# How are you mounting the Glow and Grow LEDs?



## cml1287 (Mar 29, 2012)

I see it fits "tightly" into a 36" exo terra, and that you can use the mounting kit, but how else are you guys mounting it?


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## aspidites73 (Oct 2, 2012)

I cut out a square hole in the side of my 18" exoterra hood. Even then I still had to remove the socket mounting screws, screw in the bulb, then re-install as an assembly.


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## InvertaHerp (Mar 4, 2013)

Since it fits in the hood, I am just putting it on top of the tank. Simple


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## cml1287 (Mar 29, 2012)

InvertaHerp said:


> Since it fits in the hood, I am just putting it on top of the tank. Simple


Due to the length of the light, do you think it has the potential to damage the socket over time?


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## InvertaHerp (Mar 4, 2013)

Explain? Not very handy


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## JMims (Jul 15, 2013)

The 15w fits in the 24" exo terra hood if you pull out one of the sockets.


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## diggenem (Sep 2, 2011)

I don't own any glow and grow bulbs but I do have an idea. I have an old 18" Exo Terra hood. Basically what I did was pull out the socket furthest from the switch end, take the socket that's closest to the switch, flip it around and and screw it back in using the last set of mounting brackets for the reflector. This will give you 14" of clearance and you can fit the 15w. The original socket mounts look like they are just glued in so a heat gun should loosen them up so they can be pried out. If course I think the bulb would have to be screwed in the socket prior to re mounting it.

A bad pic but you get the idea.


Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 4


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## B-NICE (Jul 15, 2011)

Here is mine. You can get it on a rack better than a hood to me.


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## Dendro Dave (Aug 2, 2005)

diggenem said:


> I don't own any glow and grow bulbs but I do have an idea. I have an old 18" Exo Terra hood. Basically what I did was pull out the socket furthest from the switch end, take the socket that's closest to the switch, flip it around and and screw it back in using the last set of mounting brackets for the reflector. This will give you 14" of clearance and you can fit the 15w. The original socket mounts look like they are just glued in so a heat gun should loosen them up so they can be pried out. If course I think the bulb would have to be screwed in the socket prior to re mounting it.
> 
> A bad pic but you get the idea.
> 
> ...


I think this holds true for a lot of fixtures like the old perfecto or all glass brand strip lights...it's just glue or a screw that holds the sockets in place in the center or at the ends, and you can *unplug* it and maybe drill a hole or re-glue it in a different position and make a lot of fixtures out there work with these longer bulbs. That may seem like a hassle to some, but most of us build our own vivs and most anyone capable of that level of DIY should be able to pull off a socket refit/position change, or even build a fixture pretty easily with basic tools and easy to find/cheap materials. It isn't hard to find a wired socked, or make one from parts from walmart and construct a cheap/ventilated box around it out of wood, plastic, acrlyic, metal, glass even foam (if you're really careful) and have your own custom fixture. I mean look at most of the ones we buy... Like $5-10 in parts and we pay 30-100+ for em? I kinda kick myself every time I buy a black 18"in incandescent strip light... I could probably make it cheaper and pretty fast...just lazy I guess


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## xTimx (Mar 14, 2013)

i would tell you, but its a surprise lmao. i will be showing everyone when i get to it.


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## Venutus1 (Feb 13, 2010)

Yes....
These buggers are tricky to work with due to the length.

We had many design discussions on them when creating them... 

but basically for the products longevity, 

we had to go with the "long body" design.

And it does make them a bit more challenging to work with.

You see, by using the brighter (and hotter) 5630 white diodes, the whole unit needed to have more metal /aluminium (thermal mass) to dissipate the heat better.

One thing to point out is that you can use nylon Zip Ties around the body of these units if you need to do that to stabilize them due to the length.
Just as long as you do not "zip tie" right over any diodes.

They do not get hot enough to melt nylon zip ties.
So "zip tie away"--- if you need to.
(nylon zip ties melt at 428 +/-, so these are safe to use on any Jungle Dawns®.)

Again, just keeping in mind that you would* try to avoid wrapping the zip ties directly over diode(s) on the face of the unit.*

Thank you!
Todd


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## ecichlid (Dec 26, 2012)

Todd, in the pictures above, the reflectors are still in place. Wouldn't you want to remove them from the hoods?


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## Venutus1 (Feb 13, 2010)

ecichlid said:


> Todd, in the pictures above, the reflectors are still in place. Wouldn't you want to remove them from the hoods?


YES!!
Thank you--
good point.

Those were some out of inventory I pulled to use for the pictures...
so I didn't do that modification to them....

But yes, they do vent out the vent slots on the top of the Exo hood much better if the metal is removed.
It allows for better natural convection of the hot air.

Now, you do not _have to_ do it if you don't want to...

They still will be OK with the metal left in.

But by removing it, it will even help keep the VIV COOLER, because the metal also reflects the heat downward.

So, whether using the Jungle dawn® Grow and Glows, or even the regular Jungle dawn®...
It is a good thing to do.

And it is easy, the metal reflector just "pops" out after you take out a few screws.

And you could even thread a zip tie (preferably a black one) through the vent slots on the top and then around the long grow and glow unit to support it better.
That way, if you accidentally dropped the hood or something---
it would lessen the likelihood the G&G unit would snap off at the base or socket!

Cheers!
Todd

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
BTW
*More Grow and Glows will available in the USA SOON!
I know everybody has practically run out of them!*

The last large shipment met with disaster...
The box suffered a nasty impact in transit and most ALL of the 20w were "toast" when they arrived.

But the factory is whipping up a replacement shipment that will be here any day now...

So all the authorized Jungle Dawn® dealers will be replenished VERY soon with Grow and Glows!

I want to thank everyone for their patience while they make some more. 

Grow and Glows are fast becoming 'ol todd here's hottest item- EVER. 
I am so pleased everyone likes them.
LightYourReptiles.com appreciates the Dart Frog community's support. 
*Thank you!*


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## Bcs TX (Sep 13, 2008)

As opposed to zip ties I have been using Velcro, I bought it in a roll at Lowe's.
It is attached in a way that does not touch the bulb, works great and easier to install on tall racks than zip ties plus easier to move the light if needed.


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## xTimx (Mar 14, 2013)

i was gonna keep it a secret till i mounted it. but i guess i can divulge haha. Venutus and I have been talking (well one pm) lol. and the way i'll be mounting mine is with suction cups onto a mirror. since i will be using a mirror on the top of the inside canopy. i'll be epoxying the suction cups to the G&Gs. but Ven thinks with the heat and cooling down. there will be much expanding and contracting and might fail over time. there's a clip you can buy on ebay that lets you clip onto the outside of the light and then you can screw the clip onto the suction cup and mount it like that. 

cheers!  

Tim


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## Dendro Dave (Aug 2, 2005)

xTimx said:


> i was gonna keep it a secret till i mounted it. but i guess i can divulge haha. Venutus and I have been talking (well one pm) lol. and the way i'll be mounting mine is with suction cups onto a mirror. since i will be using a mirror on the top of the inside canopy. i'll be epoxying the suction cups to the G&Gs. but Ven thinks with the heat and cooling down. there will be much expanding and contracting and might fail over time. there's a clip you can buy on ebay that lets you clip onto the outside of the light and then you can screw the clip onto the suction cup and mount it like that.
> 
> cheers!
> 
> Tim


Might put a dab of silicone in your suction cups to make sure they don't break loose  (Nice idea btw)

P.S. I think a surface painted with flat white paint actually reflects more light then a typical mirror. 

Some info I stole, I forget the link...

*In order of reflecting power...* _
Foylon:
A more durable version of mylar, made of spun polyester fabric and reinforced with foil laminate. Foylon is resistant to most solutions, won't tear or fade, and can be wiped or washed clean.

A great solution for growers who are interested in long term use, and though it may be slightly more expensive than mylar, its durability will more than make up for its cost. It has the ability to reflect about 95% of the light and approximately 85% of the heat energy, so a good ventilation system should be used in conjunction with folyon.

A recommended method to attach Foylon to the walls would be using Velcro, as it makes taking it down for cleaning much easier nd reduces the risk of tearing, creasing or bending it. If this is used for your walls, making sure you get it flush with the wall with no pockets of air between it and the wall to prevent hotspots.



Mylar:
A highly reflective polyester film that comes in varying thickness, the most common being 1 and 2 mm thick. The 2mm thick mylar while not quite as durable as the foylon, is fairly rugged. The 1mm thick mylar tears fairly easily, so taking it down for cleaning is quite difficult without damaging it in the process. Both types of mylar are able to reflect approximately 92-97% reflective, giving it the potential to be more reflective than foylon, but because foylon is more easily cleaned without damaging it as well as it being harder to crease, foylon usually ends up being slightly more reflective. Important to note is that mylar reflects radiant heat energy just as well as foylon (around 85%), so proper ventilation is necessary if mylar is used in your grow room. Attaching this to walls can be done in a similar fashion as foylon, and the same caution should be used to avoid creating hotspots in your room. The 1mm thick mylar stands a fair chance of being creased or ripped in the process unfortunately, even if Velcro is used to attach to the walls.

C3 anti-detection film:
A specialized type of mylar that exhibits the same properties as the 2mm thick mylar, but in addition to reflecting approximately 92-97% of the light, it also is 90% infrared proof *(Might insulate the fixture making it hotter and decreasing bulb life)*, making your grow room all but invisible to IR scanning. This can also be attached in the same manner as foylon or mylar, and the same caution should be used to avoid creating hotspots in your room.

*Flat white paint:*_ Pretty much the best short of the above. Titanium white paint is supposed be very good but expensive (I'm assuming the stuff that probably has real titanium in it and isn't just named titanium white)

Bonus: Just so you all know the dull side of aluminum foil actually reflects more light then the shiny side, but any wrinkles really mess up reflectance. Silver (yes the actual metal) is also pretty decent, but pricey of course


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## Venutus1 (Feb 13, 2010)

I just heard from someone these Power Compact clips might work...

I am going to experiment with them as soon as I get some...
and report back.


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## boombotty (Oct 12, 2005)

Venutus1 said:


> I just heard from someone these Power Compact clips might work...
> 
> I am going to experiment with them as soon as I get some...
> and report back.




Good to know. The ones I just ordered from you are replacing some power compacts, so I'll try it out. I'll take pics when they are in.


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## xTimx (Mar 14, 2013)

Venutus1 said:


> I just heard from someone these Power Compact clips might work...
> 
> I am going to experiment with them as soon as I get some...
> and report back.


Ven. I just looked. And they dont ship to canada. So I cant get them. Unless someone buys them and can ship them to canada for me. 

cheers! 

xTimx


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## diggenem (Sep 2, 2011)

Finally worked out the kinks. This was an Exo-Terra 18" Double fixture hood. I removed one of the sockets and saved it in case i need it later. It was really easy to do with no real modification to the hood.


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## Venutus1 (Feb 13, 2010)

diggenem said:


> Finally worked out the kinks. This was an Exo-Terra 18" Double fixture hood. I removed one of the sockets and saved it in case i need it later. It was really easy to do with no real modification to the hood.


WOW!

I AM totally impressed!

Go Grow and Glow!!!


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## Venutus1 (Feb 13, 2010)

*Power Compact Clips ARE the WAY!! AWESOME!*



Venutus1 said:


> I just heard from someone these Power Compact clips might work...
> 
> I am going to experiment with them as soon as I get some...
> and report back.


*The power compact clips work PERFECT!

I will have some in stock soon....

But I got the ones I used to test here if anyone needs any sooner:

Power Compact Fluorescent PC Lamp Clips DIY 1 Pair | eBay*


Cheers!
Todd


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## cml1287 (Mar 29, 2012)

*Re: Power Compact Clips ARE the WAY!! AWESOME!*



Venutus1 said:


> The power compact clips work PERFECT!
> 
> I will have some in stock soon....
> 
> Todd


Awesome! Thanks Todd! Now to get my hands on some G&G...


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## xTimx (Mar 14, 2013)

Todd I will buy 8 off ya. If u can send to canada please. 

cheers! 

xTimx


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## Venutus1 (Feb 13, 2010)

xTimx said:


> Todd I will buy 8 off ya. If u can send to canada please.
> 
> cheers!
> 
> xTimx


I sure can... 

but I will get *spanked* by mods if I conduct business in a thread/post. 

so I send you PM.


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## Dendro Dave (Aug 2, 2005)

diggenem said:


> Finally worked out the kinks. This was an Exo-Terra 18" Double fixture hood. I removed one of the sockets and saved it in case i need it later. It was really easy to do with no real modification to the hood.


 Ya that looks great...

I don't see any reason why someone couldn't do basically the same thing but move those sockets to one side a bit and install 2 GnG bulbs in that fixture. Heck you could push that GnG socket back some, and Install a socket at each end in front of it and probably get 2 JD's in there for a 3 bulb fixture. At most you'd have to drill a few holes and be able to work a screw driver 

Then if you wanted to, you could *install a fan **to help insure long life of the bulbs...I would!!! Especially in that 3 bulb version I postulated*
Here is a nicely priced line of fans that come with speed controls, a variety of sizes and dual fan options...
AC Infinity AI-80SCX Speed Control Fan Kit for Cabinet Cooling, Single 80mm - Amazon.com


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## Venutus1 (Feb 13, 2010)

Dendro Dave said:


> Ya that looks great...
> 
> I don't see any reason why someone couldn't do basically the same thing but move those sockets to one side a bit and install 2 GnG bulbs in that fixture. Heck you could push that GnG socket back some, and Install a socket at each end in front of it and probably get 2 JD's in there for a 3 bulb fixture. At most you'd have to drill a few holes and be able to work a screw driver
> 
> ...



I totally agree Dave--

And I will throw this out there--

I have been looking for a metal fabrication company (PREFERABLY IN USA) to make LYR light fixtures.

Basically like the old aquarium fixtures that took those incandescent tubular bulbs.
You know the ones.
In lengths 12" up to 72" that fit 125 gal- 220 gal tanks.

I plan on expanding to have not only Jungle Dawns® but Ocean Dawn™ screw in LED as well, 
so I would need socket strip lights for all popular aquarium sizes, as well as vivarium sizes.

They would have the sockets spaced to fit the Grow and Glows and have a small 110v muffin (computer) fans (with dust filter!!!) in them to circulate the air.

Does anyone work for, or know of a manufacturer who does metal work out there?

I have a work shop that can install the sockets,
so I am specifically looking for just the metal housing to be made.... and then possibly powder coated if it is not cost prohibitive.

If anybody has any leads on the above---
Please let me know.

[email protected]

Thank you x 100 

Todd


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## Dendro Dave (Aug 2, 2005)

Venutus1 said:


> I totally agree Dave--
> 
> And I will throw this out there--
> 
> ...


I lost all the links I had up I was investigating Todd, due to an unexpected restart of my PC so I'm starting from scratch again 

Are you willing to do some assembly in house like installing the sockets/cords and just gettin the housing made elsewhere or do you want the whole thing plug and play ready to go to customer?


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## Venutus1 (Feb 13, 2010)

Dendro Dave said:


> I lost all the links I had up I was investigating Todd, due to an unexpected restart of my PC so I'm starting from scratch again
> 
> Are you willing to do some assembly in house like installing the sockets/cords and just gettin the housing made elsewhere or do you want the whole thing plug and play ready to go to customer?


preferably the whole thing made.


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## Dendro Dave (Aug 2, 2005)

Venutus1 said:


> preferably the whole thing made.


Rodger dodger


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