# which "great stuff" foam to use?



## gnod (Sep 12, 2011)

so i need to pick up some "great stuff" foam to spray on the back of my cork pieces to fill the empty spaces, and was wondering which type of the great stuff to get? just saw their website, and there's 5 varieties - wondering if anyone has experiences to share..

thanks!


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## Azurel (Aug 5, 2010)

I like the Pond and Stone foam as a first choice because it is black, the second I have used is Gaps and Cracks. Both work great but I prefer the Pond and stone black is much easier to hide with what ever you use to cover the background and is less obvious if spots of the background fall off as opposed to the white of the Gap and Crack.


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## gnod (Sep 12, 2011)

Azurel said:


> I like the Pond and Stone foam as a first choice because it is black, the second I have used is Gaps and Cracks. Both work great but I prefer the Pond and stone black is much easier to hide with what ever you use to cover the background and is less obvious if spots of the background fall off as opposed to the white of the Gap and Crack.


i see, but does the pond and stone expand a lot? apparently there are horror stories of the tank's glass cracking during the curing process.. 

any specific directions with applying the foam? i've read a few, wondering if you have any personal tips


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## Azurel (Aug 5, 2010)

It can expand a lot if you add a lot to start, I just add a small layer and build up as it cures. I have had no issues with it exanding and cracking glass or anything although I have heard that too. I haven't noticed if the P&D expands more then the G&C foam and have used both on the same builds. The safest thing to do though is go slow and don't add to much to start and once you build it up the last layer is the one you make how you want the background to look which in most cases you will be carving anyway to get the look you want...The Door and Window does not expand as much accoring to the site and the can but I have never used it. Make sure you where gloves cause it is a pain in the a to get off......


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## gnod (Sep 12, 2011)

Azurel said:


> It can expand a lot if you add a lot to start, I just add a small layer and build up as it cures. I have had no issues with it exanding and cracking glass or anything although I have heard that too. I haven't noticed if the P&D expands more then the G&C foam and have used both on the same builds. The safest thing to do though is go slow and don't add to much to start and once you build it up the last layer is the one you make how you want the background to look which in most cases you will be carving anyway to get the look you want...The Door and Window does not expand as much accoring to the site and the can but I have never used it. Make sure you where gloves cause it is a pain in the a to get off......


great, sounds good to me! thanks


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## phender (Jan 9, 2009)

FWIW, the red can and the blue can expand about the same, but the red can dries hard (you can still poke things in it though) and the blue can dries flexible. I find I can shape the dry blue can GS with my fingers by pinching and tearing. The red can GS you need a knife and/or file. The red can GS can be carved and shaped more precisely, the blue can is easier to deal with if you don't need precise shapes or textures.
At least that is my experience.


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## soldier (Sep 7, 2011)

I stopped using the red can because it likes to shrink and come off the glass! I switched to the blue can which has worked great it can also be carved pretty easily it doesnt expand as much as the red in my experiance but sticks alot better and doesnt shrink randomly.


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## gnod (Sep 12, 2011)

something that i considered before, but came up again - is GS safe is water touches it regularly? even though i'm using it as a filler for the back parts of my corks, i was still hoping that it wouldn't deteriorate over time if for some reason the foam(s) is in constant contact with water/humidity.. 

thanks everybody!


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## gnod (Sep 12, 2011)

something that i considered before, but came up again - is GS safe is water touches it regularly? even though i'm using it as a filler for the back parts of my corks, i was still hoping that it wouldn't deteriorate over time if for some reason the foam(s) is in constant contact with water/humidity.. 

thanks everybody!


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## gnod (Sep 12, 2011)

also, i've seen some people suggest using epoxy to coat the foams to prevent deteriorating.. etc... any experiences?


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## B-NICE (Jul 15, 2011)

I used the red, black, and pond and stone. I havent had any problems, with either, except the pond and stone came off the glass a little. I'm going to try the blue can for the back and pond & stone for the sides because I'm not going to cover it up. It looks like rock/stone. I heard epoxy dries really quick.


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## gnod (Sep 12, 2011)

any issues with water parameter changes? ^


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## B-NICE (Jul 15, 2011)

What size is your tank and is this your 1st build?


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## gnod (Sep 12, 2011)

it's a 10 gallon, first experience with great stuff.
it wasn't terrible, i already sprayed great stuff to the rear of my cork fixtures so i can cut flat and attach to glass using silicone - my only concern was IF the foam, is in constant contact with water, if that'll adversely affect any parameters within the tank.


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## B-NICE (Jul 15, 2011)

I can't really answer that question, thats a idk for me. I would'nt do a water feature on my 1st build nor on a 10. I know the pond and stone is fish safe. I think you should get some more builds under your belt b4 making a water feature and a 20G tank and better. I did a water feature and had some issues. Heres my 1st viv a 10G it had a water feature until it was kicked over. I have a plant in the center, I have to update that pic. The backwall is GS (red can) with brown GE2 silicone covered with eco earth. The side walls are GS Pond & Stone. I would just place the would on the glass and spray the GS around it. That method has worked for me.


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## gnod (Sep 12, 2011)

it was kicked over?! how?? 

i'm not too concerned about the water fixture.. it's going to be maybe 1/4 to a 1/3 full and probably won't be touching the corks directly on the bottom.


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## B-NICE (Jul 15, 2011)

My sister kicked over during an argument smfh!


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## parkanz2 (Sep 25, 2008)

I'm pretty sure (though I have no concrete proof) that GS doesn't leach anything into water once it's cured. Water actually helps with the curing process for polyurethane based adhesives. A lot of people here have used GS for creating the ponds and water features in their larger vivs with no ill effects.

I would use it personally, but if you want more information I would try calling the manufacturer.


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## Jerryo (Sep 27, 2011)

I agree. I just used black Pond foam on mind see the pics on my forum

http://www.dendroboard.com/forum/pa...xe-sliding-door-habitat-drain-hole-setup.html


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## gnod (Sep 12, 2011)

parkanz2 said:


> I'm pretty sure (though I have no concrete proof) that GS doesn't leach anything into water once it's cured. Water actually helps with the curing process for polyurethane based adhesives. A lot of people here have used GS for creating the ponds and water features in their larger vivs with no ill effects.
> 
> I would use it personally, but if you want more information I would try calling the manufacturer.


likewise, i don't have any concrete proof but just wanted some feedback, which you've given - thanks! 

i did spray some water right after i foamed up my cork fixtures as one poster suggested and it DEFINITELY helped alleviate the smell/initial hardening process. i think i'll be shaping and attaching it tonight

one other question, slightly off topic... im planning on also 'filling' the gaps between my cork fixtures after i silicone the main pieces so that my crabs won't have access to the back and i've seen some variations on coloring/sticking gravel or other substrate to it.. anyone have some easy suggestions? 

i was thinking of using some silicone to stick some small gravel all over the yellow exposed area but considering that silicone doesn't 'spread' well.. it might pose some issues..

thanks everybody!


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## B-NICE (Jul 15, 2011)

I think you should re silcone and substrate the areas you have missed.


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## BethInAK (Jul 12, 2011)

you could silicone, or gorilla glue or use titebond III and add substrate or sphagnum moss or sand or gravel.


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## gnod (Sep 12, 2011)

yea but, silicone's not that easy to spread.. esp in tight spaces? can i dilute is slightly with water?


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## BethInAK (Jul 12, 2011)

silicone isn't water soluble. You can apparently add toluene, but the stuff is hazardous.


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## parkanz2 (Sep 25, 2008)

I would get a latex glove and smear it around with a finger.


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