# Constructing a European Viv from scratch x4



## Darryl (Dec 2, 2005)

Just starting a nice little project for one of our fellow Frogger:

These are to be four 450mm x 450mm x 450mm vivs.

All the glass cut for ready to start the construction of the four new vivs:
In the lower right of the photo are the top pieces of the vivs, I have already predrilled these to allow for the misting nozzle bulkheads.
The two stacks in the top of the photo, have masking tape stuck on each one, I measure each piece again and clearly write on each label the size and use of each piece (e.g. base, 442mm x 446mm) and also indicate its oreintation. 









Cutting out the arch on the door support strut. I use a template to cut these curves, this give me continuity with all the struts.









Cutting curves is not allways the easiest thing to do, sometimes it goes a little pear-shaped.









All four door struts cut, now starts the job of rubbing dow all the edges.









By rubbing (lightly sanding) down all the edges, it makes handling the glass safer and it all reduces the chance that small chip break off along the edges of the glass.



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Well now that I have finaly finished rubbing down 40 sections of glass... (Phew my hand feels like it is about to drop off)
Tomorrow night I will start to assemble the first two vivs, I would like to do all four at the same time but I just have not got enough flat working surface.

I will do my best to take photos every step of the way...



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I started to assemble the first two vivs...

Lay out the base in the correct orientation, with masking tape on all the edges where other glass edges join.









I start with the back piece first.
Apply a thin even bead of silicon sealant along the inside bottom edge of the back section of glass. 









The back pieces in place and supported by a block until I get the sides in place.









After applying a bead o silicon to the inside bottom and back edges of the side pieces, they are put in place and the tape drawn up and around.
At this tage I only place one of the sides.









I first install the inside retaining lip and the door stut.
I find this easier aqnd cleaner, than trying to wedge them in after both sides are in place.









Now the other side is siliconed into place.

















I then silicon the two top pieces in place, first the narrow strip at the back and then the larger pieces withe the misting holes in the front.
This leaves a gap wich is where the top vent is.










Stage one complete, these are left to dry for 24 hours before I move them to build the other two vivs.
It took my just short of a hour to assemble both from , base to this point...


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## kebpts (May 2, 2008)

I am very interested in your technique. I have read both this thread and the other with the computer drawings. I am looking forward to see here, or on the other thread, the way you attach your doors.

Also, what thickness of glass are you using?


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## markbudde (Jan 4, 2008)

Please keep this thread updated as you make progress. This info is incredibly valuable.
I'm still a little unclear about how you cut the round pieces. Did you just score it and break it?
Thanks,
Mark


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## hexentanz (Sep 18, 2008)

Most European tank designs have been updated lately to just a rectangular piece of glass instead of arched design, due to ease of cleaning. Though personally I never found any difference in the two designs, for me they are both easy to clean.


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## roberthvalera (Jun 9, 2006)

How thick is the glass? Are you putting the side pieces on top of or to the side of the bottom piece off glass? I prefer the arches as they give more support to the door. Thanks for this. 
Robert


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## Darryl (Dec 2, 2005)

Thank you for your comments.
I am glad that you are finding that bothe these post are useful and interesting.
Thank you.



kebpts said:


> I am very interested in your technique. I have read both this thread and the other with the computer drawings. I am looking forward to see here, or on the other thread, the way you attach your doors.
> 
> Also, what thickness of glass are you using?


Everybody wants me to get to the section about the doors...  
I use 4mm(3/16") plate glass, but I do use heavier glass if I build bigger vivs, say 900mm(3') or more.





markbudde said:


> Please keep this thread updated as you make progress. This info is incredibly valuable.
> I'm still a little unclear about how you cut the round pieces. Did you just score it and break it?


I use a template to guide the cutter as I score the glass. Then I tap out the unwanted section, after which I use a small pollishing wheel on a "Dremmel" to clean up the edge.





hexentanz said:


> Most European tank designs have been updated lately to just a rectangular piece of glass instead of arched design, due to ease of cleaning. Though personally I never found any difference in the two designs, for me they are both easy to clean.


Yes, some of the european vivs simply use a rectangular section of glass, but this was more to do with ease of production, but recently it has been found that these retangular sections cannot support the wheight of the doors and slowly sag.
I use the arch as this alows support all the way to the base and I think it looks a lot more profesionalble.

As for cleaning, if the arch is the correct size,cleaning is not a issue. 





roberthvalera said:


> Are you putting the side pieces on top of or to the side of the bottom piece off glass?


I construct my vivs with the sides pieces on the side of the base. this is done so that the side pieces do not transfer all their weight down onto the outer edges of the base, thereby causing unwanted stresses in the base.


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## Darryl (Dec 2, 2005)

After stripping all the tape from the vivs, i measured the width of the door strut and the retaining lip to determin the width of the Stainless steel mesh for the front vent.

I use masking tape to cover the mesh before I mark it up and cut it.
The tape make it a lot easier to mark and cut. It also reduces the fine splinter, when cutting the mesh.









After I have cut each section I check if any adjustments have to be made, only then do I remove the tape.









Final cut mesh in place.









x2 "L" profile sections are siliconed over the edges to hold and bed the vent in place.









The bottom "E" profile door slide siliconed on top of the front "L" profile.









The top "E" profile siliconed under the top front of the viv. This top profile is twice the depth of the bottom section. this allows you to lift the doors in and out of the track.









These are the small cut-out made in the corners of the top vent SS mesh.









See how fine and neat cut can be made with masking tape on the mesh.









The top mesh cut to size and siliconed in place. Note the two short sections of "L" profile silconed over the ends of the mesh.
These both secure and tidy up the edges.
The strips of masking tape are placed under the vent to stop any sagging and support the mesh until the ends are cured.
The long edges of the top vents will be secured at a later stage.









At this point the siliconed vents are left to cure.


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## Darryl (Dec 2, 2005)

After I let the silicon cure on the vents, I proceeded to secure the two long edges of the top vent.

I cut two strips of 2mm thick glass, 15mm wide. These strips are long enough to fit inside the top of the viv, along the length of the vent.
These strips were then siliconed over the long egdes of the SS mesh. this seels the edges and make the top vent neater.

I took a couple of photos at this point but the images came out blurred. (Sob...Sob...  )

At the same time I cut two sections of bottom "E" profile track, to fit up the side between the top and bottom track. These will capture the ends of the sliding doorsand stop the ends of the gass door hitting the glass sides.










I calculate the width of the sliding door, taking the total viv width and diving this by 2. If you now add 5mm to this (half) measurement, you will have the width of each door. The addition of these extra few mm of each door, results in the small over lap in the centre.

The height of the doors are determined by measuring, the distance between the top and bottom tracks. Then measure the depth of the top track, subtract 2mm. Add these together, to give you the toptal height of the doors.

The deductiom of 2mm is to allow just enough clearance when the dorrs are put into the track.


The four completed vivs:


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## Darryl (Dec 2, 2005)

From this :













To this:










The two vivs at the bottom


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## ab1502 (Jun 27, 2007)

what do you do to the two short sides of the bottom vent to prevent the metal from poking the inhabitants, or from curling up allowing FF escapees.


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## thetattooedone (Mar 26, 2007)

Awsome! Great build journal. 

Brent


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## Energy (Jul 17, 2009)

Very nice. Thanks for documenting it!


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## Darryl (Dec 2, 2005)

ab1502 said:


> what do you do to the two short sides of the bottom vent to prevent the metal from poking the inhabitants, or from curling up allowing FF escapees.



I run a beead of silicon at each end, this bith seat the ends and seals them.

This can be seen the the photo below:


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## tachikoma (Apr 16, 2009)

Darryl said:


> I run a beead of silicon at each end, this bith seat the ends and seals them.





Why doesn't anyone use fiberglass screen? It won't rust, it's not sharp, doesn't dent, soft, and last forever. I have used this on all of my viv's and never had a problem. Is there something I am missing?


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## DrawntoLife (Nov 12, 2009)

Mind sharing your glass supplier and prices for a 1cm thick and 30x30 sheet? estimated


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## sbreland (May 4, 2006)

DrawntoLife said:


> Mind sharing your glass supplier and prices for a 1cm thick and 30x30 sheet? estimated


Doubt it will do you much good since he is in London... that is, unless you're in England too.


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## Darryl (Dec 2, 2005)

tachikoma said:


> Why doesn't anyone use fiberglass screen? It won't rust, it's not sharp, doesn't dent, soft, and last forever. I have used this on all of my viv's and never had a problem. Is there something I am missing?


Hi tachikoma,

The main reason that I use Stainless steel mesh over Fibreglass is that I have found that crickets have in the past chewed through fibreglass mesh.

Stainless mesh also is manufactured in a fine weave than fibreglass and depending on the quality and quantity, stainless mesh work out cheaper for me.

Additionally I find working stainless mesh easier.

I hope this helps.


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## Boondoggle (Dec 9, 2007)

Holy resurrected threads, Batman!

Well since its alive again, I might as well ask. Do you ever have trouble getting the glass cut to acceptable tolerances? For a project like this, what are acceptable tolerances?


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## Darryl (Dec 2, 2005)

I have always allowed a tolarance of approx 1mm (3/64") on each edge of cut glass, so the the most is about 2mm (6/64") on any single plane or aspect.

Due to the natue of silicon sealer and the sequence of assembly, this small tolerance can be corrected.

If you have a good glazier and a decent glass cutter is used, there is no reason why glass cannot be cut to the correct size.

It is very important to always measure twice before cutting and that all squares and straight edges are true.


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## davejenkins (Feb 14, 2011)

Brill posting nice and easy to follow, can i ask what size holes do you predrill for misting and draining and what do you use to drill them with ?
Many thanks 
Dave


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