# Bromeliad Caresheet for Beginners



## Groundhog

The following is a caresheet I wrote for the NY Bromeliad Society. While it is not specifically geared to pdf tanks, it should provide basic cultural guidelines for beginners:

"BROMELIADS IN YOUR TERRARIUM"


Bromeliads are among the most popular plants for terrariums containing “herps,” and with good reason; they can be beautiful and fascinating. They are also tough—tolerating the antics of our tree frogs, dart frogs, reed frogs and/or small to medium-sized lizards. Many grow in nature as epiphytes (on trees), or as saxicoles (on rocks). As such, they usually need good air circulation to do well, and some are not good candidates for closed tanks. We are aware that neoregelias have become immensely popular with dart frog keepers, for functional as well as aesthetic reasons. But many popular neos (e.g., ‘Fireball’) are near full-sun plants that stretch after a while in tanks. Black Jungle has suggested that guzmanias and vrieseas may be better choices for humid terrariums for two reasons: they tolerate more humidity and do not need as high light levels to maintain good conformation. We agree. Yet with some careful and intelligent planning, it can be easy and rewarding to grow a variety of bromeliads (including many neos) in terrariums. Simply put, the key is to select the right bromeliads for your habitat--and not try to bend your habitat to the “nicest” bromeliad.

Planting: Whether your tank is open, partially screened or closed, all bromeliads need a friable mix that drains well. They are not good candidates for the very wet substrates suitable for Cryptocorynes or Anubias. We agree with the latest consensus, and recommend a mix of coconut coir and an amendment (e.g., tree fern fiber and/or seedling orchid bark) rather than potting soil; the latter which degrades too fast in a closed, warm environment. Do not use charcoal; it accomplishes nothing. If your tank is wet, try “mounding” or “false-planting.” Simply plant the pup in a small clay pot (bromeliads do not have large root systems) and place the pot on top of the substrate; this can easily be hidden with cork or other decor. 

Mounting: For true epiphytes, the two best mounting media are cork bark or tree fern slabs. Young tank bromeliads (Guzmanias, Vrieseas, and Neos) can be tied to their mounts with monofilament line. Sphagnum moss is usually not necessary, although neos do seem to stay smaller without it. If the plant has a stolon (a basal stem), just shove the stolon into the mount. Many tillandsias can be attached with a waterproof glue; we use and recommend E6000 (remove any animals from the tank for a few hours while working with any glue). See the Black Jungle website (http://www.blackjungle.com) for a slideshow on mounting epiphytes.

Lighting: Most of these plants will fare well with at least two full-spectrum fluorescent tubes running the length of the tank. “Power compact” bulbs with a color temperature of 6700K provide an intense lighting that can stimulate some sun-lovers to grow better if grown closer to the lights. As a general rule, plants grown under brighter light need more moisture and will tolerate more humidity. This is an area that merits further investigation and experimentation--from all of us!

A Warning: In any terrarium containing animals it is crucial to use a fertilizer that is animal-safe. We recommend Dyna-Gro or Dyna-Bloom, which are based on ammonia and not urea (the latter which is useless to bromeliads). As there are no drainage holes in a terrarium, these should be used sparingly and at reduced strength. Try not to foliar-feed neos, as it can cause their leaf markings to fade. 

Following is a selection of bromeliads known to grow well in terrariums, with some cultural tips. These plants have been tested by many hobbyists in tanks with animals. As a rule, it is best to start with large pups or starts out of plug trays; finished plants that are often available at outlets like Home Depot usually do not acclimate well to a terrarium (this may be why guzmanias and vrieseas get an undeserved reputation as tricky terrarium plants). 

If you are unfamiliar with any species or variety, most can be seen at http://www.fcbs.org

Terrestrial Bromeliads:
Cryptanthus sp: The “earth stars” are great foreground plants in any terrarium. Cryptanthus are true terrestrials and do not grow mounted (any you may see mounted are living off their reserves). C. bivitattus, ‘Cafe au Lait,’ and ‘Ruby’ form medium-sized rosettes. “Black Mystic’ grows well, but can get 8-10” across; C. beuckeri is a more upright form that does well under moderate light.
Guzmania sp: While these usually grow as epiphytes, they enjoy some moisture and can thrive with a well drained substrate. G. lingulata minor and cultivars like ‘Trinidad’ and ‘El Cope’ are known to perform well. There is also G. ‘Theresa,’ a cute miniature cultivar barely 4” tall. Their leaves are usually somewhat more delicate than those of other genera.

Epiphytic Bromeliads:
Neoregelia sp: Many can do well in tanks with some ventilation and bright light. Neos grown in closed, dimly-lit terrariums risk etiolating (stretching) after a period of time. Some smaller decorative varieties include Neo. ampullacea and its cultivars, N. dungsiana, N. liliputiana and N. roethii. With brighter lights, one can try ‘Alley Cat,’ ‘Cheers,’ ‘June Night’ or ‘Red Waif.’ For dart frog keepers, some of the medium-sized varieties, such as ‘Alley Cat,’ ‘Pepper,’ ‘Spotted Frog’ and ‘Tigrina’ can hold water. Many of these can easily be mounted up near the lights via their stolons. 
Tillandsia sp: If you have a closed terrarium, it is easier to grow the softer, green-leaved forms. Some vigorous ones include T. bulbosa, T. filifolia and the soft form of T. stricta. T. punctulata is a larger green plant that can grow well “mounded” (see above), but it does not like excessive heat. For more open tanks, good varieties include T. caput-medusae, T. funckiana, the hard-leaf form of T.stricta and T. tricolor melanocrater. Tillandsia ionantha and T. neglecta can usually go either way. Whatever your setup, they all need to drain well.
Vriesea sp: There are some smaller forms that do well in terrariums—but if you mount these, the height of their flower spikes need be taken into consideration. Some good small forms include V. carinata, V. bleherae, V. flammea and V. ‘Cardinalis.’ Vrisea racinae is a lovely small rosette that likes bright light and hates wet feet—so mount it like a neo in a ventilated tank, up near the lights. There is now a Vriesea splendens ‘Mini’ (only 12” tall) that seems promising for larger tanks. 

Maintenance: In open tanks, epiphytes should be sprayed daily in summer, 2-3X a week in winter. Plants grown in covered tanks should, of course, be sprayed less often—but spray at least weekly, if only to flush out their cups. Note: As bromeliads are sensitive to chlorine and fluoride, it is best to use aged water; if your water is hard, use bottled water. Bromeliads appreciate humidity levels between 50-80 percent, which is fine with many tropical herps. Careful observation should tell you if/when plants need water; a good hygrometer will tell you the humidity level. Remember, all of the listed bromeliads can grow well in terrariums, as long as they are not water-logged.
▬

Compliments of The New York Bromeliad Society. We meet the first Tuesday of each month (except July, August and September) at the SLC Center, 352 Seventh Avenue (bet 29th & 30th Streets), 16th floor. Meetings begin promptly at 7 P.M. An annual membership is only $20. Programs include slide presentations, demonstrations on all aspects of culture, a holiday party and auction, and more. Guests are always welcome!

See us at http://www.nybromeliadsociety.org


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## Grassypeak

Nice George,

Thanks for the work. I still disagree with you on the Cryptanthus though. I’m going to mount Crypt. Scott Irvin right in the center of my new viv and we’ll see how it does. If it lasts more than a year and produces good pups I’m going to make you buy me a beer at some future brom society meeting. :wink:


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## sweety

thanks, very interesting.

nadine


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## raimeiken

guzmanias and vrieseas are easier to care in a terrarium than Neos? I though it was the other way around? :?


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## Groundhog

*Clarification*

We do not contend that "guzmanias and vrieseas are easier than neos"--only that they usually do not require as much light.

Phrasing the question this way, the categories are too broad--it is like asking who would win if an X-Man fought an Avenger, or if a Democrat fought a Republican--which X-Man? Which Democrat?

If grown from pups--and Home Depot plants can be a good source for pups. btw--some guzmanias and vrieseas do perform well.

Incidentally, in my experience, the "easiest" terrarium bromeliads are some cryptanthus and tillandsias.

Chris: I'll buy either way, buddy  But look at it this way: If I started smoking again, I would last more than a year. Still not a good idea, though.


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## Grassypeak

Yea, I hear ya, but my contention is that the humidity of the viv environment allows for a rules rewrite on Cryptanthus. Also, the life cycle of a Crypt is not indefinite. They eventually give way to their pups. Maybe it takes two years, maybe three, but they don’t go on for a century, like you might. With this in mind, good condition and healthy pups after a year in a viv should be a good indicator of proper husbandry, no?


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## Groundhog

*To mount or not to mount*

Chris: But then, I still don't see why anyone would want to, as their are easier alternatives. I amnot aware that that actually have the ability to grow epiphytic roots--as bromeliads grow, these actually form normal-sized root systems!

In your tank, what is the Crypt on the left under the Nepenthes? Is that a zonatus? Very nice!


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## Grassypeak

George,

There are two crypts under the Nepenthese. The one you are asking about is a Jim Irvin hybrid, ‘Absolute Zero’ It can grow quite large. The green one is called ‘Evon’ (also a Jim Irvin plant) it can be bright red if given enough light. 

As for mounting them epiphytically, the humidity of the viv should allow them to grow a descent root system. I will use a little sphagnum when I mount mine but not enough to consider it potted and elevated. In the viv they appreciate the elevated location (more light) and I like the way they look. I shouldn’t speak as any sort of expert on this, as I haven’t done it. I have seen quite a few examples of it, however, and I really do like the look. I know of at least one that has survived well for over a year. While this is certainly not proof that they should be planted this way, for me it is intriguing. Lets just see how mine does. I’ll admit if it crashes and burns.


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## Groundhog

*To Mount or Not to Mount*

Chris, 

Even if it does "work," I don't think it invalidates the original point. Many plants can grow as opportunistic epiphytes, in the forks of branches, on fallen logs, etc;

For me, it would be like pointing out a 78 yr-old who smoked two packs a day. Such people do exist--but I don't think any one example invalidates the medical warning . People will do what they want, unless they live in a dictatorship (like a doctor explaining that too much tanning is no good, and the patient replying, "but I like the way it looks"--we are not permitted to say, "Fine--but when you get sick, you're on your own..."). 

Basically, I suspect that the reason that people try to grow earth stars mointed is because 1) they they have an idea that "all bromeliads are epiphytes;" and (2) they like the way it looks :wink: 

Q: Would one mount a dieffenbachia because anthuriums are epiphytes? Would one mount a Mamallaria because Rhipsalis is an epiphyte?

Conversely, I do not understand why people don't explore the diversity within the Bromeliacea. If you like color, have you tried some of the rosette tillandsias, like brachycaulos, capitata, filifolia, kegeliana, hondurensis, punctulata, velutina; None of these grows too large and they all have nice rosettes. There are several potential candidates for mounted culture, including tank tillandsias, catopsis, racinea. I think that it creates a cool contrast, showing the diversity in the family, e,g, a neo mounted above a cryptanthus (or, in an Asian setup, a bulbo mounted above a Macodes

I do not like dislike neos. I acknowledge that they have the largest selection of small tank bromeliads. I just have a preference for tillandsioids (Catopsis, Guzmania, Tillandsia, Vriesea with spikes.

To the extent that it is possible, I also like biotopic themes, and keeping it real.


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## phrakt

They say a picture is worth a thousand words:










I'm not saying it's a good idea to mount Crypts, I agree that they should be grown terrestrially, but I had too many pups and I figured I'd try the experiment just for fun. There's no soil and it has grown a MASSIVE root system on the cork bark (you can see one of the roots underneath the frog), which really surprised me.


I have no idea what species this is, this is a pup from a pup from a pup ... from years ago, and it came without a label.


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## Groundhog

*How are we defining epiphyte?*

Okay guys, mount your crypts--eat steak 3Xa day 24-7, take roids and bench 350... :roll: 

That plant is a Cryptanthus Ruby, which is stretching a bit.

An epiphyte is any plant that usually grows on other plants, deriving water and nutrients from the air or surface with modified roots or leaves. On rocks, as most of you know, is a lithophyte. Many plants grow as opportunistic epiphytes; I have seen Episcia growing on wet rocks in botanical gardens. Many plants grow on fallen logs, including Crypts and Spathiphyllums. And Crypts often grow as quasi-lithophytes, in rock fissures. But given the opportunity, they form regular plant root systems, that are shallow but spread a bit. The ideal pot for them is a bulb pan. 

But as for mounting Crypts-- WHY O WHY IS THIS AN EXPERIMENT WORTH UNDERTAKING?!? Oh, let me see if I can, in fact, keep tropical fisk with goldfish, if can snort coke without ill effect, if I can keep an unneutered pit and rottie together, if I can have unlimited unsafe sex, if I can feed live mice to my snake, if I can trust Rove, etc; 

I freely concede that there are people who have engaged in every one of the above behaviors without ill effect--yet I recommend none of these. 

You know what? I should design a viv and plant Pleurothallids in the water section, and mount some Dracaenas--or better yet, tomatoes--"I want to see if it works..." What did Crypts do to deserve this, except to be symmetrical... Bear in mind, Crypts might be the single best foreground plant for tanks with boisterous animals. And as for decorative rosettes, why is it that no one here ever seems to talk about tillandsias?

I do not mean to be confrontational, but I challenge anyone to find a text that shows Crypts growing epiphytically in situ. I have never seen an article in the JBS that suggests this. 

Guys, do what you will. I guess, as I came to this via tropical fish keeping, where there are some recognized rules (pH, density. Since around 1990, I have not felt a need to challenge them (sad story involving plated lizards). Funny, I am a political liberal, but I tend to follow recognized authorities (e.g., my doctor, textbooks, Al Gore, :wink: ) 

Maybe now I am beginning to understand why Richard Dawkins and Bill Maher are considered arrogant...


G

P. S.

Alright--who is going to be the 1st wise guy and send a photo of a mounted tomato on April 1 :lol:


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## Groundhog

*Phrakt*

Any reliable way to sex Agalychnis when I see a young one (1-2") at a show? I have never kept a phyllomedusine--only Hyla, Smilisca, Litoria, Polypedates, Kassina; 

Thanks,

G


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## Groundhog

*Unless...*

Hmnnn...

Are one of you attempting to make an evolutionary point? :shock: 

That unlike, say aroids or gesneriads--ALL bromeliads have some degree of epiphytic potential? (e.g, an innate feature that natural selection could act on?)

Think about it: The family is far younger, evolved in the Andes, has essentially stayed in the New World, cannot tolerate frosts, and with the exception of some tillandsias, almost always grows in rosettes; We know that the first bromeliad was probably a species of Brocchinea, which does grow on top of the ground or on rocks. This is a relatively recent family that has found its niche and is stil evolving... 

Seriously, you know what may be a test of this? In a humid greenhouse, mount a pineapple; in a moderate greenhouse, mount a dyckia...
Also, try mounting a bigeneric cross where the terrestrial seems dominant...

I still suspect that it is probably not going to work in the long term--but I do think this would be an interesting experiment. 

Anyone down?


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