# DIY high intensity lighting



## Rain_Frog (Apr 27, 2004)

Guys, got any places were I might be able to order ballasts that I can use to construct "my own" light fixture? I just retrofitted my 10 gallon light strip today with AH supply's cf, and after a lot of frustration, got it to work, and actually realized how much fun and how much I save! 8) 

For my giant clawed frog tank in the basement, I would like good lighting for the plants in the sump above and the anubias that will grow in the water. Same goes for the saltwater tank I plan to use the old clawed frog tank for......hehehe, yeah, this vivarium stuff is addictive.

Obviously, the "beast" light, 96 watt will still not be enough in my opinion, or at least a single one. But that would be 200 bucks there for two fixtures. 

I am also going to put power compacts over my DIY mantella and tricolor tank. Its roughly a 40 gallon (really 20, as its two tanks in one), and if I add the prices for all the tanks (I may retrofit my firebellied cage too sometime) that's gonna be way too much green stuff, and not enough for the "living" green stuff that I would have to buy later on. Got any places were I can order separate ballast, the plug in cord, socket for cf, etc.? 

Also, any ideas how to make a DIY metal halide fixture? I've heard of some weed smoking people doing (and not to make anybody suspicious) :lol: I would like to try it and see maybe I can grow water lilies in the aquarium in the basement, if its not too hard to do.

Those metal halides are way too expensive to order.


----------



## Dancing frogs (Feb 20, 2004)

I've found really good deals on all types of high intensity lighting on ebay.
You can find anything from bare ballasts, to complete kits.


----------



## TimsViv (Feb 16, 2004)

An inexpensive way to get more lighting out of standard flourscents is to "Overdrive" the lights.

In brief you would use an electronic ballast, that would normally drive two flourscent tubes, and wire it to drive just one flourscent tube. You don't double the light output, but probably get a 50% increase.

Here's a link to a thread that goes into more specifics - http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?t=175

Tim


----------



## FCA (Oct 7, 2004)

I will be selling metal halide lighting on my website very soon. I will offer DIY kits, retrofit kits, and individual parts. The sizes I will have available are 70W and 150W HQI and 250W mogul base. I am working on getting some nice pendants fabricated as well. I offer bulbs, but they might be too high in color temp for plants, however I will see if I can get lower kelvin bulbs. Right now I only have 10,000k and 20,000k, you're probably looking for something around 6500k. The HQI ballasts are electronic so they are much more energy efficient that the core and coil. The 250W is core and coil, but is much cheaper. If you want, I can get you a price on just the ballast if you let me know what size you are looking for.

Paul
http://www.firstclassaquatics.com


----------



## Dancing frogs (Feb 20, 2004)

I use a 70w Iwasaki eye 6500K (medium base) on my 37 gallon phelsuma tank. This bulb has A CRI in the 90's, it is a little blue for my taste, they also carry a 4500K, and a 3500K, these also have a high CRI, (96 I believe!), I think I might try the 4500k when I need to replace the bulb. It would make things alot easier if you could see the light in person, instead of ordering and hoping.
I run this bulb off of an electronic ballast I bought on ebay, I think it was under fifty bucks!


----------



## Guest (Oct 17, 2004)

70W metal halide? There you go again Paul, spending my tax return


----------



## FCA (Oct 7, 2004)

Yes, I am going to find out if the ballest will run single ended bulbs as well as DE, and what color temp I can get. I'll let you know


----------



## Rain_Frog (Apr 27, 2004)

yeah. If I can get some decent metal halides I can definitely try to grow tropical water lilies in my Xenopus tank. Other than that, I just need decent lighting for my other tanks, considering I like to have orchids and other flowering plants in there.

I tried my 10,000 K on my tinc tank, and its pretty bright, like a camera flash. Its a little blue, but enhances my tinc's green, blue, and gold appearance.


----------



## FCA (Oct 7, 2004)

I can get medium base 4000k 100, 150, and 175W metal halide that runs on a magnetic ballast. I am waiting on info for the Venture 6500k bulb too. I am also looking into selling power compact lighting.

Anything else I should look into? Most of this stuff is for the reef keepers, but it's easy to just add a different color temp bulb to the existing setups. The lower color temp is usually cheaper, so I can create some lower cost retrofit kits for you guys.

Paul


----------



## Scott (Feb 17, 2004)

Before you "overdrive this" or "supersize that"... I'd recommend that folks using standard (as in T10) flourescent shop lights try the T8 Shop lights.

They have an electric ballest. Supposedly use a bit less electricity *and* produce 50% more light!

The added bonus is the lights themselves do not break down nearly as often as the cheap shop lights.

Cost a little more but so worth it.

s


----------



## Rain_Frog (Apr 27, 2004)

anybody ordered from http://www.1000bulbs.com?

This place sells all sorts of ballasts, including metal halides. However, I have not found a ballast there that is 96 watt for cf. 

How about hellolights.com?

Even though they are more for reef keeping, if you're a big plant person(I've got a collection of over 30 types of carnivorous plants, and a growing orchid collection), just normal "pothos" and "philodendron" just isn't enough. 

Many of the plants available in the hobby for freshwater aquaria are too fragile for xenopus laevis, but they are naturally found with water lilies, irises, arums, anubias, etc. which are very sturdy but require huge light output.


----------



## Rain_Frog (Apr 27, 2004)

about reflectors, can one just use a standard piece of wood and paint it white with latex paint? Or, will it cause the paint to burn, off gas lead, etc.?


----------



## Dancing frogs (Feb 20, 2004)

I made the reflector for my hex (screw in cf's) out of wood, and painted it with white enamel, and have had no trouble with it. I don't think latex would hold up too well.


----------



## FCA (Oct 7, 2004)

I used glossy white enamel paint in the hood for my reef tank. It has four 95W VHO bulbs and has been fine for years. Your best reflector is going to be a polished aluminum type though.


----------



## Guest (Oct 19, 2004)

check out http://www.marinedepot.com/homepage.asp

and look at their lighting section under PFO retrofits and componets. I've purchased from them many times when I was running reef tanks. THe PFO ballasts always ran very well for me and i never had any problems with them at all. you can get a 175 watt ballast, spyder reflector w/ socket and 5500k bulb for like $180. of course they offer other ballasts and bulbs but it might give you an idea of a starting point. 

Of course Paul might be able to put together a cheaper system. 


Matt


----------



## FCA (Oct 7, 2004)

Yeah, I can do 250W retro fit systems for cheaper than that. Once we get a few more items and prices figured out, I will post a link to my lighting page. I am just a sales point for my business partner, all lighting will be shipped from his place in Florida. I just handle the advertising and web promotion.  

Oh, and all of our lighting has free shipping, always!


----------



## Guest (Oct 19, 2004)

paul,

thats a nice thing to offer...those ballasts are not light and Marine Depot and alot of other places charge extra to ship them. 

Matt


----------



## geckguy (Mar 8, 2004)

Homedepot has high pressure sodiums and metal halides, which are both good for growing plants. The halide is better for growing due to the "blue light" it emits, high pressure sodiums are better for flowering plants due to the red spectrum it puts out. Last time I checked homedepot had 70w, and 150w metal halide and hps lights in the security lighting section. Here is a link for one of homedepots metal halides, 
http://makeashorterlink.com/?C60A21199


----------



## Ryan (Feb 18, 2004)

Whats halogen lighting, is it the same as metal halide?

Sorry, I am clueless when it comes to this stuff.
Ryan


----------



## Mantellaprince20 (Aug 25, 2004)

Has anyone thought of trying VHO lighting? I usually see ballasts, and bulbs on ebay for this. I am going to run 4 - 36 in vho bulbs on my reef aquarium. They have a, well, very high output. Very intense, and much cooler than metal halide. Only problem is the bulbs don't last real long, but you can get them for under $15 per bulb. I have thought about running 24 inchers over my frogs, but haven't done it yet. Soon though. Let me know what you think about this. They are very simple to wire also. 

Ed


----------



## geckguy (Mar 8, 2004)

Halogens dont produce light condusive to growing plants.
Mantellaprince arent vho lights, just fluorescent tubes with a reflective backing on them so more light is reflected out one side, so you dont loose much light, I sometimes attach aluminum duct tape to the rear of the bulbs, so all the light is refelected out the front, just keep it about an inch from the edges because it gets hot there and the tape may peel off.


----------



## FCA (Oct 7, 2004)

No, VHO is much different from HO and NO bulbs. And if you are running an electronic ballast they only need to be changed every 2 years. I am pretty good friends with the owner of Icecap and they have done extensive testing with VHO bulbs and their electronic ballasts. They only recommend bulb changes every 24 months. Just about every VHO bulb you find already has an internal reflector as well.


----------



## Mantellaprince20 (Aug 25, 2004)

VHO has a much higher output than regular flourescent, not to mention that the 36 inch alone is a 96 watt (ithink) bulb. I think they are worth a shot. I will let you all know how my reef tank lighting goes, should be done in the next month if I get the time. If it can keep coral and anemones alive, then I am sure it is great for plants also. 

Ed


----------



## FCA (Oct 7, 2004)

Mantellaprince20 said:


> VHO has a much higher output than regular flourescent, not to mention that the 36 inch alone is a 96 watt (ithink) bulb. I think they are worth a shot. I will let you all know how my reef tank lighting goes, should be done in the next month if I get the time. If it can keep coral and anemones alive, then I am sure it is great for plants also.
> 
> Ed


36" VHO are 95 watts. I have 4 of them over my reef tank.  

if you have any questions about the setup, let me know. I'll be happy to help you out. What kind of ballast are you running them off of?


----------



## FCA (Oct 7, 2004)

outlawvizsla said:


> paul,
> 
> thats a nice thing to offer...those ballasts are not light and Marine Depot and alot of other places charge extra to ship them.
> 
> Matt


Here it is. Just went live this morning!

http://www.firstclassaquatics.com/catalog_lights.htm


----------



## bbrock (May 20, 2004)

geckguy said:


> Halogens dont produce light condusive to growing plants.
> 
> 
> > I disagree. Photosynthesis occurs with light pretty much across the visible light spectrum and slightly beyond with the exception of green wavelengths. Therefore about any light source that is visible to the human eye and of sufficient intensity will grow plants. Some halogens produce a nice bright, white light and I've heard of people using them successfully in vivs. The big problem is the heat, of course, which will tend to shut down photosynthesis no matter what the quality of light is.


----------



## FCA (Oct 7, 2004)

Halogen lights are around 4000k, which if you look at a true "white" light first (6500K) will look very yellow. When I look at my reef tank for any amount of time (avg 10,000k) and then look anywhere in my house, you can see how yellow regular incandescent lights are. Halogen is the same way becasue they are around the same color temperature. And I have to agree with the heat issue. Halogen bulbs produce a tremendous amount of heat!

I know people that are into hydroponics and indoor gardening used lights that are more towards the red spectrum, down around 3000k, because it promoted better plant growth. Mercury vapor and HPS lights work well for this. I'm sure photosynthesis occurs at any wavelength, but for optimal plant growth and health you should choose the correct bulb.

Just my $.02 :wink:


----------



## Guest (Oct 21, 2004)

I dont want to sound like a compleate novice here, but... 

Is there somewhere i can go to read about the different parts, and ballasts and how they attach to the bulb holder things, etc. 

When it come to lights and wires in general im compleately ignorant!  
If any one could hook me up with this stuff, it would be great


----------



## FCA (Oct 7, 2004)

Once you think about it they aren't all that complicated. Power comes from the outlet and goes to the ballast. The ballst is what fires and runs the bulb (whatever kind it is). Normally it takes a lot of initial amps to fire the bulb, and then it creates a constant current (whatever is requires by the bulb) to the bulb after initial fireup. This is why the ballast and bulb must be matched as they are all different. Power goes from ballast to the socket and the bulb screws or plugs into the socket. I'll see if I can find some wiring schematics for metal halide systems that might illustrate it better.

Paul


----------



## Rain_Frog (Apr 27, 2004)

i hate to say it, but I think I'm going to order from AH supply after all again, as its much cheaper than HelloLights. I don't know if I need a halide yet, I gotta keep things in budget. Keep me updated on your inventory FCA.


----------



## Dancing frogs (Feb 20, 2004)

Rain Frog, do a search on this forum for metal halide. See what others here think of them. I use one on my day gecko tank. It offers good UV and heat, though I much prefer the look (for display) of CF's or regular flourescents. The bulb I use is a 70 watt Iwasaki 6500k, with a color rendering index of 92, and it still has (I think) an unnatural tinge.
My advice; Stick to CF's, unless you have an extremely tall (over 24") tank, or need UV and Heat.


----------



## Rain_Frog (Apr 27, 2004)

the biggest problem other than cost of halides is HEAT. If I were to put one over say, a mantella or a xenopus tank WITHOUT a fan, chances are my xenopus would develop bloat or bacterial infection while my mantellas would die from HRMSS. The only reason why I'd want a halide is because the reed plants and the water lilies would need such strong lighting, if I decided to use them for my tank. It is virtually unnecessary for my tinctorius or tricolor cages though.

But once again, I am thinking of doing a saltwater aquarium and try a reef system down the road, but I would probably need a chiller IF I wanted to try halide, but I think I'd probably be best with CF to start out with.


----------



## Rain_Frog (Apr 27, 2004)

BTW, how many square feet would a metal halide 70 W provide, FCA? If I just used one for a 100 gallon, would that be sufficient enough to grow anubias, java fern, and perhaps a water lily that is placed directly under it? It surely would produce a lot less heat than higher wattage. I would need a lower kelvin bulb than a 10,000K


----------



## FCA (Oct 7, 2004)

Metal halide (at least the ones I sell) cover about a 24x24 area. Obviously, the higher the bulb is the more light spread, but you get a drastic drop off in PAR. The HQI bulbs provide a lot of UV since the bulbs do not have a shield on them, and I don't recommend using one in anything other than an appropriate pendant, or with a UV filter of some sort. Most of my MH experience is with reef tanks, so I can't comment too much on growing plants with them. But a lot of hydroponic places sell MH, HPS, and MV lighting, so it must be good.  You might want to go with a lower kelvin temp bulb though. Heat isn't equated to kelvin, but to the wattage of the bulb. For example, a 150W bulb uses the same amount of electricty regardless of what temp the bulb is, so the heat output is going to be fairly linear across the different bulbs. If heat is a concern, add a small muffin or computer fan blowing across the bulb and that will dissipate a major portion of the heat.


----------



## Rain_Frog (Apr 27, 2004)

about those floodlights by Lights of America (we discussed this a while ago), anybody know why it says not to use them around TVs or radios? They say they aren't recommended for timers, but I don't know how much I would go along with that. As far as using them for tanks, I would *think they would be safe to use as a growlight for plants, with no glass lid smack dap underneath them, able for the lights to dissapate heat. Obviously, it maybe a good idea to use a fan to keep the heat off them and to avoid burning the plants. I would like some decent lighting to grow plants in a sump above my xenopus tank.


----------



## geckguy (Mar 8, 2004)

I should of reworded my statement about halogen lighting, I meant that they werent condusive to plant growing due to the tremendous amount of heat they emit, it would fry the plants, and it wouldnt be worthwhile to cool them. I also see mercury vapor lights being mentioned, they arent the best plant lights. People into hydroponic and indoor growing use metal halide for vegging their plants, then use high pressure sodium for flowering them, as the blue wavelength the halides emit is good for vegetative growth, were as the red spectrum of the high pressure sodium lights is good for plants that are flowering.


----------



## Rain_Frog (Apr 27, 2004)

no, I'm talking about Lights of America Floodlights, Fluorex. 65 watt, 6500 K bulbs. Also have at Home Depot 6500 K 27 Watt compact fluorescent. 

People were trying them over frog or reef tanks, with them eventually burning out. I was thinking they might be better as a growlight, with plenty of height, to allow heat to disapate. But it says on their website, that these compacts "aren't recommended with timers." And, that they can interfere with radios, tvs, etc. 

Halogen is by far the WORST kind of lighting, even as a supplement. It turned my nepenthes yellowish just as a supplement.


----------



## Guest (Nov 24, 2004)

> used lights that are more towards the red spectrum, down around 3000k


Usually people switch to the red spectrum to get "plants" to flower if you know what i mean.


----------



## geckguy (Mar 8, 2004)

Rain Frog: I have one of the 65 watt lights, and I havent had a problem with it burning out, but it produces quite a bit of heat, so I would probably mount a small pc fan in the wall of the light fixture, to bring the heat up and away from the bulb. I had it over a 10 gallon vertical, no frogs in it though, and it went up to 110 degrees in a matter of minutes. I have it over my bromeliads and the fireballs stay bright red, and pup all the time. It is about a foot away. I wasnt answering you question before, I was just elaborating on why halogens are not good grow lights. I havent noticed them interfering with radios, or tvs, and it works fine on a timer for me.


----------



## Rain_Frog (Apr 27, 2004)

Cool. Today I went to Home Depot and bought those 65 watters by Lights of America. Question: How do I wire the light? Obviously, it doesn't come with a cord, so should I go out and buy a grounded extension cord, cut off the end, and then should three wires be available for me to use the wire nuts? I've never cut into an extension cord before, don't wanna waste excess money, :lol: or cause a fire!

Would you recommend just taking the plastic cover right off? There will most likely be a fogger near the plants to keep things more humid, I don't want water splashing onto the bulb.

I think I am going to drill holes into the sides so I can mount my CPU fan onto it. This will not be above glass, but about a foot or so above a bunch of plants in my basement.


----------



## geckguy (Mar 8, 2004)

I would leave the cover on, as water splashing on the bulb could crack the bulb. I bought a heavy duty cord for power tools which is the male end, and three bare wires. Just use wirenuts and match the corresponding wires to each other. Get small cpu fans, I think the ones that are a inch by an inch would work good. Make sure to have input holes so cool air can come in, it should keep it pretty cool. I think your plants will do good under them.


----------



## Homer (Feb 15, 2004)

I know of at least two people who have had the Lights of America fixtures burn out because the ballast and bulb are located so closely to one another. 

Geckguy, how do you have yours set up? Do you have any pointers on using the light (locating the ballast remotely, etc.)? How long have you been using yours?

I personally use only compact fluorescents, but I like to use systems that allow the ballasts to be located remotely to reduce the amount of heat near the enclosure.


----------



## geckguy (Mar 8, 2004)

I have the ballast mounted remotely now, but I had it run for 2 months without any problems before moving the ballast. I have used it for a total of 6 months now.


----------



## FCA (Oct 7, 2004)

I ran one of the LOA lamps over my refugium for almost 2 years. The only reason I don't use it anymore is because I knocked it into the tank while it was on! :shock:


----------



## Rain_Frog (Apr 27, 2004)

huh, heavy duty cord for power tools, never seen one before (sorry, I try!) I'm sure I'll figure out what you're talking about, I'm a smart guy, honest! :lol: 

Anyway, where did you put the ballast after you made it remotely from the original location? I would think putting it up ontop the fixture would still cause a problem with heat issues.


----------



## geckguy (Mar 8, 2004)

I mounted in a project case from radio shack and put it about a foot away from the light. The heavy duty power tool cord is located next to the other extension cords, but it only has the male part, so you dont have to cut up a extension cord.


----------



## Rain_Frog (Apr 27, 2004)

Geckguy, did send you a PM btw. Alright, I found those cords. I have a bit of a technical problem. Considering this will be indoors, there is no "junction box." No greenwire either. How do I wire only the two wire system to a grounded power cord? Do I really need it? I would say so, as my place is notorious for power outages.


----------



## Guest (Dec 7, 2004)

Earlier this summer i bought a 70W metal halide retrofit kit from Lamp Dr. on http://www.nano-reef.com classifieds for my ten gallon saltwater tank. I don't know if he's still selling them, but what comes with the kit is the ballast and socket and bulb all wired into a computer power supply box. I think i paid $140 shipped. I know he also had some 150W MH kits available.There's a lot of info on the site in the DIY section about lighting. What i did with my kit was wire the ballast into a REGENT halogen fixture and place my bulb right into that fixture and mounted it to a wood canopy. Then i didn't have to buy a reflector or UV filtered glass. It's also adjustable. That was one idea i got from the DIY section. You might want to check it out.


----------



## FCA (Oct 7, 2004)

I sell his lighting on my site now. He does all his sales through me, but I think his actual site is still online.

http://www.firstclassaquatics.com/lights.htm

All prices are what you pay to your door. Shipping is free!


----------



## Moe (Feb 15, 2004)

Hey, those are good prices for MH from what ive seen from other sites.

But why is the 150W more expensive than 250. Both are same brand.

M.N


----------



## Guest (Dec 8, 2004)

Yeah, those are exactly what i have. I can put in a good word for the product. I was very happy with the whole transaction and with the lights it works very well. The lights shipped fast and were packaged nicely. Definitely a recommended buy.


----------



## FCA (Oct 7, 2004)

Moe said:


> Hey, those are good prices for MH from what ive seen from other sites.
> 
> But why is the 150W more expensive than 250. Both are same brand.
> 
> M.N


The 150 is a double ended HQI and the 250 is a single ended mogul base. Different types of metal halide.


----------



## Rain_Frog (Apr 27, 2004)

damn, today I witnessed a light burn out today, my 13 watt cf retrofit kit by Ahsupply. I tried putting another bulb in, and nothing happened. I really think I shorted out the ballast, as the bulb that "burned" out still worked in the other socket. I never put any fans in, just drilled the sides of the light strip. Anybody else have this happen to them?

And, I got my floodlight wired, it just isn't grounded. I don't think I'm gonna worry about it.

BTW, anybody ever try those Regent brand compact fluorescent outdoor lights? They are only $12, and produce 27 watts of 6500K.


----------



## dmartin72 (Oct 27, 2004)

I've had my 13 watt CF from AHsupply for over 5 years and it's still going strong! You should contact the guy (his name escapes me) if it was a recent purchase because he is very good about replacing bad ballasts.


----------



## Rain_Frog (Apr 27, 2004)

Thing is, I just got a NEW 55 watt bulb from them, as it was shipped damaged. I think I'll wait a while, so nobody thinks I am stealing...perhaps I should just send it in anyway?

Was this a retrofit kit you're talking about? I never hooked up a fan to my light strip.


----------



## dmartin72 (Oct 27, 2004)

I have bought the 13 watt, 55 watt & 96 watt kits from him. All of them still work! I would just call him a tell him about both. Yes it was the 10 gallon set-up with 2 x 13 watt CFs.


----------



## Rain_Frog (Apr 27, 2004)

http://www.aquarium-lighting-guide.com/directory/diy_projects.php

Dude, check this out! Metal halide under 100 bucks! This method takes an Iwasaki bulb and runs it on a mercury vapor ballast. Don't know how energy efficient that is, I would think it wouldnt' be as efficient as an Ice cap ballast.


----------

