# false bottom, lip of pond..



## Bergmantis (May 24, 2016)

Hello,

I am working on a false bottom that has a small pond area for the waterfall to drip into. I am wondering what is the best way to construct the top lip and edge of the pond where the substrate layer begins, so the substrate/ABG mix is retained from the edge and also looks very natural. I have been looking at a lot of similar reference images but havent found anything that looks great or something where the water level isnt touching the edge of the substrate. Any ideas?


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## Encyclia (Aug 23, 2013)

This is a really good question. I have seen a whole bunch of builds where a pond area is designed to come down to the water level of the drainage layer. I can't remember seeing one that a) looked natural, b) locked the substrate away from the water and c) made sure that the drainage layer and substrate layers didn't mix with each other. I have tried it myself, too, and was always unsatisfied with the results. I always had substrate in the water area and it just got worse and worse over time. I hope someone else can show us something that works well. Maybe use a piece of wood and actually silicone the separator layer (between drainage and substrate) to the wood so that it forms a seal?

Mark


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## Timbow (Aug 17, 2016)

I use egg crate to create the slope then cover the egg crate with fiberglass screen. Cover with silicone and add substrate of choice to the wet silicone. I usually use a mix of sand, moss and coco fiber. At the top of the slope I run a thin line of great stuff as a berm. Carve it as you like and silicone and cover with substrate. Creates a nice barrier to keep the junk out of the water.


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## wlrodman (Nov 3, 2015)

Everyone has their own ideas. But, here's what I do... 

1. Build an egg crate structure that will be above the water level.
2. Build up a Great Stuff (Black landscaping foam) boundary between the egg crate and the pond area. Carve and finish with sand/aggregate of choice
3. Place a 2" PVC pipe connector to act as a conduit between the two zones.
4. Use aquarium filter foam to act as the water passageway between the two zones.
5. Put the water pump in an accessible place under the egg crate
6. Set up the water feature so it eventually pours into the open pond.

To make the boundary plant friendly, I carve planting areas into it and fill with aquarium planting substrate and marginals like bucephelandra.

I've attached a couple of pictures to show one of my favorite builds before and after plants.


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## Judy S (Aug 29, 2010)

I can be a little slow on the uptake sometimes...so could you clarify visually what you mean by:

Place a 2" PVC pipe connector to act as a conduit between the two zones.
4. Use aquarium filter foam to act as the water passageway between the two zones.

Not clear what the 2" pipe is for...and how the filter foam is actually inserted/placed...


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## frogtodd (Dec 25, 2014)

I've been working on my first "water-feature viv" and this is what I did.
It's untested, so keep that in mind. 

I used great stuff covered with silicone and coco fiber to build a wall about 2 1/2" tall.


I gave the water feature a wide berth to account for splashing. Arranged some rocks and gravel for a smooth transition into and out of the water.


The other side was filled with ABG mix sloping up.



Then I covered the transition with leaf litter.


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## Bergmantis (May 24, 2016)

Thanks for all the responses and photos. Is the Pond and Stone Great Stuff also waterproof once it is carved? I notice there is a difference in texture once the cured surface is carved off. Also, is it waterproof if it is used to create a barrier that is submerged?


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## SuperAWE (Aug 21, 2016)

Check out this transition: http://www.dendroboard.com/forum/members-frogs-vivariums/270426-18x18x24-twisted-root-build.html#post2603082


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## Colin C (Jun 27, 2011)

Probably the easiest way to ensure your ABG does not get saturated if you are using a water feature is to forego the ABG (or any organic substrate for that matter) all together. A substrate mix of fired calcined clay gravel and hyrdoponic pumice will grow most vivarium plants as well, or better than ABG, and water passes through it much quicker and doesn't become saturated and turn to mud like organic mixes. You could use this mix in your water feature as well and just slope it up to your false bottom, using some nice stones or a piece of wood as an easy substrate retainer.


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## wlrodman (Nov 3, 2015)

The 2 inch PVC connector essentially becomes the water conduit between the visible portion of the vivarium and the "below egg crate" back part of the vivarium. I put the pump in the back part, under the egg crate, and also connect it to a tube that is also placed through the great stuff, so as to form a circulation path between the back and the front, i.e., the water in the front flows the PVC connector, to the back, and then gets pumped through the tube to the front again. This creates a closed loop where all of the water gets circulated constantly. To finish things, I cut a 3 inch diameter hole in the back glass to allow access to the pump. Since its closed off to frogs, I just tape over it with duct tape to seal it. To filter the water, I place a 2 inch diameter piece of filter foam in the PVC pipe. Every month or so, I take it out to clean it. Take note, fish or other aquatics can swim through the connector to the back if you don't plug it while you're cleaning the foam!!

Does that help?


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## wlrodman (Nov 3, 2015)

Colin C said:


> Probably the easiest way to ensure your ABG does not get saturated if you are using a water feature is to forego the ABG (or any organic substrate for that matter) all together. A substrate mix of fired calcined clay gravel and hyrdoponic pumice will grow most vivarium plants as well, or better than ABG, and water passes through it much quicker and doesn't become saturated and turn to mud like organic mixes. You could use this mix in your water feature as well and just slope it up to your false bottom, using some nice stones or a piece of wood as an easy substrate retainer.


Colin is spot on with this idea... I forego egg crate all together when all I want to do is create a marsh area in the vivarium. I install a drain on the back wall of the vivarium such that it establishes a water level of, say, one inch. Then, I fill the vivarium with Turface MVP (calcined clay substrate) and slope the marsh area down so that it is level with the drain. This creates a "swamp" that the frogs really love to just sit in...


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## Nalann (Sep 15, 2016)

Colin C said:


> Probably the easiest way to ensure your ABG does not get saturated if you are using a water feature is to forego the ABG (or any organic substrate for that matter) all together. A substrate mix of fired calcined clay gravel and hyrdoponic pumice will grow most vivarium plants as well, or better than ABG, and water passes through it much quicker and doesn't become saturated and turn to mud like organic mixes. You could use this mix in your water feature as well and just slope it up to your false bottom, using some nice stones or a piece of wood as an easy substrate retainer.


I just purchased a new vivarium today and was looking at doing something like this. Any recommendations on the clay gravel and pumice to use? Also in what ratio do you normally mix yours?


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## wlrodman (Nov 3, 2015)

I've switched to calcined clay (Turface MVP) for the substrate. I use ABG in a thin layer above that .. only where I place plants. 

Turface is used on athletic field surfaces. So, there is distribution throughout the USA. I found a distributor just a few miles from where I live, and its only about $20 a bag. 

Here's a link to their distributor web site.

Find a Distributor | Turface Athletics


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## Nalann (Sep 15, 2016)

Thank you, I'll check it out.


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