# 10 gallon vert for vents



## rjmarchisi (Feb 16, 2004)

Well I have tested this tank to make sure it doesnt leak and flushed the sides with water to get ride of all other debris, hopefully my substrate will come in this week so I can plant it.










rjm


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## Scott (Feb 17, 2004)

*Very* nice job.

You may have mentioned elsewhere... but where did you get the hinge?

Is it siliconed?

And... careful with it! I can just SEE that thing swinging down and shattering (sorry about my vision!).

I just noticed you don't have a frame on this. Did you build it yourself or remove the frame from a standard 10g tank?

s


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## Guest (Jun 7, 2004)

You can get the hinges from P.O.T. and http://www.tapplastics.com, and they can be siliconed and clamped on. I have had pretty good luck with a bunch of setups, like rjmarchisi's above, but yes... doors do break if you are not careful. I once left a door closed but not latched to get more ff's and crash (Then it was frog jail break -- just imagine a pair of freaked out auratus and a 10G upright wide open  -- Frog rodeo). Also, the silicone will hold most of the time, but I have had two doors just fall off. It was because I put something down to hold the doors from resting on the metal rack, when open, and the torque produced must have just popped them off.


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## Scott (Feb 17, 2004)

I wonder if lightly etching the glass where you are going to attach the hinges would provide more traction for the glass/silicone/plastic to stick together better?

s


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## rjmarchisi (Feb 16, 2004)

This is sort of a continuation of the post in the parts section on the plastic hinges. This is a 10 gallon with the frame removed from it. I have had one of these tanks up for about 3 months with nothing bad happening to the hinge and glass. When feeding i am extremely carefully with how I open the door. I think as long as you let the silicon completely cure ( at least 2 days ) before even attempting to open it you will have good results. I have also leared that you need an ample amount of silicon under the hinge to get rid of all airbubbles. Before I silicon the hinge in place I windex the glass and hinge then wipe them with a wet paper towel to remove any additional residue ( rubbing alcohol should also work well and not cloud the plastic ). In addition when I silicon the glass in place I make sure it is a snug fit with the screen frame. With both of these tanks a good amount of force is needed to open the doors down due to the friction between the glass and screen frame so I dont think they will ever just fall.

rob


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## rjmarchisi (Feb 16, 2004)

*Update on tanks*

Well I finished the second one and planted them both. I took a quick pic of them this morning befor work, tonight I will take better ones.










rob


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## addam4208283 (Feb 19, 2004)

Great tanks. 

Where did you get the screen for the tops?
ADAM


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## rjmarchisi (Feb 16, 2004)

Made them, I got the pieces from the Home Depot and it was pretty easy.

rob


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## Guest (Jun 14, 2004)

If you have the time I would be awfully interested in a step by step process, or if you want to make some and ship them  But if you could at least list all of the supplies it took and maybe just a rough sketch of how you got to those I would greatly appreciate it. 

Chris Pyle


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## rjmarchisi (Feb 16, 2004)

Check out this thread as well in the parts section. It shows the progress of the tank up until the silicon/bed a beast part.

http://www.dendroboard.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=1465

After the great stuff foam is applied and all of the wood is cut and in place I coat the entire surface ( except the wood ) with silicon with a cheap paintbrush, then add a ton of dried out bed a beast and push it in with my hands. Once the silicon is dried I turn the tank over and shake out all of the loose dust. I get 2 pieces of 3/16" glass cut to 10" x 4" and 10" x 13.5" which leaves 2.5" for the screen section ( 1" worth of screen and .75" on each side for the trim. I silicon the 4" piece of glass in first, then place the 13.5" piece in place and silicon the screen section in place next, taping all pieces securely so there is no shifting. Once those 2 pieces are dry I silicon the hinge in place ( it took me about 4 trys on each tank to get no airbubbles, think I had really old silicon ), then I screw the clasps in place. Using these steps even if I unclasp the doors, the friction from the screen section holds them in place so they wont fall, but I am always evtremely careful when opening and closing the doors. After which I let the entire thing dry for a week, just in case anything is still not cured. I then add 2+" of hydroton clay pellets, a cut mesh to stop the substrate from getting into the hydroton, then add the substrate. The rest is just planting and adding moss. I plan to let these tanks develop for a week or two before I add the vents and fantasticus to them.

rob


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## Ryan (Feb 18, 2004)

Great tanks, i like how you take off the black rim, makes it look much more profesional. Great job your frogs are gonna love it.


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## Guest (Jun 14, 2004)

Could you explain your method of removing the frame from the upper rim? Thanks!

-Bill J.


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## rjmarchisi (Feb 16, 2004)

Hacksaw and a little elbow grease. Others have used a blade to cut the silicon away from the glass under the trim, but I dont save the frames for other tanks.


























































rob


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## Guest (Jun 14, 2004)

looks easy enough. Thanks!

-Bil J


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## Guest (Jun 14, 2004)

What is the black stuff in the back? And when talking about the clamps, do you mean just until the stuff dries or what? I'm sorry, very new, but I am going to start building two right now, and I want to do everything right. And those look really nice.

Chris PYle


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## Ryan (Feb 18, 2004)

Its silicone here is the method for the backround- http://www.blackjungle.com/gallery/talltank/page1.html


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## Guest (Jun 14, 2004)

thank you ryan. I am wondering now, do you do the same thing with the water lines? If not how do you mist the tanks? Do you have an automated system like I've seen on Saurian.net? Is there a cheaper but reliable system? And what do you use for your lighting after the tanks are complete? And how do you keep the heat up to the levels they like? Thank you for all and any input. 

Chris PYle


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## Ryan (Feb 18, 2004)

1- I have had no problems with it at waterlines

2- I mist the tank by hand with a pressurised mister

3- Go to the parts section there is a talk about a pump for 30 bucks i think that you can use to build your own.

4- I just use natural sun floresent bulbs.

5- Temps in my house are 75 and tanks are 78 with light so no problems there


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## Derek Benson (Feb 19, 2004)

I have a question that I was thinking offter viewing the tak pictures (very nice). I'm going to be making a plywood rack, with the same front opening techniques as in the pictures, except I'll have swinging doors for the larger tanks (most likely). I was wondering, if I sealed all 3 sides (plywood) with the great Stuff and bed-a-beast with driftwood, would it seal out all water? Therefore eliminated me slaving over the fiberglass resin?


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## Guest (Jun 14, 2004)

Why not look at a rubber sheet. Like the ones used for garden ponds? Or even the thin acrylic and silicone? I covered my wood with silicone then applied the great stuff over that.


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## Derek Benson (Feb 19, 2004)

I would have to put a layer of silicone all over the inside of the tank, how can I do this easily? I'm going to be making quite a few of these and want it to be easy. What's rubber sheet?


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## Guest (Jun 15, 2004)

What kind of silicone? Does anyone have a name brand? Or color to use? They say black in the article I was referenced to, is that true? Where do you buy your wood pieces and moss? Thanks, Chris Pyle 

What are you using to fasten the glass in the upright position so it doesn't swing down, I can see them but where did you find them? And I think that will be it for a while.

Ohh yeah, one more, where do you get that great stuff expanding foam or whatever it is? Ok now that is it


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## jhupp (Feb 27, 2004)

Derek,

Why don't you try an epoxy pool paint. If you are making several tanks the cost are justifiable, easy application, choice of colors, and you have a very water tight seal. This method is used in many aquarrium applications: reef tanks, coral farms, cichlid tanks. Also from what I have read on the subject there is much less fuss then with epoxy resin.


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## charrison (Mar 31, 2004)

Does anyone know if you can drill a hole in a standard ten gallon tank, for a misting system nozzle? and if it can be done, how?


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## Arklier (Mar 1, 2004)

It would probably be better to drill a hole in the lid rather than in the tank. A lot of tanks have tempered glass, which cannot be drilled. If you drill it, it will shatter.


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## Derek Benson (Feb 19, 2004)

Thanks JHupp, this sounds good. That way, If I want, I can cover it with cork bark or do the great stuff/bed-a-beast thing and I will know that it's sealed well. Do I get this at a regular pool maintance store? Online?


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## rjmarchisi (Feb 16, 2004)

A pool maintance store should have it, as well as Home Depot. You can order it online at http://www.mcmaster.com and do a search for rubber sheets. They sell some that is 36" wide and adhesive backed, think it was $6 per foot, but that seems like the easiest thing to do.

rob


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## Guest (Jun 15, 2004)

What substrate do you use? What plants do you keep in yours other than Bromeliads? And the worst question of all, how do you keep the plants where you want them and get them to root where you want? You said, it's just planting from there, but I don't see how you keep them there until they build up a root foundation.

Sorry so many questions, any answers are greatly appreciated,
Chris pyle


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## Ryan (Feb 18, 2004)

Questions are one of the reasons for this site!

This is my potting mix

2Parts Cocofiber
1Part orchid bark
1/2 Part Parilite
1/3 Part Vermiculite
1 Part partly decomposed oak leaves

Also I add some pillbugs and springtails to break down waist and to get rid of some of the mould when it builds up(usually only builds up when you first strat your viv)

Hope this helps
Ryan


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## Derek Benson (Feb 19, 2004)

Did you look at that link above to Black Jungle (wood and plant sales site)? AIt shows everything, read through the captions, they used fishing line I believe to mount some of the clumoed plants to wood and you can use wire to mount broms. Good luck.

*rjmarchisi*, is that link to the rubber sheet?


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## Guest (Jun 15, 2004)

Thanks Derek and Ryan, 

I saw that, but just wanted to make sure that procedure wasn't just for the bigger tanks. I read what plants they used also, but what are some better smaller ones for the 10 gallon tanks? Thanks, Chris Pyle 

Last questions, Where do you get the great stuff expanding foam, and where do you buy the mesh that goes between substrate and hydroton clay pebbles?


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## rjmarchisi (Feb 16, 2004)

The link is for the rubber sheet, you just need to do a search for it on the left side of the page. For the mesh between the substrate I just use the same fiberglass screen that I used for ventilation. All of the plants, including the bromeliad are just wedged into place with friction holding them up, hopefully they will stay like that. You can get the expanding foam at any hardware store, even the small local place by me has it. Personally I feel a 10 gallon vert is way to small to have a pump in it and there is no need if you mist and change the water that accumulates in the bottom every couple of weeks.

rob


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## Derek Benson (Feb 19, 2004)

How about this?

_Plastic Resin Wood Glue 
This powdered, water-activated wood glue forms bonds stronger than the wood itself. It's ideal for edge gluing, veneering, and laminating. Resists bacteria, fungi, gasoline, oil, solvents, and water. Begins to harden in 4 hours at 70° F. Reaches full strength in 13 hours. Color is tan. Meets Fed. Specs. MMM-A-188B, Type II and A-A-3052. _

It's $20 for 4.5 lbs, but it says it resists, meaning if there's water sitting in a false bottom, it will fail eventually?


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## jhupp (Feb 27, 2004)

charrison: You can drill a ten gallon tank, there is nothing special about the glass. See the links page to find out more.

Derek: I doubt the wood resin can handle complete saturation for extended periods. Home Depot doesn't sell the epoxy pool coatings, but you should be able to get it through any pool store. The stuff is a two part liquid that you paint on, not a vinyl sheet. Here are a few links:

http://store.yahoo.com/poolsinc/epoxytypeep.html

http://www.intheswim.com/catalog.cfm/dest/product/deptid/1140/productid/1584/storeid/134

http://www.aqua-pool-warehouse.com/...paintNDeckCoatings.asp#Epoxy Type EP HI Build

[/url]http://www.intheswim.com/catalog.cfm/dest/product/deptid/1140/productid/349/storeid/134


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## geckguy (Mar 8, 2004)

jhupp is right you can drill a 10 gallon tank, tanks usally only have tempered glass on the bottom, and that is if it is a big tank. I drill all my tanks with a diamond hole saw bit from harborfreight.com, I use the 1/4" bit and I use vinyl 1/4" tubing to drain into a 5 gallon bucket. It is much easier than using a siphon, especially since I just finished my frog room and there is 15 tanks and more are being added all the time. Just make sure you have a piece of packaging tape on the inner surface of the tank (i find this helps keep the tank from cracking), and you need to keep the hole wet, to reduce friction, I drill my tanks outside so I get my hose and set it on a low setting and I get a perfect hole everytime. Lastly dont push on the drill let the weight of the drill make the hole for you, you want to slowly grind away the glass, if you do it fast you will most likely break the tank.


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## Derek Benson (Feb 19, 2004)

So, will this epoxy pool paint last longer in a terrarium than a regular pool, since not exposed to the same conditions, especially if covered by a background of some some sort. The pricing seems to be about the same on them, just have to see which one covers the most surface area. I think it would only take one coat with the plywood? I'm going to be running a bead of silicone on all seams for added protection.


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## geckguy (Mar 8, 2004)

I just remebered I didnt get the bit from harbor freight, here is a link to the place I got mine it is the diamond core bit, near the bottom http://www.shopsmartxpress.com/AmeriGls/AmrDefault.htm?M9a.htm


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## Guest (Jun 15, 2004)

Thank you Geckguy, that is very helpful, I will be buying on of those bits today. So would it be wise to get a piece of something smooth and sturdy that slants downhill only like a 1/4 inch to wear the hole is drilled, so when water goes through the substrat and through the hydroton rocks, it can run down the slope to wear the hole has been drilled. Then it can exit the tank through the tubing into some sort of bucket or whatever. Would this work? So all excess water can be out of the tank.

Chris Pyle


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## geckguy (Mar 8, 2004)

I dont have anything except the hole about an inch from the bottom of the tank, and the 1/4" tubing, so when ever the water gets above 1" it just flows down the tube into the bucket.


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## jhupp (Feb 27, 2004)

I have never tried this method, maybe some day, but from what I rember reading two coats was the standard. I think you will find that a little goes a long way, as most of the coverage estimates they give are for coating bare cement. Let me know how it works out for you.


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## Scott (Feb 17, 2004)

I assume you're talking about epoxy (or some other cover for plywood) here... since the original thread is regarding another method - you may want to be specific?

s


jhupp said:


> I have never tried this method, maybe some day, but from what I rember reading two coats was the standard. I think you will find that a little goes a long way, as most of the coverage estimates they give are for coating bare cement. Let me know how it works out for you.


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## Derek Benson (Feb 19, 2004)

The epoxy pool paint


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## Ryan (Feb 18, 2004)

Would polyurathene coating work?


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## Ryan (Feb 18, 2004)

Would polyurathene coating work?


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## jhupp (Feb 27, 2004)

Depends on the poly. One of the moisture cure polys like thosed used in pond coatings or to make greatstuff would be fine. But those used to finish wood don't hold up well to water over extended periods, this goes with out saying for any of the water based polys. I have looked several times and have yet to find anything suitable in the US.


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