# Orchid Help SOS



## Groundhog (Dec 17, 2006)

Okay kids, I appeal to the collective widom of the posse: The Orchid Show is coming up, and as these cost $$, I wish to make the safest possible decisions. Seriously, these bastards are too expensive to experiment with....

TANK SPECS:

Lighting: 150-200w of full-specrum light. Not enough for cacti, cattleyas or mini roses, but moderate-to-bright (e.g., the Cryptanthus stay in good color 14" from the lights).

Humidity: Tank is covered on the right half, humidity ranges from 60-80% left-to-right. (I grow the broms on the left. The tank has a motif: the left is Neotropical/center African/right Asian. What the hell :shock: )

Temp (F):

Winter D 70-75 N 60-65
Spring'Fall D 75-85 N 65-75 
Summer D 80-90 N 70-80 

So, at least I have seasons :roll: 

The contenders:

Neotropical 60% Hum: Epidendrum porpax vs. Pleurothallis brighamii

African 70% Hum: Aerangis punctata vs. Angraecum distichum

Asian 75% Hum: Haraella retrocalla vs. Schoenorchis fragrans vs. Dendrobium rigidum (Corey, I am aware that the Dendrobium is Australian--don't start :wink: )

Tom Stall vs. Keyser Soze (Oops--wrong forum :? 

Which do you objectively recommend kids? Is there an orchid consigliere in da house? 

Thanks,

G


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## TimStout (Feb 16, 2004)

Provide some air movement and you will much more easily be able to grow orchids in your viv. If you can't then go with the pleuro the Epi or the Haraella. Although all are beautiful choices the others you have chosen are more difficult to grow in the viv as they need to either dry out between waterings or go through a resting period.
Ludisia, Anectoectochilus etc. are also great growers in the viv.


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## littlefrog (Sep 13, 2005)

First, if you think you can limit yourself to one from each category, good luck. *grin*

If you think you dn't have enough light for cattleyas, stay away from the Epi porpax (Neolehmanniana porpax now). But I suspect you have plenty of light for mini-catts, I grow them in tanks under less light than you have and they do fine. Pl. brighamii is a great plant for tanks, but I'd buy both (I actually have lots of both, but if I didn't, I'd buy both...).

I'm not going to make a call on the aerangis, I don't really grow those.

Schoenorchis fragrans is one of my all time favorite orchids, but I think out of that list the haraella will do best in a tank. I've not tried the schoenorchis (which I grow bright, mounted, and it dries out hard between waterings) in a tank. My gut says avoid the dendrobium like the plague. Nice plant, I'm sure somebody can make it work in a tank, but I personally wouldn't try it. Maybe somebody else has better luck.

I'd also highly recommend restrepias, small bulbophyllums, minicatts that aren't red, ludisia and macodes (most of the jewel orchids), zootrophion... well, it is hard to pick just a few.

Now, as to expense, you might be able to find most of these cheaper online than at the orchid show. I raise my prices for shows as shows are expensive to sell at, and I assume most other vendors do to. If I wasn't so modest I'd recommend my own website... *grin* But, of course you should still go to the orchid show, and of course you will have to buy some plants. Bring extra cash!


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## Frogtofall (Feb 16, 2006)

I disagree with Rob wholeheartedly...

DON'T bring ANY cash! Hahaha. Leave the wallet at home or you will not have a home to go to after a few months b/c you'll never have money to pay any bills with.

:lol:


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## Grassypeak (Jun 14, 2005)

George, If you haven’t been to http://www.andysorchids.com take a look. They have a neat search engine that allows you to put in all kinds of parameters. 

Also, Jon Werner (a dendroboard orchid grower) once told me that he thinks Pleurothallis rowleei is one of the best viv orchids.


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## Frogtofall (Feb 16, 2006)

I guess I should add that I've had great success with Pleuro. brighamii, grobyi and peperomioides. All smaller growing humidity lovers.


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## Groundhog (Dec 17, 2006)

*Thanks*

Thanks for the input, guys.

CHRIS: I happen to know Andy personally--very nice fellow. Have you met him? He will be at the NY show in April.

I was aware that the Epi is now Neolehmannia, just keeping it simple. Incidentally, the P. brighamii is now Sarcinula, and the Dendro rigidum is now Dockrilla, in case any cares.

Shall go peruse Tim's site.

Thanks again.


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## Groundhog (Dec 17, 2006)

*Thanks*

Thanks for the input, guys. 

CHRIS: I happen to know Andy personally--very nice fellow. Have you met him? He will be at the NY show in April. 

Antone: Bringing $40 cash, and am willing to come home with just 2 plants. I do have self-control about this. THink that's why I've lasted so long in the hoobby--never been the type to get 80 snakes, 400 airplants, etc; 

I was aware that the Epi is now Neolehmannia, just keeping it simple. Incidentally, the P. brighamii is now Sarcinula brighamii, and the Dendro rigidum is now Dockrilla rigidum, in case any one cares (And Encyclia polybulbon is now Dinema--have never heard of Dinema before, either). 

Shall go peruse Rob's site. 

Thanks again.


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## Groundhog (Dec 17, 2006)

*One more--Jewel Orchid Q: Anoechtocilus vs. Macodes*

Guys:

Referencing the tank parameters I set forth above:

Which is a better bet for my tank: Macodes petola tolerating the cool (60-65) winter nights, or Anoechtocilus roxburghii--from montane Vietnam-- tolerating the warm (75+) summer nights? 

Any idea who gets bigger? Harry and I seem to feel the Macodes may get slightly larger leaves. Again, I do not like to shoot craps at $10-15 at throw, so any input would be appreciated.

Thanks,

G

P. S.

Will have to find a thread for Sabretooth vs. Keyser Soze :wink:


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## littlefrog (Sep 13, 2005)

*Re: Thanks*



Groundhog said:


> I was aware that the Epi is now Neolehmannia, just keeping it simple. Incidentally, the P. brighamii is now Sarcinula brighamii, and the Dendro rigidum is now Dockrilla rigidum, in case any one cares (And Encyclia polybulbon is now Dinema--have never heard of Dinema before, either).


Didn't know about the brighamii... A lot of pleurothallids are getting new names now. I don't think I actually agree with all of the changes, and I'm not changing my tags until I see everybody else do it. Usually that is about the time that some taxonomist wants to change it back. Most of the laelias are now sophronitis, but I'm not changing those tags either. The interface between orchid taxonomists and orchid growers is seriously broken, and getting worse...

Have fun at the show!


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## littlefrog (Sep 13, 2005)

The roxburghii I have seem to stay very small. That may be poor culture on my part. I don't think either would ever outgrow a tank in the way that a ludisia can. The one rox I have in a tank doesn't seem to have any roots for some reason (although the plant is happy as can be), whereas the macodes are thriving.

Some anaectochilus can get quite big. Chaparensis, for example. Or at least what seems to be sold as chaparensis, which I'm told is actually burmaniaca? I'm still in the learning phase with jewel orchids, every time I think I've seen them all, I find two more.


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## elmoisfive (Dec 31, 2004)

Merged topics and cleaned up thread. 

Groundhog, don't forget to hit 'Reply' as opposed to 'New Topic' when you are responding to a thread  

Bill


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## Guest (Mar 15, 2007)

Groundhog said:


> TANK SPECS:
> 
> Lighting: 150-200w of full-specrum light. Not enough for cattleyas


I also believe that this is enough for mini cattleyas. Mine are in 130 watts and growing like crazy.


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## Frogtofall (Feb 16, 2006)

Not to be a jerk but again, wattage ratings only tell us how much power the bulbs consume. They do not tell us how bright or strong they are. You need to tell us how many foot candles it puts out at various levels in the viv. That would be most helpful.

My best example would be a 100 watt bulb you'd use in your living room vs. a 100 watt Metal Halide. BIG difference.


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## Groundhog (Dec 17, 2006)

*Sophronitis cernua*

No, Antone yours is a very important point. Just as light intensity is not synonymous with color temperature.


Which leads to the question--do the new lower wattage tubes put out the same light intensity? (e.g., a 40w vs. 32w 4' tube?)

Question: How about Sophronitis cernua? Needs full sun, or would 150w of light be enough to induce blooming?

G


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## Guest (Mar 16, 2007)

Antone, agreed, I was just assuming that all light bulbs were created equally.   
My power compacts full spectrum 6500k 130 watts at 6" away are enough for my mini catts. This is enough light to create deep shade when I place my hand over the plants.


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## harrywitmore (Feb 9, 2004)

Rob, as for names I totally agree that there is no need to hurry and change tags and I normally don't. If you are a collector then names are only good to make sure you don;t get the same thing twice and to know what the cultural requirements of. I suspect you can get that from either name that brighamii is carrying at the moment.
As for Anoectochilus chapaensis, I am not at all sure of this name but I have no other to give it. It is certainly a large grower. I need to take pictures of the leaves on my Macodes petola because it has pretty large leaves and the pattern is great. Took it 2 years to get this way but it is stunning.


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## harrywitmore (Feb 9, 2004)

Here it is


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## littlefrog (Sep 13, 2005)

That macodes is exquisite, Harry. If a piece ever falls off, I want it...


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## harrywitmore (Feb 9, 2004)

Rob, I will be taking a top cutting this week in hopes of making it produce more shoots. If I can get it to I will be able to share some.


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## littlefrog (Sep 13, 2005)

I know a guy who does mericloning, we could make a few thousand of them... *grin*


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