# Design Principles



## bobberly1 (Jul 16, 2008)

With naturalistic aquariums, there are many books and wellknown theories on how to properly design an attractive planted aquarium. However, with terrariums, people just tend to freestyle and see how it turns our, learning with time. Does anyone have any design principles that they use and would like to share?


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## ESweet (Apr 13, 2009)

Maybe it is me, but I feel as though aquariums are more about 'looking good' to the viewer while dart frog enclosures are more about the frog... Maybe not. Still, I like a decent looking terrarium. A few 'design principles' that I guess could be called 'crossing lines' and 'multiple levels.' Basically, I feel if you have two pieces of wood/cork crossing eachother or at least pointing different directions. I often have two furniture pieces working like this; one going up, back and to the right with another going up back and to the left - Looks good in my opinion. As for 'multiple levels', I think vivariums have much more character when the plants aren't all planted on the same line or even the same plane. Plant some low, some high some closer to the front and some further to the back. I guess another thing that I do that I feel brings attraction to the tank is using different substrates. Some areas I'll use sphagnum moss while others I'll use coir, and mix it a bit in other places.

In the end, it's all about your own preference though - find people who have tanks you like and try to pin-point what you like about it - the diversity or amount of plants, the location of plants, the terrain, the shape of the terrarium, substrate used, background used. Also remember, that plants grow a lot and you should plan for that. Good luck =]


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## bobberly1 (Jul 16, 2008)

ESweet said:


> Maybe it is me, but I feel as though aquariums are more about 'looking good' to the viewer while dart frog enclosures are more about the frog... Maybe not.


Not trying to be dissenting, but I've always felt the opposite way. Many fish tanks I've seen and kept are simply bare with maybe a flowerpot or a clump of java moss if you're lucky. On the other hand, frog tanks are almost always at least mildly well designed with some plants, substrate, etc.

Also, beyond principles, anyone that has any specific techniques they use are welcome to post those too.


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## Fishman (Jan 16, 2007)

Mike, I have thought about this same thing. Although I have not tried it yet, I have saved the last two years of photos from the world planted tank competitions to use as inspiration. I also thought of getting Takashi Amano's books about aquarium design and using the same principles. Sorry I don't have any exact answers but just wanted to chime in.


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## bobberly1 (Jul 16, 2008)

That's a good point, I wonder if there's a crossover. It would be difficult though considering you're imitating a diferent type of environment and the plants don't grow nearly as tall terrestrially.


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## Fishman (Jan 16, 2007)

I think the cross over principles would be more with the hard scape (rocks, driftwood, placment, etc.). There are some plants that would mimic aquatic plants, not to mention the anubias and java moss that can grow in vivs as well.


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## JoshH (Feb 13, 2008)

Fishman said:


> Mike, I have thought about this same thing. Although I have not tried it yet, I have saved the last two years of photos from the world planted tank competitions to use as inspiration. I also thought of getting Takashi Amano's books about aquarium design and using the same principles. Sorry I don't have any exact answers but just wanted to chime in.



There's definately a difference between a nature inspired terrarium/aquarium (ie:Amano) and one that replicates an actual habitat. The Amano tanks are awesome looking, but often far from natural. They are the aquatic version of the traditional Japanese garden, and use the plants and hardscape to create a whole miniture landscape with fields, valleys, mountains, etc. 

However, I think that the most important lesson to take out of the Amano style tanks is the object of balance. Balance and scale are the most important aspects of designing a truly attractive display while maintaining the natural look. 

I always compared dart frog terrariums with reef aquariums. They both typically are more naturally designed than the other areas of the hobby. They both often feature much more detail in all aspects of the habitat from hardscape to getting the right micro-habitats, extensive hardware like lighting, and an overall attempt to recreate the habitat as much as possible. Compare dart terrariums with terrariums built to house leopard geckos, pythons, etc. They just dont typically focus on designing the best looking and most natural habitat in the way that the dart hobby does. Same way with reef tanks vs goldfish, oscars, etc.

I hope this all makes sense ;-)


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## bobberly1 (Jul 16, 2008)

Thanks for the input Josh, you're one of the people that I was hoping would notice this.


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## roxrgneiss (Sep 30, 2007)

Good topic, this is something I've thought about also.

I think the balance that a lot of aquarium (planted tank) keepers strive for is harder to reproduce in a terrarium that is set up for dart frogs and contains many of the traditional dart-frog-tank plants. I think bromeliads can work nicely when 'balancing' a terrarium, but more often than not, their awkward placement and large (compared to the scale) size makes it difficult, especially in smaller tanks. The manageability/growth habits of aquatic plants could make maintaining the balance more achievable too. We grow a lot of plants for their durability (trampling), cover, egg-laying, and egg-feeding that are broad-leaved and often large for the size of the tank, which makes developing a little garden more of a feat. In addition, many planted aquariums don't have the backgrounds that most of us seem to desire for mounting plants, creating depth, and adding some 'security' for the frogs - this is another entire dimension to factor in the design.

As far as my opinions about design and what is appealing to me: I think all but the most intricate or well-thought out hardscapes have a habit of leaving a tank looking flat and less attractive. Without the use of wood, rocks, or fabricated materials that appear natural, I think one easy step to making a terrarium more interesting and less flat is: simply using substrate or other materials as a subfloor to elevate the substrate near the back or back corners, creating some kind of slope or multiple slopes. This sort goes along with what ESweet was saying about taller plants in the back and shorter plants in the front - it allows you to keep everything in view and give the tank some depth. This does use a fair amount of space and is a little more challenging in a smaller tank, but I think it's well worth the potential results.

One other aspect that I find to be a real challenge is placing plants in ideal locations, so that they can stand out or frame other plants and elements of the tank to add interest. A lot depends on the planting locations on the ground level and planting locations built into the hardscape, like background, branches/vines, driftwood, levels, etc. Since almost every tank (at least any that have these options built into the design) and almost all wood and other materials used are unique, I think this aspect is like learning an art and can only be improved and better understood with practice. However, I think there are some things that can improve the planted design of a terrarium from the start, like mounting bromeliads at angles from each other, instead of lining them up in a row at the same level or positioning extra levels and driftwood near the back or to the sides to give the tank a less cluttered look or finding driftwood, etc that keeps with the scale of the tank. Those are all pretty easy, but more difficult when using small tanks, which allow for less flexibility, in my opinion. 

I can think of plenty on the subject, but I'm not ready to write a book.  Plus, everyone has their own idea of what 'natural' in a frog tank looks like, right?  To some, minimalism is the way to recreate dart's habitats, since much of a forest floor is leaf litter with a plant growing up here or there and so that is what a tank should look like - to me, not having several square meters to develop the ultimate natural habitat means the frogs don't have that much space to inhabit and find security, so my answer is using hardscape and (lots of) plants to provide cover and also make something that I can admire.

Mike


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## bobberly1 (Jul 16, 2008)

Thanks for the well thought out response Mike, keep em comin' everyone!


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## JoshH (Feb 13, 2008)

Well said Mike!

To elaborate on what I was saying about balance in the terrarium; obviously the size and type of enclosure depends on what type of habitat you are going to represent and the animals that you plant to house. I think alot of tanks try to feature landscapes that are simply too big or complicated for the size of the tank. You can build a habitat in almost any size container, but above all the whole system must be in scale with its components. For instance, a tree buttress will not look realistic if scaled down to a very small enclosure such as a ten gallon. You could do a small part of a tree trunk or crevice in that amount of space, but everything comes down scale. 

One method that I like to use for getting an idea of scale and proportion is to go outside and visit various natural habitats. If your goal is a mossy, boulder strewn stream-side; then take a tape measure and use it to get a realistic idea of how big an area of space is needed to achieve the look. Start to put a mental “frame” around natural scenes, and vision those images inside an enclosure. Another great way is to take lots of photos of habitat close-ups. Rotten logs, mossy boulders, and root covered banks all are great sources of inspiration for me. These pictures will be very handy once you start designing the system. Once you have an idea of what habitat you want to create, you'll know what size tank you need to pull it off.

The other thing I notice when I'm exploring habitats is nature is often very random, yet organized at the same time. Tiny details like the way aroids and other epiphytes grow off the branches always amaze me. Or the way ferns and other plants grow out of the bare rocks, all are details that should be incorporated into natural terraria. I love just seeing the delicate mosses growing in cracks on the sidewalk or roof in the city, nature always seems to get the right look no matter the obstacles..........


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## SLEDDER23 (Mar 17, 2005)

1) Feng shui

best lesson I have had was with a friend who sat in my driveway with me for probably almost 2 hours moving, cutting, adding, taking out wood until we got a "flow" from front to back and side to side. Lesson: take your time and move stuff around before being "done". Even if you don't know (who does?!) the principles of Feng Shui, your eye knows what works and what doesn't. Even if you don't believe in Feng Shui, or all of the mumbo jumbo behind it, there is something to it and your sub conscious is in tune with it. Maybe that sounds corny, but that is what I believe. We all see certain patterns or designs that we like, even if we can't place our finger on why.

I think the 2009 vivarium contest is a good example: http://www.dendroboard.com/forum/contests/37962-2009-vivarium-voting.html

viv #3 is tecnically and w/o respect to the planting and hardscaping far and away the best, but most choose # 9. IMO I think a lot of those that did can't say why, but it is there. take away some bad pics and you have some good tanks.

#7 is sweet, but almost too centered so there is no flow. It is awesome though!
#10 has beautiful plants, but to me it looks like too much
#14 is an awesome looking tank, but the inside to me is just "flat" as some above have suggested. There is no depth, or again flow if you will.

So #9 wins out. I think Feng Shui is the answer.

2) Look at pictures from past contests and see what appeals to you. Save the pics and refer back to them. Try to determine what you like about them more than trying to copy them. Look at the lines as much as you notice materials and plant types.

3) My Pet Peeve: Rocks do not occur in nature stacked like siding on a house, or grow up a wall, so don't silicone rocks to the side of a pond or up the back like they occur that way in nature. If you are using rocks, you're better off randomly dropping them in your tank with your eyes closed as mother nature does, or again taking the time to place them so that the "work". I really only see "noobs" do this, but it kills me that someone would put all the time and love in this hobby to glue 20 rocks in a little cluster.

4) Take some time and go walking in the woods. look at the details, how do things "occur" or how does nature "design" them. I like stream beds personally, but am not enough of an artist myself to re-create what occurs randomly in nature. That to me is the hardest challenge. 

Good luck, and great post. I hope others will chime in, maybe include pics of their tanks. At some point this or something similar should be a nice sticky.


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## roxrgneiss (Sep 30, 2007)

Right on guys! You both made good, logical points. And you both brought out another major aspect: generating natural v/s simply aesthetically pleasing. I think both can be had in the same design/tank, but it isn't often done. Definitely something serious to consider when planning out and making a terrarium. I like the way this topic is going. 

Mike


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## JoshH (Feb 13, 2008)

SLEDDER23 said:


> 1) My Pet Peeve: Rocks do not occur in nature stacked like siding on a house, or grow up a wall, so don't silicone rocks to the side of a pond or up the back like they occur that way in nature. If you are using rocks, you're better off randomly dropping them in your tank with your eyes closed as mother nature does, or again taking the time to place them so that the "work". I really only see "noobs" do this, but it kills me that someone would put all the time and love in this hobby to glue 20 rocks in a little cluster.


I agree thats one area where alot of designers seem to have trouble with. I wouldn't say that they should be just dropped in though, instead carefully balanced among each other. People often fail to take into consideration the natural movements of landscapes. In regards to rockwork, water and gravity are the biggest players in arranging them in a real habitat. Water and gravity will carefully balance objects in the most natural and appealling manner. One should invision these forces and how they would natural act on hardscape objects and materials when they are designing the display. Thats how you get the awesome rock scenes such as found in streams or on Tepuis......in fact a walk along a mountain stream would do wonders for alot of people in terms of how they design things in their terrariums.


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## Ed (Sep 19, 2004)

http://www.dendroboard.com/forum/parts-construction/34668-natural-terrarium-design.html


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## roxrgneiss (Sep 30, 2007)

SLEDDER23 said:


> 3) My Pet Peeve: Rocks do not occur in nature stacked like siding on a house, or grow up a wall, so don't silicone rocks to the side of a pond or up the back like they occur that way in nature. If you are using rocks, you're better off randomly dropping them in your tank with your eyes closed as mother nature does, or again taking the time to place them so that the "work". I really only see "noobs" do this, but it kills me that someone would put all the time and love in this hobby to glue 20 rocks in a little cluster.





JoshH said:


> I agree thats one area where alot of designers seem to have trouble with. I wouldn't say that they should be just dropped in though, instead carefully balanced among each other. People often fail to take into consideration the natural movements of landscapes. In regards to rockwork, water and gravity are the biggest players in arranging them in a real habitat. Water and gravity will carefully balance objects in the most natural and appealling manner. One should invision these forces and how they would natural act on hardscape objects and materials when they are designing the display. Thats how you get the awesome rock scenes such as found in streams or on Tepuis......in fact a walk along a mountain stream would do wonders for alot of people in terms of how they design things in their terrariums.



I can see where you guys are coming from with regards to the most natural arrangement of rocks in a tank - I would like to point out that the way in which water/gravity naturally sort out rocks has as much to do with the geology as with the force or water under gravity. With rocks that weather unevenly, like some massive sandstones, some metamorphic, and igneous rocks, etc you'll find that they can become round and piles of boulders can develop, like here and here. Some other kinds of sedimentary and metamorphic rocks, like shale, slate, and phyllite, for example, appear as stacked sheets due to their cleavage, though more often when they are still within the rock unit, like here and here. In the last two linked photos, the horizontally layered rocks represent knick points where the water has reached a resistant rock type or compositional layer. 

Stacking rocks, especially if the water feature or 'pile' is meant to resemble a knick point (waterfall) where rocks with cleavage are present or simply to produce a cliff face, seems like a natural-enough concept. I know that sometimes the 'rules' of how a stone should lay aren't always followed, but it all depends on what kind of look the builder is hoping to fabricate. I suppose your sense of what looks natural based on your eye and what you have seen, then your abilities and resources make the difference. The difficulty with making a rock feature look truly natural in a terrarium is the lack of whatever torrent, creek, or ephemeral stream weathers and positions the rocks just so, as in nature. I think some aspects of nature are nearly impossible to transfer into a tank, try as we might. I can say that I have arranged and glued more than 20 flat rock pieces to form a water feature and it came out pretty well, although maybe not 100% natural.  

Mike


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## Gh0stw4lk3r (Jun 5, 2008)

I have some experience with aquariums and used this technique for my viv.
over here we use the rule of thirds ( often used in photography)









the point is that with these lines u can determin where u have strong focal points, so that is where u add your strong features, so never place your strong elements in the middle of your scape

explaination of rule of thirds:
Photo School - Rule of Thirds

i used this method in my own tank, ofcourse not everything can be at a strong focal point, but i hop you get the idea


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## Marinarawr (Jan 14, 2009)

I know that for my next background project I've been spending a lot of time looking at rock formations, and cliff faces to really get a feel for how the stone will split and slant. I think the biggest mistake some people make when building a rock wall (well not really a mistake but perhaps a "faux pas") is to make it look like a stone wall rather than a rock face. Of course I'm not complaining because all I did was stick cork bark to my background . 

As for centering, I think it's a matter of the person focusing on what they want to see and not how they want to show off what they want to see. I wouldn't be surprised if many of the people with beautiful vivariums that have near perfect "flow" are also photographers. Setting up a vivarium is exactly like setting up a photo (the rule of thirds that Ghost so finely demonstrated ). Also, just as Sledder had elaborated on, Feng Shui is just like setting up a photo but in 3D. I think that the key to good vivarium design is studying what occurs naturally and pairing it up with a balance of Feng Shui and photography (the photo structure anyway).

Lastly, I feel like one huge bonus to quarantining frogs before adding them to the vivarium (or in addition to building ahead of time) is the opportunity to keep moving things around . Even now I still reach into my vivarium and push some soil, drop a leaf, and I've even been really bad and uprooted a couple of plants for repositioning . As Sledder said "your eye knows what works and what doesn't". If all else fails just make it up as you go along and allow some time to tweak at your leisure.


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## bobberly1 (Jul 16, 2008)

Wow! Lots of responses! Thanks for the thorough responses and the five stars everyone.


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## JoshH (Feb 13, 2008)

Funny, I never relly thought about the similarities between photography and terrarium design.....The design aspect behind taking great photos definately would be useful in designing really beautiful terrariums. 

I always view a good terrarium design as a living, evolving thing. Not just something that is built and assembled, but a system that needs to be fine tuned to achieve the best performance and look. It constantly changes, the best designers realize this and learn to predict how it will evolve. 

Rox~Mike, I knew you'd jump into the rock/stone topic! ;-)

This could turn into a really great thread, keep the ideas coming.....


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## frograck (May 1, 2005)

I'm no expert but I have a few ideas, or maybe I should call them prefrences.
I like tanks with fewer plant species when compared to tanks with dozens of plant species. I think the latter looks "cluttered." 
I think SNapple has demonstrated well just how striking a well designed viv with only a few species can look!

I identify a few components before slapping together a viv...
-substrate
-background
-hardscape
-accents

-feature plant
-cover plant 
-accent plant


~Feature plants are usually bromeliads for me.
~cover plants are things like creeping fig, selleginella, synogium, and other plants that can cover the background. 
~I like only one or two accent plants, I tend to prefer ferns.

When planning a viv I try to plug in an item to each component and imagine it on paper. No matter how much planning I do, it always changes when you start assembling.

Also... I suggest having all your componets in the room before assembling the tank. I don't even make a background untill I have the plants and wood in the room so that when I put it all together it "fits."

p.s. 10 gallon tanks are too small for a water feature or a foamed backroung to look good in.


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## JoshH (Feb 13, 2008)

Hmmm, this thread topic has a habit of quickly dying..... :-(


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## roxrgneiss (Sep 30, 2007)

jmailhot said:


> I'm no expert but I have a few ideas, or maybe I should call them prefrences.
> I like tanks with fewer plant species when compared to tanks with dozens of plant species. I think the latter looks "cluttered."


I think that hits the nail on the head. It's all about preference; what one person sees as the _most_ natural and/or aesthetically pleasing isn't necessarily the same for all. So much of the design comes from YOU, not just your artistic abilities, but how you see the world... or perhaps just the world inside a glass vessel. 



JoshH said:


> Hmmm, this thread topic has a habit of quickly dying..... :-(


Yeah, this kind of topic is so broad that it's hard to find a specific subject to delve into, much less stay on one. 

How about just Background Design for a little while? This is where most tanks begin and clearly an aspect that can set them apart as memorable or just another tank. **Cork, *Treefern, *Great Stuff Foam/Silicone/Coco Fiber, *Closed-Cell Foam/Concrete/Mortar, *Closed-Cell Foam/Epoxy, *Driftwood, *Natural Rock, *Combinations of these, or *No BG at all* - some are more challenging,time consuming, and/or expensive than others, but each has it's own benefits and each can be done in such a way that most viewers find it pleasing, sometimes even before planting. 

*What are the best methods for making them?* (_I don't mean the brands of products or the process, I mean what about the finished product makes the best Backgrounds so nice to most eyes - *lets discuss the design methods that can make Backgrounds really nice and also really functional*_.) Perhaps, this is too broad of a topic, but I think it could be a starting point. 

I have a request.  Can you tell us about how you made the background for this viviarium, Josh? I really like the functionality of it and how it adds to the overall depth. It seems like the structure allows for complete use of the BG, which is not something often seen. I've never seen it barren, so I can only guess as to the components used. This is a great tank in so many ways... from where I sit. 

Thanks,
Mike


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## colb (Mar 13, 2008)

The idea of having no background at all is something I've been contemplating as I am about to begin the construction of a new a new terrarium. 

Does anyone have any photos of tanks that do NOT have backgrounds? I'd be curious to see how they managed to pull it off. 

Wouldn't it be neat to have a terrarium set up as a center piece in a room, that could be viewed 360 degrees around!?! I guess the real challenge would be creating something that would provide sufficient cover/hiding spots for the frogs, without the use of a background...


This next idea will likely sound altogether silly, but I'm going to share it anyways since it's also something I've been considering. As a background covers the rear wall of a tank, would it not be unique to have a sort of ceiling or canopy covering the top of the tank (assuming it will be front opening), creating a 'topground'? Of course this concept would also be a 'no background' one. This canopy could provide a mounting place for plants to grow off of. I know lighting will be an issue, but I'm sure there is a solution for that as well...

From what I've seen, these build ideas are definitely not the 'standard', but I'm trying to force myself to think outside the box.

I'd be interested in hearing others thoughts on the idea I've proposed.


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## tonying (Mar 6, 2008)

Apart from the previously mentioned "rule of thirds", I personally like to play around with the three-dimensional space that is more typical for a viv than an aquarium. For example, an Exoterra tank (I have the 18x18x24 version) will have lots of "airspace" and diagonal depth. In my curren tank, I tried to play around with this concept by adding a fairly large hollow "log" from an aquarium store. It stretches from the upper part of the rear right corner to the lower part of the front left corner, thus occupying both diagonal space and "airspace". In my opinion, it adds a lot of interesting aspects, such as shadow and a "second floor". It blocks some of the view but I've tried to use this too to make the parts that are partially concealed more "mystical", i.e. they look farther away and are more difficult to "penetrate" with a gaze. 

The primary downside to playing with the threedimensional space is that it is damn near impossible to take good pictures of it. I think I'm at least a decent photographer but I can't seem to get good pics that convey the impression I'm trying to give. 

So, I've filmed it instead and uploaded the film on youtube; you can see it here: YouTube - Vivarium presentation 
The film isn't exactly a masterpiece in terms of focus and composition but it might give you some idea of what I'm trying to describe.

I wanted the visual effects of the viv to be a feeling of looking through vegetation and into an opening in the "jungle" and at the same time have a difference in height, providing a sort of "cliff", where the log is the equivalent of a thick branch.


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## bobberly1 (Jul 16, 2008)

Here's a backgroundless viv that I love:
http://www.dendroboard.com/forum/me...om-40-gal-tree-stump-euro-viv.html#post307352
I like how he uses bright colors without being gaudy, which I found through observation is done by only using one color other than the typical green. Some people's vivs look unnatural when they have colors in them, but I found the secret to using color by looking at that viv. Only use one accent color!


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## bobberly1 (Jul 16, 2008)

colb said:


> Wouldn't it be neat to have a terrarium set up as a center piece in a room, that could be viewed 360 degrees around!?!


My idea exactly! Find my thread in this section, I'm still planning it out.


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## roxrgneiss (Sep 30, 2007)

colb said:


> The idea of having no background at all is something I've been contemplating as I am about to begin the construction of a new a new terrarium.
> 
> Does anyone have any photos of tanks that do NOT have backgrounds? I'd be curious to see how they managed to pull it off.
> 
> As a background covers the rear wall of a tank, would it not be unique to have a sort of ceiling or canopy covering the top of the tank (assuming it will be front opening), creating a 'topground'?


Hey, here is another great vivarium with no BG.

I agree that lighting a tank with a canopy would be difficult, but side lighting is a possibility. You could find a way to orient the lights, so they don't limit/disturb viewing... I think mounting them would be a task though.



tonying said:


> Apart from the previously mentioned "rule of thirds", I personally like to play around with the three-dimensional space that is more typical for a viv than an aquarium. For example, an Exoterra tank (I have the 18x18x24 version) will have lots of "airspace" and diagonal depth. In my curren tank, I tried to play around with this concept by adding a fairly large hollow "log" from an aquarium store. It stretches from the upper part of the rear right corner to the lower part of the front left corner, thus occupying both diagonal space and "airspace". In my opinion, it adds a lot of interesting aspects, such as shadow and a "second floor". It blocks some of the view but I've tried to use this too to make the parts that are partially concealed more "mystical", i.e. they look farther away and are more difficult to "penetrate" with a gaze.


That looks really good. It does have that mysterious jungle look. I think adding some depth and a little mystery are great design tools that make a tank more attractive. Thanks for the video.

More later...


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## JoshH (Feb 13, 2008)

roxrgneiss said:


> I have a request.  Can you tell us about how you made the background for this viviarium, Josh? I really like the functionality of it and how it adds to the overall depth. It seems like the structure allows for complete use of the BG, which is not something often seen. I've never seen it barren, so I can only guess as to the components used. This is a great tank in so many ways... from where I sit.


Actually Mike, that tank was built way back before the foam craze or grout/epoxy rocks. So the only common choices were cork and tree fern panels. I wanted it to look like an overgrown rock wall but have enough organic planting spaces to cover with epiphytes. I got some really thin grey shale stepping stones from Home Depot and randomly siliconed them onto the back glass, interlocking them to get a good fit. In some places I alternated them with tree fern panels.

Then I mixed osmunda fiber with enough silicone to make it sticky and hand formed this concoction over the rock and tree fern seems to blend it in. I also formed planting pockets out of this stuff. The thin layer of silicone keeps it intact for many years without falling apart, kinda like a flevorpol mix does. Plants still easily root to these clumps too.

For added dimension I used tree fern logs and blocks that were cut and carved to look like boulders and roots. These were pinned together using stainless steel welding rods with silicone used to lock them in. I tried to make lots of large ledges and overhangs to give a really dimensional look to the whole thing. There was also a few good maple and oak roots that were glued to the back as well.

When the hardscape was done I just put as many different types of moss and mini-epiphytes on the back that I could find. It was really simple and used basic ingredients; the main thing was the use of plants to cover the underlying structure so as to give the illusion that it was a solid wall.


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## JoshH (Feb 13, 2008)

Speaking of tanks using no backgrounds, something I was thinking about is to try to use a clear cylinder as a terrarium. Ideally at least 24" or so wide with a height of around 30-40". The main problem would be getting a cost effective cylinder. Two acrylic halfs (bowed) could operate in a clamshell manner so you could access the tank. A large fabricated tree trunk with vines would run straight up the center of this, allowing planting on all sides, while having a 360 degree view. 

For lighting the obvious choice would be halides, though a built HI LED setup could help too.


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## skylsdale (Sep 16, 2007)

JoshH said:


> Speaking of tanks using no backgrounds, something I was thinking about is to try to use a clear cylinder as a terrarium...


You mean like this? Dendrobates ventrimaculatus (scroll down to see Brent's actual viv)


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## Gh0stw4lk3r (Jun 5, 2008)

tonying said:


> So, I've filmed it instead and uploaded the film on youtube; you can see it here: YouTube - Vivarium presentation
> The film isn't exactly a masterpiece in terms of focus and composition but it might give you some idea of what I'm trying to describe.
> 
> I wanted the visual effects of the viv to be a feeling of looking through vegetation and into an opening in the "jungle" and at the same time have a difference in height, providing a sort of "cliff", where the log is the equivalent of a thick branch.


thanks to your post i have done the same, so others might be able to use some of the ideas i've used (if they are interesting enough)
YouTube - Vivarium paludarium dendrobates leucomelas
my may of viv design


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## JoshH (Feb 13, 2008)

skylsdale said:


> You mean like this?QUOTE]
> 
> Ron, love it! It would be interesting to get a build breakdown on that from Brent; I bet that acrylic tube costs a fortune though. I was thinking of heat bending thinner sheet acrylic into a semicircle, it looks like he used a cast acrylic tube which would be better quality. I wonder if it has any other access points other than the top.......


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## JoshH (Feb 13, 2008)

Mike heres a few close ups showing the rock and treefern/silicone....there also was a big centerpiece lacerock too that was covered in selaginellas and aroids.


















Great videos guys!


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## bobberly1 (Jul 16, 2008)

I've seen fish tanks like that, you could just use one of those.

I love the success of this thread.


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## roxrgneiss (Sep 30, 2007)

Yes indeed, there has been some great input, today especially.

Thanks for the info, Josh. I never would have guessed treefern mixed with silicone - never even heard of that method used before in the way you describe it - good idea. I wish you had a shot of the BG before planting, there is a lot going on with the BG for sure.

Yeah, the videos were great guys; they really help us get a closer look. Thanks for sharing. 

So how about the backgrounds that are mainly vertical, like Cork and Treefern: *what is the best way to design a BG with flat materials that gives the tank some depth and shows off the plants, etc?* *What are some good things to avoid?* (_Assuming a shear vertical BG does have drawbacks, like the upper plants shading out those lower down and also having a flat effect. However, I'm sure there are some very nicely done vertical BGs out there._) 

For starters, the addition of Driftwood, Vines, or other features is a great way to break things up. I know some people use various kinds of tiers to create levels and add interest. Would anyone like to share some really good examples of these successful methods? (I think the two tanks in the videos are great examples of using extra decor materials to add depth and character.) I think it would help to see pictures of the backgrounds before and after planting, if possible.

Mike


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## colb (Mar 13, 2008)

I'm loving this thread more and more each time I visit it! Lots of great ideas being shared, as well as photos and videos... I even have more to think about now as I start my next viv!!!


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## tonying (Mar 6, 2008)

Gh0stw4lk3r said:


> thanks to your post i have done the same, so others might be able to use some of the ideas i've used (if they are interesting enough)
> YouTube - Vivarium paludarium dendrobates leucomelas
> my may of viv design


Beautiful viv! The size and many details make it even better suited for a movie than my viv. And it was great seeing the frogs jumping around in the background.


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## bbrock (May 20, 2004)

JoshH said:


> skylsdale said:
> 
> 
> > You mean like this?QUOTE]
> ...


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## JoshH (Feb 13, 2008)

bbrock said:


> JoshH said:
> 
> 
> > Hi Josh,
> ...


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## roxrgneiss (Sep 30, 2007)

I found a good example of one way to break up and add some depth to a flat background, Treefern in this case. This vivarium has a mostly flat background base, but some branches have been placed on/in front of it and I think the effect is pretty nice. I'm sure there are plenty of other examples, this one came up in a search. 

It would be neat if we could explore some ideas/methods of background design, then recap later on.

Mike


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## bobberly1 (Jul 16, 2008)

Another general warning I came up and thought I'd share, be careful with leaf patterns. The white veining, blotching, spotting, and striping in a lot of commonly sold tropical plants really clash and form a gawdy mess that looks very unnatural. I'm not saying it looks bad to use leaf patterning at all, just that you should be careful. The safest way to go is probably to use just one patterned plant.


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## JoshH (Feb 13, 2008)

roxrgneiss said:


> I found a good example of one way to break up and add some depth to a flat background, Treefern in this case. This vivarium has a mostly flat background base, but some branches have been placed on/in front of it and I think the effect is pretty nice. I'm sure there are plenty of other examples, this one came up in a search.
> 
> It would be neat if we could explore some ideas/methods of background design, then recap later on.
> 
> Mike


That looks really cool, though a few too many bromos for me. I find it natural to have many different species of plants, but having many species of the same family is hard to pull off. Can you imagine if it had alot less broms and all the roots were covered in dense mosses and ? It would have that cloud forest look....


bobberly1 ~ I agree with that statement. You wouldn't want zebra plant, Fittonia, and variegated spiderplant in the same display. Not only on leaf patterns though, but on using excessive bright colors. I love gaudy bromeliad hybrids as much the next guy, but a really natural terrarium shouldn't look like a pink and purple psychodelic dream......If you go out into the woods/rainforest, you see alot of similar colors and shapes in the foliage. Only sporadically do really striking plants stand out, what I like to refer to as "specimen plants".

On to backgrounds.....I think alot of relatively new background methods have taken off recently. I want to experiment with both grout and epoxy backgrounds alot more. The grout seems to be working very well, but I'd like to do some testing in the future on plant growth on these different substrates. For instance, the tank I built using the shale stepping stones on the background seemed to have much better plant growth directly on the rocks. It was constantly covered in moss too. The epoxy rocks I've made only support plants if there is constant moisture, they seem to be too inert and plants take a long time to establish themselves on it. 

Treefern panels always seemed like the best way to get that plant covered look really quickly. They are pretty much the ideal substrate and are easily carved into any shape. Even better if you use the treefern logs and stumps, the downside is the environmental impact and that they eventually breakdown.

I just put up another article on background materials on the site, just thoughts I've had over the years.....


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## bobberly1 (Jul 16, 2008)

JoshH said:


> Not only on leaf patterns though, but on using excessive bright colors.


I hear ya, I think I mentioned that earlier as well. A specimen plant can definitely look good, but I've always been a sucker for the subdued, low key, painfully realistic setups. Despite that, I think I'm making my treefern pole viv more of a epiphyte display tank. Still, realism will be attempted.


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## StevenBonheim (Feb 22, 2004)

Here's a no-background tank I set up a couple years ago...
Actually tearing it apart now to add a background!
The most important thing to take into account is scale. Sometimes it works to transplant a scene from nature directly into a glass box, but putting that scene in a box and stripping it of its surroundings really skews and distorts things. I would say the same "rules" of composition that apply to painting/drawing/sculpting/etc, apply to vivarium design...


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## JoshH (Feb 13, 2008)

StevenBonheim said:


> Here's a no-background tank I set up a couple years ago...
> Actually tearing it apart now to add a background!
> The most important thing to take into account is scale. Sometimes it works to transplant a scene from nature directly into a glass box, but putting that scene in a box and stripping it of its surroundings really skews and distorts things. I would say the same "rules" of composition that apply to painting/drawing/sculpting/etc, apply to vivarium design...


Steven ~ That's an awesome epiphtye branch! Is that a pleuro or a Restrepia near the top? I sometimes make terrariums without backgrounds but always end up regreting it later mainly for lack of planting space.

Yep, scale and proportion is the most important aspect of any design. You also need to be able to blend the habitat into the rest of the "box". The edges need to be softened. A huge chunk of bromeliads sitting in an empty tank with gravel on the bottom will look dumb. But to "feather" in the edges if you will; by building up the habitat that surrounds that bromeliad will give the whole display a natural look. Most plants and animals kept in the terrarium rely on their surrounding species and elements to look their best. 

And certain habitats really need a background. A desert tank might do ok without one, but in a rainforest system you're losing valuable planting and living space. In rainforests, this vertical space is one of the most diverse and variable habitats in existance. In the terrarium, you should think of it as an illusion you're trying to create. If you want viewers to really be convinced that your tank is a slice of the jungle, you want to avoid having a clear background showing off the wall and your power cords hanging down. Those awesome 360 degree viewable tanks are an exception of course


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## bobberly1 (Jul 16, 2008)

JoshH said:


> Steven ~ That's an awesome epiphtye branch!


I second that, that's what I'm hoping I can recreate. A species list would be great.


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## JoshH (Feb 13, 2008)

bobberly1 said:


> I second that, that's what I'm hoping I can recreate. A species list would be great.


Wait until you see his old tank, if he still has pics of that one..............


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## Otis (Apr 16, 2006)

Brock's Vivaria

Look under articles for "Of Fractals and Vivarium Design," its genius.


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## roxrgneiss (Sep 30, 2007)

otis07 said:


> Brock's Vivaria
> 
> Look under articles for "Of Fractals and Vivarium Design," its genius.



It's also the best poetry I've read about vivarium design.  Thanks for pointing that out, Emily. 

Scale is key where putting various elements together in a vivarium is concerned. Plants, background, and other materials are all more appealing when they are in scale with each other and with the tank in question.

Mike


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## RarePlantBroker (Aug 3, 2008)

I've been somewhat absent for a while. Fortunately, work has had me VERY busy as of late.

As has been stated balance is a big key. An empty corner in an otherwise heavily planted tank looks out of place. However, a tapering effect to the tank can provide a nice look. 

I also like to take many lessons form nature. For example: many of us (myself included at times) will use epiphytic bromeliads along the "floor" of a vivarium--and a part of me always thinks there's something "not quite right with the picture." Many epiphytic bromeliads will grow, however, just off the ground on a tree with enough light and an absence of predatory herbivores. 

I do tend to use a vast array of plants in my vivariums. Not that this is a design key, but a large part of my interest in keeping PDF's is my plant collection--and indoor, climate-controlled vivarium space is at a premium. Also, on plant collecting/spotting trips we've noted over 30 species of epiphyte on a single tree. 
I do like to plant groups of similar plants together. Earlier this year I purchased a group of 8 different Restrepia species from Little Frog Farms. I planted them fairly close together in a vivarium. From a foliage standpoint, it appears to be a large cluster of the same plant--but only when they bloom would you know they were different. 
I also like to landscape with plants from different families. In addition to the aroids, bromeliads, and orchids I've been experimenting with some tiny palm species and understory shrubs. There are a number of Chamaedorea palms that have trunks 1/2" in diameter, and max out at 5' (after many, many years of growth under ideal conditions). Some like Chamaedorea adscendens, C. metallica, and C. stolonifera just scream to go into a vivarium with 3' or more of height.

I finally found the leak in my large vivarium, have repaired said leak, and have had no issues for two weeks. So, I'm on track to finally finish this thing by the end of the month! I'll post pictures on my old construction thread within the week.

Alasdair

PS--if anyone is interested in cast, polished acrylic tubing--check out this site: 
ACRYLIC TUBE


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