cutter in my toolbox.
First cut on the new glass= cracked 
Off to HD for a new cutter,oil dip
First cut with the new cutter= perfect

Lessons learned: 
A sharp tool cuts best
Staying on a straight line "free hand" is difficult, and trying to set up a straight edge guide is frustrating.

Moving forward:
Is there a product the average consumer can purchase thats similar to what the hardware stores use to score glass? Like a draftman's table with a straightedge/cutter affixed? Just line up your intended score line under it, draw the guided cutter across the glass, and presto, a straight cut? 
Scott


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## oneshot (Mar 5, 2010)

SMenigoz said:


> Is there a product the average consumer can purchase thats similar to what the hardware stores use to score glass? Like a draftman's table with a straightedge/cutter affixed? Just line up your intended score line under it, draw the guided cutter across the glass, and presto, a straight cut?
> Scott


FWIW, I found it easiest to clamp a straight-edge over the glass, making sure I stay on the edge for a straight line....


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## SamsonsFrogs (Mar 4, 2009)

oneshot said:


> FWIW, I found it easiest to clamp a straight-edge over the glass, making sure I stay on the edge for a straight line....


I do the same thing when I build tank covers for my vivs.


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## MeiKVR6 (Sep 16, 2008)

Toyo pistol grip... The best inexpensive cutter I've used. Went through a bunch of cheap-o versions from lowes/depot etc... The only one that's consistent for me was that pistol grip Toyo. Awesome tool for ~$35

Edit: http://store.allstainedglass.com/pisgripsup.html $30!

Edit again: We use pneumatic tool oil in the gun with great results. Tried the heavier/lighter stuff, but the tool oil makes for easy cleanup and a quick cut.


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## Judy S (Aug 29, 2010)

off topic...glad to see you are still on the board, your information has helped greatly in the past...still would love to see your frog room.... For Scott...


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## SMenigoz (Feb 17, 2004)

Judy S said:


> off topic...glad to see you are still on the board, your information has helped greatly in the past...still would love to see your frog room.... For Scott...


Thanks Judy! I open up my collection for all those who attend the MADS meetings, but certainly is not limited to "members". Maybe we'll organize another meet this spring.
I still consider myself a lurker on this board, reading far more things than I respond to. 
Scott


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## Pumilo (Sep 4, 2010)

Brotherly Monkey said:


> what exactly do you mean by "overlap"?


Scoring a line more than once. One single, smooth line is how it should be done. We all make mistakes and lets say you accidently skip 1/4" at the beginning of a score. If you go back and re-score it, and your cutter so much as barely touches your original score, it could very well ruin your cutting wheel. I keep an old, not so perfect, glass cutter around for just such mistakes. Be aware that while this may fix the problem and give you a smooth cut, it may also be just enough to make the cut go askew at that point.



tahir tareen said:


> if he means scoring a line more than once then i can see why my cheap cutter from lowes is crap now. I am used to acrylic and plexiglass so i tried to score it deep, didnt work too well!


You don't need to score glass very deep for it too work. A little too much pressure and you'll crack the glass. Even and smooth is always better than deep when working with glass. I guess you already figured that out though!



Brotherly Monkey said:


> is it a kobalt? had some issues with mine, as well. But could have been technique related, since it was my first attempt at cutting (though didn't have issues when the guy was showing how to cut when I bought some glass)


Kobalt truly makes a bunch of crap. If they would spend half as much effort making a quality tool as they spend on making it pretty and wrapped in blue rubber, they might come up with a decent product. To date, I have returned almost every Kobalt tool I've purchased. At least they will always take it back without a receipt when you explain that you were looking for a tool and if you wanted one of these you could have picked one up from the backyard where your dog deposits his dinner!
That said, I have purchased cutters that I couldn't get a single good cut from even while brand new. The Kobalt, single wheel cutter will at least be serviceable for a while so there may have been a problem with your technique. Remember that you need to clean your glass along the line to be scored first and also that a bit of oil will make a world of difference in your cut. I have been stuck on a job before without any oil. I pulled the dipstick from my trucks engine and wiped it on my fingers, then applied that to the cutter! It did the trick in a pinch! Any oil should really work fine, even vegetable oil is better than nothing.



tahir tareen said:


> correct, kobalt six-wheeled cutter. i believe technique was a problem but also its a cheap product, like most of what kobalt makes.


I haven't seen their 6 wheeled cutter. Not sure if that gives you 6 times as much chance for success or if it simply makes it smell like you have 6 dogs in the backyard!



Frogart said:


> I use Toyo brand


I have never used a Toyo but they are carried by some of the high end glass tool and part suppliers so I would assume they are a quality product.



SMenigoz said:


> Somewhat appropriate timing--I just re-cut a glass framework extending the top of an Oceanic Lizard Lounge tank by 6".
> I was using very thin glass purchased at Home Depot; initially relied on the old glass cutter in my toolbox.
> First cut on the new glass= cracked
> Off to HD for a new cutter,oil dip
> ...


Thanks Scott, for pointing out the importance of that oil dip. With enough experience you can cut dry but it is harder and you will wear you tool out quickly. Don't try it. A quick oil dip is crucial.
Forget about freehand. Leave that for people doing abstract stained glass cuts. 
The easiest way to this with tools you probably already have is this. Measure properly and line up your straight edge tool. (your tool can be a metal yardstick or a T-square) Remember that your cutting wheel is about an 1/8" away from the edge of the tool so your straight edge needs to be about an 1/8" away from the line you wish to cut on. No get some wide masking tape or duct tape and tape that sucker down! This makes it so much easier to cut on you will be amazed. Now it takes much less effort to hold it in place with your left hand, while cutting with your right hand. Remember to apply light pressure towards the straight edge, in order to keep your tool up against it so it doesn't wander off to the other side of the cut.

A tool like they use at the hardware store starts at about $1,400 bucks!! How about a T-square with an oil cutter built in? It's called a Speed T-cutter. You lock the cutter in place and then you slide the T-square along the edge of the glass. The T edge is guided by a series of rollers. It allows you to make the same width of cut, over and over again, quickly and easily. I haven't used one myself as I am usually looking to do different widths with each cut and taping a T square down works nicely. Here is a link to the product though. 
PTC12 - CRL 12" Production Oil-Feed T-Cutter 
PTC24 - CRL 24" Production Oil-Feed T-Cutter
48" (120cm) Speed T-Cutter for Production Glass Cutting | eBay

It has frustrated me for years that nobody makes a proper, portable, straight edge, glass cutter. I even have the perfect design in my head. It would be simple, effective, cutting perfectly straight lines every time. And it could be produced and sold for probably less than $150.


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## poison beauties (Mar 1, 2010)

If your building a viv I'd consider a speed cutter, you can get them in 24 and 48'' setups. Others than that I use an oil filled Toro cutter. A verticle straight cut is needed and the speed cutter will take care of that. Id also invest in a small belt sander.

Michael


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## SMenigoz (Feb 17, 2004)

Pumilo said:


> Forget about freehand.
> A tool like they use at the hardware store starts at about $1,400 bucks!! How about a T-square with an oil cutter built in? It's called a Speed T-cutter.
> It has frustrated me for years that nobody makes a proper, portable, straight edge, glass cutter. I even have the perfect design in my head. It would be simple, effective, cutting perfectly straight lines every time. And it could be produced and sold for probably less than $150.


Doug,
Thanks for the spot-on advice! I'll look into the links you provided, but it sounds like the right cutter, combined with practice, will allow me to make repeated cuts where I want them to go.
Any tips to seam the edges? I use sandpaper.
Scott


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## Pumilo (Sep 4, 2010)

SMenigoz said:


> Doug,
> Thanks for the spot-on advice! I'll look into the links you provided, but it sounds like the right cutter, combined with practice, will allow me to make repeated cuts where I want them to go.
> Any tips to seam the edges? I use sandpaper.
> Scott


Any time Scott. Michael is right on target with a small belt sander. Around 80 grit will smooth the edges VERY fast, with only one or two passes. It won't be beautiful though. 150 or 220 will give a smoother edge but will take a few more passes. Regular belts will work but will eat up the sanding belt pretty quickly. There are industrial glass grinding belts available but they are only sold in 10 packs and you have to have a business license. Honestly, I only smooth the edges of vivs I'm building so I just use belts sold over the counter at Lowe's.
A Random Orbital Sander with 220 will give even smoother, better looking results but will take more time and effort.

Hmm, how about taking a T square and applying a rubber coating to the back so that it "sticks" somewhat to the glass? I might have to work on that.


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## phender (Jan 9, 2009)

I have a metal ruler that has a very thin piece of cork stuck to the back. I imagine they sell them at drafting supply stores. It works very well for cutting glass.

Edit: Here you go http://www.fairgate.com/Standard-T-Squares-English--Cork-Backed_c_42.html


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## oneshot (Mar 5, 2010)

hey doug, any chance you could make a quick video tutorial on glass cutting?

When the kids are in bed, I'll take a pic of my way, but you're obviously the most experienced....

Just a thought.


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## Pumilo (Sep 4, 2010)

oneshot said:


> hey doug, any chance you could make a quick video tutorial on glass cutting?
> 
> When the kids are in bed, I'll take a pic of my way, but you're obviously the most experienced....
> 
> Just a thought.



Gonna make me try to figure out moving pictures, huh? I'm just a poor old dinosaur! I can't even figure out the DVD player without instructions from the wife or kids! We did get some kind of small "moving picture" recorder for Christmas. Maybe I can get Max to record it and see if he can figure out how to attach it.


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## carbonetc (Oct 13, 2008)

Pumilo said:


> It has frustrated me for years that nobody makes a proper, portable, straight edge, glass cutter. I even have the perfect design in my head. It would be simple, effective, cutting perfectly straight lines every time. And it could be produced and sold for probably less than $150.


Sounds like you should meet up with an engineer and start a side business.


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## poison beauties (Mar 1, 2010)

Pumilo said:


> It has frustrated me for years that nobody makes a proper, portable, straight edge, glass cutter. I even have the perfect design in my head. It would be simple, effective, cutting perfectly straight lines every time. And it could be produced and sold for probably less than $150.


I have thought the same thing, I even thought about some type of roller system or sliding setup on each side of the blade or handle to keep it cutting at a perfect 90


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## itsott (Nov 25, 2010)

I wish i could figure it out. I need a straight edge cutter.


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## poison beauties (Mar 1, 2010)

This would help you out, It would take care of most average sized vivs.
48" (120cm) Speed T-Cutter for Production Glass Cutting | eBay


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## Pumilo (Sep 4, 2010)

poison beauties said:


> This would help you out, It would take care of most average sized vivs.
> 48" (120cm) Speed T-Cutter for Production Glass Cutting | eBay


I linked to that earlier, plus a couple links to the same thing that are not through eBay. I don't like that you slide the whole tool across the edge of the glass. I would prefer that the tool were stationary, suction cupping to the glass, then you would pull the cutter down the longer leg of the T. 
Your link expires in 5 minutes and 18 seconds.


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## poison beauties (Mar 1, 2010)

Yeah I didnt notice the time left on it. I agree on the idea of suction cups holding the unit to the glass. I would also like to see some kind of track that could be mounted to a work table that would guide a hand cutter. I currently use a 48'' tsquare lined coated with the rubber electrical tape under it. 
Here is the speed cutters I have. 24 and 48'' setups.

PSC200 - CRL 24" Production Speed Cutter


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## itsott (Nov 25, 2010)

What does that one set you back?


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## poison beauties (Mar 1, 2010)

was about 250 shipped I believe for both of them. Had to have a business account to buy from them. When I finish with a viv and replacing a few window panes I will ship them down Jason.


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## Pumilo (Sep 4, 2010)

poison beauties said:


> Yeah I didnt notice the time left on it. I agree on the idea of suction cups holding the unit to the glass. I would also like to see some kind of track that could be mounted to a work table that would guide a hand cutter. I currently use a 48'' tsquare lined coated with the rubber electrical tape under it.
> Here is the speed cutters I have. 24 and 48'' setups.
> 
> PSC200 - CRL 24" Production Speed Cutter


Yeah, I actually linked to the upgraded one that has an oil reservoir. The one that Michael linked to is $110.26 plus shipping as of earlier today. You do need a business license and account for them to sell to you.


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## poison beauties (Mar 1, 2010)

Your on top of your game on this one Doug, I missed that post but yeah an oil resevoir wouldnt be a bad upgrade.


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## itsott (Nov 25, 2010)

Gotta love it when they require a buisness license.


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## Pumilo (Sep 4, 2010)

itsott said:


> Gotta love it when they require a buisness license.


I can understand it. Why should I buy from them in bulk at wholesale prices if they are going to undercut me and sell directly to my customers?


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## itsott (Nov 25, 2010)

Didnt think about it that way. Maybe i will harass my roommate to come up with something.


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## SnakePaparazzi (Jul 20, 2008)

Pumilo said:


> Get the Fletcher. Any Fletcher. Make sure your protect the head/wheel. A little light oil on the wheel each time you cut extends the useful life. Never "overlap" a score line or you instantly ruin your cutter. Do your cutting on a piece of wood so when you reach the end of the cut and the wheel comes off the glass hard, it hits wood instead of something hard that will ruin the tip.
> Doug


Thanks Doug!!! I've never cut glass... Until tonight... I went and bought a Fletcher at ACE for $5.95. I've made 4 cuts so far tonight and not a mistake or broken glass!

I'm going to try and bore a hole now... 



---
I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=34.022615,-117.120843


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## Pumilo (Sep 4, 2010)

SnakePaparazzi said:


> Thanks Doug!!! I've never cut glass... Until tonight... I went and bought a Fletcher at ACE for $5.95. I've made 4 cuts so far tonight and not a mistake or broken glass!
> 
> I'm going to try and bore a hole now...
> 
> ...


Excellent! http://www.dendroboard.com/forum/parts-construction/58594-how-drill-your-glass.html


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## SnakePaparazzi (Jul 20, 2008)

Thanks! Looks like I need to get more supplies tomorrow!


---
I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=34.022623,-117.120762


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## VicSkimmr (Jan 24, 2006)

MeiKVR6 said:


> Toyo pistol grip... The best inexpensive cutter I've used. Went through a bunch of cheap-o versions from lowes/depot etc... The only one that's consistent for me was that pistol grip Toyo. Awesome tool for ~$35
> 
> Edit: Toyo Pistol Grip SuperCutter $30!
> 
> Edit again: We use pneumatic tool oil in the gun with great results. Tried the heavier/lighter stuff, but the tool oil makes for easy cleanup and a quick cut.


This is what I use too, I love it.


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## NathanB (Jan 21, 2008)

Scott, did you end up getting that square? I'm looking for something similar.


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## Pumilo (Sep 4, 2010)

Here is a link to my latest glass cutting "toy". VCR48 - CRL 48" Phenolic Straight Edge with Suction Cups It is a 4 foot straight edge with built in suction cups to hold it to the glass. Unfortunately, it is not made in a "T-square" format, so you have to make sure to line it up straight. Once it is lined up, you flip a lever at each end to engage the suction cup. It then holds the straight edge in perfect position and makes the cut smooth and simple. It has been working beautifully for me.
Unfortunately, CR Laurence does require a business license and account to sell to you. Of course, knowing the product name, you can always find them up on eBay and elsewhere. 48" Phenolic Straight Edge with Suction Cups | eBay


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## NathanB (Jan 21, 2008)

How well does that work for smaller pieces, 24" is about as long a cut I'm planning on


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## Pumilo (Sep 4, 2010)

NathanB said:


> How well does that work for smaller pieces, 24" is about as long a cut I'm planning on


It's too big for that but a piece only 24" is pretty simple with just a straight edge and maybe a couple pieces of tape.


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## NathanB (Jan 21, 2008)

That's what I figured, what's the best straight Edge /tape? I used an old steel square and masking tape but it still moved around as I was cutting. Do the better cutters need less pressure than the cheapo ones from HD?


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## Martin Cooper (Apr 15, 2020)

Frogart said:


> I use Toyo brand


Same! Been using them for years. I use the TOYO TC20 purchased from Ecohold, and would recommend them.
https://ecohold.co.uk/product-category/glass-cutters/


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