# Planning my 90g Paladarium



## Guest (Jun 7, 2005)

Hi My name is Timmy and I'm new to all of this.
I fell in love with Landon's (2mnytnx) 110 Paladarium the 
first time I saw it. 
I picked up a cracked 90gal from one of my reefing friends here in Greenville. The crack goes across the back and I'm planning on putting a 
piece of acrylic inside the tank from corner to corner.
I'll post my ideas and plans and some pics. in the next day or so, And please offer up any ideas or suggestions you have.

THanks, Timmy


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## Guest (Jun 7, 2005)

just make sure you clean it out real well Timmy. i know you havent decided on inhabitants, but amphibians (and a lot of reptiles) are very sensitive to salt and all the other minerals of SW. 

does the crack go all the way to the bottom?


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## Guest (Jun 7, 2005)

The crack goes diagonal from the top r/h corner to the lower left corner :? and has another shorter one going up to the left upper corner. So the back glass is now in 3 pcs.
What I'm planning on doing is putting another piece of glass or acrylic inside the tank doubling the back and sealing it up good.
This is a RR tank so I've taken the overflow out so my repair can go to each end. 
I'm only planning on having about 10" of water in it and if I use acrylic I'm going to adhere another piece of acrylic across the tank making a shelf for the land part.


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## Guest (Jun 8, 2005)

that sounds like a good start.

are those closed loop holes in the back? if you go with a sump type set up you can easily use those as alternate water features. it'd be pretty neat if you have water coming from multiple places emtying into a large water section.


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## Arklier (Mar 1, 2004)

Welcome to Dendroboard Timmy!

It's fairly easy to fix a cracked tank like yours, as long as the cracks end at an edge of the glass. What you'll need is several pieces of scrap glass and some silicone sealant. Our old staple, GE Silicone II works great and is cheaper than aquarium sealant, especially since if the crack is long you'll be using a lot of it.

Make sure that the scrap glass has at least 2" on either side of the crack. Glass that's approximately the same thickness as the glass of the aquarium is best, but for a vivarium it can be thinner. Just don't go too thin. With the tank dry, slather silicone sealant on the pieces of scrap glass, and line them up along the crack on the back of the tank. Make sure the entire crack is covered, all the way to the edge, even if only part of it will be underwater. 

I've heard of people fixing large tanks that were used as aquariums the same way and it lasting years. And remember, water weighs around 10 pounds per gallon, so your 90 gallon tank would (at full) be holding back almost 1000 pounds.


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## Guest (Jun 9, 2005)

Arklier, Thanks for the welcome and info.


Landon, It is/was for a closed loop plus this is/was a reef ready tank with one corner overflow.
I removed the overflow to access the crack for repair so there is holes in the bottom L/H corner that I can use too.
I was thinking of maybe using a sump but I'm not sure :? 
Are you using a sump? If so, why?
I was thinking about using the mag 18 that is on my reef tank now.
BTW I got my AM3000 back from Dolphen yesterday 8)  


THis is the stand I'll be using


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## Guest (Jun 9, 2005)

Timmy, i dont have a sump, but i wish i did. i do have a rubbermaid under it with my RO misting water. after about 2 weeks my waterline has crept up 1/2". if i had an overflow and a real sump to draw the mist water from, my level would stay constant in the display. 

also, a lot of people use their water feature for temp control/stability. if you need to constantly cool your tank, a bag of ice in the sump will do. a heater in the sump also helps warm the tank D in caase you were un aware of this phenom ). the main point is a heater or bag of ice doesnt look too bad in the sump, but both can be a challenge to hide in the display.

if you have a water feature, the pump(s) will be easier to access if they are out of the tank. ive had pumps that went bad after 6-8 months that were in enclosures in the substrate. it came down to tear the tank apart for these pumps, or just go without moving water. after 6 months both tanks were so overgrown that i didnt want to tear them up. when i tore down each viv (to replace with bigger stronger faster models) both pumps just needed cleaning. from now on i make sure the pumps are easy to get to for cleaning, but it takes a lot of display are up.

there are probably hundreds of other advantages to having a sump, but the pump maintenance is enough for me. you could run a closed loop, but i dont think you could put enough outlets in a mag18 to reduce it enough to be usable. in an open loop the head pressure would at least reduce it a bit. 

also with a lower volume pump, you prolly wont need a large sump or baffles. im not sure though. i will be setting up the 37 (the planted in the office) as a vivarium soon. i am going to do multiple water falls, a drip wall, misters the whole nine yards (if i can cram it all in there). i will definatly try out the sump idea there.


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## doncoyote (Apr 20, 2005)

One other advantage to using a sump (as I'm doing on my 90 gal): the water level in the tank is stable - any fluctuation due to evaporation or water changes (which are easier w/ a sump IMHO) happens in the sump - not the tank.


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## SLEDDER23 (Mar 17, 2005)

On Arklier's suggestion, make sure you go that way. Do not mess with trying to glue silicone to glass. I think there are glues that will work, but they are toxic, and hard to come by.

On the sump, the only reason IMO not to have one is if you would have to drill your tank. I would go with a sump for sure!

Also, if you think of it, take some pix as you progress. I'd love to see how it turns out, and the process to get there!

Good luck, and enjoy.


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## Guest (Jun 10, 2005)

SLEDDER23 said:


> Do not mess with trying to glue silicone to glass. I think there are glues that will work, but they are toxic, and hard to come by.
> Also, if you think of it, take some pix as you progress. I'd love to see how it turns out, and the process to get there!
> 
> Good luck, and enjoy.


I'm not sure I understand that first part????


I do plan on keeping and posting a photo record of this project.

Timmy


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## SLEDDER23 (Mar 17, 2005)

I mis-typed, sorry. I meant to say don't try to glue _acrylic _to glass. long day.


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## Guest (Jun 10, 2005)

I kinda thought that's what you ment  
I've thought about that too but sislcone is what is/was holding
the acryloc overflows in reef ready tanks?
And If I went that route I was going to clean everything verrrrry good
and completely cover the back panel with silicone not just a few lines.

At least that is what I was thinking


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## SLEDDER23 (Mar 17, 2005)

I would really recommend against the acrylic. On your overflows, if they are built in from the factory, this may be a plastic other than acrylic, so that my explain. Also, the silicone is really just holding the overflow in place. The pressure on both sides is very close, unlike a tank full of water versus the outside. Hope that makes sense.

I would just hate to see you put all that work into thsi tank to find out that one of the first things you did needed undone. I've been there. At least do yourself a favor and try searching for info on sealing acrylic to anything with silicone. It just won't hold a bond like you need for any length of time. I know acrylic is much easier to work with, but for me, I just avoid it to be honest. It's too finicky on what can be used for bonding. 

I think you could probably build a wall for a water section with the acrylic, assuming that both sides would have water on them, like an overflow.

I hope this makes sense, and wish you luck!


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## Guest (Jun 11, 2005)

Now that you mention it,,,,,,,,,,I think the overflow that 
I cut out of the 90 was ABS....That's why threads like 
this one are sooo good, the get people talking and thinking.

Thanks again for the input,

Timmy


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## SLEDDER23 (Mar 17, 2005)

NP Timmy, I agree totally. I love forums. Lots of good info from people that have already made the mistakes you are planning.  Good luck, and please provide updates. You've sure got a good start with that tank.

BTW, on the overflow, silicone would adhere to almost any non porous surface, other than acrylic. Even on acrylic I think it may hold something like an overflow, or your wall, in place as long as there is equal water distribution on both sides of the silicone wall so there is equal pressure. The silicone will stick to the glass on either side of the wall, and basically act as a rail, not allowing the acrylic to go left or right, even if it isn't bonded to the glass via the silicone.

Good luck, and enjoy the building!


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## Arklier (Mar 1, 2004)

I would also recommend going with glass. Even if it's thin glass. Glass won't warp or separate from the back of the tank. It would kinda suck if you had to tear down the entire tank after it's all put together just because you used the wrong material.


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