# 240g starter?



## ForRealB (Jan 6, 2012)

So I've really been into reef tanks for the past 6yrs, aquaria for 15, but have about had it with leaking tanks, water spills, electricity, and heat issues. It's time for a change!

I recently bought a used 240g 8x2x2 ($150!), dismantled and bought a new starphire front. I accidentally broke the sides while waiting for this new front panel to arrive.

I've recently started planning for this to be a dart frog and vampire crab enclosure (loads more research to do here). also did research on planted tank.

I'm ordering the glass next week, and am curious if anyone has had a tank this tall stand on end? as in 8' tall, with small area on the bottom? I'm guessing it would have to be more species specific/ tree climbing? 

I'll likely be putting this into the planned in-wall, horizontally, but wanted to hear opinions. 

I'm really just starting out, and introducing myself. 

i was very inspired by this setup; 

jgrimmier 150g peninsula tank
The Peninsula - Final Timelapse - YouTube

Here is my current reef tank: (may come down/be downsized to an anemone/clown tank)
Rose Bubble Tip Anemone RBTA & feeding Reef - YouTube

Cheers, 

Blake


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## motydesign (Feb 27, 2011)

blake,
Geosesarma are pretty fast moving, the frogs you are wanting to put in there are pretty small (im guessing youll want a Ranitomeya of some sort) the crabs will eat the frogs...
just saying, it will happen at some point. other than that youll need to figure out light penetration through 8' of viv that only has a 2x2 floor. i have 2 55gal verts that was a task in its self and they look great and have been doing quite well the past 4 months, but double the height is a task to say the least.

and by the way EVERYONE is inspired by Grimm's build hahaha


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## Delawarejim (Jan 3, 2007)

Wow! Your inspiration tank is fab!

I'd check with your glass supplier to see if an 8 foot Starphire sheet can handle standing on end. I'd also be concerned about if the rest of the tank could handle the stresses. It's a lot of weight, even though there's no water. Also, depending on where you put it, you might need to check with a building inspector to see if the floor can handle it. All that weight redistributed from a 16 sq. ft. footprint (8 x 2) to a 4 sq. ft. footprint (2 x 2) will be orders of magnitude of stress as you'll be going from 6 or 7 floor joists supporting the tank to 1 or 2.

My guess is the glass, silicone seams, and floor joists will not be able to handle the stress load.

Cheers.
Jim


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## motydesign (Feb 27, 2011)

Delawarejim said:


> Wow! Your inspiration tank is fab!
> 
> I'd check with your glass supplier to see if an 8 foot Starphire sheet can handle standing on end. I'd also be concerned about if the rest of the tank could handle the stresses. It's a lot of weight, even though there's no water. Also, depending on where you put it, you might need to check with a building inspector to see if the floor can handle it. All that weight redistributed from a 16 sq. ft. footprint (8 x 2) to a 4 sq. ft. footprint (2 x 2) will be orders of magnitude of stress as you'll be going from 6 or 7 floor joists supporting the tank to 1 or 2.
> 
> ...


Jim, structural issues would not arrise from his set up, you wouldnt contact a building inspector, they would laugh and ask you where the engineer drawings are. you would want to contact the design engineer. that being said
being it is 2X2 it will land on a joist most likely 2 the Hem fir or spruce pine is rated at about 1000 in fiber stress (bending) and in the 1300 for compression parallel to the grain (this is the way joist are set up.) i doubt hell weigh more than 400lbs when done. (empty tank is 215lbs)

that being said tanks stress is in head pressures (water pushing on the sides the greatest force is at the bottom. the weakest point is in the middle of the longest span at the bottom) the tank would be fine in our application. glass can stand on end in great lengths.


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## Pumilo (Sep 4, 2010)

motydesign said:


> Jim, structural issues would not arrise from his set up, you wouldnt contact a building inspector, they would laugh and ask you where the engineer drawings are. you would want to contact the design engineer. that being said
> being it is 2X2 it will land on a joist most likely 2 the Hem fir or spruce pine is rated at about 1000 in fiber stress (bending) and in the 1300 for compression parallel to the grain (this is the way joist are set up.) i doubt hell weigh more than 400lbs when done. (empty tank is 215lbs)
> 
> that being said tanks stress is in head pressures (water pushing on the sides the greatest force is at the bottom in the middle of the longest span) the tank would be fine in our application. glass can stand on end in great lengths.


I agree completely. Fish stores will store very large tanks on end all the time. I also have to agree that frogs and crabs is a recipe for some very well fed crabs!


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## skanderson (Aug 25, 2011)

the tank will hold the stress of being upright without any problem. ditto that on the floors if you are in a somewhat modern, ie up to code building. lighting a 8 foot tank vertically will be a huge challenge if you want to grow high light items on the floor. i would imagine you could use a nice led with tight optics, im thinking 15 or 12 degree to get good lighting far enough down to make it look nice. either vertical or horizontal i would encourage you to make it open in the front for access. keep us posted as you go like to see this take shape.


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## Delawarejim (Jan 3, 2007)

motydesign said:


> Jim, structural issues would not arrise from his set up, you wouldnt contact a building inspector, they would laugh and ask you where the engineer drawings are. you would want to contact the design engineer. that being said
> being it is 2X2 it will land on a joist most likely 2 the Hem fir or spruce pine is rated at about 1000 in fiber stress (bending) and in the 1300 for compression parallel to the grain (this is the way joist are set up.) i doubt hell weigh more than 400lbs when done. (empty tank is 215lbs)
> 
> that being said tanks stress is in head pressures (water pushing on the sides the greatest force is at the bottom. the weakest point is in the middle of the longest span at the bottom) the tank would be fine in our application. glass can stand on end in great lengths.


Okay. My only experience with tanks this size has been with water in them. Still thinking like a 'bowhead!

Cheers.
Jim


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## motydesign (Feb 27, 2011)

here is a quick film that was requested of me to do on my 55 by another member. it was hard to do as the tank is pretty dim after the first 1'6". i used additional light to get the shot, but you can see how dim it is some what it the picture.





55 canopy dark at the bottom, vents love it use all of the area and stay in the leaf litter alot in the dark









55 cliff well lit waiting on frogs for it









what im suggesting is figure out what you want to have in the tank and design around light penetration


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## GRIMM (Jan 18, 2010)

Glad I gave you some inspiration for this insanity lol.

Just a question....with a single pane of starfire glass for the front, how do you plan on opening the tank if it is placed vertically?

If you do go ahead with the horizontal setup, concider this tank as some inspiration also. Click on the name Christophe de Neve on the left side of the page.

Terracom.tk


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## ForRealB (Jan 6, 2012)

Wow what a warm welcome!

To think i've heard from my inspiration already, such an amazing setup Grimm. One aspect I thoroughly enjoy is the technical/engineering aspect of reef keeping, I had no idea how intricate a setup could be till watching your youtube build series, love it! I also really like the zen simplicity of your tank; the drift with 3 viewable sides. dig it. 

Also like the linked tank you mentioned, if I do go horizontally - it will be viewable from both sides. perhaps somewhere between the two. 

Gotta love insanity! I'm actually doing my 2nd round of a video workout called insanity, so I suppose it's fitting. 

So, I currently have (4) 96x24 panes of glass, all 1/2" one of which is starphire. I have to order the 2 new sides, 24x22 7/8 for those of you counting. I'll also order some eurobracing to trim out the top to set the glass tops on (maybe some of you can help tell me if I can do a rimless setup; where I can just set 1/4 or 1/8" glass atop it? I'll take your advice here) - although I do want this to be a covered tank, like I saw in Grimms video, humidity from the reef tank is a real player in the summers here in Texas. 

If I do decide to go vertically, I'll order new thinner glass to build, I guess, 2 front/side hinged doors out of. Or hopefully I could pull off 1 large door, with lower bracing for return/drain etc on both (would I want a single door? aesthetically it sounds better). 

Lighting seems to be one of the biggest hurdles. 

I currently have: (4) 54w T5HO 10k and Actinics currently, will have to research appropriate kelvin. (2) 250w HQI MH pendants and (2) 250w single ended MH / spider reflectors. (2) 110w VHO as well, only actinic bulbs.

If I were to build a lip of some sort I could run the (4) T5's vertically, but is this too much for the inhabitants? The t5's are 48" and could run the entire vertical length of the tank. Supplemented by a 250w MH at the top, although I'd really enjoy trying my hand with some diy LED. Sounding like penetration through foliage may not be possible with either, at least not for too far.

For the earlier discussion, my home sits on a concrete slab, which i've had a 240g reef with 800lbs of rock,equipment/stand on top of water. So this should be much lighter. Also it's 1/2" thick glass. Thank you for your concern though, couldn't imagine walking in to see my 8' tank 4' lower 

Thank you for the videos and advice moty

Lots of research to do, thank you again for the welcome 

Cheers, 

Blake


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## intelsuit (Jul 31, 2011)

ForRealB said:


> So I've really been into reef tanks for the past 6yrs, aquaria for 15, but have about had it with leaking tanks, water spills, electricity, and heat issues. It's time for a change!
> 
> I recently bought a used 240g 8x2x2 ($150!), dismantled and bought a new starphire front. I accidentally broke the sides while waiting for this new front panel to arrive.
> 
> ...


I actually setup my current 55 gallon as a geosesarma sp. vamp tank but when all but one of my crabs died I decided to purchase 2 tinc cobalts. It has been a week or so now with the frogs and they are still alive. Plenty of flies and springtails to keep them fed. I would say as long as there are plenty of places for everyone to go and be territorial then it should be fine. I guess I will find out if I am wrong or not. I have a lot of places for the cobalts to go and the crab seem to stck to one area.


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## hypostatic (Apr 25, 2011)

I don't think I've read about anyone keeping geosesarma and darts together on the forum, but I think the general consensus is that most people wouldn't want to risk losing any of their livestock because of the mixture (possible predation, pathogen exchange, etc)

Whenever I think about mixing the two I always go back to this video, and it seems like a bad idea to me:


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## ForRealB (Jan 6, 2012)

no crabs, maybe some amano's, are there compatible fish (2" the deepest water can safely go as well)? I'm planning on thumbnails, yet to decide specifics.

Here is a rough mockup of the layout i'm planning. 

It will be viewable from both sides, have a false bottom, 3 x dual misting heads powered by MistKing pump (should these be quad heads?), 65g sump with filter pad/carbon/bio balls, 600gph return pump powering drips/waterfall/river area - which will be shaped like a moat around the middle drift/stump.

I've yet to finish plant selection so the mockup holds some for color representation sake. 

Also ultrasonic humidifier on each end (fog in mockups) - would I need two for this? 

Additionally I plan to have an RO/DI ATO for the sump, can this water supply feed the fogger/misting system too, or do they require their own? - is the biggest concern particulate matter messing these systems up? 










still researching. 

Cheers


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## GRIMM (Jan 18, 2010)

Haha best drawing mockup Ive seen to date. Looks like you have a good plan so far. Could be awesome if the follow through is as good  I'll subscribe to the build for sure.

Heres some opinions, only based on my short experience with the peninsula....

You could probably get away with 4 dual misting heads. I have 2 quads and some spots still dont get hit as much as I would like. Most likely due to the water only being shot from 2 main points. More output points, the better the coverage.

You definitely want to have a seperate pure RO supply for the foggers and misting system. Calcium will build up on the ultrasonic disk of the fogger, and the misting heads will plug up over time if sump water is used.

1 fogger (depending on output amount) will probably give you a thin skim of fog throughout half the tank. Mine has trouble reaching the full 4' length without fans helping it (you can see in my time lapse how much it struggles). Once the fans help it becomes a cloud though, and not a fog carpet. 2 fogger should be able to give a nice carpet. In the grand scheme of things, the foggers are one of the minor expenses anyways, and can be added at a later date easily.


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## ForRealB (Jan 6, 2012)

Highland Bronze Auratus
Ranitomeya Imitator
Ranitomeya reticulata

Todays' choices, may change, not mixed but 1 of the above in a group.

What are my restrictions for the thumbs? 1 per 20g.? Do I want to start with 2? 

and I read Auratus male dominant groups, like 5? 

Still researching. ordering the glass soon, but I'm now trying to decide if I want to make sliding doors on one side. - one of my least favorite things was lifting the light rack, and reaching over destroying my back during maintenance. 1/4" glass standard? 

Cheers


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## DragonSpirit1185 (Dec 6, 2010)

ForRealB said:


> Highland Bronze Auratus
> Ranitomeya Imitator
> Ranitomeya reticulata
> 
> ...


honestly with the right guidance from the right people and research I really think this viv is big enough to be able to mix a few species.
If others are allowed I'm sure with the right knowledge you should be allowed to do the same.
Some terrestrial PDFs on the ground and some aboreal PDFs, or other aboreal frogs that will be safe that can climb elsewhere and make use of the height....it would be awesome.
Just set it up to meet all their needs and whatnot and do fecals and take all the right steps and it can be done.
Yeah you will have plenty on here opposing the idea yet they aren't objecting to others who are mixing.
I just think with a viv this big and due to group restrictions and how there can only be so many of one species maybe mixing at the most two different species will be ok.
This is gonna be a big viv and a pair or trio just doesn't seem like much lol

I am just throwing in my 2 cents and I will not sit here and debate about mixing cause it can be done and there are some here that are doing it and no debate from the elites is brought upon them, sure they may be experienced so why not lend your experience to those who would like to mix?(rhetorical)
Europeans have mixed vivs and have been doing it for a while and have had no issues. We can't all agree on everything. So lets keep this thread free from debates shall we?


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## Ed (Sep 19, 2004)

DragonSpirit1185 said:


> honestly with the right guidance from the right people and research I really think this viv is big enough to be able to mix a few species.
> If others are allowed I'm sure with the right knowledge you should be allowed to do the same.
> Some terrestrial PDFs on the ground and some aboreal PDFs, or other aboreal frogs that will be safe that can climb elsewhere and make use of the height....it would be awesome.
> Just set it up to meet all their needs and whatnot and do fecals and take all the right steps and it can be done.
> ...


IF you don't want to end up in a debate on the impact then, you really shouldn't be offering suggestions on which you have no experience particularly on mixing dendrobatids when you have no (zero) experience with dendrobatid frogs..much less successful multispecies enclosures. 

For the OP.. contrary to Brandon's disgruntled accusations about a supposed "elite" there are actual practical issues for setting up a multispecies enclosure. Those that don't get a lot of flack for it, tend to have the experience to be able to accomedate the issues below and not the "mythical" elite. 

Multispecies enclosures can be done however a number of things need to be taken into consideration before you starting mixing species. 
The first is that you have to design the enclosure so there is no or limited competition for the same resources (such as tadpole deposition sites) which can be seen in this article (not online yet) Ryan, Mason J.; Barry, Deborah S.; 2011; Competitive interactions in phytotelmata-breeding pools of two poison dart frogs (Anura: Dendrobatidae) in Costa Rica; Journal of Herpetology 45(4): 438-443. If you cannot accomedate those requirements and have more than one species in there that uses those resources then you are going to have competition which can result in one or more species doing poorly or even dying before we even consider the impact on the single animals.

Once you get past the species versus species competition, you next have to consider whether or not there will be competition and issues between animals of the same type. Once again, you have to look at resource competition as that drives those actions..in some cases the amount of space a single male can claim is surprisingly large (for example one reference I have to track down had D. leucomelas males defending up to 80 square meters) and calling sites are a driver for males. I should also note that with auratus there is competition between females as well as males.. (See for example http://deepblue.lib.umich.edu/bitstream/2027.42/27957/1/0000388.pdf) 

Then we have to look at the issues of potential novel pathogen exposures and the risks there. Novel pathogens from mixing animals from different localities has resulted in problems for not only captive but animals in the wild.. some of the easiest to look up are the mycoplasma agassizii and the impact on native tortoises of the genus Gopherus and box turtles is believed to have originated from native species being housed with exotic tortoises.. chytrid is looking to potentially have also originated due to one or more "benign" strains combining and then getting exposed to multiple novel populations.... There are other examples as well (some viruses like some strains of the iridovirus). 

The final big concern is whether or not the species will hybridize. If you can be sure that they won't hybridize then you will have resolved the practical issues of a multispecies enclosures. 

Once you have evaluated these criteria and can resolve the conflicts, you are well on the way to being able to designing an appropriate multispecies enclosure. If you are designing the setup before you have decided on the species for the enclosure you are going about it in the wrong order. Choose the species first and then (and only then) design the enclosure to deal with the issues enumerated above. 


Some comments from a person that dealt with multispecies enclosures including ones with dendrobatids for close to 19 years..... 

Ed


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## Ed (Sep 19, 2004)

I forgot to add, that if you are going with multispecies, then all frogs should go into the tank at the same time. If you do it after territories are established you could have a lot of stress due to aggression while the new additions look for niches and establish themselves.

Space is only one part of being able to make a successful multispecies enclosure. 

Ed


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## Pumilo (Sep 4, 2010)

Most people who are doing multispecies enclosures successfully, have also had experience keeping each species before taking the plunge to attempt multispecies vivs.
I think it's important to note here that Dragonspirit has absolutely NO experience with dart frogs. He has NEVER owned ANY dart frog and suddenly feels he is competent to give advice on what should be considered an advanced subject.


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## Scott (Feb 17, 2004)

As others have said, and will no doubt continue to say, you likely need the experience *yourself* before embarking on a project such as described here.

But I'm sure the OP knows this.

s



DragonSpirit1185 said:


> honestly with the right guidance from the right people and research I really think this viv is big enough to be able to mix a few species.
> If others are allowed I'm sure with the right knowledge you should be allowed to do the same.


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## ForRealB (Jan 6, 2012)

Thank you for the feedback. I apologize if I was misinterpreted above; I have no intention of housing more than one species, nor claim to have the know how. Simply here to learn and create a suitable living situation for some awesome pdfs. 

I've been planning for Ranitomeya and an arboreal setup, and just recently saw the Highland Bronze Auratus which may be more 'seen'/'bold' than the thumbnails might be? 

I've also started researching their habitat(s): 

Dendrobates.org - Dendrobates auratus
Dendrobates.org - Biology | Habitat

Does anyone have a great resource for more specific habitats ref: ranitomeya?


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## Scott (Feb 17, 2004)

You were not misinterpreted. We just wanted to make sure you didn't follow bad advice.

Good luck with your build!

s


ForRealB said:


> Thank you for the feedback. I apologize if I was misinterpreted above ...


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## Pumilo (Sep 4, 2010)

Agreed. Sorry if it sounded like we were coming down on you. We were not.


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## Ed (Sep 19, 2004)

ForRealB said:


> Thank you for the feedback. I apologize if I was misinterpreted above; I have no intention of housing more than one species, nor claim to have the know how. Simply here to learn and create a suitable living situation for some awesome pdfs.
> 
> I've been planning for Ranitomeya and an arboreal setup, and just recently saw the Highland Bronze Auratus which may be more 'seen'/'bold' than the thumbnails might be?
> 
> ...


The best references on describing the Ranitomeya species habitat is going to be found in Poison Frogs by Lotters et al. That book unfortunately runs over a 100 dollars at this time. Some of the websites have good descriptions of them as well. 

Ed


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## ForRealB (Jan 6, 2012)

Slightly altered mockups. 

Based off of site research and other observed thumbnail vivs. I'm leaning toward the second one. (please note these are only mockups of hard-scape).

I'm wondering if it is imperative to create an entire wall background opposed to the white background below with just root structures - separated by viewable glass? I imagine it will be harder to seal around the edges of the GS? 



















I plan to use this technique: 
http://www.dendroboard.com/forum/members-frogs-vivariums/66904-benadicta-viv-build-journal.html


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## fieldnstream (Sep 11, 2009)

ForRealB said:


> I'm wondering if it is imperative to create an entire wall background opposed to the white background below with just root structures - separated by viewable glass? I imagine it will be harder to seal around the edges of the GS?


Just from an aesthetic standpoint, I would say make the background darker...it makes the frogs stand out more. You shouldn't have too much trouble sealing around the edges of the gs.


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## ForRealB (Jan 6, 2012)

Field - this will actually be see-through, viewable from both sides - so the white is glass in the mockup. But I will update with darker background so it looks more pleasing (if that is what you're saying. Or are you talking about color of the wood/gs ? )


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## Pumilo (Sep 4, 2010)

Pretty sure Field means the background. It will give them the feel of more cover and security. The more secure they feel, the bolder they will be. Even if you skip the traditional background, you can give them that security with some black contact paper applied to the back of the viv.


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## Edhurl (Nov 8, 2011)

motydesign said:


> here is a quick film that was requested of me to do on my 55 by another member. it was hard to do as the tank is pretty dim after the first 1'6". i used additional light to get the shot, but you can see how dim it is some what it the picture.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Told you the video may come in handy...


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## fieldnstream (Sep 11, 2009)

Exactly what Doug said. They will be bolder (and less stressed) if the sides are blacked out. Obviously people make tanks that are viewable from both sides without any problems...but I have seen the most natural behaviors in tanks that only have one viewing side (i.e. three sides blacked out). I make 3-sided bgs on all of my tanks now and put black contact paper on the outside. Not only does this reduce stress, it also makes the tank look better (in my opinion). Having only one viewing side "frames" the picture better, which I think makes for a better experience not only for the frogs, but also for the viewer. Looking through the tank and seeing furniture/the rest of the room kind of ruins the impression of looking into the rainforest...maybe thats not your focus (which is totally fine) but for those that like to think of their vivs as the outside inside it goes a long way towards bolstering the illusion. With all of that said, you are clearly doing plenty of research and I'm sure whatever you do will turn out great!


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## motydesign (Feb 27, 2011)

well he decided to go horizontal which is a good thing, now im curious about the water he has drawn on the right side of the concept pic. there is a lot that will be required with that little bit of water, why not take that out and use if for a pile of leaves or a palm frond or a full size coconut (with a 240 that would be COOL!)


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## ForRealB (Jan 6, 2012)

I think i'm probably a bit big on the concept in terms of proportioned gs/wood, i'll be making it smaller when I start. This will allow for some larger plants. Palm Frond? like this: 










Also, i plan to do false bottom with standpipe/overflow to sump(filter sock/carbon/bioballs), and was hoping to keep some aquatic plants and perhaps a fish or two? However, I've yet to make a decision nor research appropriate threads on depth of water and threat to the frogs. Although I did see an office 225 which had quite a bit of water. 

here it is: 








Link(hope this is ok to do)

additionally i plan on doing leaf cover throughout. 

Ref: see-through
I do want them to be less stressed, but I'd also like to see the enclosure from both rooms. I already have the hole in the wall - although maybe this will prompt me to just finish off the wall, and do a full GS sculpted background - sounds like a lot of carving though .  Thank you for the feedback.


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## fieldnstream (Sep 11, 2009)

Is that first tank yours? I remember it from TTTF...


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## ForRealB (Jan 6, 2012)

fieldnstream said:


> Is that first tank yours? I remember it from TTTF...


Nope, not mine. This will be my first. 

The more I keep thread hopping here the more I see many enclosures/frog rooms opposed to one large enclosure. what's with you people  I've also got: 48x24x31(t), 60x12.5x25(t), 48x18x18 laying around.


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## fieldnstream (Sep 11, 2009)

Yeah man, you think you can do just one viv...think again. See how many tanks you have in 6 months. Once the bug gets ya there's always another frog to get.


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## Ed (Sep 19, 2004)

fieldnstream said:


> Exactly what Doug said. They will be bolder (and less stressed) if the sides are blacked out.


 
This tank according to the OP is going to be in a spot that is viewable from both sides. Blacking out the background defeats this purpose. The frogs will quickly acclimate to both sides being open provided that the foot traffic on both sides is about the same. This isn't any different than the frogs being in the wild where they are visible all sides except directly under thier bodies... Providing plenty of cover close for shelter is what is going to increase boldness even more for the frogs. 


Ed


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## tnwalkers (Jul 15, 2012)

just curious t see if this build went anywhere?









joey


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## SNAKEMANVET (Dec 14, 2011)

I was reading this thread when I was building my 240,wonder if he finished it.


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## ForRealB (Jan 6, 2012)

Well... 

I ended up moving states, getting a new tank. Starting setting it up as a reef, disassembling leds and rebuilding as a planted (warm and cool whites, removed most of the RB's), still haven't filled with water. 

130x20x18" 

and i'm now back on the dendroboard! 

Really just don't want to deal with the water, going through a wall for filtration, huge water changes. 

So, going to hop back in.


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## shibbyplustax (Feb 28, 2011)

ForRealB said:


> Well...
> 
> I ended up moving states, getting a new tank. Starting setting it up as a reef, disassembling leds and rebuilding as a planted (warm and cool whites, removed most of the RB's), still haven't filled with water.
> 
> ...


Ooooh damn i like the look of that. Have anything in mind of what your going to do with that beast?

Sent from my DROID2 GLOBAL using Tapatalk 2


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## mongo77 (Apr 28, 2008)

You could silacone some panes of glass inside it to make two or three separate vivs. You can still arrange it to look like one big viv but have separate areas for different species or morphs.


ForRealB said:


> Well...
> 
> I ended up moving states, getting a new tank. Starting setting it up as a reef, disassembling leds and rebuilding as a planted (warm and cool whites, removed most of the RB's), still haven't filled with water.
> 
> ...


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## ForRealB (Jan 6, 2012)

New list of parts: 

130x18x20

Substrate:
are these safe? 
200lbs silca sand
12 x 9 liter bags of amazonia aquasoil

Lighting:
24 x Neutral White Cree XML
53 x cool and warm white XTE
14 x Deep Red / Cyan / Royal Blue for added pop

Driftwood 
Manazita branches

ro/di unit

huge amount of aquatic gear. need to sell, anybody need 2 mp40w es? 

need to get misting system, build glass tops, finish up leds. 

dont' think i'm going to do a water feature to avoid drilling (i've already drilled two 1.5" holes for a herbie style overflow, so will have to use those for ventilation, wiring/hoses for components) 

need to drop back in and do my refresh this weekend.


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## kitcolebay (Apr 7, 2012)

Subscribed! I have a 150 gallon/6 foot. as my first viv...nothing compared to the beauty of that tank. I went "cheap" on my setup. Can't wait to see how yours develops...bets are, freakin' awesome!

-Chris


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