# undertank heat pads for planted tanks?



## Groundhog (Dec 17, 2006)

Does anyone, by chance use under tank heat pads on planted tanks? Not necessarily on a PDF tank; maybe a tropical lizard or hylid set up? My goal is to only warm the substrate just a bit in the winter for my aroids, cryptanthus and episcia. (E.g., + 5-10 deg, maybe mid-high 70s fahrenheit in a 68 deg room). If so:

1) How much can/do they actually heat the substrate (above room temp)?
For a 30 gallon tank, would 8W do it, or do I need 16W?

2) Are they always safe, even with a false bottom?

3) Any opinion on Zoo Med uth vs. Exo Terra "Rainforest?" (I have used the Zoo Med in the past; not bad, but they seem to only last a few years).

Opinions, guys?


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## hypostatic (Apr 25, 2011)

I use one for my 20G long azureus viv. I think I got the smallest zoo med one. I only really plug it in during the winter. I don't think it heated the tank more than 10F above room temp, maybe 7F.


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## SDRiding (Jul 31, 2012)

The water in the false bottom can cause the glass to crack when using an under tank heater. The rain forest one is supposed to be usable with water, but that's because it won't actually heat anything. I tested it out at one point, but it didn't raise the temperature at all. An aquarium heater would work better.


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## hypostatic (Apr 25, 2011)

I have a false bottom filled with LECA, and I haven't had an issue with my UTH. But also, my false bottom isn't super filled with water since I don't super mist. I have it drilled on the bottom for drainage, and I've only drained it (it had very little water anyway) once in two years.


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## Kalakole (Jun 30, 2011)

I use one but on the side of my tank with no issues.


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## aspidites73 (Oct 2, 2012)

I've only used the zoomed brand, and only then, for gestating Boids. More so, I've used heat tape (the same stuff sold up north to keep pipes from freezing) with a rheostat. In my experience, and opinion, they aren't designed to raise the ambient air temp of an enclosure. They simply provide a warm spot in the substrate that allows the animal to thermoregulate on its own. They work best through heat transfer in solids. I would imagine the false bottom would negate their effectiveness, unless it was filled with something (ie LECA). Raising the temperature (energy) of a gas (air) requires a lot of heat, and is rather inefficient. I believe a surface to surface heater, as in a heat matt/tape, would require so much heat that it would make the spot in contact with the heater too hot, and unsafe for the animal.


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## rigel10 (Jun 1, 2012)

I use this system: a frame on which to place the vivs to avoid touching a heating cable. Works well for me!


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## SeaDuck (Nov 8, 2006)

Groundhog said:


> Does anyone, by chance use under tank heat pads on planted tanks? Not necessarily on a PDF tank; maybe a tropical lizard or hylid set up? My goal is to only warm the substrate just a bit in the winter for my aroids, cryptanthus and episcia. (E.g., + 5-10 deg, maybe mid-high 70s fahrenheit in a 68 deg room). If so:
> 
> 1) How much can/do they actually heat the substrate (above room temp)?
> For a 30 gallon tank, would 8W do it, or do I need 16W?
> ...


What you are wanting to do sounds very much like how I root some Hoyas during winter. You need to look at the better quality seedling mats for greenhouse use. The better ones are micro chip controlled to turn off at 78 degrees or so. They do not attach to the tank so the cracking is not an issue. I also use one in our fruit fly cabinet so we have even production all winter. Robert


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## Groundhog (Dec 17, 2006)

Yes, indeed. In 10 gal prop tanks I have used ZooMed--they work fine, but only last a few years.

SPECS:
--Winter room temp: 68 Day, 65 Night;
--36" tank, basking lamp on left end;
--Tank sits on a baker's rack (vented bottom)--heating device will go on top of rack, below the tank;
--I want to heat the substrate only, approx 5-10d fahrenheit (Substrate on top of LECA drainage layer).

SO--a seedling heat mat will be better than an adhesive heat mat? Would 18 W be too much?



SeaDuck said:


> What you are wanting to do sounds very much like how I root some Hoyas during winter. You need to look at the better quality seedling mats for greenhouse use. The better ones are micro chip controlled to turn off at 78 degrees or so. They do not attach to the tank so the cracking is not an issue. I also use one in our fruit fly cabinet so we have even production all winter. Robert


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## SeaDuck (Nov 8, 2006)

I have had better luck with the heat mats. You will need to put something under the mat to help direct the heat upward and leave a gap between the glass and the mat. Leaving the bottom open will lessen the life of the mat. 

I add a rheostat and generally go with a higher wattage. I have several in operation that are 5-6 years old and none of the stick on ones ever made it this long. (Though now that I have said that they will all need replacing.) 

Robert


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## Rusty_Shackleford (Sep 2, 2010)

Ive used a heating cable before. I don't remember where I got it but I found it online. They've been used in planned aquariums for years. They are waterproof, flexible and can be used on a rheostat/thermostat

Sent from my HUAWEI-M931 using Tapatalk 4


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## Groundhog (Dec 17, 2006)

You do mean the _seedling_ heat mats?



SeaDuck said:


> I have had better luck with the heat mats.


So now I know it ain't just me, the adhesive mats really do not last that long... *Lemme get this straight*: 

--I should not let a "Hydrofarm" or "Viagrow" heat mat actually kiss the bottom glass?!?
--Should I use one of these, I need to insulate one side, to direct the heat up?
Like what, thin styrofoam?

This sounds like this is going to get awful expensive for the sake of 5 to 8 degrees... I may be forced to just choose between Exo Terra and R-Zilla, with the understanding that this may only last 3-4 years (and hell, I only use the blasted things in the Winter...)



> You will need to put something under the mat to help direct the heat upward and leave a gap between the glass and the mat. Leaving the bottom open will lessen the life of the mat.
> 
> I add a rheostat and generally go with a higher wattage. I have several in operation that are 5-6 years old and none of the stick on ones ever made it this long. (Though now that I have said that they will all need replacing.)
> 
> Robert


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## Groundhog (Dec 17, 2006)

Inside or outside, Jon? 



Rusty_Shackleford said:


> Ive used a heating cable before. I don't remember where I got it but I found it online. They've been used in planned aquariums for years. They are waterproof, flexible and can be used on a rheostat/thermostat
> 
> Sent from my HUAWEI-M931 using Tapatalk 4


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## Ray (May 12, 2009)

I use two Hydrofarm seedling heat mats (17W, no controller) inside of a 55-gallon tank I use for ex-flask orchid seedlings.










I just laid them on the bottom, and covered them with sphagnum moss. They warn you not to immerse them, but I simply pour my water into the tank down a sidewall when I need to, and have had no issues with cracking or overheating (they boost the temp about 10°-15°F over ambient), and they are about to start their 3rd year with no issues.


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## Rusty_Shackleford (Sep 2, 2010)

Groundhog, they are inside. They have suction cups that stick them to the bottom glass. I'll have to look it ip and see where I bought them and post a link. I think a 6' cable is 25 watts of power.

I found it, here's a link....
http://www.reptilesupply.com/product.php?products_id=2446


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## SeaDuck (Nov 8, 2006)

Groundhog said:


> You do mean the _seedling_ heat mats?
> So now I know it ain't just me, the adhesive mats really do not last that long... *Lemme get this straight*:
> 
> --I should not let a "Hydrofarm" or "Viagrow" heat mat actually kiss the bottom glass?!?
> ...


Ray is using the same ones I am inside a tank so my guess touching the glass would be just fine. I wanted some buffer between the heat mat & the glass tank as a caution. Just about anything will work under them. I used a thin sheet pan. The rack by nature has too much allows too much air to circulate under the mat. It will do a better job and likely last longer on a sold surface. 

Robert


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