# The best method to attach cork at glass?



## MiguelP (Nov 21, 2013)

Hi all,

I´m start to make a few new tanks, and I would like make "cork mosaic" with sphagnum in the gaps for the backgrounds.
Well, I make some tests before start at vivs for see the results and first impressions. But....I find a problem: the silicone no sticks very well to cork. Yesterday i siliconed a piece of cork at a sheet of glass and today with a little effort I could take down the piece of cork and I see that the silicone was not attached at all (pic). 

My question is: I allow it dry the silicone more time? However, in glass, is very complicated unstick two pieces of glass after one day. 

The alternative are Gorilla glue, but I read here that it can also come off after a while...

Any comments are welcome!


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## Sammie (Oct 12, 2009)

Perhaps you got a bad tube of silicone? I've never had problems like that.


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## MiguelP (Nov 21, 2013)

Maybe, its a possibility. But I don´think so: the smell, consistency, etc. are ok. But who knows. However, I read again my threat and maybe I maybe expressed myself badly. The piece of cork has not been taken off by touching it, but I had to use some force. Thus, maybe given more time to cure the silicone improve grip? Or maybe using more silicone? The problem is that the cork surface that touches the glass is quite small..
You glued the cork to glass with silicone with zero problems? 
Thanks!


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## Bob1000 (Jan 15, 2014)

Did you lay the tank down or upright??


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## MiguelP (Nov 21, 2013)

Nop Bob. I tested in a sheet of glass and are down.


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## CAPTAIN RON (Mar 29, 2010)

Give it more time-72 hours to cure properly! I use cork flats siliconed to the back of all of my vivs,and have never had an issue-but give it at least 3 days or more if no hurry! Good luck.
Ron


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## Pumilo (Sep 4, 2010)

Sometimes I will bust out the power tools to partially flatten the back. Don't try to get carried away with this. If you are lucky enough to own a large, bench mounted belt sander, that would be perfect to partially flatten the back. You are basically just trying to knock down the high points, allowing for a flat spot for contact, and more surface area for the silicone to grab.

Alternatively, the less contact you have for your silicone, on the back of each piece of cork, the more silicone is required. On a badly shaped piece with very little, a much larger amount of silicone is required.

Get it? You have to make more contact area for the silicone. You do it by flattening the bark or using more silicone.

One more potential problem can be a dirty piece of cork. If it's too dirty the silicone simply grabs onto the dirt instead of the cork. Of course that releases easily. A dirty piece of cork does NOT appear to be your problem though.

Time will also continue to strengthen the bond of silicone. It may be fully cured in a day or three, but some aquarium manufactures require a 2 week waiting period before filling, to allow the silicone time to increase in strength. This information came from a telephone conversation I had with one of Oceanic Aquarium's head builders, many years ago. They age every aquarium for 2 weeks before they ship out.


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## MiguelP (Nov 21, 2013)

Thanks for the replies! 

I think that Doug he can be right... given that the surface of cork that are in contact with glass is very little... (pic). 

Therefor, Doug, what is your advice if not I have a power tool? more silicone in the contact zones? I think that sanded the piece could be useful too (get some more contact area). 

BTW, Doug in your reticulata tank posted here in DB, how much silicone you put in each piece? or in general, how much puts in piece of cork? 

Again...thanks for your time!


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## Pumilo (Sep 4, 2010)

More silicone on the contact zones. Like 3 times what you've used in the picture directly above this post. You're going to go through some silicone to do this properly.

You asked how much I used on my Retic tank, but that is a moot point. I'm a power tool guy. I slightly flatten each piece, but if you are not a tool guy, use more silicone, lots more.


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## kshorey (Feb 4, 2013)

Brush the back off with a toothbrush as well. there is a lot of dust and loose material on some of the cork i have worked with. get it cleaned off, maybe clean it a bit with a damp rag to grab some of the dust. then when it is dry use plenty of silicone. I used thick beads, and allowed about 5 days of dry time while i worked on the stand.

Oh and as Doug said, power tools can be great. I used a belt sander to give myself plenty of surface area to work with


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