# looking for a good, reliable waterfall / drip wall pump



## cin_cindi (Apr 15, 2010)

I thought a Repti Flo 100 would pump water up about 12 inches and be sufficient to supply a drip line, since it supposed to run an 8" waterfall, but it's not - any recommendations on decent, reliable pumps? I'm constructing a new 45g and want to mkae sure my pump will run.
 Thanks


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## cin_cindi (Apr 15, 2010)

Anyone???

I want an in-tank pump, preferable with filter system included. Anyone use the Repti-flo 350?


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## Xan Stepp (Aug 17, 2009)

I've had bad luck with the Repti-flo pumps. They seem to have lots of maintenance problems, and never seem to pump to the specified height. For what it's worth, I've been pleased with the Mini Jet 404.


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## Dendro Dave (Aug 2, 2005)

I actually just ordered 2 of these the other day along with the lil pre-filter...

Aqua lifter...lifts water, these are supposed to work really well for lifting water a couple feet for drip walls, and waterfalls, or overflow tanks.
Tom Aquatics Aqua-Lifter Dosing Pump

Here is a little pre-filter that attaches to the aquarium tubing to extend the life of pump and stop bits and pieces getting sucked up. 
Tom Aquatics Aqua Lifter Suction Pre-Filter

The filter isnt for fish and stuff, its just to protect the pump, so this system may not be what you want, but as i understand it people also use these to prime the pump on aquarium filters. So you might be able to rig it to help an under powered pump do better. My experiece with some filter systems is that they work better in deeper water. Like if you try to get a standard aqaurium filter to suck water when its only 5 inches deep it might not...but u fill the tank up and the extra pressure is enough for it to do its job.

I dont usually run a filter in my water sections. The way i usually make mine is build a false bottom, section off a corner or area with drift wood...seal the wood in place while also attaching it to the false bottom, actually it should rise an inch or so atleast above the false bottom so it makes a lip/wall that you can pile your substrate against. Then take a coat hanger or something thin and poke a hole or 2 thru the foam at the bottom of tank to facilitate water exchange from the false bottom into the pond area.(gravel will cover this very small hole so tads dont get under false bottom, its important to seal the wood everywhere up to the false bottom to prevent this also...but dont seal the entire back of the wood, u want water to be able to soak in and pass through) Though the water will soak through the wood eventually anyways even if you dont make the holes.

Add gravel, and some easy aquatic plants, like java fern and some others...and the drift wood acts kinda like a biological filter providing an area for good bacteria to grow and the plants help filter the water also. The roots from terrestrial plants that extend into the false bottom also help with filtration. Add a small waterfall or even just an air pump with the line hidden under substrate or rocks, and the water stays oxygen rich. There are all kinda of variations on this method...the corner method is just one easy way of putting this principle into use. it can be done in more complex ways to have a waterfall running down back of tank into pond or even a stream that does the same and stuff like that. 

This allows a small pond of say 4 inches by 8 inches and 2 inches deep to to actually support a small fish, as long as its a hardy species. Small guppies have worked in small ponds like that for me, and neons and similar species in larger ponds with no actual filter. In slightly bigger ponds then i described you can do a larger fish like a betta.

A system like this has the advantage of even though the actual visible pond is small and/or shallow the total reservior of water is whats visible + all the water under the false bottom. So evaporation occurs much much slower. A 2 inch deep pond thats only 8-10 square inches of surface area can go weeks with out needing to be topped off in a well sealed tank. (though some airflow is good for the tank, finding the balance is the trick)

The one draw back to this system is its very hard to keep the water from getting tea colored unless you are very good about getting all the tannins out of everything you can. I personally like my water slightly tea colored...its looks more natural.

But the best way to keep the water as clear as possible other then removing as many of the tannins as possible prior to the build is First to top off the pond by pouring water directly into it- NOT over misting or topping off the water by pouring it over the substrate and allowing it to seep through. A decent misting will be soaked up by the plants and substrate before much if any water actually drips into the false bottom. If your tank is so wet that alot of water drips into the false bottom through the ground you have over misted/saturated your tank. None of my tanks are drilled, and I've never flooded a tank on accident using this system, while still maintaining high humidity levels.

If the water does get to tea colored for your taste one way to reverse the problem its too suck out all the water containing the leached tannins and replace it with fresh water...the more times you do this the water will get progressively clearer...having a pond like this also provides an easy way to drain an over filled false bottom.

I have a feeling alot of people do this to their tanks, and its one reason they have persistant mold problems along with( lack of airflow being another) and their plants and possibly their animals suffer for it. Also they drown microfauna in doing so. In my system the substrate will get fairly wet in the area right near the pond shore but even in a 10gal tank with a pond like i described this does not cause the entire tank to become saturated. In fact its still dry enough to grow terrestial mosses right at the shore edge usually. but small marginal plants/bog plants are another good choice to plant in that area and add to the appeal of the tank.

Here are some of my vivs i've done this way. Every one has proven capable of sustaining one small fish or even tads  Infact i dont even feed the fish usually...they just eat springtails and fruitflies that fall into the water, along with whatever suitable microfauna the pond supports.

10gal, with the false bottom lit to show what i've been rambling about 









My 75, had a betta in there forever that I never fed...









Here is a construction pic of the 75. Its actually 2 parallel false bottoms with the empty space making the pond. Water passes through both false bottoms to fill the pond in middle. Pond needs topped off very rarely.That is the top of an ex larg exoterra waterfall suspended over the pond with pump dangling into water. Guts hidden by drift wood as u can see...base used as water dish for my fox now 









Even used this method in my 40gal desert viv...









My 30cube...this pond will actually sustain a small guppy or similar fish (if you can find something thats capable of breathing air that increases their chance of doing well)









And finally the first viv I ever made (46gal bowfront)after its most recent remodel...I neglected it, so its about to get another remodel) I used to have an external turtle filter for this one but if i let the water get to shallow it cudnt pull the height of this tank. As long as i kept the pond topped off though it worked ok. But it was a hassle so I just got rid of it and never noticed a difference in fish survival rates.
Filter used...(suction cups or whatever were not strong enough to hold this filter on the tank, u need a nearby shelf or will probably have to jerry rig something up to get it to hang securely)
Terrarium Pumps and Filters: Zoo Med Turtle Filters at Drs. Foster and Smith
Check some of the other pumps their also, they may work for you...
Reptile Terrarium Pumps & Filters - Submersible Tank Filters & Micro Pumps for Reptiles
And finally the actual tank  (This tank has no true false bottom, it is a true paludarium as there is no seperation between land and water...Its been up 5-6 years)


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## cin_cindi (Apr 15, 2010)

WOW! Now that's what I call a reply! Thanks, I'll have to re-read it to make sure I caught everything.


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