# Modding Exo/ZooMed tops



## TheOregonKid (Nov 25, 2010)

Hi everyone,

I've decided to start using front opening cages and am about to build my next viv. After much research, I finally settled on the ZooMed 18x18x24. I will be making it using an eggcrate false bottom with a small paludarium-style pond big enough to house 2 zebra danios. The background will be a GS base (to control weight) with a clay facade thick enough to retain moisture. The tank will feature a water fixture that cascades down rocks from a heigth of approximately 18".

I understand that the ZooMed tops don't provide proper humidity retention and also result in fruitfly escape. I want to do a cut glass mod like the kind described often here on the board but can't seem to find a step by step thread to show me how. I'm not very handy so a detailed description would be very helpful. In regards to netting do they make metal screen material that is no-see-um rated? (where can you buy it) I think if I used the soft mesh it would look a bit ghetto and I want this tank to be a conversation peice in my living room.

I ordered a new MistKing system last weekend along with the top bracket and will be having it autospray this new viv. Do you think that the combination of the MistKing, Waterfeature, clay background, and pond would be enough to provide proper humidity even with the open top?

Thanks for your help.


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## TheOregonKid (Nov 25, 2010)

bumpity bump bump, bumpity bump bump


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## Yobosayo (Sep 27, 2009)

Measure the area of the plastic insets, go to HD or Ace and have and have them cut you two pieces of glass that you can lay directly on the screen. Works great, and either piece of glass can be raised to provide extra ventilation when desired - a suction cup will help you adjust the glass.


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## Steve25 (Jan 29, 2010)

Hello with those mesh tops that have cross sections... You can get glass cut and lay them on top.

My 24x18x24 I just have 4 glass squares on top. You can just pick them off and clean, etc. You can also get 1 or 2 cut smaller so you have a little air gap for circulation. If you want a mistaking adapter same thing drill a hole in one of those square glass and through the screen


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## varanoid (Jan 21, 2011)

Along the lines of modding an exo terra top, I found that when I laid the glass down on top of the screen, the increased humidity and condensation at the top was causing the screen to rust. I wasn't sure if that was safe for the frogs so I mounted them securely underneath the screen.


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## Ben Wehr (Jan 23, 2011)

Ok, it's zoo med right? 

There's just one big screen right?

Best that's worked for me and I wish I did a video or photo tutorial because it works great and is EASY.

1/8th or 1/4'' acrylic. don't remember the thickness I used.

first. use pliers to wiggle and remove the plastic that holds down the screen thus romoving the support for the screen. Then remove the screen. 

second: measure from the interior of the glue line that held the screen. make sure that the acrylic will fit on the flat lip that's left on the interior of the lid. NOt on top of the old glue line that held the screen.

third. go to plastic shop near by. Look it up there should be some body that can cut an accurate cut. I wouldn't trust a big box hard ware store for smooth presciion cuts. Mine cost me like 6 bucks. Also ask them for acrylic glue. Get the gel kind.

forth: Acrylic, lid frame, and glue in hand put a thin but steady bead of glue on the interior flat/smooth edge and gently lay the acrylic down. Be sure that when you lay it down you don't move it. So you only get one shot here. the acrylic glue will warp the acrylic finish. So, after you lay the panel in the frame use something of substantial weight to hold the acrylic firmly in place and pressed into the frame. This will cause a very strong and clean chemical bond.

Presto. It is much better than jsut a glass panel imo. and it's not hard if you just do it. ALso, in regards to ventalation. I've found that with my 12-12-18 zoomed and my 18-18-18 that they have enough ventalatoin with the front vent and gaps on side and top that it doesn't get too fogged up with a sealed top.

Best!


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## Philsuma (Jul 18, 2006)

varanoid said:


> Along the lines of modding an exo terra top, I found that when I laid the glass down on top of the screen, the increased humidity and condensation at the top was causing the screen to rust. I wasn't sure if that was safe for the frogs so I mounted them securely underneath the screen.


I think the older model screens sometimes rusted and even then...only a small percentage of them. I think there was a manufacturing standard problem with them.

I have at least 10 of each...exo's and Zoomeds and I leave the screens on all of them. I run ultrasonic humidifyers thru the screens and haven't had any of them rust.

The other reason, other than the ultimate adjustablilty of placing glass panels on top, and the ease of not having to cut, snip, glue, cut ect....is that you may want to re-use or resell the viv to someone that wants reptiles of something other than a frog or high humidity animal.

About the only downside I can see, to glass panels placed on the screen over the perm mods is that they could be pulled off by small children and dropped. A buddy of mine had to hard mod his vivs because his young son was constantly touching the tops and the glass....that sort of thing.


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## varanoid (Jan 21, 2011)

Thanks for the feedback philsuma. I must have bought one the pet store had for a long time as it was purchased about a year ago. The glass panes are mounted so that they can be removed if they absolutely need to be but I hope I never sell it. I love my frogs too much and want to expand my collection... a lot.


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## TheOregonKid (Nov 25, 2010)

I've read that Lexan offers the same versatility as acrylic/plexiglass without the bowing issues and it resistant to heat when lights are set on top. If I ordered Lexan then I could go to my dad's place and cut the peices myself without the time/expense involved in going to get glass cut/drilled.

ANy thoughts on Lexan?


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## Philsuma (Jul 18, 2006)

TheOregonKid said:


> ANy thoughts on Lexan?


It's very $$$$


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## profjunk (Jun 23, 2010)

newbee thoughts here, ive always thought there could be a better mouse trap built.....usually not, but i did modify the tops on some of my exo terras with glass by removing the screen and siliconing the glass to the ridge. this isnt my main point....... my point is about the holes needed for fog and power cords to enter through the glass itself , i bought the "glass and tile" drill bits to punch holes in the bottom of ceramic pots and glass when needed , i now throw them away and only use the diamond grinding tools for my dremmel .....they work way faster and you can sculpt the shape you desire through the glass, just keep spraying them with your water bottles to keep the temps down.this works wonders for me , even the thinnest to 1/2" thick glass.....ive even drilled through and near cracked glass with no problems.....get some practice pcs of glass and give her a go, youll be astonished at the speed and ease of a once very intimidating task...........


jeff in anaheim


blue ones, striped ones ,poop ones and some spotted ones , as well as tiny golden ones...(that i now have my first home bred tads from)yay me


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## auratusross (Jan 3, 2011)

if the screen top was to rust is there any potential dangers to the frogs? or is the problem just that obviously it wouldnt look very nice? thanks...ross


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## Ben Wehr (Jan 23, 2011)

I don't think that rust would pose a danger to the frogs. Too much iron oxide? I don't think they would come in contact with it all that often. Now if they were walking on it then that might be different but if a water drop from a rusty screen lands on a frog I don't think it'll hurt. MHO

Philsuma, you give some pretty good reasons to leave the standard screen

Here's my modded top. It looks really nice and clean and profesh.









Here's the screen. 









The screen tank actually stays decently humid with a couple sprays a day. I would probably keep the screen on for darts if I had a mist system hooked up. It would keep the fog off the glass which I'm now noticing a bit with the acrylic mod.


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## LRobb88 (Dec 16, 2008)

I just found a picture frame slightly smaller than the top, pulled out the glass and use it. I keep the humidity usually right around 80, and can slide the glass back to get a bit of a vent at the front of the tank.

It's makeshift (especially since the picture frame had a picture in it...) but it works for me for now. 

The fruit flies seem to come out the vents and door cracks more than the top, and that can be cured with silicone (no pun intended). 

This is a zoomed 12x12x18


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## JJuchems (Feb 16, 2004)

I have used Lexan from Lowe's for Ex tops then went to glass. I am going back to Lexan. I like it and it is easy to drill.


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