# Kyoto Moss Spores



## crentania (Jul 22, 2008)

So I've been looking at various mosses to attempt in the tanks and I ran across someone using Kyoto moss. I like the look and I was wondering how difficult the care is compared to other mosses. I've tried Riccia twice and failed (though it might finally be taking off in the completely aquatic environment I threw it in after getting annoyed with it. Typical.)

I've been avoiding Java because it looks like it gets a bit too tall. 

Anyone have any suggestions or know what I'm doing wrong or have hints on what I should be getting? 

Thanks!


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## Julio (Oct 8, 2007)

they like to be moist but not wet. and a lot light helps too.


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## crentania (Jul 22, 2008)

I suppose I won't put them in the waterfall then  Thanks!


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## Marinarawr (Jan 14, 2009)

Kyoto moss is a bit hit or miss from what I've heard and experienced. For me the only significant Kyoto moss growth I've gotten is from chunks of moss mixed in with the spores coming back to life . Some new moss is sprouting up too but not as much as the old moss is spreading.

Here's a little chunk of my background with decent growth on the cork bark:


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## crentania (Jul 22, 2008)

Wow thanks for the pic! I'll probly just pick up a packet and see what happens then. With the luck I've had with Riccia, I'm pretty certain this stuff will probably be the same. Hehehe.


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## brog32 (Oct 28, 2005)

I picked up three packs of spores on ebay about a year ago. I used two packs in my 44 gal. I saw zero growth for about six or seven months then all the sudden... it grew every where I put spores that got plenty of light, and was wet but well drained. Ill try to get some pics if I can get my camera working.


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## earthfrog (May 18, 2008)

crentania said:


> So I've been looking at various mosses to attempt in the tanks and I ran across someone using Kyoto moss. I like the look and I was wondering how difficult the care is compared to other mosses. I've tried Riccia twice and failed (though it might finally be taking off in the completely aquatic environment I threw it in after getting annoyed with it. Typical.)
> 
> I've been avoiding Java because it looks like it gets a bit too tall.
> 
> ...


I spoke to the man at Maiban Bonsai, where you can get free shipping on Kyoto spores, and he said the best way to start it is to grow it in indirect light from a shade tree outside (but I'm starting mine in a window indoors) in a ventilated container. The substrate should be mostly sand, any kind that's not dyed or has chemicals added, with a little peat moss mixed in---so I guess that means 60% sand, 40% peat moss (you can substitute cocofiber instead). It should be kept moist, but not soggy. It takes 6-8 weeks to germinate and grow into a carpet, so patience is required!

Maximize Results when Growing Bonsai Trees with Superthrive Vegetable Food from Maiban Bonsai


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## earthfrog (May 18, 2008)

More growing tips:
by
devin mac 
Member Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Boston, MA
Posts: 275 


Re: kyoto moss spores... 

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

This stuff is very commonly used in the bonsai hobby and i've been working with it for probably 9 or 10 years. 

the best results i've had with it, were sowing the spores over a moist substrate (i haven't played with different substrates much, and generally just use regular potting soil spread reasonably thinly, maybe an inch deep) fairly generously. one of those packets (usually people are looking at the Joshua Roth spores that comes from the bonsai hobby anyway) should only be used to dover a little more than a square foot of area, for best coverage and quick growth. 

using a humidity dome helps a LOT, since the top layer of soil will dry out very quickly and the spores won't thrive. very little light until there's a good carpet of green, and then transferring it into higher light, or light equivalent to what it will see in your tank. keep it misted frequently, only bieng careful to not make a "bog" of mud. the substrate should stay moist all the time, but not get "muddy" or "soupy", if that makes sense. it IS important to keep it reasonably dark until there's some decent growth.

I haven't tried to grow it in the tank itself, but i've had great success with this method, and it transfers easily from the growing tray to wherever you want to put it (which, for me, has always been bonsai).


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## earthfrog (May 18, 2008)

One note here---this moss takes awhile to start, so if the lighting is too bright and you use peat moss to start it, spores of sphagnum/peat will dominate and stagnate its growth---so substituing cocofiber may be better---if you can find a 'sterile' potting soil, more power to ya...


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## Tuckinrim8 (Jul 26, 2007)

Great Info! Thanks Susan!


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## crentania (Jul 22, 2008)

That is fantastic info. Thank you so much!


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## earthfrog (May 18, 2008)

*More Kyoto growing tips*

Sure thing---here are a few more tips:

Sterilize the sandy soil/loam mix in a 200-degree oven for a hour, let cool and fill a glass (*NOT* plastic) tray with the substrate to about 1/2-inch deep. Be sure you have a cover to lock in the humidity---it likes 85-90% humidity. Sprinkle spores on top, then wet heavily with a mister bottle. Do not let it get boggy, just wet enough to moisten the substrate. 
Mist lightly 2-3 times a day for a week, then mist once daily to maintain humidity. It does best in the range of 40-75 degrees, so keeping out of direct sun/heat source is a MUST. An hour of EARLY morning window light is all it needs to start growing! It may take 8 weeks or more to see growth---so don't throw it out, be patient!
It is also sensitive to iron/zinc oxide, which is what kills a lot of mosses when you sprinkle vitamin powder in the tank, so avoid watering with spring, purified drinking or tap water---use distilled or RO water instead. 
After it has made a lush carpet, it can be transferred to the tank carefully, supporting it from below and being careful to touch the green moss surface as little as possible.


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## earthfrog (May 18, 2008)

Also, it is imperative to mist from a distance of at least 10 inches away from the spores so you don't oversoak them. Water streaming down the glass means you've sprayed too heavily---there should only be fine condensation after misting. 
I know, there's a lot of little nit-picky rules here, but they all add up to a velvety, green success...


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## earthfrog (May 18, 2008)

crentania said:


> So I've been looking at various mosses to attempt in the tanks and I ran across someone using Kyoto moss. I like the look and I was wondering how difficult the care is compared to other mosses. I've tried Riccia twice and failed (though it might finally be taking off in the completely aquatic environment I threw it in after getting annoyed with it. Typical.)
> 
> I've been avoiding Java because it looks like it gets a bit too tall.
> 
> ...



I have noticed that riccia likes it wet and a bit shady. It doesn't take to wood easily unless it is established on substrate first, then it sends up 'fingers' tentatively. I wouldn't give up on it just yet---although if you're trying to start it up on wood, it will just up and die on you. 

A great/tough moss to try is Krauss' Gold-tipped spikemoss, they sell it at Josh's Frogs---www.joshsfrogs.com. It spreads well, almost like a ground-loving vine---it doesn't hug the ground, it almost seems to hover above it like it is being snobby about lying directly on the substrate. Compared to other mosses, it is more resistant to the vitamin powder damage---I almost wonder if it is a true moss...
So, in shadier, moist spots, try riccia. For everywhere else, try Krauss' spikemoss. It worked good for me---and start Kyoto moss in a container first, then transplant it gingerly into select spots---bright tank light, humid area that is far removed from the main area in which you feed your frogs. 

Good luck!


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