# Typical Leuc tadpole mistakes



## Anapsid (May 14, 2014)

So my leucomelas have had 3 clutches of eggs since I got them in 2014. The first clutch didn't make it (I don't think they were even fertilized), and the 2nd resulted in 1 tadpole out of 4. Unfortunately it lasted only 13 days after it hatched then died. My question is, what are some typical newbie mistakes that could have cost me the other 3 eggs, or the tadpole? I made a tea from almond leaves and distilled water that I used as their water source. And I changed the water on the tadpole about every other day (drained water with a turkey baster, and then gently poured new water in). I just got a new clutch and I'd like for this one to be successful. 

Lastly the current clutch was found separated at the floor of the viv, like the frogs kicked through it. Think they'll make it?


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## alogan (Jan 7, 2013)

I would say that you are doing everything correct, and the tadpoles probably in the first couple of clutches may not be as viable since the parents are just figuring it all out. What were you feeding the tadpoles and how often? My first few leuc clutches all made it, and then I've had issues this year due to water quality and am switching to using distilled water like you were doing. I'd keep the eggs in a moist/humid location like a plastic container with a lid on it and with a moist paper towel on the bottom (using distilled water to moisten it). I also used to put some clean rocks on the bottom and add a small amount of water to the rocks and set the petri dish on top of it so that the humidity would stay up in the container. Hope this helps. Sorry if this info seems cluttered going on my 5th vet school final in 5 days.


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## Anapsid (May 14, 2014)

Alright so that does sound promising. So I read about using some aquatic plants to help with tadpole rearing. I have been really paranoid about just snagging some at Petco or online out of fear of chytrid contamination. Does anyone know any safe places to purchase such plants?


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## alogan (Jan 7, 2013)

NEHerp.com


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## Encyclia (Aug 23, 2013)

This doesn't match my experience with leucs. Terribilis, yes, but not leucs. Mine were very successful from the start. Maybe look at your supplementation? What are you dusting their food with? Most folks on this board, myself included, seem to mainly dust with Repashy Calcium Plus (every feeding) and supplement with Repashy Vitamin A (once every 2 weeks to a month), especially for breeding frogs. The other thing I learned the hard way is to keep your supplements in the refrigerator after opening them. There is always the possibility that one of the frogs is just not capable of breeding, too. 

One other thing - are you using a cocohut or upside down butter tin with a door cut in it? I do that with all of my large-bodied frogs and they all use it well. I put a butter lid or petri dish under it and just swap them out when they lay. I put the eggs in a container with just enough water to keep the eggs and butter lid/petri dish wet but without submerging the eggs.

Best of luck,

Mark


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## Anapsid (May 14, 2014)

So...just got home tonight from a local zoo event and just found 18 more eggs in my viv. My wife wonders...would an incubator help? to make sure that temperatures don't fluctuate? I know the temperature in our house can fluctuate from time to time.


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## Anapsid (May 14, 2014)

Encyclia said:


> This doesn't match my experience with leucs. Terribilis, yes, but not leucs. Mine were very successful from the start. Maybe look at your supplementation? What are you dusting their food with? Most folks on this board, myself included, seem to mainly dust with Repashy Calcium Plus (every feeding) and supplement with Repashy Vitamin A (once every 2 weeks to a month), especially for breeding frogs. The other thing I learned the hard way is to keep your supplements in the refrigerator after opening them. There is always the possibility that one of the frogs is just not capable of breeding, too.
> 
> One other thing - are you using a cocohut or upside down butter tin with a door cut in it? I do that with all of my large-bodied frogs and they all use it well. I put a butter lid or petri dish under it and just swap them out when they lay. I put the eggs in a container with just enough water to keep the eggs and butter lid/petri dish wet but without submerging the eggs.
> 
> ...


I over looked this post, I apologize! Anyway, I've been using Reptivite as per my vet's recommendation, and I have been dusting the food with that and Reptical every feeding. Although maybe it is a freshness issue. I didn't know about refrigerating the vitamins, and my container is maybe 3 or 4 months old now...


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## Ed (Sep 19, 2004)

alogan said:


> I would say that you are doing everything correct, and the tadpoles probably in the first couple of clutches may not be as viable since the parents are just figuring it all out.


If the eggs are fertilized then the adults have all they are going figure out in respect to fertilization, figured out, there isn't anything else for them to do. The only thing past that would be if the eggs were left in and not pulled would be for the male to water the clutch and then transport the tadpoles. 

As a result, problems with development aren't due to the behaviors of the frogs. It is a husbandry issue that starts with the care of the adults. As an example, if the frogs are deficient in vitamin A, then they are going to lay eggs that are deficient which in turn impacts development and survivial of not just the egg but the tadpole and metamorph because critical developmental issues (like improper leg bud formation causing spindly leg). 

So anytime someone says the tadpoles are developing properly due to the adults not getting it right is perpetuating a myth ... 

Some comments 

Ed


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## Ed (Sep 19, 2004)

Anapsid said:


> Alright so that does sound promising. So I read about using some aquatic plants to help with tadpole rearing. I have been really paranoid about just snagging some at Petco or online out of fear of chytrid contamination. Does anyone know any safe places to purchase such plants?


If your worried about the plants you have several choices. The first is to culture the plants in a 85-90 F aquarium for several weeks. Chytrid does not tolerate high temperatures well. Second you can wait at least 12 weeks for any zoospores to die off. Third you can order tissue cultures plants from a variety of sources that have never been in contact with the outside (just search tissue cultured aquarium plants). These are sealed containers that have never been exposed in any way that would enable contamination. If your worried about the exterior of the sealed tissue cultured container simply make sure it is dry. The infectious stage (zoospores) cannot withstand drying out. 

Some comments 

Ed


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