# Higher light plants



## iljjlm (Mar 5, 2006)

I am looking for some plants that will do well with higher light levels. Preferable something that can be mounted. Any ideas would be great. Also if know of any links to web sites for this kind of information where I can search would be good also. Thanks
Dave


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## earthfrog (May 18, 2008)

Variegated gesneriad---green and white; some solid green-leaved bromeliads and some jewel orchids---how powerful are we talking here----18,000K?


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## phender (Jan 9, 2009)

earthfrog said:


> Variegated gesneriad---green and white; some solid green-leaved bromeliads and some jewel orchids---how powerful are we talking here----18,000K?


The kelvin rating has nothing to do with light intensity. Kelvin measures the color of the bulb. 20000K is very blue. 5500K-6500K is the color of sunlight. 3000K looks a little red. Its the wattage of the bulbs that measures the power.

It would help people to know how many bulbs you have, what wattage and how far the plants will be from the light.


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## Frogtofall (Feb 16, 2006)

phender said:


> The kelvin rating has nothing to do with light intensity. Kelvin measures the color of the bulb. 20000K is very blue. 5500K-6500K is the color of sunlight. 3000K looks a little red. Its the wattage of the bulbs that measures the power.
> 
> It would help people to know how many bulbs you have, what wattage and how far the plants will be from the light.


Aaaaaactually.... 

The wattage only tells how much power the bulb consumes but not necessarily the intensity of light that the bulb produces. The info we want is either the lumens or a foot candle measurement from various distances from the bulb surface. Some manufacturers put the lumens on the packaging so if you look hard enough, it may say.

I remember the old twisty compacts that Lowes used to carry (the 26w ones) were rated at 1600 lumens each I think. Thats pretty good.

As far as high light plants, bromeliads (Neos, Aechmeas, Bilbergias and the like), many epiphytic orchids, many epiphytic plants in general. There are tons. Every plant family suitable for terrarium use will have something that you can use. Your best bet is to start finding things you like and then work your way down.

Good luck.


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## phender (Jan 9, 2009)

Frogtofall said:


> Aaaaaactually....
> 
> The wattage only tells how much power the bulb consumes but not necessarily the intensity of light that the bulb produces. The info we want is either the lumens or a foot candle measurement from various distances from the bulb surface. Some manufacturers put the lumens on the packaging so if you look hard enough, it may say......


You are right. I am used to dealing with reef lighting which has much fewer choices than vivarium lighting. For reefs, if you know the type of light and the wattage you are usually OK (lumens aren't always listed). I forget that there are so many more options for lighting vivariums.


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## kakemono (Jan 14, 2009)

I am also very interested in this post. I have the upper portion of my tank still pretty bare and stuff tends to die out with the higher heat and lower water intake. I have a humidifier run, but the heat keeps most of the mist low in my tank. 

My area is about 5-12 inches from the light. (40gallon tall)


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## earthfrog (May 18, 2008)

phender said:


> The kelvin rating has nothing to do with light intensity. Kelvin measures the color of the bulb. 20000K is very blue. 5500K-6500K is the color of sunlight. 3000K looks a little red. Its the wattage of the bulbs that measures the power.
> 
> It would help people to know how many bulbs you have, what wattage and how far the plants will be from the light.


Thanks, sorry I didn't clarify. Sometimes words escape me...too fast. 
I currently use an 18,000 K bulb, which really helps the plants grow faster, but it scorches some of my bromeliads nearest to the top of the viv. I think it would help them if I didn't mist while it was on. Otherwise, it's been working great for me.


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## iljjlm (Mar 5, 2006)

Ok here is a little more info. The tank if 4ft tall. The back wall will be a Epiweb dripwall starting at the top going down 18 inches. in the center there will be branches from the bottom going to the top. The lighting system as of now will be 1 250w MH, 22000 lumens 4200K temp with a CRI of 65. And 1 HPS 150w, 16000lumens 2000k, CRI 22. The MH will be for plant growth and the HPS for flowering. The ballasts will be placed remotely and the bulbs will have a fan cooling them. The bulbs will be mounted approximately 6in above the top of the glass. According to some calculations/formulas I have found on a different site How to Calculate your desired light levels - Orchid Board -  the Foot candles should be about.

250w MH (20,000 lumens)
Feet Foot Candles
0.5 ----- 25,466
1 ----- 6,366
1.5 ----- 2,830
2 ----- 1,592
2.5 ----- 1,019
3 ----- 707
3.5 ----- 520
4 ----- 398

150w MH (12,000 lumens)
Feet Foot Candles
0.5 ----- 15,279
1 ----- 3,820
1.5 ----- 1,698
2 ----- 955
2.5 ----- 611
3 ----- 424
3.5 ----- 312
4 ----- 239

I will have orchids, broms, ferns. what I am looking for are some plants that can take high light level to provide some shade for some plants underneath. Hope this help. Thanks for all the replies.

Dave


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## RarePlantBroker (Aug 3, 2008)

Dave,

With that kind of light you should try some Cattleyas or Cattleya hybrids. There are some smaller size species Cattleyas, and many of the Brassovola x Cattleya hybrids and Epidendrum x Cattleya hybrids do well in very bright light, they are very stiff-leafed and hold up well to the higher heat and lower humidity near the lights. Just make sure they are watered frequently. 

You could also do some Tillandsias in that light, and they would appreciate being a little drier.

You might also look for Catopsis (bromeliad genus). They naturally grow at the tips of tree branches in full sun. Most species have a big enough tank for thumbnails, and quite a few have fragrant blooms.


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## iljjlm (Mar 5, 2006)

Thanks Alasdair, I have a Cattleya lueddemaniana that is going to go in there (nice large purple fragrant flower). I didn't think about the Tillandsias, will get some of those.

Dave


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## Jason DeSantis (Feb 2, 2006)

kakemono said:


> I am also very interested in this post. I have the upper portion of my tank still pretty bare and stuff tends to die out with the higher heat and lower water intake. I have a humidifier run, but the heat keeps most of the mist low in my tank.
> 
> My area is about 5-12 inches from the light. (40gallon tall)


With this kind of space and high light low water you may want to look into some tillandsias. The generally do well with higher light and little to no water. Usually a slight misting once a week and the humidity will be fine for most.
Jason


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## hpglow (Jun 8, 2009)

Lumens are a measure of visible light. (IIRC 10 foot candles = 1 lumen)

PAR or photo-synthetically available radiation is a measure useful to plants. PAR is measured with a quantum meeter.

K or Kelvin is a measure of the color temp. of light. It is specifically the color of which a black body theoretically radiates when heated to a given temp. That temp is measured in degrees above absolute zero.

Watts are a measure of power usage by the lamp and only should be compared to the same type of lamp because the efficiency of lighting sources varies.


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