# coco fiber background question



## Basketbreaker (Sep 30, 2005)

Some of the coco fiber on my great stuff background is starting to fall off a little revealing the white under neath. Aside from removing my animals for x amount of time and re-siliconing/applying fibers, is there a better way to fix the problem? I'd prefer to not have to remove animals.

Thanks,
Mike


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## Mohlerbear (Feb 20, 2014)

You could try jamming some sphagnum moss where it's falling off or even holding the moss up with floral wire pressed into the background. 


Loading bowls and building vivs! Braaap!
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## pdfCrazy (Feb 28, 2012)

We just got done stripping 20+ tanks that were cocoa fiber or tight bond. We didnt do the tanks originally, and honestly never will use this method. Every one we've seen is peeling, shedding or cracking. GS expands over time, and it never bonds with the glass. The cork mosaic is a much better alternative and will last much longer. GS/peat and/or tight bond look good initially, they just never keep the good looks


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## Igofastr (Jan 16, 2015)

Well,

I can't address the original poster's issues. But, I've had pretty good experience with GS. I agree that cork attached with silicone looks great and lasts, GS can last too. I have several tanks that are 6-7 years old, and the GS is sticking just fine. In fact, I used it to hold good sized chunks of wood extending out from my backgrounds, and they are solid as ever today.

I think a couple of things might be key...one, the surface has to be CLEAN for anything to stick to it. Two, you actually have to get the GS to make good contact...you can't always just squirt it on and hope for the best. I sometimes put a little on my gloved hand, squirt some on the glass, RUB IT AROUND, and then apply the 3-D coat. Finally, and I don't know if this matters...probably not, but I always surround and cover the GS with silicone.

What I have found is that GS does not stick to silicone very well, and in some instances, silicone doesn't want to stick to GS. But silicone does stick to silicone, so sometimes you have to make a "silicone sandwich" if you are applying GS over a silicone base.

Not that any of this addresses the OP's problem. But, I bet a LITTLE GS squirted behind the loose fiber would add some strength. I would shoot some in, mash it down, and return a little later and mash it again to make sure it doesn't bulge out. If everything is wet, you may have problems with just about any adhesive.


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## StayInclined (Mar 6, 2015)

Take black silicone and electric tape, make an outline of everywhere you want the background. Then smear black silicon all over the area to be later silicone and wood mounted. Remove the tape and let it dry a while. This helps hide the holes of most materials and this may or may not be true but - helps seal better?


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## Ben689 (Apr 26, 2015)

Same problem here, silicone is starting to detach from gs. I don't want to take out my plants again to fix it because they're doing really well and my bromeliads are rooting on the background.


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## Bighurt (Jun 18, 2011)

Ben689 said:


> silicone is starting to detach from gs.


I've found if you carve the GS the silicone will stick much better as it gets into the pores rather than the skin of the product.

As for GS sticking to a silicone layer on the glass. I've found if you texture the silicone (roughen) before it cures. Then add a very thin base layer (1/4" bead) of GS it holds much better. And allow it to cure 24+ hrs before carving or adding a second layer.

Just as everything on the internet you must get to the bottom or source of the info. If your taking someones word that GS and glass or GS and silicone don't hold up their circumstances maybe different.

Preparation and proper procedure is everything. If you grab a tank from the store a can of gs and go nuts without prepping or consideration to method of course you aren't going to have long lasting results. 

As in life you'll get out of it what you put into it, and as always remember the 7 p's; Proper Previous Planning Prevents Piss Poor Performance.

Cheers


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## SMenigoz (Feb 17, 2004)

All good replies to your condition. Mistakes happen with any method, including cork. 
Two tips using the foam method:
Apply the spray foam in thin layers and ALLOW TO CURE. A day or more. I've even poked multiple holes in the foam bubbles to ensure air gets in.
Use black or brown(my personal favorite) silicone. If some of the substrate falls off, its way less obvious.


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## Judy S (Aug 29, 2010)

silicone does NOT stick to silicone.....Gorilla glue WILL stick to GS because they are the same chemical except for the propellent...GS and Silicone will stick BETTER if the glass has been cleaned with alcohol..As Scott advises, slow application is the best...and understanding that water/humidity is what cures the GS should be understood before willy-nilly spreading the GS all over the tank....


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## Rasagul (May 25, 2015)

Igofastr said:


> Well,
> 
> I can't address the original poster's issues. But, I've had pretty good experience with GS. I agree that cork attached with silicone looks great and lasts, GS can last too. I have several tanks that are 6-7 years old, and the GS is sticking just fine. In fact, I used it to hold good sized chunks of wood extending out from my backgrounds, and they are solid as ever today.
> 
> ...


 Thank you for this post I think you just saved my A$$. I'm getting ready to do my first build. I was worried about GS sticking to the glass and was considering spreading a thin coating of silicone across the glass.


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## Devanny (Jul 11, 2008)

You can use non-toxic acrylic paint to cover any white GS spots. It's what I have done in the past when I had vivariums set up. You can even do shades of green to somewhat mimic moss/algae. Hope this helps


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## rigel10 (Jun 1, 2012)

If there are animals in viv, I recommend moss: a patch of moss and some cutting of ficus pumila... and problem solved!
If your viv is empty, you can use silicone and coco fiber. I use a type of siliconic glue that sticks underwater for any repairs.


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