# Zoomed Reptibark



## Ashli (Aug 28, 2005)

Has anyone else ever had issues with zeemed reptibark before? I've never used it until this past weekend myself, but I couldn't find any info saying not to use it, so i went ahead.

Basically I moved this weekend, and my Bicolor and Vanzolini were put into temp tubs with reptibark as the substrate. They were in the tubs for 2-48 hours (Bicolor the longest, the Vanzolini were much harder to catch)

When we were done moving and I went to put everyone back in their permanent homes they were lifeless, and one Bicolor was already dead. Once I saw this I removed the frogs, and allowed them to soak. Most of them have recovered.

So far I've lost two bicolor and one vanzolini is still in a temp tank until I can confirm he's eating and has a little more life to him. 

The frogs moved on my usual substrate are all fine.

The zoomed reptibark isn't heat treated, which I think may have caused the issue due to oils from the fir bark.

Anyway, I'll never use this stuff again. I feel absolutely horrible. I did contact zoo med but I doubt anything will come of that. They are claiming heat treatment would make no difference.


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## Kmc (Jul 26, 2019)

There are too many collaterals with moving and animal transport, stewarding all factors of impact, to be able to be certain it was the bark. And I am not a blind faithful of the uniform condition of repti-by industry substrates, Im sure not.


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## Socratic Monologue (Apr 7, 2018)

I'm sorry for what happened to your frogs. You're not to blame.

People use all brands of 'orchid bark' (bark of various conifer species) in substrate mixes without issue, though perhaps using it straight has some effects that don't present when used in mixes. Issues relating to hydration suggest themselves, as orchid bark doesn't take on moisture very readily, or even very predictably, and may appear moistened but in fact be actively absorbing water from wherever it can grab.

I doubt that heat treating it would have much effect on its volatiles content; pine and cedar shavings are kiln dried, for example, and are known to have strong volatile components. Other orchid bark products are heat treated ostensibly to kill pathogens.


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## Kmc (Jul 26, 2019)

This might be a handy place to insert a travel tip :

*Never put an animal container on the car floorboard. Heat fatalities of pets and even feeder species, including rodents, have been reported. *

Having the container down beside us promotes the illusion that "the animal is safe, right here with me." But we often lose touch with just how hot some areas on a car floorboard can get.

Another bad place that seems good is on your lap. The bottom of a box can warm up pretty toasty on some jeans. 

Animals need cooler than you keep them transport, in cover material that stays stable with motion and potential percussives.


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## maniccupcake (Oct 20, 2012)

Kmc said:


> This might be a handy place to insert a travel tip :
> 
> *Never put an animal container on the car floorboard. Heat fatalities of pets and even feeder species, including rodents, have been reported. *
> 
> ...


Completely agree here. The frogs were transported with me and we're not on the floor.of my car. They were on the seat beside me. The drive was less than 5 minutes.

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk


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## maniccupcake (Oct 20, 2012)

Socratic Monologue said:


> I'm sorry for what happened to your frogs. You're not to blame.
> 
> People use all brands of 'orchid bark' (bark of various conifer species) in substrate mixes without issue, though perhaps using it straight has some effects that don't present when used in mixes. Issues relating to hydration suggest themselves, as orchid bark doesn't take on moisture very readily, or even very predictably, and may appear moistened but in fact be actively absorbing water from wherever it can grab.
> 
> I doubt that heat treating it would have much effect on its volatiles content; pine and cedar shavings are kiln dried, for example, and are known to have strong volatile components. Other orchid bark products are heat treated ostensibly to kill pathogens.


Thank you, it definitely has been a lesson.

Next time I'm using paper towel 

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## Socratic Monologue (Apr 7, 2018)

Ummm...why are there two accounts replying here?


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## maniccupcake (Oct 20, 2012)

Socratic Monologue said:


> Ummm...why are there two accounts replying here?


...I did the original post on my laptop and this is on my Tapatalk.

Didn't even clue in it was using a different account  I'll try to log in properly.

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk


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## Kmc (Jul 26, 2019)

Paper towel is "ok" for transport, but sphagnum is better. Transport is one of those circumstances when a bed of sphagnum gets to shine its useful, terra familiar qualities in tactile, olfactory, security promoting harborage.

If you do choose paper towels do layer it thick and workably to _tent it _ in places to mold firm pockets of refugia for the frogs to retreat into. They will go to the wall so there at the corners are the best location. 

The paper towel Tent is also good for Q & H, and can be intergrated with pads of sphagnum.

Sphagnum has its deficits as a substrate but it is an astute environmental stress reducer with herp fauna. 

It is also good to move animals into transport containment, some time _before_ packing them in and taking off. How much time, is case by case, but watch them and its nice if they are settled and dont have a barrage of input all at once.


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## cwebster (Mar 5, 2016)

we use moist paper towels .when we transport frogs.


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