# Mini Orchid List ?



## Krenshaw22 (Apr 21, 2011)

Ok guys, I'm thinking about creating a mini orchid tank with a 29 gallon tank. My question is will all the species work and will all of them fit perfectly in here.

Orchids:
Epidendrum porpax
Hoya curtisii
Sacrochilus hartmanni
Hoya lacunosa 
Hoya bella
Phymatidium falcifolium
Phymatidium tillandsioides
Cattleya luteola
Sophronitis cernaa
Leptotes bicolor
Macodes petola

Broms:
Neoregelia fireball
Neoregelia Zoe

Will everything fit perfectly and all be mounted without chocking each other out when full grown?
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## Sammie (Oct 12, 2009)

It's hard to say if it will be crowded or not, I guess it depends on how you plant it. Also i have no idea of how big/small a 29 gallon is
I don't think _Macodes petola_ would be considered a "mini orchid" though, since it gets somewhat big.
Also _Hoya sp._ are not orchids.


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## therizman2 (Jul 20, 2008)

Both of those broms can get pretty large, but those jewel orchids need shade, so that might work. It will def. be a very full tank. Also, remember that those Hoyas like it on the dry side as well.


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## candm519 (Oct 15, 2006)

Another source of information:

Orchid Board - Most Complete Orchid Forum on the web !


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## Spaff (Jan 8, 2011)

I would say that you have chosen orchids with a few different needs for this tank. It's definitely doable, but you're going to have to think the placement of each through. The following are my experience with most of the plants:

*Epi. porpax*- This one's pretty easy. Keep it moist, mounted, and decent light

*S. hartmanni*- I've tried this a few times, and I think it wants to be a bit cooler at night than I can provide. Mine never bloomed, and I eventually lost them. These are lithophytes in nature, so they grow in very fast draining media and are probably exposed to a decent (a little more than closely related Phals.) amount of light.

*Phymatidium*- I've never grown this, but I really like it! A quick search shows that this is grown cool by most people (55-50F for night lows) in Pleurothallid light and water. Watch out, though. If you do decide to get this one, only buy one or the other. The two species you listed are synonyms for one another 

*Cattleya, Sophronitis, Leptotes*- All of these are in the same family, so I've lumped them into the same category. These require relatively bright light and generally like to dry out a little between waterings. My advice is to mount them high in the tank in an area with good air circulation and watch the roots to determine a watering schedule. I know for a fact the Soph. and Leptotes have been successfully grown in vivs before. 

*Macodes petola*- This one is terrestrial, so I would plant it in something moist but well-draining. Plant this one on the floor of the tank with low light.

Hopefully, this helps a little!


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## Krenshaw22 (Apr 21, 2011)

therizman2 said:


> Both of those broms can get pretty large, but those jewel orchids need shade, so that might work. It will def. be a very full tank. Also, remember that those Hoyas like it on the dry side as well.


I'm not gonna get the house, and I have 3 neo. Zoe in my 20 long they aren't huge in my opinion and are pupping. But thank you.

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## andersonii85 (Feb 8, 2004)

Some thoughts:

I grow a whole assortment of orchids with differing needs in one setup. It can be done, but you must be meticulous to details. I have been far more successful with larger terrariums than smaller ones when attempting this. Understanding the various microclimates in the tank is crucial. Keep detailed records of the thermal gradient in the setup. Keep in mind the seasonal fluctuations. I'll give you an example: I've grown a few Porroglossum's that were I-C and was able to keep them alive during the coldest parts of the year. However, in the summer they just couldn't take the 7 degree change in temperature that occurred in the terrarium. Try to keep with plants that will grow well in your conditions. 

I'm currently growing both Sophronitis cernua and Cattleya luteola in a 55 gallon terrarium along with various Pleurothallids including Lepanthes. Spaff was right on. They both need to dry out rather quickly. I highly recommend the use of fans. I tried the Cattleya with passive flow and it lost roots rather quickly despite being placed in the driest part of the setup. 

They both like it bright, but you don't need as much light as you would think. I use a single 96 watt pcf bulb over this terrarium. I had to move the Sophronitis several times lower on the branch in which I had it mounted because it was getting scorched. 

Make sure to do all of your watering in the morning since it will give them time to dry out.


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## Krenshaw22 (Apr 21, 2011)

candm519 said:


> Another source of information:
> 
> Orchid Board - Most Complete Orchid Forum on the web !


Thanks for the link I will use it.

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## Krenshaw22 (Apr 21, 2011)

Spaff said:


> I would say that you have chosen orchids with a few different needs for this tank. It's definitely doable, but you're going to have to think the placement of each through. The following are my experience with most of the plants:
> 
> *Epi. porpax*- This one's pretty easy. Keep it moist, mounted, and decent light
> 
> ...


This does help a lot thank you.

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## Krenshaw22 (Apr 21, 2011)

andersonii85 said:


> Some thoughts:
> 
> I grow a whole assortment of orchids with differing needs in one setup. It can be done, but you must be meticulous to details. I have been far more successful with larger terrariums than smaller ones when attempting this. Understanding the various microclimates in the tank is crucial. Keep detailed records of the thermal gradient in the setup. Keep in mind the seasonal fluctuations. I'll give you an example: I've grown a few Porroglossum's that were I-C and was able to keep them alive during the coldest parts of the year. However, in the summer they just couldn't take the 7 degree change in temperature that occurred in the terrarium. Try to keep with plants that will grow well in your conditions.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the heed up.

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## Krenshaw22 (Apr 21, 2011)

Let's narrow this list down to the more viv suitable and/or replace the non suitable ones with other better choices can you guys help with that. I haven't decided if I wanna do darts or pygmy chamelions yet.

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## Spaff (Jan 8, 2011)

I would look into the I-W growing Pleurothallids, mostly from the following genera: Pleurothallis, Restrepia, Scaphosepalum, and a few from Trichosalpinx, Masdevallia, Dracula, and Lepanthes. Also look into the smaller growing Bulbophyllums. These plants seem to flourish in the high humidity of vivs.


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## Krenshaw22 (Apr 21, 2011)

I actully have a family member who raises orchids who is gonna actully help me out, score for me lol. :b
She has some viv friendly orchids. 
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## Groundhog (Dec 17, 2006)

Hey guys:

If he is going to do pygmy chameleons, why not some angraecoids (Aerangis, Angraecum, etc.)? Most are from Africa, Indian ocean, some in SE Asia; 
I run my tanks warmer than PDF tanks, and angraecoids are the long-term champs for me. For most, the flower is a six-point white or off-white star. Very pretty. 

I have had success with:

_Aerangis fastusoa
Angraecum didieri
Angraecum distichum_

There are other small-growing angraecoids, and many seem tough in herp setups. (Alas, Charles Darwin's famous "moth" orchid, _Angraecum sesquipedale_, gets fairly big). These like to be fairly moist, and Aerangis seem to prefer more light (many Angraecum sp. like it shady). Some growers recommend cork rather than tree fern, as these orchids can be sensitive to accumulated salts.

One thing though--they are slooowww.... As such, they can be a bit pricey, usually >$20. But if grown well, many of these seem quite long-lived. 

Of course, for ALL the orchids discussed so far, check out 

Internet Orchid Species Photo Encyclopedia


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## Krenshaw22 (Apr 21, 2011)

Groundhog said:


> Hey guys:
> 
> If he is going to do pygmy chameleons, why not some angraecoids (Aerangis, Angraecum, etc.)? Most are from Africa, Indian ocean, some in SE Asia;
> I run my tanks warmer than PDF tanks, and angraecoids are the long-term champs for me. For most, the flower is a six-point white or off-white star. Very pretty.
> ...


It's gonna be darts I forgot to update actually gonna be Oophaga pumilio 'Bluejeans' gonna break the orchids up with some broms. It's gonna be a 20 gallon vert.


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## Sammie (Oct 12, 2009)

_Bulbophyllum cernuum_ is really cool, and a true miniature. I can also recommend _Masdevallia minuta_, a new favotite of mine


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## Krenshaw22 (Apr 21, 2011)

Saccolabiopsis tenella has anyone tried this species? It's being sent when my aunt sends the group I only know of two species that she is sending at the moment.
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## Spaff (Jan 8, 2011)

Sammie said:


> _Bulbophyllum cernuum_ is really cool, and a true miniature. I can also recommend _Masdevallia minuta_, a new favotite of mine


I agree _B. cernuum_ is an awesome mini species. It's pretty easy to grow but finding one is another story.



Krenshaw22 said:


> Saccolabiopsis tenella has anyone tried this species? It's being sent when my aunt sends the group I only know of two species that she is sending at the moment.
> Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk 2


I just looked this one up and it isn't listed in IOSPE. I did find a discussion that suggests this was mislabeled when it entered the country and is actually _Stereochilus dalatensis_. If that's the case with your plant, I would grow it in intermediate temps (80-55F), bright light, mounted, and watered frequently. Both of the possible genera are Vandaceous and come from Asia, so the culture should be similar regardless of the ID.


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## SteveR (Jul 26, 2012)

Nice thread. *subscribed*.

Im going to be looking for some mini orchids in a few weeks.. appreciate the information.


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## Krenshaw22 (Apr 21, 2011)

Ok guys Liparis gibbosa I've seen this one posted a few times where would be best placement for it ? 

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## Krenshaw22 (Apr 21, 2011)

Ok guys I know this list is a lot different but this is all the free orchids I will be receiving will they work out?
Cleiastoma subulatum 
den loddegessii 
sarcolabiopsis tenella
den pieridii
Eriaqqa maingaya
cleistoma discolor
Bulbo purpurascens.
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## Krenshaw22 (Apr 21, 2011)

Anyone? I'm not really having luck on info about these plants in vivaria.

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## Spaff (Jan 8, 2011)

In general, Cleisostoma get long and viney for me. They also tend to like a good bit of light. Dendrobium loddigessi requires a cooler, drier winter to grow well. I have one that is in a slow decline because I've neglected the dry winter requirement to this point. I commented on the Saccolabiopsis earlier. It should work, but I've never grown it to say for sure. Den. pierardii is another Den. that needs the dry winter and will get way too big for a normal sized viv. Eria maingayi sounds like it could work, but I haven't ever heard of this plant prior to looking it up just now. The Bulbophyllum will work for sure. It's small, likes low to medium light and enjoys moisture.


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## Krenshaw22 (Apr 21, 2011)

Ik thank you I actually was hoping the viney one would will work. And a lot of these have little info. My cousin she is hooking me up with them and the ones who aren't suitable will color up my room lol . Thank you for the help again 

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## Spaff (Jan 8, 2011)

The Cleisostoma may work. It likes conditions similar to vivs as long as you have air movement, but the ones I have get big. It may do well for a while, while it's small at least.


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## Krenshaw22 (Apr 21, 2011)

I have a good size screen to allow air flow and I'm always working with my tanks, ill be sure to watch it.

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## Krenshaw22 (Apr 21, 2011)

Orchids arrived today.

Liparis gibbosa










Cleiastoma subulatum 










Den. loddegessii 










Sarcolabiopsis tenella










Den. pieridii










Eria maingaya










Cleistoma discolor










Bulbo. purpurascens 










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## Totenkampf (Jun 25, 2012)

nice thread, i have only done som eof the more common jewel orchids so this is good info. i have had the neo. 'fireball' family of broms get pretty big at 8 inches across. it takes a while though and you can always transplant them once they are too large.


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## Krenshaw22 (Apr 21, 2011)

Just aheads up, hinges are dry handle is drying and the wood and slate is being boiled as we speak.

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## Krenshaw22 (Apr 21, 2011)

Totenkampf said:


> nice thread, i have only done som eof the more common jewel orchids so this is good info. i have had the neo. 'fireball' family of broms get pretty big at 8 inches across. it takes a while though and you can always transplant them once they are too large.


Thank you, its my first time with orchids in a viv. My 3 must be well behaved because they been with me a year and haven't got too large. 

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## Spaff (Jan 8, 2011)

After seeing the pictures, all of those aside from the Den. loddigesii because of its culture requirements should do pretty well at least until they get bigger. I thought your second plant was Den. pierardii, but it's not. Vegetatively, it looks similar to Den. anceps or distichum, but it's impossible to ID without a flower. Definitely looks like a species from the section Aporum though.


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## Groundhog (Dec 17, 2006)

Spaff said:


> After seeing the pictures, all of those aside from the Den. loddigesii because of its culture requirements should do pretty well at least until they get bigger. I thought your second plant was Den. pierardii, but it's not. Vegetatively, it looks similar to Den. anceps or distichum, but it's impossible to ID without a flower. Definitely looks like a species from the section Aporum though.


Hey Spaff, what is the deal with _Den loddigesii_? I thought it to be a pretty sturdy plant, no?


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## Krenshaw22 (Apr 21, 2011)

Spaff said:


> After seeing the pictures, all of those aside from the Den. loddigesii because of its culture requirements should do pretty well at least until they get bigger. I thought your second plant was Den. pierardii, but it's not. Vegetatively, it looks similar to Den. anceps or distichum, but it's impossible to ID without a flower. Definitely looks like a species from the section Aporum though.


So its a go for all but den. loddigesii. Ok ill be sure to keep it out. Might try small piece away from the moisture at the top. Got lots of it. 

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## Krenshaw22 (Apr 21, 2011)

Groundhog said:


> Hey Spaff, what is the deal with _Den loddigesii_? I thought it to be a pretty sturdy plant, no?


He stated it needed a winter dormancy

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## Spaff (Jan 8, 2011)

Groundhog said:


> Hey Spaff, what is the deal with _Den loddigesii_? I thought it to be a pretty sturdy plant, no?


Yeah, I've found it to grow and bloom best when given an almost totally dry and cooler winter. A friend of mine who owns a small orchid nursery gave me a 2" pot of it one time. The plant was beautiful and huge (~8" diameter). I tried to grow it like all my other orchids and it continually declined without ever blooming. I spoke to a very veteran grower last year, after seeing him specimen in full bloom, and he told me to give it absolutely no water in winter. 

It would probably do ok in a viv for a while, but I don't see it doing well long term.


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## Krenshaw22 (Apr 21, 2011)

Ok ill keep it out may do alil experiment on growth patterns with it. For example grow a piece in my viv all summer and remove it in the winter and do no water thing and place it back in the spring and see about its growth and bloom. For the other just leave it mounted and in my room or other part of the house. See how it does.

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## Spaff (Jan 8, 2011)

If you have a large plant, you may just want to keep a small piece in the viv all the time. You don't have anything to lose. One thing that's cool about this species is that it keikis very easily. Soon you'll have tons of baby plants all over the old canes. 

For the part that you keep out of the viv, water daily in the spring and summer, start to cut down in the fall and then very little if any in winter. This one likes relatively high light, so a shaded west or south window would be great.


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## Krenshaw22 (Apr 21, 2011)

Spaff said:


> If you have a large plant, you may just want to keep a small piece in the viv all the time. You don't have anything to lose. One thing that's cool about this species is that it keikis very easily. Soon you'll have tons of baby plants all over the old canes.
> 
> For the part that you keep out of the viv, water daily in the spring and summer, start to cut down in the fall and then very little if any in winter. This one likes relatively high light, so a shaded west or south window would be great.


Got like 3 individual plants. And it looks like it'll spread real easy and is easily propagated. But I will certainly try different things with this plant.

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## Mantellaprince20 (Aug 25, 2004)

I've been growing dendrobium loddigessii for the past 2 years in a viv. It actually does really well. I have planted it though at the very top of the tank along a small branch with no moss or anything, that way when I mist the viv, it dries out almost immediately. I did get a couple flowers off of it last winter, but the plant was still pretty immature. If you keep it up higher and drier under good lighting (6" or so under 2 bulb HO T5) then it does pretty good. A recent section that I put in a new viv has already attached to his little branch and he has only been going in their for about 2 months. So, it is definitely a possibility in a viv, it just has to be kept drier......


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## Krenshaw22 (Apr 21, 2011)

I'm gonna do an experiment on this plant see what really works I need too start siliconing cocofiber to this thing but I forgot I had a shortage so I gotta go get some more. Oh if anyone wants to add other miniatures to the list are more thank welcome to keep the number of threads down and the information will be all here.

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## Krenshaw22 (Apr 21, 2011)

Oh one more ? Will these guys be ok in pots and get misted daily and place in indirect sunlight for a few hours q day be ok until I get the tank finished?

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