# Sticky  Bromeliads - What you need to know!



## Jason DeSantis

Ok, so I have seen a lot of posts over the course of the last few months with questions and comments about bromeliads and care. I have seen a ton of wonderful advise along with a bunch on completely wrong advice. Please note I am not an "expert" but I have 5 years of growing bromeliads under my belt and I am best friends with one of the largest growers of bromeliads in the world. The below information will be for care of the genus neoregelia and not all bromeliads.




Bromeliad care: Outdoor
For outdoor growth most bromeliads will tolerate cold temps to around 32 degrees but it is best to keep them above 50 and below 90. Light is very important in keeping healthy bromeliads. A rule for most Neoregelia is to have 70% shade when growing outside. Now 
this means you can have dappled light under a tree or grow under a shade cover if grown in a shade house or in a backyard. 

It is important to keep potted bromeliads off the ground. Not only will this help with air flow it will also lessen the chances of getting nematodes in the soil.

A nice light mix of soil is important. I use a mix of 1/3 perlite, 1/3 peat moss and 1/3 small pine chips. Other orchid type mixes work great as well. Try to never use 100% peat as this will aid in the rotting process.

One thing that is never really mentioned is pot size. Pot size is very relative when it comes to rotting of the bromeliad. You want to use the rule of what the plant will finish to in size. For example mini neos will do best in 4" pots while medium should be planted in 4.5 to 5" pots, and so on and so forth. At the time of potting a good time release fertilizer works great. You can go with any off the shelf type fertilizer like osmocote or organic fertilizer. Something with a ratio of 13-13-13 will work just fine.

Watering is probably the most important part of out door growth. If you live in a humid environment like Florida you can get away with watering 1-2 times per week in the winter and not at all in the summer. If you live inn the north you will most likely need to water more often. Keep the axils filled with water and once the soil dries out it is time to water again. Water quality is also very important. If you have hard water you may want to consider getting a softener system or even an RO system. 

Pups or offsets as a rule should be cut off the mother plant at a 1/3 grown. Now with smaller neos it is best to be close to full grown. If you have a small plant like small fry for example 1/3 grown would be only 1" in size. So the larger the bromeliad the sooner you can cut the pups or offset.





Terrarium Growing:
First off, bromeliads need air flow! I can't tell you enough that just placing a bromeliad in a terrarium without some air flow will most likely rot out your brom. Since it is so humid in a terrarium, most neos will do fine being watered once a week if the axils have water in them. Do not over water them as they do need to dry out some from time to time.

Lighting is also very important. To keep up color you will want to have a light output of 6500k or higher. This will keep the colors up on the broms. I doesn't matter if you use fluorescent or led but the kelvin rating does. Wattage is not important at all and is just the rating on how much the bulb consumes in energy and not the light it omits.

Fertilizer in the terrarium is not important, with the animals running around and urinating and deficating on the plants.

Positioning of bromeliads in the terrarium is well worth noting. As stated above it does stay very humid so planting bromeliads is not the best idea. Neos will do best if grown epiphytically in your terrarium. You can mount them on a background or just place them in the little nooks. I like to mount them on driftwood or just jam them in cracks.





Shipping:
This is a very important part of the mix. Since most people do not live near a bromeliad nursery, you will most likely have to have them shipped. Shipping is very easy and safe if done right.

Plants need to dry before being shipped. As many of you may have noticed, you received a bromeliad in the mail and it has spots in the leaves. It looks like burn and most likely is. Bromeliad leaves will burn each other if wrapped tight when wet. This happens a lot in the summer. I personally wash and then dry plants for 24 hours before shipping. Dry bromeliads are good!

Once your bromeliads arrive they should be unwrapped. They look dry? This happens all the time and the best thing to do is soak them in a bucket of water for a couple hours. Drying out in shipping is very common, especially in the winter. This happens due to the lack of humidity in the winter months as well as the cold. After a day or two they will look just as good as the day they were shipped. It is also a good idea to wash all new plants with a mild 5% bleach solution. This will help kill any foreign contaminants.





Common terms:

Pups vs. Offsets: 
Most people believe the use of pup means your going to get a tiny plant, but if you buy an offset it will be larger. This is not true! The use of both terms is standard in the bromeliad industry and refers to the cutting of a brom from a mother plant. You can cut an offset of any mother plant and it can be bigger then the mother and still be considered a pup.

Axil:
This is the "cup" part of the leaf that holds the water.

Stolon:
This is the wood like base of the bromeliad which grows from the mother plant. Some neos like pauciflora have long stolons up to a foot long while others are very short and just extend far enough from the mother for the new plant to grow.

Zap:
You probably never heard of this and it is not all that common. Zap is known as an atmospheric anomaly that just happens. It looks just like burn and probably is. It is not known as of yet what causes this, but may explain burned leaves from time to time.

Scurf:
Scurf is a powder type protection on leaves of bromeliads. It is a natural occurring part of some neos but not that many. It is mostly found on other genus in the bromeliad family.
It can be washed off but if it is it will not come back.

Trichomes:
Trichomes are a hair like growth that naturally occurs is some bromeliads and all tillandsias. These hair like growths collect the moisture out of the air and aid in watering the plant. Most plants in the tillandsia family only have to be misted once a week due to the trichomes. 





Pests:

Scale:
Scale is a pest! Hands down the most feared of all the bromeliad pests. There are two basic types dealt with. White scale which is about a 1/16", tends to live on the underside of leaves and deep in the axils. These can be killed with a number of different pesticides or just rubbed off if you have just a couple. Black scale is much harder to spot and is about the size of a pen tip. They are extremely hard to remove and will do best if just treated. Both of these common types of scale feed on the plant and do minimal harm if kept under control. 

Spider Mites:
Spider mites are tiny and can be seen based off the damage they do. They will do damage that looks very close to burn on the leaves. They can be wiped off the leaf but will need to be treated as well.

Snails:
Snails are not as much of a problems as the above pests. A quick and easy way to kill them is to spray them with beer. Snails can also be treated with iron but I think the beer is less harmful and makes for a good time killing.

Mealy Bugs:
These are a pain as well. They are small white insects that get to be around 1/8" in size. They do feed on plants and are not usually a problem for bromeliads.






Non problematic insects:

Spider Eggs:
There is a bug which I was told are spider eggs that looks a lot like scale. They are about 1/8" diameter round and live all over bromeliad leaves. If you can look at them and they fall off(not literally) then this is what I am talking about. These bugs are not harmful to your bromeliads.

Algae: 
There are two types of common algae that form on bromeliads, green and white. Both can be just washed from the leaves. The white is harder to remove but still comes off with ease.

Silver eggs or algae?:
These are tiny silver/grey spots that form as small cluster, usually in the axils or undersides of leaves. Easily removed, just wipe them off.





Once again I am no expert. I hope this is a help and please do not hesitate contacting me with any questions. Also, please let me know if I left anything out.
Jason


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## Whitneyd88

> It is also a good idea to wash all new plants with a mild 5% bleach solution. This will help kill any foreign contaminants.


When you wash them with this solution, do you make a bucket up of it and dunk them in it? How long do you leave them in there? I would imagine it would be quick


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## frogparty

Great write up. Excellent to point out that damage incurred during shipping may not physically manifest itself for some time. 

Turface makes a pretty damn good outdoor bromeliad potting medium. I also use rockwool cubes and pumice. Anything free draining that promotes airflow


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## grantska

Nice job, thanks for sharing! 
A question I have is if there is any way to promote flowering and pup production in a terrarium setting?


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## frogparty

To answer your question.....no. Flowering CAN be induced with the addition of ethylene gas. But remember that all bromeliads are determinate bloomers, and that once the plant flowers, its on a downward spiral. Pupping CAN be induced by heavier fertilization( in the form of osmocote) in the root zone of your broms. HOWEVER, fertilizing broms causes an unpleasant "leggy" look to your broms.


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## Jason DeSantis

frogparty said:


> To answer your question.....no. Flowering CAN be induced with the addition of ethylene gas. But remember that all bromeliads are determinate bloomers, and that once the plant flowers, its on a downward spiral. Pupping CAN be induced by heavier fertilization( in the form of osmocote) in the root zone of your broms. HOWEVER, fertilizing broms causes an unpleasant "leggy" look to your broms.


There is actually another way Jason. You can stab the center of the plant where the flowers would be with a knife. This makes the brom "think" it has bloomed and starts the pupping process.
Jason


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## frogparty

I learned something new today!


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## Jason DeSantis

frogparty said:


> I learned something new today!



I use my cutters but a knife will do just fine.
Jason


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## frogparty

what about a sharp plant stake or ice pic?
easier to get to the center of the plant w/o cutting foliage


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## Jason DeSantis

My leaf cutters are long so its not an issue for me. But something long with a sharp end will work. Just push it down a half inch in the center and then twist a few times. That's all it takes.
Jason


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## frogparty

I might have to try this! I dont really care about the flowers, what I want is PUPS!!!!!


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## Whitneyd88

Can you please clarify on how long to wash the broms in the bleach solution?


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## mkitchen

Thanks for he write-Up. 

What are your thoughts on mounting the stolon with hot glue to driftwood?


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## frogparty

I do a soak 10 min lukewarm water, then a 10 minute soak in 10% bleach, then a water rinse off, then another 10 minutes lukewarm water soak


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## Jason DeSantis

Whitneyd88 said:


> Can you please clarify on how long to wash the broms in the bleach solution?


I would make a bucket and dip it in it a couple times and you should be good.



mkitchen said:


> Thanks for he write-Up.
> 
> What are your thoughts on mounting the stolon with hot glue to driftwood?


I wouldn't use hot glue at all in a terrarium. I use U shaped wire that I bend myself for backgrounds.
Jason


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## frogparty

I use fishing line to mount broms to driftwood


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## Jason DeSantis

frogparty said:


> I do a soak 10 min lukewarm water, then a 10 minute soak in 10% bleach, then a water rinse off, then another 10 minutes lukewarm water soak


This too is good!


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## Jason DeSantis

Or you can drill a hole in the wood and place the stolon in it.
Jason


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## ChrisK

I soak them totally submerged in a 10% bleach solution for 15 mins, most broms seem to be able to handle it, then rinse them in water a couple of times til the bleach smell is just about gone, then let them dry.

Seems like mounting them to cork bark/tubes works a lot better than anything else, the cork stays dry so rotting is WAY reduced compared to stuff like tree fern or wood.


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## GP dynamite

Excellent write up and follow up q and a by every involved.


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## Epiphile

Jason DeSantis said:


> To keep up color you will want to have a light output of 6500k or higher. This will keep the colors up on the broms. I doesn't matter if you use fluorescent or led but the kelvin rating does. Wattage is not important at all and is just the rating on how much the bulb consumes in energy and not the light it omits.


Great write up- thanks for taking the time to do this.

I agree with you that quality of light will affect colouration, but are you saying that quantity of light does not contribute to this?


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## Judy S

further clarification would be good on the lighting issue...terrific write up...


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## VenomR00

Just something to think about. After have a discussion with someone we really should also be looking at the PAR of light output as this causes better coloration.

Also I think one of the most common problems when looking at bromeliads that people don't realize is that when they obtain specimens like Blueberry Muffin or even some Fireballs the plant loses color due to lack of proper lighting. If you can't afford LED's (reason I say led's is because you can have multiple light fixtures that produce a more even flow of light color) then when you place you tubes, you should be utilizing two spectrum's of light rather then just all 6500k. This helps give plants a better chance to retain or even gain color's back.

Thank's a lot Jason, it was very well informed and thought out.


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## Jason DeSantis

VenomR00 said:


> Just something to think about. After have a discussion with someone we really should also be looking at the PAR of light output as this causes better coloration.
> 
> Also I think one of the most common problems when looking at bromeliads that people don't realize is that when they obtain specimens like Blueberry Muffin or even some Fireballs the plant loses color due to lack of proper lighting. If you can't afford LED's (reason I say led's is because you can have multiple light fixtures that produce a more even flow of light color) then when you place you tubes, you should be utilizing two spectrum's of light rather then just all 6500k. This helps give plants a better chance to retain or even gain color's back.
> 
> Thank's a lot Jason, it was very well informed and thought out.


I agree with this! 

I think there is too much emphasis put on wattage and size and not enough on output. When it comes to a standard 48" rack, a fluorescent strip with 2 T8 6500k bulbs should be adequate per shelf. Now that does not mean a second strip on the same shelf would not add color because it would help. I am a big fan of fluorescent light, its cheap, lasts long and you can light 2-3 terrariums for $20. So to answer your question, an addition of more lights will help keep the colors up, but you don't need to go out and buy $100 led setups either.
Jason


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## insaneglitchx

My broms are losing their color, and I know I need new lighting. I've been looking into LEDs or T5s, but most of the units I've seen are designed to be hung. That won't work for me. I need a unit that can sit atop of a terrarium. Does anyone have suggestions for a unit that would fit that specification? It seems like 6500K is the recommended intensity. What gives the best results, T5s, LEDs, or metal halides?


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## VenomR00

Their isn't a "best" result however, if you plant on placing the light fixture directly on top, LED's, are the way to go. Metal Halides and Florescents will increase the heat way to much for frogs to live in it.


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## Groundhog

Jason DeSantis said:


> Lighting is also very important. To keep up color you will want to have a light output of 6500k or higher. This will keep the colors up on the broms. I doesn't matter if you use fluorescent or led but the kelvin rating does. Wattage is not important at all and is just the rating on how much the bulb consumes in energy and not the light it omits.
> 
> Fertilizer in the terrarium is not important, with the animals running around and urinating and deficating on the plants.
> 
> Positioning of bromeliads in the terrarium is well worth noting. As stated above it does stay very humid so planting bromeliads is not the best idea. Neos will do best if grown epiphytically in your terrarium. You can mount them on a background or just place them in the little nooks. I like to mount them on driftwood or just jam them in cracks. Jason


Whoah Nellie--We need to clarify something important here. I am no physicist, but light intensity and duration are not only important to plant growth, they are crucial. 

It is true that wattage is not synonymous with intensity, which is measured in foot candles or lumens. But there is a correlation; 100 W bulbs are brighter than 60 W bulbs. And color temperature is not a measure of intensity. 

Neoregelias are usually part sun (bright light) epiphytic plants, growing high in leafy trees. In the neotropics, that is pretty bright. Of course, the closer to the equator, the brighter the sun--full sun at noon in Caracas is brighter than in Detroit or even Atlanta. 

This is relevant, because many growers dish out advice based on their own growing conditions--like those Hawaiian orchid vendors who advise cattleyas to placed in moderate light (do not do this...). Or take Neo 'Fireball,' a plant that prefers very bright light grown indoors (as do many of its hybrids). At the BBG, they have a huge Fireball in an unobstructed glass house--and it turns green every winter. This not a result of changing color temperature, but of decreased intensity and duration. Right around now, it starts to color up again. Fireball can easily be grown on a bright porch, or in south window indoors. Now try and grow the same plant in full sun in Australia, it will burn to a crisp (I read this in one of the journals--digging for the reference!).

I think what happens to indoor growers is that they are not aware of the relationship between placement and intensity.

1) Intensity decreases towards the ends of the tubes. Light stand growers know this and take advantage of it, Smithiantha or Nematanthus in the middle, African violets or episcias at the ends. For bromeliads, neos in the middle, guzmanias at the ends;

2) Intensity decreases geometrically as one gets further down from the source. In other words, 2' away is not 1/2 the light of 1'; away--it is actually 1/4 (2 X 2); 3' away is 1/9, and so on. 
This matters, because many frog and other herp keepers have an almost religious commitment to vertical tanks. Man, I've seen me some lulus--like 55s turned vertical. Now, how the #[email protected]& is one supposed to light this thing? There is not enough surface area to compensate for the height. The amount of light necessary to light the lower part of the tank would certainly burn many plants up top.
Experienced aquarists may notice that this is related to the square-cube law, it is the same reason why it is easier to maintain a 20L rather than 20H fish tank (more surface area).
Incidentally, the same principle applies to windows. I hear "Why don't my mini roses flower in my south bay window?!?" Go over their house, plants are on some coffee table, 6-7' away from the window ... I am not allowed to slap them

3) As I understand it, plants produce reds (anthocyanins) as a reaction to light intensity. Kiew suggests that this the reasons plants have discolor leaves; to protect against increased light intensity (think of a begonia in a forest and the nearby tree is knocked down by lightning--without the discolor leaf, the plant would burn).

The point is that neoregelias will not color up well under lower light intensities; they are not philodendrons and they are not guzmanias. Many tank growers may not care about or be aware of this, as they place their plants fairly close to the lights. Do you have good light? If you can't afford a light meter, a good test are your terrestrial cryptanthus--if they stay in good color, you have good light. 

For neoregelia color, the primary factor is light intensity, not color temperature. Some growers still use a mix of warm white (2700K) and cool white (4100K) tubes; plants placed 1' away look fine. 

See _Bromeliads: A cultural manual_ (BSI) for a good non-technical discussion of bromeliads and light.

Hope this clears this uup.

Addendum: Of course, many of us feel that daylight color temps (5000 to 6700K) are better, but Venom is right that best for plants would actually be a mix. However, 5000 to 6700K is better for our pets, so we make due. Besides I think that most of the rainforest tropicals we grow don't really care; most of are not growing pineapples, trying to get aroids to mature form, or mass producing cut flowers or citrus fruits under lights. And I don't hear the cryptanthus or episcias complaining


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## Groundhog

insaneglitchx said:


> My broms are losing their color, and I know I need new lighting. I've been looking into LEDs or T5s, but most of the units I've seen are designed to be hung. That won't work for me. I need a unit that can sit atop of a terrarium. Does anyone have suggestions for a unit that would fit that specification? It seems like 6500K is the recommended intensity. What gives the best results, T5s, LEDs, or metal halides?


Once again, color temp is not a measure of light intensity! Please see previous post. 

What are the specs of your tank? If it is rectangle, a double T5 HO (high output) unit is not prohibitively expensive, and the bulbs are fairly durable (though they should still be replaced every 12-15 months).

Venom is correct that metal halides are way too hot (unless you keep uromastyx).


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## insaneglitchx

I currently have a T8 (unknown color temp) over my 18x18x18 and an Exo Terra 18" CFL hood with a 26W Exo Terra Repti Glo 5.0 and a 26W Exo Terra Repti Glo 10.0 over my 18x18x24. 

I picked up a Marineland 24'' 400 lumen Single Bright LED fixture today, and it produced far less light than I hoped. I'm taking it back as soon as I can. 

I was thinking that the cheapest and easiest fix, while most likely not the best, would be to switch out my Repti Glo bulbs for Jungle Dawn screw in LEDs or Exo Terra Natural Light Full Spectrum Daylight Bulbs. Would that be ok? What about a Zoo Med AquaSun T5-HO Double Light Linear Fluorescent Hood with two 6700K bulbs? I'm worried about a T5 unit increasing the heat too much. Should I be? Any recommendations about LED fixtures, other than the screw ins I mentioned?


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## Groundhog

insaneglitchx said:


> I currently have a T8 (unknown color temp) over my 18x18x18 and an Exo Terra 18" CFL hood with a 26W Exo Terra Repti Glo 5.0 and a 26W Exo Terra Repti Glo 10.0 over my 18x18x24.
> 
> I picked up a Marineland 24'' 400 lumen Single Bright LED fixture today, and it produced far less light than I hoped. I'm taking it back as soon as I can.
> 
> I was thinking that the cheapest and easiest fix, while most likely not the best, would be to switch out my Repti Glo bulbs for Jungle Dawn screw in LEDs or Exo Terra Natural Light Full Spectrum Daylight Bulbs. Would that be ok? What about a Zoo Med AquaSun T5-HO Double Light Linear Fluorescent Hood with two 6700K bulbs? I'm worried about a T5 unit increasing the heat too much. Should I be? Any recommendations about LED fixtures, other than the screw ins I mentioned?


Hey Insane, what pets do you keep? PDFs? The Repti Glo 2.0 is 6700K. The 5.0, by contrast, is a UVB bulb for jungle lizards and chelonians (to be used in conjunction with a 2.0); the 10.0 is for desert critters (uromastyx, bearded dragons, etc.) The 5 and the 10 denote the percentages of UVB in the total light output, that is why they are not very bright, because ultraviolet is not visible to the primate eye (bees and lizards see it just fine, thanks;-)

1) Were it my tank, I'd try one 2.0 with one 5.0 to start;
2) But with your surface area, you can go two Exo Terra units, with three 2.0 and one 5.0
3) Of course, if you have a glass cover, this is rendered moot--UV is filtered out by glass (why we don't get sunburned in the house). So go two 2.0 bulbs in each;
4) T5s are not too hot for me, but I use mine over a screen. I believe that most people who use T5 HO units suspend them over their tanks, not allowing them to sit on the glass. Anyone here do this?


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## insaneglitchx

I actually keep crested geckos. I joined this site to learn to do my best attempt at a gecko appropriate naturalistic terrarium. 

I have a glass top with mesh vents... basically my UV is wasted then.  The least I could do would be to switch out my Repti Glo 10.0 for a 2.0 then. 

As I really only have 18'' of SA on the top for a fixture to sit, I'd have to find a 20'' fixture. Either that or just get a longer unit, and figure out a way to align the 18x18x18 and the 18x18x24. That's why I'm hoping to have a unit that can just sit atop the terrariums. 

Also, as a first year med student, I'll be moving around quite a bit. Stringing up a suspended light fixture doesn't really make sense for me.


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## Groundhog

For cresties, why not just use two 2.0, in an Exo Terra hood? (Essentially for the plants.) You can take care of their nutritional needs with Repashy, no?


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## insaneglitchx

Do you think there would be an advantage to the LED screw ins over the 2.0 Repti Glo? What about the Exo Terra Natural Light Full Spectrum Daylight Bulbs, also at 6700K? a 2.0 Repti glo T8 would be fine for the 18x18x18 too, right?


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## Groundhog

All I know about LEDs is from reading--I have no experience with them. I think Venom may be the man to ask!


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## VenomR00

Which LED's would you be using? The major benefits from LED are that the light is more evenly dispersed allowing plant growth throughout the tank to happen because the reds and blues are even. And the heat is far lower the most over the other conventional lamps.

If the florescent is producing UVB for the crestie, then I would stick to it purely for that purpose because the LED's that produce UVB or UVA are way over priced right now.


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## DrawntoLife

Seems like there is a lot of knowledge here. All my experience with lighting is based on aquariums so I feel I may need a little help lighting my first two vivs. They're both going to be 20g verts sitting right next to eAchother and I'd like to put a fireball in each tank near the top. But I'm worried that the lighting plan on using might be over doing it a bit.
I want to get a 24" 4 bulb t5ho by sunblaze. The color temp I'll be customizing. I'll be hanging the fixture about two inches from the glass to allow some air movement between the light and tanks


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## DrawntoLife

Output is I think 8000 lumens just from the bulbs that is not considering good reflectors.


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## bastimentos

What is the approach for mounting on hardwood that is already in the viv?


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## Dworon1

I usually just drill a small hole in the wood and stick the stolon in. Then maybe cover the base with some sphagnum - though I've had mixed results with this. Some broms thrive, some rotted out. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## SAS

I am trying these lights for my bromeliad heave tank:

GrowSpot LED Grow Light

I have the 6500k one directly above my 20x20X24 inch acrylic cube.
I also have a red one (experimenting with) above the tank at an angle, but I don't like the way it makes the tank look red.
Finally, I have the blue one (experimenting with) mounted at an angle and don't mind the slight blue tinge it gives to my tank.

Any thoughts? 

Also, I just started the tank and from what I have read, I'll need to add some circulation, do you think this is best accomplished with passive vents or an internal fan?

Finally, I have a clay background and read somewhere that I can mount the bromeliads just by pushing them in to the clay. Is this true? or do I need to consider other mounting options?

Here are two photos, one with all three lights and one with just the 6500k light.


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## zachxbass

Good write up. Thanks for the info!

Sent from my kindle fire using tapatalk


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## shoz

How do you circulate air while keeping a stable humidity level?


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## Dworon1

I use an internal fan like the one in this pic. It is a small (40mm I think) computer fan housed in a piece of PVC and mesh and held up with a neodymium magnet.








There are other ways to make internal or external ductwork if you don't like looking at the fan. 

With the misting system or hand misting you get air movement and high humidity.


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## SAS

Thanks for the info, this has me reconsidering my new tanks design.


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## ChanceG

> Scale:
> Scale is a pest! Hands down the most feared of all the bromeliad pests. There are two basic types dealt with. White scale which is about a 1/16", tends to live on the underside of leaves and deep in the axils.
> 
> 
> Could you please tell me what is this white scale concretely? I'm troubled in white scale on my bromes and want to know its common name and scientific name....


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## Jason DeSantis

ChanceG said:


> Scale:
> Could you please tell me what is this white scale concretely? I'm troubled in white scale on my bromes and want to know its common name and scientific name....
> 
> 
> 
> Here are a couple good write ups for you to view:
> Scale Insects & Bromeliads
> white peach scale - Pseudaulacaspis pentagona (Targioni)
> Scale insect - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Click to expand...


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## jdgators

Can't seem to find this elsewhere, but got a brom with a weird green slime. I soaked brom for 3 hours in filtered, conditioned water, then soaked in 5% bleach for 3 min, and then rinsed multiple times, and soaked for 24 hours in filtered conditioned water, and let dry for about 18 hours. Done this for many broms without a problem, but noticed on this specific one a green slime/gelatin/ooze between some of the leaves toward the axil. I've never seen this before, so curious about what it is? And how to treat it?


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## FroggyKnight

Could be thick algae growth. I doubt it would be a problem although someone might prove me otherwise….ya never know


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## jdgators

Thanks! Any recommendations on how to remove it before I put it in the tank? Physical removal and another bleach bath?


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## FroggyKnight

A little of both would be good. Pull out what is visible and reachable then use a mild bleach solution the same way as you would for any new plant. 

Sometimes algae is a pain in the neck and an eyesore. Other times it can give that tank the jungle look you need! When its in my broms, its an eyesore and a nuisance.


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## Groundhog

jdgators said:


> Thanks! Any recommendations on how to remove it before I put it in the tank? Physical removal and another bleach bath?


Certainly looks like algae to me. If you do not feel any of the plant tissue getting soft or mushy, then it is not a rotting core, and not dangerous to the plant. Truth to tell, I would simply rinse the plant very thoroughly with lukewarm water and use it, depending on the source, of course (a grower? another hobbyist? Home Depot? another tank with amphibians? plucked off a tree?)

1) What is the source?
2) Which variety of bromeliad?

P. S. For me, if the plant came from one of the reputable growers/vendors, then I really believe that all of this triple washing/decontamination/double secret probation stuff is overkill--and potentially stressful to the plants. What, exactly, is everybody so afraid of? A plant pathogen or an animal disease? Of course, all plants should be rinsed and all substrate removed; any plants from retail outlets should be grown out in prop tanks for a while. In my view, I fear pesticide residues way more than pathogens. 

Maybe I am relying too much on personal experience, but I have encountered only one problem in 28 years, when I introduced scale. Picking/swabbing did not work, so I had to remove the two affected plants (it did not go near any bromeliads!). That's it.


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## jdgators

It's a neo - "Chocolate Bars" - that I got from a grower in FL. It was grown outdoors. 

I think I will go ahead and rinse and lightly scrub off the algae. Then I'll go ahead and put it in a grow out tank and wait before I place it in any frog tanks.

Thanks for the help!


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## Groundhog

jdgators said:


> It's a neo - "Chocolate Bars" - that I got from a grower in FL. It was grown outdoors.
> 
> I think I will go ahead and rinse and lightly scrub off the algae. Then I'll go ahead and put it in a grow out tank and wait before I place it in any frog tanks.
> 
> Thanks for the help!


I am curious: What is your primary fear--pathogens or pesticides?


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## jdgators

In general pesticides, but when I see something out of the ordinary, pathogens are neck and neck.

Mostly I want to make sure all plants are as clean from contaminants as reasonably achievable.



Groundhog said:


> I am curious: What is your primary fear--pathogens or pesticides?


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## IndustrialDreamz

Question for you all, I got a couple of neo. fireballs. I have had them for 2 months now. They are doing great in growing, but their red coloration has not come back since ive had them. I have 1 T8 6500k 48" flourecent tube, and another 48" flourecent tube with red and blue renditions wich is 6500k as well (got this one from petco its called flora sun)
All the plants are doing good but have not got color back. help?


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## frogparty

T8 lighting is notorious for letting broms lose their color, switch up to HOT5, CFL, or LED and watch the color come back


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## IndustrialDreamz

frogparty said:


> T8 lighting is notorious for letting broms lose their color, switch up to HOT5, CFL, or LED and watch the color come back


See I did not know that! Thanks!

And this is why sometimes questions are better than research.


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## IndustrialDreamz

frogparty said:


> T8 lighting is notorious for letting broms lose their color, switch up to HOT5, CFL, or LED and watch the color come back



Hey frogparty I had another question.
I stuck 2 brom pups in a nook on my driftwood piece. The driftwood is half in water and the other half is above water, but yet a quarter of the wood that is above the water stays saturated even though its not in the water, and that is where I planted the bromeliad, I do have air flow and the nook is wide enough for air to breeze around the roots (pups are tied down with thread), but do you think that the saturation of the wood is too wet for the brom and may rot it? There is no waterfall anywhere around the driftwood its in a stagnant position.


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## Sauerkraut

IndustrialDreamz said:


> Question for you all, I got a couple of neo. fireballs. I have had them for 2 months now. They are doing great in growing, but their red coloration has not come back since ive had them. I have 1 T8 6500k 48" flourecent tube, and another 48" flourecent tube with red and blue renditions wich is 6500k as well (got this one from petco its called flora sun)
> All the plants are doing good but have not got color back. help?


+1 to what frogparty said. If you're shopping at petco, check out their colormax bulb. I had the same problem, and their LED colormax brought back the reds in my neo as well


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## frogparty

IndustrialDreamz said:


> Hey frogparty I had another question.
> I stuck 2 brom pups in a nook on my driftwood piece. The driftwood is half in water and the other half is above water, but yet a quarter of the wood that is above the water stays saturated even though its not in the water, and that is where I planted the bromeliad, I do have air flow and the nook is wide enough for air to breeze around the roots (pups are tied down with thread), but do you think that the saturation of the wood is too wet for the brom and may rot it? There is no waterfall anywhere around the driftwood its in a stagnant position.


I like to think about plant placement by thinking about what they're designed to do.
Bromeliads we use in vivs are epiphytic, they grow on trees and branches where drainage is excellent. Even if there is rain every day, the roots are never exposed to saturation. The plant will likely tolerate it just fine if the roots have airflow, and likely won't give you any problems. If there's extra moss around its base, I'd remove it and let roots grow exposed to the air. If it looks like the plant is suffering or not rooting well, move it up where the roots can dry


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## DorisSlammington

I have a chiquita linda and a Neoregelia olens X fireball from NEHERP. Both mounted with wire onto cork about 8" from my T5HO 4 bulb fixture (originally for my aquarium which had great plant growth). 
I have removed the three pups from the 'linda' and placed them in three different locations. One location is misted pretty hardily misted for 20 secs. every 1.5 hours. One is lightly misted the same, and the third is in a much dryer yet still humid location. 

My questions: 
1) Which location do you think broms like best, roots dripping, cup full, or the ability to dry out more.

2) My broms are totally green, olens has a few purple speckles left but not the red I'd love. Should I supplement more light or is it only because I've only had them a month?

3) Will 'linda' make more pups before she dies?

4) Will my olens still flower and pup if it doesn't color up?

5) I have no animals, will my broms prosper from ferts in the cup?


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## Darrell S

Hi.
Could we please revisit the stabbing to produce pups. my brom has never flowered or pupped. would I do this stabbing thing right in the center of the plant. Thanks


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## Ben689

Is it okay to trim bromeliad leaves?


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## DorisSlammington

Are basking lights okay for broms? Will they burn plants? I was considering a viv with Williams dwarf geckos but they are sun worshipers as well as humidity lovers. I would love to find a fauna that loves broms and moss but also doesn't eat bugs.


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## j.riv

Can the brimiliades out grow the vivarium lets say 18 x 24 tall ? And is the anyway that you can keep it under control? Meaning. Trimming


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## Darrell S

I poked the center of a few of my bromeliads with a wooden skewer for barbecuing and it worked great to trigger the plant into making pups. Thank you for the write up and the tips.


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## TJ_Burton

j.riv said:


> Can the brimiliades out grow the vivarium lets say 18 x 24 tall ? And is the anyway that you can keep it under control? Meaning. Trimming


Firstly, make sure to choose bromeliad neoregelia cultivars that stay small (between 4 to 6 inches tops). Some great examples are Dartanion, Wild Tiger, Wee Willy, Tiger Cub, etc.

Secondly, you will need to trim pups as they become too large for the enclosure. Best to wait for the pup to be at least 1/3 of the size of the parent plant, and the rosette should already be open.

The best way to avoid congestion issues is to use fewer broms at the start, and allow them to grow in an pup on their own. This leads to very natural looking growth and placement within the vivarium.


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## TJ_Burton

DorisSlammington said:


> I have a chiquita linda and a Neoregelia olens X fireball from NEHERP. Both mounted with wire onto cork about 8" from my T5HO 4 bulb fixture (originally for my aquarium which had great plant growth).
> I have removed the three pups from the 'linda' and placed them in three different locations. One location is misted pretty hardily misted for 20 secs. every 1.5 hours. One is lightly misted the same, and the third is in a much dryer yet still humid location.
> 
> My questions:
> 
> 1) Which location do you think broms like best, roots dripping, cup full, or the ability to dry out more.
> 
> The placement should allow the brom's base to dry out within a couple hours of watering. If you use sphagnum near the base to promote root growth, it should be slung loosely enough that it never becomes soppy. Filling the rosette with water is always great provided it is flushed out every 4 to 5 days to prevent bacterial buildup that can lead to rot. Sometimes this means going into the enclosure and flushing them by hand with a misting bottle or watering can even if you have an automatic misting system
> 
> 2) My broms are totally green, olens has a few purple speckles left but not the red I'd love. Should I supplement more light or is it only because I've only had them a month?
> 
> You likely need more light. Bromeliads require intense lighting in order to maintain color. In the wild they are often atop trees near the forest canopy and exposed to full sun for many hours during the day. In captivity, providing this level of light takes very high output fixtures. I currently use a Radion XR30w Pro (170 watt variable usage) light fixture to get the most color out of my broms. They usually lose a bit of color when shipped to me, and within 3 weeks the returning color is obvious. In the photo below, I am holding a Wild Tiger that is kept under 4000 Lux of LED lighting next to my Wild Tiger that is in my display viv under a varying Lux between 9000 and 12000. You can very obviously see the difference in color intensity between them. They looked identical a couple of weeks ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3) Will 'linda' make more pups before she dies?
> 
> Potentially yes.
> 
> 4) Will my olens still flower and pup if it doesn't color up?
> 
> Potentially yes, but at a much slower rate if at all.
> 
> 5) I have no animals, will my broms prosper from ferts in the cup?
> 
> I only ever lightly spray water with diluted ferts around the roots where the loose sphagnum is. Leaving ferts in the cup can lead to rot.


Answered in RED above.
Hope that helps!


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## DorisSlammington

Thank you TJ_Burton !

Since I first posted this I have had a lot of luck with my broms.

My 'linda's have now made six pups who are all adults making even more pups. 

My 'olens' made two pups whom are doing great. The mother plant quickly died after giving her life to her two clones. As soon as they both reached the same height as her she just withered away the brown mush and both the new olens colored up greatly. 
I have since added new lights which made every one of my broms color up. Except I had a terrible experiment. Since both 'olens were orange freckled I decided to buy bromeliad fertilizer. It was supposed to be very weak and and mostly the Potassium (K) with no Urea. I used a sprinkle of granules in distilled water and used a shot glass the gently pour it one the moss of only one olens and not the other. Within the week, the brom turned a vibrant green and lost all it's freckles  while the unfertilized olens looks so much healthier in comparison. I will never fertilize them again! This same fertilizer did make my goldfish plant bloom though!


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## DorisSlammington

I'm having trouble with the pup from my neoregelia guacamole. it started out very nicely striped and healthy. But I cut back some dischidia above it and the latex sap fell on the leaves. It seemed like wherever the sap fell it started drying up and burning. But maybe I'm guessing wrong because around the same time the mist head that targeted this brom broke and this area became the driest. Also it is the closest to my four t5HO bulbs and they are quite hot. 
What caused the burning leaves? 
I'm hoping it will recover. The base has brown goop and is more wobbly than normal so I really hope I don't have any crownrot, but on the other hand it is shooting out new white roots and two new leaves. Any advice?


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## TJ_Burton

DorisSlammington said:


> I'm having trouble with the pup from my neoregelia guacamole. it started out very nicely striped and healthy. But I cut back some dischidia above it and the latex sap fell on the leaves. It seemed like wherever the sap fell it started drying up and burning. But maybe I'm guessing wrong because around the same time the mist head that targeted this brom broke and this area became the driest. Also it is the closest to my four t5HO bulbs and they are quite hot.
> What caused the burning leaves?
> I'm hoping it will recover. The base has brown goop and is more wobbly than normal so I really hope I don't have any crownrot, but on the other hand it is shooting out new white roots and two new leaves. Any advice?


Any of my broms that get severe leaf damage like that, I cut the leaves back to just before the burn, or remove them entirely from the rosette. You don't have to, but it keeps them looking nicer.


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## DorisSlammington

I saw that you do not have Guacamole in your brom list, TJ. I guess that means I have one you don't have! This was an older picture of the mother guacamole after she bloomed. She only gave me one pup, the one that's burning now and I hope to save.


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## TJ_Burton

DorisSlammington said:


> I saw that you do not have Guacamole in your brom list, TJ. I guess that means I have one you don't have! This was an older picture of the mother guacamole after she bloomed. She only gave me one pup, the one that's burning now and I hope to save.


I do not!

I do have to update the list though, because I have obtained approx 20 new cultivars since I made that blog post


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## jdawud

I have a neoregalia than just finished blooming and is pupping. But now the closed up flower mass is turning a dark slimy looking green. Should I just let it do its thing or should I remove the spent flower mass? Will it produce seeds at all?


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## K3viin128

Very well addressed page.. My question is that ventilation is very important.. How much is needed.. I know ideally you want high humidity for the frogs but broms are also important so what's the balance? Is a fan needed? Or just some air flow from the top and front vent on the Exo terra


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## Dblackston

I recently purchased my first broms for my 36x18x18 exo. I was suprised to see one bloom in only a few short months.

I realize that it will now perish, however it is already growing a decent sized pup to continue on its legacy. 

I was however suprised by how long the blooms lasted.....and not in a good way. They only lasted around 3 days. I fear I may have done something wrong, the cup was full when it bloomed, and so I misted fairly heavy to maintain a full cup. I am afraid this may have been the cause of the quick demise. 

Can someone confirm or deny this? How long should blooms in broms last? This was a neo. Ritzy Red.

Should I now trim the dead blooms out or leave them? They have molded over and I am afraid they will rot the brom prematurely. There is a healthy spring/iso culture but I seriously doubt they will clean up inside a brom. 

Here are some pictures, please advise!


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## The Drunken Gnome

Just a link for some further reading http://www.bromeliads.info/popular-bromeliad-cultivars/


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## The Drunken Gnome

frogparty said:


> To answer your question.....no. Flowering CAN be induced with the addition of ethylene gas. But remember that all bromeliads are determinate bloomers, and that once the plant flowers, its on a downward spiral. Pupping CAN be induced by heavier fertilization( in the form of osmocote) in the root zone of your broms. HOWEVER, fertilizing broms causes an unpleasant "leggy" look to your broms.


Can using banana as a feeding station release enough ethylene gas to promote flowering?


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## amit

sorry - please delete.


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## Denny

very well written jason i enjoyed reading! keep up the good work.


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## DorisSlammington

I just read that bromeliads can make seeds and that you can grow them from seed. I had no idea! Is it from the spiky spend flower head in the cup when the flowers are spent? I just want to know, how does one cultivate bromeliad seeds? Do you need to let them mature, dry? Stay wet? How does one grow these seeds after they're collected? I'm googling more as I type but I think these questions would be great to answer in this thread.


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## DorisSlammington

This is not my video, but I found an informant video about growing neos from seed. They look easy enough but he states at the end that it takes about 5 years to get a fully grown plant. I don't mind that


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## chulainnledsom

Good guide thanks for the info!


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## mrvivarium

DorisSlammington said:


> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tXRNDc4sBzo This is not my video, but I found an informant video about growing neos from seed. They look easy enough but he states at the end that it takes about 5 years to get a fully grown plant. I don't mind that


This is my video LOL

if you have any qustions feel free to ask


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## chulainnledsom

Has anyone kept Guzmania in a viv? Mine don't appear to be enjoying it


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## SoloSK71

I wanted to confirm something from one of the earliest posts now that I am starting to think about plants.

When a 5% bleach solution is referred to, this is not 5% hypochlorite bleach, but instead it is 50ml of 5% hypochlorite bleach in 1l of water, correct?

Solo


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## hungrymonkeyx3

I am going to bookmark this since it'll be lots of useful information for my upcoming bromeliads.


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## Anda

A question related to lighting and reddening.
I planted two bromeliads rather close to the light source. They get plenty of water, but also plenty of light. 
Starting out they were both green, but as you can see from the picture, they have turned red. Can they survive like this or are they dying and should be moved?


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## Socratic Monologue

Those look like 'Fireball' varieties, or Fireball crosses -- they are supposed to look red like that. They appreciate all that light, and they look great.


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## Gastrotheca

If they are turning red, you are doing things right!

Gastrotheca
-----------------------------
Crested Gecko 0.2.0


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