# Mistking Bulkhead Help



## MrBiggs (Oct 3, 2006)

I've been in the hobby for over a decade. In that time I've built dozens of tanks, experimented with many different backgrounds, false bottoms, and myriad construction strategies. I've drilled glass, plumbed tanks, and generally done a little bit of everything. That's not to say that I'm an expert in any of it, just that I'm no newbie.

HOWEVER, one thing that I have never managed to do successfully is get a Mistking bulkhead to fit in a 5g bucket without leaking. I've tried... I believe 8 times, and never once have I managed to do it. No matter how dedicated I am to following the simple instructions perfectly, they leak. Every. single. time. It's gotten to the point that I dread it more than any other aspect of building a new tank. 

Today was the most recent failure. 

I don't want to bury the stupid freaking thing in silicone like I've done in the past, I don't want to buy silicone grease or whatever, I just want it to work. So tell me, all you gurus, how do I make that happen? What magic must I summon in order to make a Mistking bulkhead not leak?

A couple of other pieces of information. I'm using a normal 5g bucket from Ace. The bulkhead instructions were followed to the letter EXCEPT the wrench tightening part, which I have never understood. I've always been able to hand tighten the nut past the point it 'breaks'.


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## Pumilo (Sep 4, 2010)

Your hole needs to be perfect. That tiny bulkhead can't really fit a gasket, so it uses an o-ring instead. That leaves little room for mistake. Use a perfect, sharp, bit. If you use a hole saw, drill a 1/4" pilot hole *before* using the hole saw. If you don't, the 1/4" pilot bit on the hole saw, graps the plastic and yanks the tool forcefully, slamming the outer cutting ring of the hole saw against the plastic. This rarely gives a clean hole. Drill slowly, so the material is cut away, not chipped away. Finally, carefully clean the edges with a brand new x.acto blade. That sucker's got to be perfect.

One more thing. Go back in time and drill a test hole in a milk jug or other scrap, pliable plastic, so you can test the fit of the o-ring, and know if your hole is going to be the perfect size.


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## jam5971 (Apr 27, 2017)

When I did mine at first it leaked but using a wrench to nip it further per the instructions stopped it.

Don’t know what to suggest to be honest. Make sure you don’t do the hole too big as that could cause a leak. If you can use the correct size drill don’t do what I did and use a smaller one and then file it bigger!


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## MrBiggs (Oct 3, 2006)

Pumilo said:


> Your hole needs to be perfect. That tiny bulkhead can't really fit a gasket, so it uses an o-ring instead. That leaves little room for mistake. Use a perfect, sharp, bit. If you use a hole saw, drill a 1/4" pilot hole *before* using the hole saw. If you don't, the 1/4" pilot bit on the hole saw, graps the plastic and yanks the tool forcefully, slamming the outer cutting ring of the hole saw against the plastic. This rarely gives a clean hole. Drill slowly, so the material is cut away, not chipped away. Finally, carefully clean the edges with a brand new x.acto blade. That sucker's got to be perfect.
> 
> One more thing. Go back in time and drill a test hole in a milk jug or other scrap, pliable plastic, so you can test the fit of the o-ring, and know if your hole is going to be the perfect size.


I always use the recommended 9/16ths drill bit, exactly the type in the instructions. That bit has been used 8-9 times. If you're good at reading, you'll understand immediately exactly what it has been used for. So 8-9 holes in soft-ish plastic. I imagine it's plenty sharp.

I've tried cleaning the hole with a knife with no success. 

I'm going out of my mind with it!


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## MrBiggs (Oct 3, 2006)

jam5971 said:


> When I did mine at first it leaked but using a wrench to nip it further per the instructions stopped it.


Was the wrench really needed? All of mine can be tightened to 'breaking' by hand. A wrench is unneeded...


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## jgragg (Nov 23, 2009)

Huh. I've done 4 buckets and never had an insurmountable problem. I mean, I may have invented a cuss word or two along the way (I freely admit _it's not always easy_ to make these bulkheads work) but in the end it's always worked out.

How about just trying a different shape? Buy a reservoir with a flat side. A tote or a jerry can.


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## jam5971 (Apr 27, 2017)

MrBiggs said:


> Was the wrench really needed? All of mine can be tightened to 'breaking' by hand. A wrench is unneeded...




All I can say is I tightened hand tight and then with a wrench as per the instructions.

If you’ve struggling try as someone else has suggested a box with a flat side which should be easier.


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## MrBiggs (Oct 3, 2006)

Yes, I've definitely considered a flat sided container. However, the stand it's going in is a corner stand, so a rectangular container wastes a lot of extra space. :-/


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## Encyclia (Aug 23, 2013)

Are you using the same buckets every time? It could have something to do with how pliable the plastic is in that particular bucket. I have only tried it one time, but I don't remember it being especially difficult. I used one of the food grade buckets and a food grade lid for it from Lowe's. It is all white, which makes it easier to fish the flies out of it with a net  Snapping the lid down makes it really tough for me to get open so I just kind of press it down which apparently isn't enough to keep flies out... The only other thing I can think of is that my system starts with a 3/8" spine, so the bulkhead I am using is 3/8", as well. Maybe the bigger bulkhead is easier to seat? You could always try a bigger one and step down right away to 1/4" if that is what your system uses. I also have an O ring on the outside of the bucket (can't see if there is also one inside), which seems to be working for me, but I can't remember what the directions said about the O ring 

Best of luck,

Mark


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## MrBiggs (Oct 3, 2006)

Encyclia said:


> Are you using the same buckets every time? It could have something to do with how pliable the plastic is in that particular bucket. I have only tried it one time, but I don't remember it being especially difficult. I used one of the food grade buckets and a food grade lid for it from Lowe's. It is all white, which makes it easier to fish the flies out of it with a net  Snapping the lid down makes it really tough for me to get open so I just kind of press it down which apparently isn't enough to keep flies out... The only other thing I can think of is that my system starts with a 3/8" spine, so the bulkhead I am using is 3/8", as well. Maybe the bigger bulkhead is easier to seat? You could always try a bigger one and step down right away to 1/4" if that is what your system uses. I also have an O ring on the outside of the bucket (can't see if there is also one inside), which seems to be working for me, but I can't remember what the directions said about the O ring
> 
> Best of luck,
> 
> Mark


I'm not 100% sure. Maybe I'll buy a different style of bucket and try again. I'd love to believe that I'm not an imbecilie and that the fault rests in an inanimate object...

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## Encyclia (Aug 23, 2013)

Oh, the fault lies with an inanimate object one way or another. Rest assured, it's not you!

Mark


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## MrBiggs (Oct 3, 2006)

Encyclia said:


> Oh, the fault lies with an inanimate object one way or another. Rest assured, it's not you!
> 
> Mark


Nah. If a decade of marriage has taught me anything, it's that I'm usually at fault. 

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## jgragg (Nov 23, 2009)

> If a decade of marriage has taught me anything, it's that I'm usually at fault.


I think your marriage is gonna last. (I'm almost 19 years in myself. Lotta work, lotta fun! Showing modesty - whether true or false - is a key survival mechanism.)



> However, the stand it's going in is a corner stand, so a rectangular container wastes a lot of extra space. :-/


This might be a ridiculous idea. But you could just custom-build a reservoir to the dimensions of your stand. If you're handy you could build something out of fairly thin plywood, some fiberglass cloth, and epoxy resin (less fumes than polyester, by far) _pretty easily_. Or make if from acrylic, or from glass. Or have it made. This "custom sump" would always be there for that stand...

Just a thought. Perhaps ridiculous. Sounds like something I'd do.


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## Pubfiction (Feb 3, 2013)

Uniseals are great cheaper and seal on even fairly messy holes and even in round buckets and so on. I don't buy bulkheads anymore. 

Alternatively you can find kitty litter buckets for free on the side of the street, I think that the problem with sealing largely has to do with the bucket being round and the bulkhead meant to seal a flat surface. Kitty litter buckets are rectangular so you can drill into a flat surface.


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## Pumilo (Sep 4, 2010)

I have a thought. Those bulkheads are made to go on flat surfaces. When used on a bucket, the two "sandwich" faces of the bulkhead have to bend the plastic of the bucket flat, or it won't seal.
If, in an effort to be able to use as much of the bucket as possible, you have drilled down really low on the bucket, it could be a problem. The bottom, flat surface of the bucket will prevent any bending down at the bottom. The top will likely still look like it is flattening properly. Get a new bucket and drill it an inch higher, so the sidewall can flatten.


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## Pumilo (Sep 4, 2010)

Pubfiction said:


> Uniseals are great cheaper and seal on even fairly messy holes and even in round buckets and so on. I don't buy bulkheads anymore.
> 
> Alternatively you can find kitty litter buckets for free on the side of the street, I think that the problem with sealing largely has to do with the bucket being round and the bulkhead meant to seal a flat surface. Kitty litter buckets are rectangular so you can drill into a flat surface.


Uniseals used to seam hokey to me, but I've come to love them. They are quite cheap, too, or at least used to be.


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## Pubfiction (Feb 3, 2013)

Ya because they don't have a positive clamping mechanism they seem like they wouldn't work well, like they are a cheap hack, but they do work well. I originally got into them because I wanted to put drains in tanks that were already built. Uniseals were the only way I could do that without a full tear down. After they proved themselves their usage expanded. 

Another advantage is that they are pretty tight so they hold push connect fittings and lines in place better than push connect bulkheads. This can matter when you have misters that seem to slowly move out of alignment.


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## DaveMorris (Sep 23, 2017)

Buy a 1/4" John Guests bulkhead from Marine Depot, Bulk Reef Supply, or AquaCave. They are PVC and the nut tightens on them without the threads breaking loose. I love my MistKing and it looks to be built like a tank. However, those bulkhead fittings they use suck really bad. Cheapest, crappiest I have ever seen.


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## MrBiggs (Oct 3, 2006)

Another try, another fail. Today I bought a new container, this time one with a straight panel rather than a bucket. I made sure my hole was perfectly sized, including measuring the physical drill bit to the bulkhead itself. After drilling, I carefully cleaned the hole of any burrs. And... it leaked anyway.

I slathered the bleeping thing with silicone and walked away.


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## Encyclia (Aug 23, 2013)

The only thing I can think of is maybe the O rings that come with the bulkheads are old or no longer supple enough to get the job done? Maybe try slathering in vaseline or some other rubber compound to make sure the O ring is not too rigid. Sorry you are having so much trouble :-(

Mark


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## MrBiggs (Oct 3, 2006)

Encyclia said:


> The only thing I can think of is maybe the O rings that come with the bulkheads are old or no longer supple enough to get the job done? Maybe try slathering in vaseline or some other rubber compound to make sure the O ring is not too rigid. Sorry you are having so much trouble :-(
> 
> Mark


Not possible. I opened a brand new, in package bulkhead for today's attempt. I ordered two last time just in case.

My only thought is maybe my hole is actually too small? When I'm pushing it through, perhaps I'm stripping juuuuuuust enough thread off that I can't get the nut right enough? Would explain why I can easily hand tighten the nut til the point it breaks. I'm no super hero, lol.

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## Zero (Nov 10, 2017)

This happened to me but I later found out that you need to put the rubber ring that comes with the kit. I had to really tighten the screw.


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## Cakers (Sep 10, 2017)

I'm a total rookie with MistKing but was able to drill hole and worked perfect first time no leaks after 4 months. However I have done all types of home renovating for 25 yeaers and I agree with Pumilio to use sharp drill bit, go in straight, and clean up edges-I used fine sanding paper and went around edges. They do make square buckets as well which might make it easier.


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## ldaniell (Apr 18, 2018)

This thread is perfect timing because my Mistking arrives Monday. I've been wondering why everyone installs the bulkhead on the side of the bucket instead of the top and then hard-piping down to the bottom of the bucket. I'm pretty sure bulkheads are meant to seal flat surfaces. Please let me know if there is a reason for not installing on top.


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## MrBiggs (Oct 3, 2006)

ldaniell said:


> This thread is perfect timing because my Mistking arrives Monday. I've been wondering why everyone installs the bulkhead on the side of the bucket instead of the top and then hard-piping down to the bottom of the bucket. I'm pretty sure bulkheads are meant to seal flat surfaces. Please let me know if there is a reason for not installing on top.


MistKing pumps need to be gravity fed.

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## Phyllobates (Dec 12, 2008)

I use a square bucket. Cat litter buckets work nicely.


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## ldaniell (Apr 18, 2018)

MrBiggs said:


> MistKing pumps need to be gravity fed.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U1 using Tapatalk


So the pumps can't be primed? Surely the pump doesn't need to be installed below the water level permanently. Does it?


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## MrBiggs (Oct 3, 2006)

ldaniell said:


> So the pumps can't be primed? Surely the pump doesn't need to be installed below the water level permanently. Does it?


Yes, it should be.

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## jam5971 (Apr 27, 2017)

ldaniell said:


> So the pumps can't be primed? Surely the pump doesn't need to be installed below the water level permanently. Does it?




Yes pump needs to be below the water to ensure it works correctly.


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## ldaniell (Apr 18, 2018)

MrBiggs said:


> Yes, it should be.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U1 using Tapatalk


That's a terrible design.


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## Encyclia (Aug 23, 2013)

ldaniell said:


> That's a terrible design.


It doesn't have to be below the entire reservoir. You just have to have some head. Mine sits on the floor right next to the reservoir (also on the floor). The difference between the top of the of the 5 gallon bucket and the bottom is enough.

As for the design, I think it has to do with the power of the pump being directed toward pressurizing the outflow rather than toward pulling on the input side. Pressure washers seem to have to make the same design compromise for the same reason.

Mark


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## MrBiggs (Oct 3, 2006)

Encyclia said:


> It doesn't have to be below the entire reservoir. You just have to have some head. Mine sits on the floor right next to the reservoir (also on the floor). The difference between the top of the of the 5 gallon bucket and the bottom is enough.


That's how I've always done mine as well. The drop from the bulkhead to the pump is less than 1". Never had problems, other than drilling the stupid bulkhead itself.

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## jam5971 (Apr 27, 2017)

My pump is on the floor with the bucket reservoir sitting next to it raised about 2”. Works a treat.


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## DaveMorris (Sep 23, 2017)

jam5971 said:


> My pump is on the floor with the bucket reservoir sitting next to it raised about 2”. Works a treat.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


This is how I set mine up as well. I too wish I could mount the MistKing pump on the back wall of my stand, but oh well. I just made a bit of an adjustment to my overall plan.


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## ldaniell (Apr 18, 2018)

MrBiggs said:


> The bulkhead instructions were followed to the letter


I know you said you followed the instructions to the letter, but I made the wrong assumption in placing the o-ring on the inside (the nut side) like other bulkheads. This caused the bucket to leak. I switched the o-ring to the outside and now it doesn't leak. Could you have possibly made this same wrong assumption?


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## MrBiggs (Oct 3, 2006)

ldaniell said:


> I know you said you followed the instructions to the letter, but I made the wrong assumption in placing the o-ring on the inside (the nut side) like other bulkheads. This caused the bucket to leak. I switched the o-ring to the outside and now it doesn't leak. Could you have possibly made this same wrong assumption?


Unfortunately, no.


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## skArts (Oct 11, 2020)

MrBiggs said:


> I've been in the hobby for over a decade. In that time I've built dozens of tanks, experimented with many different backgrounds, false bottoms, and myriad construction strategies. I've drilled glass, plumbed tanks, and generally done a little bit of everything. That's not to say that I'm an expert in any of it, just that I'm no newbie.
> 
> HOWEVER, one thing that I have never managed to do successfully is get a Mistking bulkhead to fit in a 5g bucket without leaking. I've tried... I believe 8 times, and never once have I managed to do it. No matter how dedicated I am to following the simple instructions perfectly, they leak. Every. single. time. It's gotten to the point that I dread it more than any other aspect of building a new tank.
> 
> ...




Hey, new here, but been creepin this forum since I got my Hylos 6 years ago. Was running into the same problems as you this morning with the bulkheads. It's a shame such a great pump comes with such poor hardware. I use regular pvc painters buckets. I finally had the idea to heat up the area around the hole with a blow dryer before adding the fitting. Do not do this with the bulkhead attached, it could mess up the o ring. Hope this helps anyone else with this problem in the future


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## Encyclia (Aug 23, 2013)

skArts said:


> Hey, new here, but been creepin this forum since I got my Hylos 6 years ago. Was running into the same problems as you this morning with the bulkheads. It's a shame such a great pump comes with such poor hardware. I use regular pvc painters buckets. I finally had the idea to heat up the area around the hole with a blow dryer before adding the fitting. Do not do this with the bulkhead attached, it could mess up the o ring. Hope this helps anyone else with this problem in the future


That's a good idea. I will have to try that next time. I have not had a problem with my bulkhead fitting since I moved to a 20 gallon garbage can as reservoir after I got an RO system. The larger diameter on the garbage can seems to help with the bulkhead working.

Mark


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## fishingguy12345 (Apr 7, 2019)

I use a rectangular plastic storage container, like a plastic shoe box style. It's been going for 5-6 months now with no leaks.


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## Socratic Monologue (Apr 7, 2018)

I missed this discussion the first time around, so I'll add my $0.02. 

I use a normal 5 gallon bucket, and the pump sits on the floor next to the bucket. The bulkhead, though, goes through the bucket above the water line -- about an inch or two from the top of the bucket -- and a hose extends from the inside of the bulkhead to the bottom of the bucket.

The line needs to be primed on the first use (to fill the tube that runs from the bottom of the bucket over the water line and down to the pump) but as long as the bucket never runs dry, water is pumped just fine, and has for a few years now.

If I wanted the bulkhead below the water line, I'd support the bucket off the ground an inch or two and drill the flat bottom.


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## jeffkruse (Jun 5, 2018)

My solution was simple. Use two nuts. One nut will strip to easy.


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## Pubfiction (Feb 3, 2013)

I have always put my pumps a little above the reservoir but generally below the vivariums I have not found a problem with this. I dont think I actually have any mist king brand pumps but the pumps I have are comparable. I never knew there could be so much trouble associated with this. My pumps have run dry many times and when water returns to the reveroir they manage to pump. Makes me wonder if there is anything different about the pumps.


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## Socratic Monologue (Apr 7, 2018)

Reviving this one again, since I bumped into Uniseals, and thought they might work here:





__





Uniseal® Pipe-to-Tank Seals | U.S. Plastic Corp.


Uniseal® is the world's best seal, and installing it is a simple process. After cutting a hole in the wall of a tank or other surfaces, t...




www.usplastic.com





Seems froggers have been using these for years, even as viv bulkheads:









Has anyone used uniseals instead of bulhead fittings?


I ran across these uniseals while looking for 1/4" bulkhead fittings for front drains on my vivs. Wondered if anyone had used them? Look like they would be easy to install on an existing viv and then you push a piece of whatever length tubing you want into them. Ken Uniseals For Sale -...




www.dendroboard.com













Uniseals a cheaper bulkhead alternative


A lot of people want to make sure water does not overflow in the drainage layer and they add in plastic bulkheads to drain after a certain water height is reached. Many times people decide after they have already made a vivarium they want to do this but cannot as it would require a full tear...




www.dendroboard.com





Some report that they fail over time...









Drainage bulkheads


Where do you guys and gals get your drainage bulkheads for your tanks on the cheap ?




www.dendroboard.com





...but I just found one on my ~10 years running denitrator on my reef that doesn't leak a bit.


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## MrBiggs (Oct 3, 2006)

The new MistKing bulkheads are awesome. They have solved every issue I've had with them in the past.

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## Pubfiction (Feb 3, 2013)

I have been constantly using uniseals since I made the bulkhead post and none of failed almost all my tanks now have them. And one of their biggest strengths is dealing with ugly imperfect seals in buckets and other objects.


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## Socratic Monologue (Apr 7, 2018)

Can you use vinyl/silicone tubing directly into the Uniseal, or do you need to use a rigid pipe or fitting? Thinking of ~1/2 inch for viv drains.


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## Pubfiction (Feb 3, 2013)

I have never tried that but I think it would have to do with how thick the walls are, I dont see why not all the tube has to do is push out enough to seal and not collapse, however, some flexible tubing are going to be too pliable to work well. I would also think about how much heat. Also with uniseals nothing stops you from combining parts. IE you could use a barbed 90 degree rigid fitting in the uniseal and then hook up flexible tubing to that. 
But personally I just found it was easier to buy push connect in bulk and use that and when i run out I might even move up to a bigger size like 3/4 inch or something.


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## jgragg (Nov 23, 2009)

MrBiggs said:


> Yes, I've definitely considered a flat sided container. However, the stand it's going in is a corner stand, so a rectangular container wastes a lot of extra space. :-/


Cylindrical isn't going to be much better. It may be a bridge too far for you, but...what about building your own "corner unit" reservoir out of glass? My current MK reservoirs are a pair of 10-g aquaria. I swear, I'm _never_ going back to a fucking bucket. A flat pane of glass is wonderful to work with, for bulkheading.

I could be crazy. Some days it seems likely. But this could work for you.

Good luck!


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