# Raising Tank Temps



## Darks!de (Nov 16, 2004)

I've been trying to raise the tank temps of my 4 10gl horizontals. They are currently under a 4' shoplight with 2 40w bulbs. They stay at room temp which is 68-72F. I want to raise them at least 5-10 degrees but not by raising the thermostat in the house. I'm trying 19w CF bulbs with domes directly on the glass top to see if that will raise it at all.

I can't really figure out any efficient way to do this by changing the lighting, so how about an undertank heater. If for example I got one rated for a 20 or 30gl tank and split it between two of the 10gls...anyone have any luck with the undertank heaters?

Luke


----------



## kyle1745 (Feb 15, 2004)

What is your room temp? normal shop lights should raise it a bit. Depending on what frogs are in them 68-72 is ok.


----------



## Darks!de (Nov 16, 2004)

Cobalts and azureus are in there now. They spend a bit too much time under the coco huts though and I feel as though they aren't comfortable with the current temps. The room temp is 68-72F.

Luke


----------



## Cindy Dicken (Feb 29, 2004)

*

Luke,
are you using a good digital thermometer to measure your temps inside of the tank? On our tanks, inside inside temps usually run 5 degrees or more than the room temps. Could also be a humidity issue if they are staying in the hut.

Cindy Dicken
Vivarium Concepts
http://www.vivariumconcepts.com
http://www.texasdartfrogs.org
*


----------



## Darks!de (Nov 16, 2004)

Yeah, I've gone through my share of digital thermos, I'm using one that has been very accurate. The humidity inside the tanks is actually quite high...around 80%. I do have a 1" vent on the front of the tank, perhaps the heat is escaping this way...

Luke


----------



## Cindy Dicken (Feb 29, 2004)

*

More tanks + more lights = more heat. 
Problem solved!

Cindy Dicken
Vivarium Concepts
http://www.vivariumconcepts.com
http://www.rainforesthabitats.com
http://www.texasdartfrogs.org
*


----------



## twisner (Jul 7, 2005)

ya thats a good idea just add another shoplight doesnt even have to be good bulbs just as long as it raises temps enough.
Man i wish i was as lucky as you guys that have cold problems.
I have california heat problems which are much more expensive to solve lol.


----------



## Dendro Dave (Aug 2, 2005)

could just stick one of the reptile heat mats on the back of the cage, that would warm up the glass/acrylic there, could get a big one that covers most of the back glass, and if its to hot put it on an adjustable timer and play with it till it holds an adequate temp.


----------



## Cindy Dicken (Feb 29, 2004)

*

Heat mats are not a good idea. You will cook the frogs before you know it. 

Cindy Dicken
Vivarium Concepts
http://www.vivariumconcepts.com
http://www.rainforesthabitats.com
http://www.texasdartfrogs.org
*


----------



## Cory (Jan 18, 2005)

I have several large tanks with heaters in the false bottom portion. Just get a titanium or other metal heater so you don't have to worry about breakage. I also heat my sumps to keep the temps up.


----------



## Dendro Dave (Aug 2, 2005)

cook the frogs, thru the glass and back ground? i've used them like that before, with no trouble, though it wasnt a large one...it works, but if you use a larger one you will have to monitor it while you work out the adjustments. Having it come on and off at intervals will keep the chances of it heating the tank up that fast that high almost to 0...assuming you keep an eye on it and are actively adjusting.


----------



## kyle1745 (Feb 15, 2004)

I have found the best thermostats are the infrared heat guns. Instant and accurate. I bought one a good time ago for about $30.

Now I agree that you might have a humidity issue rather than temp.

Also how long have the frogs been in the tanks? If they were just added it will take time for them to get used to it.

Another thing i have noticed is that if they are in a room where people are not around that often they can sense when someone comes around and will hide. An example would be my Azurues who are in my living room which is sort of busy, and they are always out. But most of the frogs in my basement seem shy and quickly run when anyone is around. Both areas are close to the same temps.

Just some ideas....


----------



## Darks!de (Nov 16, 2004)

Well after attaching an 8w heat pad, this is the temp gradient that it has created in a 10gl tank. Keep in mind this is for tincs, azureus and terribilis tanks. What do you guys think of this temp? The 1" vent is on the right side away from the heat pad and is half closed with tape, so I can open it more to let more heat out.



Luke


----------



## Ed Martin (Mar 25, 2004)

Luke, I'd actually keep the heat pad off of the terribilis. If I can keep mine in the low 70's all year I'm happy, and so are they. In my expierence they are much more sensitive to higher temps than other frogs. 
Ed


----------



## Frank H (Nov 3, 2005)

I have a 10 gallon size heater on the back side of my 37tall viv(for tinks).. I notice similar temp changes as your table/graph(except mine dont get so hot.... 
The heater is on the lower back side behind the glass and greatstuff background..just above the substrate level.. My max temp is 76 near the heater and low is 72 in the bottom right side farthest from heater(right now, mid day)

Luke-Cool graph by the way  

I use a Raytek minitemp guage that I use for tuning my nitro engines on Rc cars. Very acurate and recomended. 8) You can take the frogs tempurature and see if its sick :lol: 

-Frank


----------



## Ed (Sep 19, 2004)

I would suggest adding a rheostat between the plug and the heat pad and then hooking it up to a good thermostat with a remote probe. If you set the rheostat to keep the current down where the temps should be then you do not have to worry about the thermostat shorting out and cooking the frogs. This is how the snake people wire up heat pads on cages to keep from cooking the snakes or eggs by accident. 

If you want to, you can also order heat tape from some of the companies like the Bean Farm and make your own heat pads just make sure that you use a rheostat and a thermostate with a remote probe (each tank may have a different temperature due to the differences in drafts, and absorbtion of heat in the cages). 

Some comments,

Ed


----------

