# Clorox



## Fil2010 (Oct 12, 2020)

Is the Clorox original concentrated bleach okay to use to sanitize plants? Clorox sells many different types of bleach so I though I ask here before I go ahead with this. Thx


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## JasonE (Feb 7, 2011)

First, save some money and buy the generic instead of Chlorox brand. All you need to make sure of is that it's not scented or splash proof.


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## Socratic Monologue (Apr 7, 2018)

Fil2010 said:


> Is the Clorox original concentrated bleach okay to use to sanitize plants? Clorox sells many different types of bleach so I though I ask here before I go ahead with this. Thx


Google isn't finding "Clorox original concentrated bleach" but it does find "Clorox Regular Concentrated Bleach". "Clorox Regular Concentrated Bleach" is acceptable, though remember to do the math on dilution rate, since most recommendations assume you're using bleach that contains 5% chlorine.

Yes, Chlorox makes way too many kinds of bleach, and it makes most uses of bleach a lot more dangerous since they don't really explain what these products are.


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## John J M (Jul 30, 2021)

I would definitely stay away from bleach on plants, and definitely not at full strength. What are you trying to sanitize the plants from and what kind of plants? Potassium permanginate is used successfully on aquatic and marginal plants and is an extremely wide-spectrum oxidizing agent. But it don't recall the concentration or duration of the soak and the plants need to be totally submerged and bare root because and organic matter will weaken the solution, but it is effective against snails and their eggs. But a lot depends on what you're concerned about as well as the type of plants.


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## Harpspiel (Jan 18, 2015)

John J M said:


> I would definitely stay away from bleach on plants, and definitely not at full strength. What are you trying to sanitize the plants from and what kind of plants? Potassium permanginate is used successfully on aquatic and marginal plants and is an extremely wide-spectrum oxidizing agent. But it don't recall the concentration or duration of the soak and the plants need to be totally submerged and bare root because and organic matter will weaken the solution, but it is effective against snails and their eggs. But a lot depends on what you're concerned about as well as the type of plants.


A diluted bleach soak is a very common treatment for plants before they go into a vivarium, and most types of plants will do just fine. It can kill particularly delicate orchids (although some people have success using it on orchids) and is likely to kill mosses or, I believe, other vascularly simplistic plants.

I grow a lot of very delicate plants, like filmy ferns, and I do not keep frogs and don't have to worry about chytrid, so I don't personally bleach soak anything - although the day may come. But it is the most effective way to eliminate anything that could be harmful to frogs, including (I believe) chytrid and the eggs of various organisms.


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## JasonE (Feb 7, 2011)

John J M said:


> I would definitely stay away from bleach on plants, and definitely not at full strength. What are you trying to sanitize the plants from and what kind of plants? Potassium permanginate is used successfully on aquatic and marginal plants and is an extremely wide-spectrum oxidizing agent. But it don't recall the concentration or duration of the soak and the plants need to be totally submerged and bare root because and organic matter will weaken the solution, but it is effective against snails and their eggs. But a lot depends on what you're concerned about as well as the type of plants.


Dipping your plants (most plants) in a 5% bleach solution is not only recommended, it's best practice. If you get plants from other froggers, there's a good chance they could contain pathogens or pests. Right now I have flatworms because I didn't treat a bromeliad I added to the tank late. And when I was in the hobby before one of my pumilio tanks was overrun with snails. You should always treat your plants unless they can't handle it, like the ones' @Harpspiel mentioned.


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## John J M (Jul 30, 2021)

Then do you recommend using either ClorAm-X or other dechlorinating agent, I believe sodium thiosulfate is another, prior to introducing the plants to the vivarium?


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## John J M (Jul 30, 2021)

JasonE said:


> Dipping your plants (most plants) in a 5% bleach solution is not only recommended, it's best practice. If you get plants from other froggers, there's a good chance they could contain pathogens or pests. Right now I have flatworms because I didn't treat a bromeliad I added to the tank late. And when I was in the hobby before one of my pumilio tanks was overrun with snails. You should always treat your plants unless they can't handle it, like the ones' @Harpspiel mentioned.


Question for you Jason. Are flatworms parasites on frogs? 

I do know that potassium permanginate is specifically used to kill flukes which I believe are a type of flatworm. While both sodium hypochlorite and permanganate are both oxidizing agents, permanganate is less damaging to plant tissue and can be safely used on even sensitive plants. But it requires a longer contact time which also makes it more forgiving and can be neutralized with peroxide.


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## Socratic Monologue (Apr 7, 2018)

I do not believe that KMnO4 is a listed disinfectant against chytrid or ranavirus. I haven't confirmed that, but since bleach is, it is only an academic point.

Bleach is, and has been for years, standard procedure for prepping plants for introduction to a frog viv and is harmful to plants only very, very infrequently. A dechlorinator can be used if plants are going to be immediately introduced to a viv containing animals, but otherwise can be allowed to evaporate over the course of days.


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## JasonE (Feb 7, 2011)

John J M said:


> Question for you Jason. Are flatworms parasites on frogs?
> 
> I do know that potassium permanginate is specifically used to kill flukes which I believe are a type of flatworm. While both sodium hypochlorite and permanganate are both oxidizing agents, permanganate is less damaging to plant tissue and can be safely used on even sensitive plants. But it requires a longer contact time which also makes it more forgiving and can be neutralized with peroxide.


No. They're parasites on flies and springtails. I have no springtail population in that tank and I always add extra flies to make sure the frogs get plenty before the flatworms take them out overnight. 

Unfortunately my plants are in the tank so treating isn't an option and there's no proven/safe way to kill a flatworm infestation. I go in at night and kill any I find crawling around, but that won't ever kill them all. I have definitely put a dent in their population. I went from killing 10-20 a night to 5-7 a night.


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## John J M (Jul 30, 2021)

Praziquantel is very effective at control and killing flatworms but is relatively safe for most higher animals. I'm not sure how to best apply it in a vivarium, perhaps by spray at night. I have a very thorough PDF veterinary paper file on line from University of Iowa on praziquantel but I'm not sure how to place a PDF link here. But you should be able to Google it easily. It's used frequently in fish, cats and dogs as well as many of animals, both orally or as a bath. Hope that helps you.``


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## Ian44 (Sep 26, 2021)

Pest will vary by location but I am a professional horticulturist and use tropical plants in a sterile museum and I feel like I have an insight into this subject.

Soil - remove the soil from your plants prior to planting them. I frequently encounter issues at this point, snails, scale, osmocote. Most major greenhouses have to use severe pesticides, and they can build up in the soil. 

Quarantine - I know its a bit of a trope in aquarium groups, but with plants particularly, its far easier to keep them separate and happy and spot issues that show up. Better to have a little patience than to remove a scale or bush snail infestation later.

The bleach thing is a little scary and a poor horticultural practice, though I acknowledge the occasional need for it . 5% seems fine but especially with bromeliads, the cups are where they absorb most of their water and nutrients. I recommend dumping the cups and letting them dry for a day or two then flushing them 3xs with RO. Their role in nature is to retain and host many different forms of life, the chances that parasites are present is low unless you get them from another keeper as was mentioned above and completely sanitizing them could theoretically negate some of the pros of using them and negatively affect their growth.

I'm new to darts but not with terrariums or animal husbandry, and IMHO, the issues come from added animals. I hope I'm not coming off as arrogant. This is a very interesting thread and wanted to add my 2 cents.


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## Socratic Monologue (Apr 7, 2018)

It is good to have folks with a different background add info, @Ian44 .  You're right about the added animals complicating the situation.

Predatory flatworms are not likely to be noticed in a plant-only quarantine, as they're typically out when hunting -- so you'd have to add FFs to the QT, and even then that's not a guarantee you'll see them if they're present. In my only experience with them, they took many months to make their presence apparent. These critters aren't likely even on the radar of plant-only keepers, since they're predators on microfauna. It is a no-brainer to bleach plants to keep them out, as it is essentially free (bleach is cheap), requires no equipment aside from an old yogurt container, and takes literally ten minutes.

The bleach procedure is a response to plant pests, yes, but also frog pathogens that have a limited set of known disinfecting agents, and are collection-devastators. When weighing the small risk to a plant vs the possibility of losing hundreds of frogs, many of which can no longer be obtained from the wild, the plants lose every single time. I don't see bleaching as an occasional need -- it is required for every single plant that enters a frog viv. I bleach plants (and hardscape materials) when transferring plants between my own vivs except in those vivs that house frogs that were together at some point in their lives (parents/offspring). The risk of pathogen transfer -- of known pathogens and those not yet discovered -- is simply too great. 

I don't know about frog keepers, but I know of a couple cases of major breeders of other herps that lost their entire collection of hundreds of animals worth tens of thousands of dollars -- their business -- through failure to adequately prevent pathogen transfer between animals (usually because they didn't know a pathogen was present). One case of a collection loss about ten years ago was from serpentovirus (snake nidovirus) that was unknown at the time -- the first paper was published about three years after the collection loss, after transfer of the virus from the possible patient zero to hers and to many other collections.

I assume in a discussion of rare and valuable plants if a frog were a possible disease vector in a plant collection, one reasonable response would be to eliminate the frog through any means necessary. Different goals, different priorities.


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## Ian44 (Sep 26, 2021)

Socratic Monologue said:


> It is good to have folks with a different background add info, @Ian44 .  You're right about the added animals complicating the situation.
> 
> Predatory flatworms are not likely to be noticed in a plant-only quarantine, as they're typically out when hunting -- so you'd have to add FFs to the QT, and even then that's not a guarantee you'll see them if they're present. In my only experience with them, they took many months to make their presence apparent. These critters aren't likely even on the radar of plant-only keepers, since they're predators on microfauna. It is a no-brainer to bleach plants to keep them out, as it is essentially free (bleach is cheap), requires no equipment aside from an old yogurt container, and takes literally ten minutes.
> 
> ...


Great response! It really is perspective. I understand why you would do it 100%. I also agree the frogs are the problem here. 😂 Are the plants an accessory to the frogs or the other way around. I would do well to keep that perspective in mind as I set out!


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## fishingguy12345 (Apr 7, 2019)

Socratic Monologue said:


> I bleach plants (and hardscape materials) when transferring plants between my own vivs except in those vivs that house frogs that were together at some point in their lives (parents/offspring). The risk of pathogen transfer -- of known pathogens and those not yet discovered -- is simply too great.


I almost never reuse hardscape materials for this exact reason. Once it's been in a tank with frogs it doesn't go into another tank, period. Same goes for plants unless they are getting fully bleach dipped as if they were coming from a different person's collection.


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## John J M (Jul 30, 2021)

I still would recommend that those with an open mind and willing to try something that's a little less quickly destructive to plant tissue, may want to look into potassium permanganate as a hypochlorite alternative. It's readily available at most hardware stores for home water purification, iron removal. And the soaking time is a couple of hours so time is a little less critical and provides an extra margin of safety for the plants, while it oxidized all organic matter the same as bleach. It completely oxidized all simple organisms long before more complex multicellular animals. From the perspective of mode of action it's identical to bleach but the typical concentration dissolved in water usually requires a longer soaking time so the duration of soaking is less critical so if plants are soaked a little longer there's less chance of plant tissue damage and more sensitive plants can usually be treated with injury. If you're interested in this alternative here's a link on dosage Potassium permanganate - The Free Freshwater and Saltwater Aquarium Encyclopedia Anyone Can Edit - The Aquarium Wiki

Or better yet.


https://www.koinet.net/j/index.php/articles/ornamental-fish/94-potassium-permanganate



As an interesting side note it's also used to degrade unwanted or toxic organic soil chemicals by addition to contaminated soil including unwanted insecticides and pesticides.


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## Socratic Monologue (Apr 7, 2018)

Looks like KmnO4 kills B.d. and B.sal. at 1% for 10 min or 2% for 5 min.









Efficacy of chemical disinfectants for the containment of the salamander chytrid fungus Batrachochytrium salamandrivorans


The recently emerged chytrid fungus Batrachochytrium salamandrivorans (Bsal) causes European salamander declines. Proper hygiene protocols including disinfection procedures are crucial to prevent disease transmission. Here, the efficacy of chemical disinfectants in killing Bsal was evaluated. At...




journals.plos.org





Looks like KMnO4 does *not *kill ranavirus at either 2% or 5% for 60min.





__





Europe PMC


Europe PMC is an archive of life sciences journal literature.




europepmc.org





According to those sources, bleach used as is typical (as I described above, but also for much shorter durations and concentrations) does eliminate both pathogens.


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## John J M (Jul 30, 2021)

Well that being the case, a 2% or 5% solution of permanganate is much too concentrated to be safely used for higher animals and perhaps even plants. I must say that it surprised me but if the target organism is Ranavirus, permanganate would not be the agent of choice. But for flatworms it would be a much safer agent within a vivarium as it would not produce toxic fumes which would injure dart frogs within. For these reasons, that's why I asked about the target organism and circumstance. Thanks for the information SM. That was helpful.


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## Socratic Monologue (Apr 7, 2018)

We're not talking about using *any *disinfectant inside an inhabited viv. That's a no-go, 100%. And _that's_ why bleaching plants (and not using materials that cannot be disinfected such as moss) before introduction is so important, regardless of theoretical or even actual and noticable damage to plants -- we only get one chance.


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## John J M (Jul 30, 2021)

I believe that's what a possible solution to JasonE's flatworm problem and means of control them was being brainstormed. At least that's what I was trying to explore with him here. I was trying to offer him some means of control with spot permanganate use or else possible eradication with praziquantel.


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## JasonE (Feb 7, 2011)

Socratic Monologue said:


> Predatory flatworms are not likely to be noticed in a plant-only quarantine, as they're typically out when hunting -- so you'd have to add FFs to the QT, and even then that's not a guarantee you'll see them if they're present. In my only experience with them, they took many months to make their presence apparent. These critters aren't likely even on the radar of plant-only keepers, since they're predators on microfauna. It is a no-brainer to bleach plants to keep them out, as it is essentially free (bleach is cheap), requires no equipment aside from an old yogurt container, and takes literally ten minutes.


This. I treated every plant in my vivarium. Got a brom order a little later. For whatever reason, I didn't think I needed to treat it. I flushed it with water and put it in there. 2-3 months later I started seeing flatworms on the glass. I checked under my leaf litter and every springtail was gone. For months now I've been going in multiple times a night and killing them. I'm at the point now where I only find a couple a night and I still have flies in the tank the next morning. I'm hoping if I keep this up I can have a springtail population again. But I don't have much hope. 

Treat your plants with something. You don't want something in there that can decimate your microfauna.


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## fishingguy12345 (Apr 7, 2019)

JasonE said:


> You don't want something in there that can decimate your microfauna


Except for the dart frogs.


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## JasonE (Feb 7, 2011)

fishingguy12345 said:


> Except for the dart frogs.


😂 😂 Yes


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## JasonE (Feb 7, 2011)

John J M said:


> I believe that's what a possible solution to JasonE's flatworm problem and means of control them was being brainstormed. At least that's what I was trying to explore with him here. I was trying to offer him some means of control with spot permanganate use or else possible eradication with praziquantel.


If there was something that predated on flatworms I might be comfortable adding them to the viv. But no poisons or anything of the sort with an inhabited tank. But as far I know, nothing eats them besides the frogs, and they work different shifts so to speak.


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## John J M (Jul 30, 2021)

JasonE said:


> If there was something that predated on flatworms I might be comfortable adding them to the viv. But no poisons or anything of the sort with an inhabited tank. But as far I know, nothing eats them besides the frogs, and they work different shifts so to speak.


Unfortunately, I don't know of any biological control for flatworms, but I sure wish that I did. Between the permanganate and Prazi, I think my choice would be Prazi. Look up the effective concentration and then mist it through the vivarium. While I've never used it on frogs, only fish and cats, it is extremely safe with both, but please do your research and see if there are any higher vertebrates that its ever been found to have adverse effects on (there are none to my knowledge). Even if it accidently gets onto a frog, it should be safe. The permanganate, while probably safe for the frogs, I'd be concerned about the possibility of causing corneal opacities, and since frogs hunt by sight, even if temporary, could be a problem. But the best results would be via tearing down the viv, removing your frogs to a temporary holding tank, and then flooding/soaking everything within in a strong solution of Prazi for the recommended contact time. That should 100% eradicate the flatworms. Bulk Prazi can be purchased through pond stores because it's used for koi and goldfish for flukes. The ones used for cats and dogs are pretty expensive and are much smaller quantities. IDK it the flatworms can hitch hike on frogs skins, but if so, than a Prazi misting/bath should take care of that as well. But I'm sure that you can probably see if they are on the frogs with a magnifying glass. I think that if you were to try to treat the viv with either with everything together, that the best you could expect is control and not total eradication. Good luck Jason, hope it works for you, and let us know how you fair so others can learn from your experience.

Here's a link for use of Prazi in frogs. Look under trematodes https://www.dvm360.com/view/common-parasitic-diseases-reptiles-and-amphibians-proceedings


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## John J M (Jul 30, 2021)

Jason, I just thought of something. If you were to remove the frogs and let the viv go for perhaps 6 to 8 weeks the predatory flatworms should exhaust their food supply and perish. Or you could flood the tank with CO2 which you can easily and cheaply produce by combining sodium bicarbonate in white vinegar. Seal the viv good. CO2 is heavier than air.


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## JasonE (Feb 7, 2011)

I think CO2 has proven to be ineffective against flatworms. I could be wrong. But either way, I don't have anything large enough and appropriate to house 10 adult frogs for an extended period of time.


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## John J M (Jul 30, 2021)

Depending on your vivarium after your frogs are out you can use masking tape to seal all openings and place a large container of white vinegar over the top opening. Add baking soda in large amounts to the vinegar and it should foam like crazy. Let the gas fall into the vivarium completely filling it. You can use a candle to test the level of the CO2 gas which should be up to the very top. No need to cover the top as long as there's no air movement but you can if you want. Leave it for a day or 2 maybe, it shouldn't harm the plants short term. Don't use a light or the plants will make O2. I know plants need O2 for dark cycle so maybe 8 hours. See if you can find safety of plants in pure CO2 in dark cycle.if you want to be absolutely sure, combine with Praziquantel.


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## John J M (Jul 30, 2021)

JasonE said:


> I think CO2 has proven to be ineffective against flatworms. I could be wrong. But either way, I don't have anything large enough and appropriate to house 10 adult frogs for an extended period of time.


Well that's a shame. Can't see why they should be able to survive no oxygen. But I don't know for sure. If you can't relocate frogs for any length of time that only leaves Praziquantel. And perhaps spot treatments with permanganate or removing what you can for permanganate treatments. You can't even starve the buggers into elimination with that many frogs to feed. Idk, I'm out of ideas with those constraints. Sorry.


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## JasonE (Feb 7, 2011)

John J M said:


> Well that's a shame. Can't see why they should be able to survive no oxygen. But I don't know for sure. If you can't relocate frogs for any length of time that only leaves Praziquantel. And perhaps spot treatments with permanganate or removing what you can for permanganate treatments. You can even starve the buggers into elimination with that many frogs to feed. Idk, I'm out of ideas with those constraints. Sorry.


We have several pests that are resistant to CO2 bombs. Either because they can protect themselves through a type of hibernation or because the eggs/larva aren't effected.


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## John J M (Jul 30, 2021)

Well Jason, your misfortune taught me a valuable lesson. I've been taking chances with my plants without treating them prior to planting in vivariums although most if not all have been quarantined for a month or more prior to planting and all leaf litter I boil for 20 minutes. But now that I've heard your problem I'm going to beef up my biosecurity.


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## JasonE (Feb 7, 2011)

John J M said:


> Well Jason, your misfortune taught me a valuable lesson. I've been taking chances with my plants without treating them prior to planting in vivariums although most if not all have been quarantined for a month or more prior to planting and all leaf litter I boil for 20 minutes. But now that I've heard your problem I'm going to beef up my biosecurity.


I'm happy someone is learning from my mistakes.


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## John J M (Jul 30, 2021)

You're absolutely right and it's important to learn from your mistakes. And even better if you can learn from someone else's.😂 But seriously Jason, I really do feel bad for you. I wish I could have helped, but I'm out of ideas. That really sucks. And it sounds like with everything considered, Praziquantel is the only viable possible solution. You really don't think that it would be worthwhile to buy a large semitransparent tote as temporary housing for you 10 adult frogs and tear down the vivarium and start over?

I learned from a rather large frog breeder near me not to use/add large isopods as part of the CUC because they take over and overrun the vivarium and the frogs can't eat the adults, so I'm stuck raising a bunch of them for the local shops but at least they're not in my vivariums.


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## Socratic Monologue (Apr 7, 2018)

John J M said:


> If you were to remove the frogs and let the viv go for perhaps 6 to 8 weeks the predatory flatworms should exhaust their food supply and perish.


Unlikely in a viv with a self-sustaining population of springtails and isopods. 

'Tear down and disinfect', or 'grin and bear it' are the two realistic options. Tear downs are undesirable for vivs with egg-feeders, as tads can be/are lost in the ruckus. Waiting until flatworm populations stabilize, and then just remembering that that viv is toxic and wash your hands after is a pretty acceptable way to go, IMO and IME.


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## JasonE (Feb 7, 2011)

John J M said:


> You really don't think that it would be worthwhile to buy a large semitransparent tote as temporary housing for you 10 adult frogs and tear down the vivarium and start over?





Socratic Monologue said:


> 'Tear down and disinfect', or 'grin and bear it' are the two realistic options. Tear downs are undesirable for vivs with egg-feeders, as tads can be/are lost in the ruckus. Waiting until flatworm populations stabilize, and then just remembering that that viv is toxic and wash your hands after is a pretty acceptable way to go, IMO and IME.


Yeah. Zero chance I'm tearing down that viv. I spent at least $1,000 on the interior of that thing. I knew this was something I was living with.

The thing that sucks is I'm moving to Costa Rica in 2 years and this is now going to be near impossible to sell. Any frogger that would want it is probably going to want to tear down and sanitize. And no one is paying a lot for that.


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## John J M (Jul 30, 2021)

*I applauded you for your honesty Jason. I think a lot of people would sell it at a great price not disclosing the reason/problem.*


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## John J M (Jul 30, 2021)

Wow, these critters can get fairly large. I read one interesting paper regarding them and apparently submerging potted plants in 34 C (~93 F)water for 5 minutes will kill most within 1 hour. One resistant species requires 43 C (~109 F) for 5 minutes. https://www.americanscientist.org/article/invasion-of-the-flatworms

No chemicals required. So thermal means alone provides good eradication for at least this pest. Unfortunately, not practical once the genie is out in the vivarium.


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## John J M (Jul 30, 2021)

Here's some more information on control:

New Guinea flatworms are not a protected species in Florida, and property owners may treat soil on their own property in natural areas and in potted plants that contain flatworms by soaking with hot water (between 109-120 degrees Fahrenheit) for five minutes. This method has been shown to kill flatworms without damaging the roots of plants. New Guinea flatworms may also be quickly and humanely killed by pouring boiling water directly onto the worm.

Commercial pesticides have been tested against other species of flatworm, and only gamma-HCH (Lindane), a broad-spectrum insecticide, provided significant chemical control. However, this insecticide is not considered to be suitable for widespread control measures for terrestrial flatworms (Justine et al., 2014; Cannon et al., 1999).

They are not necessarily harmless to frogs either as they may carry rat lungworms which can also be carried in frogs. So far I've not found if the rat lungworms can infect frogs or if they are only an intermediate host, and nothing specific on dart frogs but enough information for potential concern.



rat lungworm - Angiostrongylus cantonensis


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## JasonE (Feb 7, 2011)

John J M said:


> Wow, these critters can get fairly large. I read one interesting paper regarding them and apparently submerging potted plants in 34 C (~93 F)water for 5 minutes will kill most within 1 hour. One resistant species requires 43 C (~109 F) for 5 minutes. https://www.americanscientist.org/article/invasion-of-the-flatworms
> 
> No chemicals required. So thermal means alone provides good eradication for at least this pest. Unfortunately, not practical once the genie is out in the vivarium.


Unfortunately I have no way to heat the viv up to 110. I looked more into CO2 bombs for flatworms. People have had some success with it. It requires multiple bombings over the course of 2 weeks. The real problem is it can severely damage plants and even kill them. Particularly orchids and bromeliads. And I'm not sure I want to risk my blooming and breeding Restrepia.


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## John J M (Jul 30, 2021)

I wasn't suggesting that you heat your vivarium. I know that's impractical. Just reporting general information. 

As far as CO2 bombs go, I know a lot of people use dry ice. But that's hard to find and a little expensive. But vinegar/baking soda is cheap and easy. As far as plant damage goes, I've no experience with that and I'm glad you looked into it. I know plants respire same as us during their dark cycle so I would make sure on injury prior to use. I couldn't find anything about terrestrial flatworm sensitivity to Praziquantel. So I would assume it would work but can't say for sure.


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## John J M (Jul 30, 2021)

Oh, just to circle back around, make sure to check the concentration of sodium hypochlorite in your bleach because it does vary with source and purpose. Household bleach typically contains between 5 to 8% sodium hypochlorite. Pool liquid chlorine is usually a bit higher at between 8 to 12%, and agricultural sanitizer bleach can sometimes contain up to 20% so not all bleach is the same in concentration. Also bleach can lose a lot of its activity once opened with prolonged storage. To be certain of the concentration, read the label (most list the concentration) and use fresh previously unopened bleach. I'm sure most of you already know this but for those who may not have given it any thoughts I figured I'd just mention it.

And something I didn't realize was that even unopened bleach can lose its potency with prolonged storage TSRI - News & Views).


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## John J M (Jul 30, 2021)

For what it's worth, Praziquantel can be used on frogs. https://www.dvm360.com/view/common-parasitic-diseases-reptiles-and-amphibians-proceedings


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