# Underside drain for large Exo Terra



## ecichlid (Dec 26, 2012)

I wanted to go underneath the cabinet on a large Exo Terra setup. I know I will need to drill a hole in the top as well as the tank. I see a few minor advantages of going though the bottom. The strainer is 1 3/4" high. Any opinions on my part list would be appreciated.


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## boombotty (Oct 12, 2005)

I had a rack of 4- 24x18x24 Exos and used the 1/2" bulhead and drilled the back of the tanks. That worked out really well, as I could run the tubing behind the rack down into a container underneath. Also, if you drill to one side of the back, if you ever needed to move the tank, you can tilt it to that side to get more water out.


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## ecichlid (Dec 26, 2012)

boombotty said:


> I had a rack of 4- 24x18x24 Exos and used the 1/2" bulhead and drilled the back of the tanks. That worked out really well, as I could run the tubing behind the rack down into a container underneath. Also, if you drill to one side of the back, if you ever needed to move the tank, you can tilt it to that side to get more water out.


 "They" often recommend that glass holes are drilled no less than an inch away from the edge. If this is true, what you wrote is correct, you would have to tilt the viv to get the last inch of water out. You would not have to do this going though the bottom with a bulkhead strainer. It would drain out very close to the bottom of the glass- every time.


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## ecichlid (Dec 26, 2012)

Any which way I do this, I just don't want to end up looking like this hack job. I like the method but maybe this guy tipped back one too many during that DIY.


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## ZookeeperDoug (Jun 5, 2011)

I would strongly recommend drilling your hole, not through the bottom but through the side. This will make any future moving of your vivarium much easier. When you drill the hole through the bottom you're left with the bulkhead protruding through. You will have to modify your stand or rack for this of course. If you need to move the tank, you'll have to compensate somehow for the bulkhead sticking through. I speak from experience when I say this is a huge pain in the ass, especially if you're moving multiple vivariums.

"They" are only partially correct about drilling the hole an inch from the edge, as this weakens the glass and that thin area of glass is more likely to crack, however; this is more of an aquarium rule dealing with fish tanks full of water where the weight of the water creates much more strain. In a vivarium where your dealing with a very small volume of water, and thus less weight this isn't as much of a problem. I've drilled quite a few holes into the side of the tank, as close to the bottom as possible without issue.


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## Rusty_Shackleford (Sep 2, 2010)

ecichlid said:


> Any which way I do this, I just don't want to end up looking like this hack job. I like the method but maybe this guy tipped back one too many during that DIY.


The price of frogs just doubled, and shipping went way way up.


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## ZookeeperDoug (Jun 5, 2011)

Rusty_Shackleford said:


> The price of frogs just doubled, and shipping went way way up.


LOL!!!!! Is that your work?


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## Rusty_Shackleford (Sep 2, 2010)

Yes Doug that's my work.


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## SDRiding (Jul 31, 2012)

I use a low profile strainer for mine, the hole is drilled through the bottom. Less head clearance you need to account for.

Lifegard Low Profile Suction Strainer, MPT Threaded - AquaCave.com


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## ZookeeperDoug (Jun 5, 2011)

Rusty_Shackleford said:


> Yes Doug that's my work.


That's just hilarious. Not your work but that he is buying frogs from you and inadvertanty an you over with a truck.

Just one question tho, how many beers did you have?


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## radiata (Jul 24, 2010)

I've yet to find cheaper bulkhead, strainer and hose-barb fitting prices than those on this site: Glass-Holes.com dope aquarium stuff. Their business is really oriented toward fish tank people (add-on overflow kits, etc). 

I personally prefer the threaded fixtures as you can take them apart at some point in the future and re-use them.

And, they carry bits for drilling your glass holes.

I also agree with *ZookeeperDoug*'s thoughts on only drilling the back of the tank. In addition to what he noted, the larger the tank, the more likely it is to have a bottom made out of tempered glass, which you're very likely to break if you attempt to drill it. (But, if you flip the tank to use the top opening as a front entry to your viv, make the obviously necessary "bottom" adjustments when drilling, as the back of your viv might now be the piece that is tempered.)


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## Rusty_Shackleford (Sep 2, 2010)

ZookeeperDoug said:


> That's just hilarious. Not your work but that he is buying frogs from you and inadvertanty an you over with a truck.
> 
> Just one question tho, how many beers did you have?


Apparently I had one too many, just one though.
ecichlid didn't inadvertently run over me. He did it on purpose, in a good way though. He and I have known each other for about 20 years, since we were both keeping cichlids way back in the day. He's just now getting into frogs. Yeah he's a little slow, always has been. I guess he got dropped on his head as a child? I know he's just razzing me and it's all in good fun.


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## ecichlid (Dec 26, 2012)

I like the end result. I can drain the water down to an 1/8". The disconnects are fast and easy (if need be) and having the ball valve means I don't have to keep a bucket under the viv if I don't want to. Now I just need to drill a couple holes in the stand and I'm good to go.


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## Rusty_Shackleford (Sep 2, 2010)

Nice!! That's much smaller than I was picturing it in my head.


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## ecichlid (Dec 26, 2012)

Rusty_Shackleford said:


> Nice!! That's much smaller than I was picturing it in my head.


 Just 1/2". Should still drain plenty fast.

On to the modified top!


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